THE CORONATION.

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume XLVI, Issue XLVI, 22 June 1911, Page 3

THE CORONATION.

(Ccntimied from p:ig3 2.)

peal. They |Hlt in a claim for .imongr things, ''Six ells of cloth. Ten yards of scarlet. Six yards of Sarcenet. Two pieces of double worsted.'' These for the Dean. And the third part of •i Tun of Wine and Fish according to the Bounty of His Royal Majesty 'o r the Dean and Chapter's Repast. ■Scarlet cloth and crimson velvet, sups of gold and silver'and all manner of perquisites are claimed by those holding office. A tangle of history begins to unwind slowly; the Garter of Edward the Third, the white satin trunk hose of the Elizabethans, the atrophied remains of hoods, of insignia; mantles swollen or diminished, crowns and coronets of shapes set down hard and fast by rule, colours unalterable, costumes laid down by law. No. thing is forgotten. The strangest mixture of the ages_ In this will-be found eehoc s of old sumptuary laws. as for example: Edward 111., 13G3. Furs of ermine and lettice and embellishments of pearls, excepting for a head-dress, were forbidden to all but Royalty, or nobles possessing over one thousand pounds a year. To-day the length of every train, the arrangement of the ermine, the forbidding of pearls in coronets will be found in the orders for the Coronation. Youths, for example. must wear a costume of black velvet with knickerbockers, black silk stockings, shoes with steel buckles, and a glengarry car) of black velvet. For the King many things must be prepared. 'The crown must be altered, the mantle and Supetunica -fitted, sceptres, swords, girdles, spurs, must all be got in readiness. ARRIVAL OF THE KING. The King arrives. He must wear a kirtle or surcoat, of crimson velvet with a large mantle and hood of the same, furred with ermine and bor. dered with rich gold lace. This is worn over the white underdress, and white slockings of the G-arter Robes. On hi s head lie wears the Cap of State of puipie velvet turned up with ermine. The mantle, of huge proportions, is held up by a number of pages who wore, on the last occasion, o modified Georgian coat with big cuffs, ruffles at the wrist, lace cravats, shoulder knots, swords, and knee-breeches. From the moment of the King's entrance to his exit the solemn process of dressing and undressing him in -jarments symbolical of various yir ues on. After he has been Recognised as King and Anointed, the Cap of State, the Mantle and the Surcoat are re moved. For this anointing an Ampulla vand a Spoon for thrToil, of gold have been provided, as has also a Pall of cloth of gold embroidered with eagles and held over the King's? head by four silver supports, thesp being held by four Knights of iho Garter in their robes. After this anointing the Pall i s delivered back to the Lord Chamberlain, and is by him redelivered to the Groom of th« Robes

The robes worn br 7no Knights of the Garter are of particular interest. Originally t'.h> full dress consisted of 0 tunic, a mantle and a eapuchon of blue woollen cloth, all these powdered with gaiters in gold, the mantle having one larger than the rest to enclose a .shield with the cross- of St. George. This larger garter and shield still remain. Tn the time of Richard 11. the garter colour was ia ■urn violet, white, and I>iuc. In Henry the Fifth's reign the colour changed from white to scarlet, and hack to white Tn Henry tile Sixth's reign the number of carters on the •nantla showed the degree of the :.'ink of the wearer, tll s t as the er•riine spot s show it to-day on the fur >f the peers' hoods. It. was an hun_ 1 red-and-t weni y gaiters for a duke, and hundred-aiiil-ien for a marquis, ninetv for an e:irl, and sixty for a knight bachelor. Tn this reign (he maf'Tial was changed from cloth to vel-.-■t lined with satin. Henry Seventh •l'olislied Ihi- powdering of garters, •ha ngo 1 1 the colour to purple and ad- '.'•.] the collar. In, the reign of IT-;]>-y the High Ih tie- h;il;ii wa« made '.'•• '.'lie i'.-lr-llinn ->f the time Mild a ll.it

-np added; the hood remained, but •he ehapcron wn« worn hung over the -;-! it shoulder and was called t lie hum"'Ti I°. Til;- eo'our clianged to crim--011. Also 1 he iewel called theTjesser H-'orge was added l<> I he collar, or .•I'ain, and was susnondod on the ,'o:"'ist by a chain or riband of black. \t f!ie present dav the full dress of 1 V"- Garter rnn<-- : sts in I he manfle, hncd, collar and turcoat, and trunk.-

o? white aud white hose, shoos" find rosettes till of gold-spangled gymp, with the collar tied back by big shoulder-rosettes of ribbon, and the garter round the right ley under the knee. The mantle is without a collar and is drawn together at the neck by long cordons of bine silk (Muling m biff tassels of mixed blue silk and {jold thread. OTHEft ORUKUS. The Mlntles of other Orders are. for the Thistle, rich preen velvet uned with white. For |he Order of the Bath. itch crimson satin. The Order of St. Patrick, sky-blue satim St. Michael and St. ■Ueorge, Saxon.blue satin. The King, having been Anointod.seats himself in King Edward's •J".'flir. then, after the Knights of the Garter h.">*.'«? resume;! their seats, he again rises and is invested willt t Vrn garments of icat signiflcanee. the t'olobiuni Kinrior-.ls, and fho :<'iipertiiniea The first vestment iS in shape like a sleeveles? monky frock, or an alb, and is made of fine white linen with an edging of lace round the border, and a flounce of lace, nine inches deep, at the bottom. This vestment is the second of a priest's Mass vestments, the first being the Amice, which Kings do not wear.

The Sypevtuiiica is of tin? nature of a priest's Dalmatic and the privilege of wearing it Was irfflntod to Abbots, and to Kings and Emperors. It is made of cloth of gold and is woven with the sio-ns of the Imperial Eagle, the Palm.Branch. the Rose. the Shamrock and Thistle. Th e Rose is for England. England's flower dating far beyond the Tudor dtose a s it js represented, and beyond the Yorkist and Lancastrian rose, and having more afiiiiit.v with the golden rose Edward, t'he First wore in his helmet. The Shamrock is that plant used by St. Patrick to -illustrate the levson 0 f the Trinitv to his followers. And the Thistle is a reminder of the salvation of the Scots (,so legend sa\-s) from the ■Panes, who. walking barefoot to surpise the enemv, trod on fhe spikes of Scottish thistles and. crying out. were betrayed.

After these have been put on. the l«'o spurs are taken from the Altar by the Sub.Dean, who hands them to tlie Lord Great Chamberlain, who, kneeling tlcnvn, touches the King's heels with them.

Then the Sword of .State is girt about the King after he has received it into hi s right hand. This sword is in a purple velvet scabbard. Afiet he has been g-ut with it and has been fxhorted to do justice with it, he rises and is im girded, and the nobleman who first rtrepived it redeems it from Ihe Altar, where it has been placed, for the sum of one hundred shillings, and Ihen- carries it bare during the rest of the ceremony. THE IMPKRIA LMANTLE. The King is then Invested with the Armilla or Stole, of cloth of gold suitably embroidered, and then with the imperial Mantle, or Pall of Cloth 0 f GoJd delivered by the Master of the Robes, the Loid Great Chamberlain fastening the clasps of the Morse that buckles it. Thi s Mantle is of great length and beauty and is significant, as are all mantles from Eli. jah's mantles onwards to St. Martin, who divided his mantle out of charity. The mantle completes the ecclesiastical portion of the King's vestments, being au exaggerated form of the cope or chasuble worn by otliciating priests, and'remaining ■in effigy on the tom'Ds of some kings, notably on the tomb of Richard I. ■After this the King again seats himself, and deceives the Orb into his right hand, this Orb being a symbol of the world over which he rules, and the Cross to s bow that his kingdom is Christian.

t.he Archbishop places the .Ruby King On the fourth linger of the hand. It is a Table .Ruby, having the Cross of St. George ciit upon it}, and i s the Ens;?)! of Kingly Dignity, Then the two great Sceptres are given t 0 the King after he ha s put on the G-love presented to him. by the Lord of the Manor of Worksop. The one is the Sceptre with the Cross, and the other the ■Seep:re with the Dove. The first into his right hand, supported by the Lord of the Manor of Worksop,- this being the Kingly Sceptre, and the other being the Bod of Equity and Mercy. At last, fully equipped, the King is crowned with St. Edward's down of pure gold encrusted with jewels. There are about 300 diamonds in the crown, and about 300 pearls besides a quantity of other precious stones. The great South Afiican diamond, the Cullinan, which was cut into two parts, is now, the one part, called the Star of. Africa, in the King's Sceptre, the lesser part being set into the crown beneath the Black Prince Ruby, a stone said to have been worn in the 'Black Prince's helmet at 'Creey and Toictiers. There is, moreover, the huge oblong sapphire placed in the crown in IS2O by the Prince Regent. Also the two pearshaped pearls- which were worn as oar-rings by Queen Elizabeth on her coronation in ]SSS, and were added to the Crown by King Edward's spe. cial order. AFTER THE CORONATION. After the Coronation, in the language of the Rubric, "the people with loud and repeated shouts, cry. 'God save the King;' and immediately the Peers put on their Coronets; and the Kings of Arm s their Crowns; the trumpets sounding, the. drums- beating, the great guns of the Tower and the guns iu the Park beingshot off: '' When the acclamation ceases the Archbishop pronounces the Exhortation and then presents the Bible to the King, .saying, '•■ Our Gracious King, we present you with this 'Book, the most valuable thing that this world affords. Here is Wisdom. This is the ißoyal Law. These are the lively Oracles of God," 'The Archbishop now pronounces the Benediction and the King goes into the Theatre, where are all the Great OfTi ers of State, the two Bish. ops. his Supporters, the! Noblemen carrying the swords, the Sword of State, the Pointed Sworfl of Spiritual .lust ice. the Pointed Sword of Temporal .hist ice. and the Curtaun, • lie blunt-ended Sword of .Mercy.

The King being then enthroned find the Kxhortat ion beginning, "Stand firm and hold fast."' having been said. I lie King delivers I he.Sceptre with the Cross !111, l I'll'' Sceptre with the JJo\n in those noblemen who bear them, and PM.rivi; 1 he Homage, first of the Bishops, after which tlie A'rchbishon kisses him on the left check. After which come those of the Blood Koval to do the same, and after that, the Senior of each decree do likewise, the Senior of Ihe Dukes, of the Marquesses, the 'Karls # . < lie Viscounts, and I lje Barons. Then the Princesses pay Homage and after lliem Ihe Peeresses.

/Lttei" the Homage is a second Ac.

clamation. Thi s is .followed by the Anointing, Crowning and Enthroning of the Queen, Next in order do the King iind Quo on receive the Sacrament, having taken off (heir crown?. Before this, as they kneel, the King makes his of"-, feriug'of a Pal I or Altar Cloth of <cii vards- in length offered in a foil, and'an ingot of gold of a pound weight. Then the Queen makes her'offoriii.r of a Pall, and a Mark weight of gold in like manner as tho King. The service being concluded. His Majesty is disrobed of his Royal linj penal Mantle, and i s arrayed in his i Soval Robe of purple velvet and receives his Crown 0 f State, and the Queen likewise. After which they pass to the "Wiost Boor of the Abbey, Ihcir Majesties wearing their crowns, the King bearing in his right hands the Sceptre with the Cross, and in his left the Orb. tho Queen bearing in her right hand her Sceptre with the Cross", and in her left the Ivor.y Rod with the Dove. A GLORIOUS SPECTACLE. A glowing, glorious and moving spectacle which words cannot con- \ ey. The blaze and sparkle of co. roirets. The huge standards of Eng. land, Ireland, and Scotland, and tho Standaid of the Union; the Embroidered Cushions for the Crowns and Rings; the Knights of the Orders in full dress; the Heralds with their Tabards and their fantastic titles. Unicorn Pursuivant, Portcullis and Rouge Dragon Pursuivants, and the Kings of Arms, Garter, ! Ly on, Clareneeux, Ulster, and Norroy, a host of quaint and curious names and olliees, all in the richest of colours moving, like a bed of heraldic flowers, catching rare lights from the Abbey windows; the diamonds in the King's crown blazing, the great noy like an eye of fire. Xor is this all. No detail but is carefully arranged as, for example, this list of what the Peer s and Peeresses must wear whereby their rank is shown. THE PEERS. For ail: A mantle of crimson velvet edged with miniver. The cape faired with miniver pure, and powdered with bars or rows of ermine (i.e., nanow pieces of black fur) acc.ordir.g to their degree. The use of this fur, miniver, or vair, for persons of high degree, is of very ancient origin, dating from the time in the Middle Ages when persons of all ranks wore hoods of some kind of skins. One could tell in the 34th century who were knights or nobles at a tournament by the miniver of thenhoods. iSabio, ermine, vair and gris were reserved for the use nf the kings and nobics; other ranks wore badger and eat skins. The cape worn to.day on the Peers' mantle is the remains of this custom. Barons wear two rows of ermine. Viscounts wear two rows and ahaif. Earls wear three rows. Marquesses wear three rows and ahalf. Dukes wear four rows. These Kobe-s are worn over full Court dress, Uniform or Regimentals. Their Coronets are to be of silver gilt; the 'Caps of crimson velvet turned up with ermine, with a gold tasesl on the top; and no jewels or pre. cious stones are to be set or used in the coronets, or counterfeit pearls instead of silver balls. The Cap of crimson velvet and fur r.nce worn by peers in Parliament is the sign of their right to the peerage, tho metal crowns showing the degree i f the wearer—fhu>: A Baron's Coronet has on the rim six silver balls set. at equal distances. A Viscount's Coronet has sixteen silver balls An Earl's Coronet has -eight silver bally raised on points, with gold strawberry leaves between the points. A Marquess's Coronet has four gold strawberry-leaves, and four silver balls alternately. Tho silver balls a little raised on points above tho i i m. A Duke's Coronet has eight gold strawberry leaves Till-: PEERESSi«:s. For all: A mantle of crimson velvet, with a cape furred with miniver pure, and powdered with rows of ermine. For a Baroness: The mantle to be edged round with miniver pure two inches in breadth, and the train to be three feet on the ground. The cape to have two rows of ermine. Coronet according to rank For a Viscountess: The edge of the mantle as before; the train to be a yard and a quarter "n The ground For n Countess: The edging of fur to be three inches in bread!n, and the train a yard and a hall'. I'm- a Marchioness: Tho edging in lie four iiH'hes' in breadth, and Iho (rain a vard and \ hreeqnart or;-. For a Dliclil-ss: The i-dging to be AUSTRALIAN MEAT EATERS. Australians nrcsucll heavy meal, ontors • hat- wo arc, Fa-s-il- becoming a nation of dyspeptics, and it 'is telling «" fho genera! health or tho country. Constipation, i.s tho forerunner of (his complaint, a.iul if yon have any signs of it ,-oii should no't lieMfate lo vol a box of Chamberlain's Tablets at, one.e. T!'"y ; are a positive- cure lor tliio complaint.* *■

five inches broad, and the train two vards on the ground. Their dress consists of a Kirtie of crimson velvet bordered all rousd, with a narrow edging of miniver scalloped in front, plain "otherwise. The Kirtlo opens fiom the waist and widens gradmlly down to the ground. It may also be gathered back in three festoons each tied back with a bow of tinsel.

The sleeves should be about nine inches long, and have, two narrow rows of miniver, below which are live lappets va'ryiujr in length from the inner one of one inch, to the outer of three inches, each edged with miniver. iWhite lace sleeves may be worn below these lappcls. The Petticoat should be of white with lace, embroidery or brocade in accordance with the taste of the Peeresses The brocade may be of gold or silver, and not of any colour. Jewel s may be. worn round the neck, on the bodice and on the petticoat It will be seen from this how .careful and minute is every detail The Lord Gieat Chamberlain claims to bring to His Majesty on the day of his Coronation, his shirt, stockings and drawers, and thai with the Lord Chamberlain _of the llou-ehold he may drcs s His Majesty in all hi s apparel on that day. And as his fees he claims 40 yards of crimson velvet for his robes.' looether with the bed wherein the King lies the night previous to the Coronation, with all the variances anu curtains thereof, and all the cushions and clothes within the chamber together with the furniture of the same, and also the nightrobe of the King wherein His Majesty is vested the night previous to his Coronation; and likewise to serve His Majesty with water on that day, and have the basins and towels and the cup of assay for his.fee These, with other ancient remembrances, such as the uniform of the Yeomen of the Guard, the cuirasses of the Household Cavalry first worn at the Conoration of George IV., the tabards and oakleaf crowns of t'he heralds, the gorgeous robes of the Indian princes, the foreign uniforms, the mantles of the Orders, the ancient robes of Mayors and Aldermen, and the City Liveries, make a picture never equalled except upon these occasions Clothes for one day in cur grey and black world are triumphant; for one day the tailor reigns supreme and all the old glories of' his erat't come forth into the light. Weavers, embroiderers, jewellers,., all those who colour tho tapestry with pleasant splendour, come forth for this one day like butterflies with the first sun Coachmen and footmen stretch back a hand into the 3 Bth century and feel for the powder-box. and- the full-skirted coat, and the cocked hat and/ the big cane. And above all the wealth and feast of colour the Abbey rises grey and beautiful, and with the s'houts of the people, the great guns of the tower and those in the Park boom the £a-G-OD SAVE THE KING