Nelson: SIXTY YEARS OF HISTORY.

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume XXXV, Issue 205, 7 September 1901, Page 1 (Supplement)

Nelson: SIXTY YEARS OF HISTORY.

THE STORY OF SETTLEMENT. ■A MODERN GARDEN CITY. SEDUCTIVE CLIMATE AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY/ CYCLING, DRIVING, YACHTING, FISHING. INDUSTRIAL ;.ASD COMMERCIAL DEVEIipENTS. ." ART AND CULTURE. PEN SKETCHES OF REPRESENTATIVE y .. BUSINESS HOUSES."

By popular report of tourists and other; .visiters Nelson is the most Chaining town in' Hew Zealand. It ma^ not be so busy ah industrial cenjtejß>«- some -others, but insur'..js^<ti^itg^ with the more beautiYftij. 1 cttid ; . elc^tmjg conditions of alone. isn^iliition: of. Chrisfcchurch,.but i mpre pl<3a£iing work. jformejis like a gaWkish jgirl— a traaisition state, She is too small to provide the distractions of a ■i great city, and too large for the altogether satisfying quietude of a town* : Ne^n resembles a peaceful cathedral c^^liiiftt old country from which Vmoflfc ls ite inhabitants come. It ,i|itf»^ church" spire^, its vt eolleges, art "g^jl|fry, ; museum, libraries, school of musfiv parks, and: botanical gardens. V It also has^W-World-like farms, hem X'i^|s^dotCliarfs-;"its sequestered y^tpitj, wiriks, English birds and quiet troi&i streams* bedge rows,t hips and hiws, blrokbernes, 'avenues of poplar, and cottages set in flioWef gardens. A passing stranger- standing on a bill above the town, happily conapared the scene to a huge .garden divided by streets. As Wellington, Taranaki, and, to a lesser extent, Dunedin and Christchurch, Nelson is a child of Edward Gibbon Wakefield's fertile brain. New Zealand "is, a practical expression of "that" dreamy political economists' but &pugh in one place and another statue, haw been erected to lesser men the grave of Wakefield in Wellington has no fitting memorial. Perhaps it is thought that the prosperous colony itself, and the five centites: mentioned, are monuments enough' ;lfeui-£girely gratitude alone would suggest i> more personal symbol. The people of Nelson, whose lot has been cast ia pleasant places as an outcome of the great coloniser's entfiiisiasm, . have been so public spirited in other Ways that it may be j gug^t«4^»t ti-ey should further j jenna^i^^tteactions pf the centre fo eating on" ihe 2ig Zag, o*srlo&ri^the town, or other convenient site, such ;a monument, especially on the eve pf the sixtieth anniversary of the foundation. The Foundation BwiD^bs, Afte< Wellington (*B4Q) **»* New Plymouth TWo^^ established by the bisbopcai New %Msm& Company* it was decided in -.JWl fe&nn a third * settlements • The designation of Nelson was! chosen in order to perpetuate in the colony the nances ot the two^reat defenders of the nation by land and sea during the troublous, penbd still green in memory. Wakefield's principles were again i adopted ef preserving ft -harmonious j bianco -between land, capital, and tebpj.* With the energy Almost unique in early colonisation which chai»eMidfc*l * he homeoperatipns 6i && Comm* Jfte arrangements were sppnf expiated, »# by 2nd " MaY, iß4l> threeTvesgels, th£ £rrow, Watch, left &ay^send i'ith surveyors, laborers, 1^ ■ Before leaving port .'ftV cJgߧyman preached to the p&iy^|poi(» the text '" And whoish^thatrwiliharm you, if ye, be f^<w^s of that which is good," : ?r?risish in- i ' 4__^>?l^^rbonbr ? Britißklaws'' «^^A#ny- • l^ben to a :--Jj3^'^4Si : '- : the pioneers lAm^oatet »gW4 Cs^tara Arthur : lYa^dd, feotber &i the founder, *blK M£i^^ ro^ jb»ttN>*hd nbfiig. in Pb^ge wr r . . . jbesm^^ '^fe -|Gomp«ny , It ww yj'titiaj^ sufficient numJ^ri]i^^gi»nts WP-ld be forth- .;■ ciwaapg? -ZM iil cofery at^eUSng^B- land WM jpldij^^id . poi j^t belong^o; the> ve^|a^i'tbat fw^ii^ jp^^^» "&s^Wipreciee; ioee^if Aoi whic;h^ was : not. even diQ^eni^^bis fiolicy< Welling., ; ton afeo^bp^ Asmtotek W not a little com^ V-vatei^&l^^^P** jmuriStfW^ om^» Jmborban sec- * z^ti^&m, y&-$ ft WHfl section ot IStt aM, .priority (4 choice Js^^termi^ -^cording y^f^^;^^Aa^y~«^ the 7 sum—/ "; t^Y^S_BS?©!P^^^i*^ -oW».ai»e4 Was. to be *° emigration, '^ : : iWkWmmi^^ * n wpsmg the '? ZW^^^^^o^ ithft ■■£&^&XB^ at the (fotj&£ji^^ Oi Z^^o^^i^^m improvepientJ^SlC^wft^ foundiand Ai^^^o^mmii(i eny&ii&^^ a tileae proPt^ gr^ 8 sey 6l^ «xcetleht pSM^es**^ could phly bjave z l^a of YTj*Sg£^ this z^wm^ * 2S^ Mtuanng^A proposalfor

— 1 colonisation which eventually bore | fruit in the establishment of the Otago Colony, but while this grant to education was as liberal as in the Scottish* scheme that to religious bodies had the advantage of being non-sectarian. • Wakefield was weak in administration, buthis principles were admirable, and he was mot to blame for the native-land-grabbingfpropensities of his brother, Colonel Wakefield, who was at the _iead of the Company's affairs in New Zealand. Some .442 allotments were soon sold, and after the lapse of a few months to allow the survey party to get tp work, several emigrant vessels left England. In the meanwhile Captainj Wakefield and his staff had arrived in New Zealand, reaching Wellington in September, 1841. The question of the site had first to be decided, and here some bickering arose. The relations between the Company's officers j and Captain Hobson, the earnest, erratic, somewhat altruistic, but much misunderstood Lieut-Governor, were not happy, especial chagrin being felt by Colonel D Wakefield and his party that i the administration had not chosen Wellington instead of Auckland as the capital. Colonel Wakefield desired that the fertile land near Banks Peninsula or Port Cooper should be. occupied by the Nelson people. Hobson wished to strengthen his position in the north by obtaining near Auckland so substantial an increase of population as - the new arrivals would provide. Wakefield emphatically refused to send them to the north, and Hobson fprbad them to settle on the east coast of the South Island. Thus three idle Weeks^Were spent, and eventually, after thej manner of " Hobson 's choice,' * Colonel Wakefield advised his brother to proceed to the neighbourhood of Blind Bay, south of Cook Strait. Some time in October the party -crossed the water Separating the two islands, passing the historical Queen Charlotte Sound where Captain (look's vessels were received so tragically, and approaching that locality— Massacre Bay (Golden Bay) —where ih 1642 Tasman is said to have anchored anti had three of his men kitted by the Maoris. After calling qu the Maori chief at_Kapiti, the notorious Te Rauparaha, they hove to -io the Astrolabe Roads named by the French. The vicinity was examined, but did not satisfy Captain Wakefield. Then Mr F. G. Moore and Mr J. S. Cox, pilots, while exploring in a small boat, discovered Nelson Harbour, and there in the first week of November the three vessels were brought to anchor. Two days were spent by Wakefield, accompanied by Messrs Tuckett, Stephens, andHeaphy, all well-known in early history, in inspecting the hills and valleys. The lsnd pleased Ihem, and as they considered the harbour to be a fair one, they decided that here should be future home of the early expected emigrants. A conference was held with the Maoris, and, not without opposition, the surveyors and labourers Were allowed to mark out a site for the town. Missionaries had been to the y neighbourhood before, and on the first Sunday fhe expedition were surprised to observe some p£the Wakapuaka Maoris assemble on the hill and hold a religious service. Tents and whares were erected by the white people, and the skete- : tpn of Nelson town was planned and laid put among the bush, flax, fern, and toi toi which covered the valley, boats came over from Wellington with sheep, pigs, and other provisions, and in one was John Orr, yfhg pitched a tent and sold spirits and wet, Pn Christmas Day, 1841, there .wad much {easting, about a hundred Maori men, women, and children being the guests at dinner ot the white men on board the vessels. After dinner all landed, and tie Maoris danced a haka. Again on New. Year's Day holiday was k|pt, a r cricket match was played, and there were "boat and canoe races, fencing, cutlass practice, musket drill, foot races, and dancing toltbe rnusicof fife.' fiddle, and dram." Thus did the pipneers preserve their most chdfished traditipns— an inn, a holiday, a cricket match, and so on. ; The emigrant vessels which had left the OW Country some time before were now nearing New Zealand. Tbe '*< Fifeshire" was the first to arrive, Qn 19th Januarys 1842, she reached Wellington, and nine days l#t§r left fojr Nelson, coining alongside iihe Boulder Bank on the morning of feebwiary Ist, ihe date from which the 'foundation of the settlement is rjßCJtpned, and which during the past MtpmpeyWXß the people have ap- ! pr^pr^t|B% mjide a #ay of pleasure. A bbtfji^ ;^r«p^out to meet the ship, aaillYW^^ its passengers.: Jhen the settlers came ashore, li^^tJp^^aßmders Tbeing the first

to step on land. Years later Mr Saunders became Superintendent of the Province, and then a member of the House of Repressntatives, his name being further perpetuated by his writing an excellent history of the Colony. Mosf of the passengers were accommodated in the Company's depot on Church Hill. The voyage out was saddened by the death of seventeen people, their burial at sea giving a melancholy tone to the spirits of the survivors who at best were filled with anxiety after leaving their old homes for a comparatively unknown land. The rock at the entrance to the harbour had vengeance on the first passenger vessel, for when she was leaving on February 27th the Fifeshire was wrecked on that curious projection, an old sketch showing her lying broadside on. During February several other vessels arrived with their freight of colonists, the Lloyds, Lord Auckland, and the Mary Anne. Two more anchored in the harbour in March, four in April, and two in May, while between November, 1841, and July 9, 1842, some sixty-seven craft visited Nelson. The Fifeshire was not alone in her tale- of death, sixty-five people dying on the voyage out of the Lloyds, which brought the wives and families of the expeditionary officers and men. Blame was imputed to the Captain, the Surgeon, and others. Notes of Progress. Although the survey party had been despatched some months before the land purchasers and their families, the first settlers were in little better plight than most other original bands in those days. For various reasons sufficient preparation had not been made for them, and after the Fifeshire people had been provided for there was scant room for other new-comers. For some days they had to camp as best they could, a few sticks having a blanket stretched over them, with a bed of thick dry fern, being the common sleeping apartment. But this was not the worst feature. After taking possession of their town lots many of the farmers waited idly , for their rural sections. Delay after j delay took place, and in one or two instances two years intervened before the colonist who had paid for his land in the Old Country could get upon it. He was compelled to live on his means, and to waste valuable time. That complaints were sometimes acrimonious cannot be wondered at. So far as the town was concerned apparently better conditions prevailed. This secluded locality. quickly changed its appearance, although the erection of substantial buildings was a tedious undertaking. All the timber had to be conveyed on men's backs from the Wood across the Maitai stream, and hence the tent and whare stage was prolonged. The pioneer houses were commonly constructed of wooden frames with walls of fern, and later of mud, and roofs of toi toi. It was not until April 11th that the first distribution of town lots took place. Meanwhile, the street nomenclature had been deter- ! mined on by a Committee appointed at a public meeting, its members j being Captains "Wakefield and. England, and Messrs Greaves, Graham, Jenkins, MacShane, Otterson, Patchett, Richardson, Sclanders, Stevens, Thompson. Tuckett, Tytler, Valle, and Young. Notwithstanding all obstacles* the town gradually assumed definite shape, and,, as an example of energy and persistency under discouraging conditions, fche advance made during the next few months was laudable. By September 250 houses had been erected, and 50 more were in course of erection, while there were 280 temporary whares or huts. This progress is partly explained by the number of people present. Within seven montlia of the arrival of the Fifeshire there were estimated to be 2000 persons in the settlement. There was a newspaper, a Post Oflice, a Court, a Temperance Association, a Benefit Society, and a Literary and Scientific Institute. Ploughs had been set to work at the Waimea by August, and on the first anniversary of the settlement a Ploughing Match, an Agricultural Show, and a Regatta were held. As will be seen in other columns businesses were established in 1842 which are still in existence. The want of land gave a useful stimulus to exploration, for before the settlement was a year old trips I were made some distance away, to the Wairau Valley, to Motupipi, and Tasman' s Massacre Bay. The colour of gold was found, while several tons of coal were obtained at Motupipi. In following years great courage was shown by several men in penetrating the mountainous country inland, and the journeys of Mr Thomas Brunner, Government Surveyor in 1846-8, rank high in exploring records, as well for his tenacity of purpose, even in the face of starvation, as for his splendid endurance and fearlessness amid .dispiriting geographical difficulties. Brunner for a time had as cpmpanions Messrs Fox and Heaphy (afterwards Major Heaphy, V.C.). He forced his way over the rough mountains' and swollen torrents between here and the West Coast, and then went as far south as Milford Haven. Long after all hope of his being still alive was relinquished after an absence of sixteen months, he returned to Nelson, the shadow of theman who had started out. Brunner was the forerunner j of a number of brave explorers and surveyors "who proceeded from Nelson and, in suffering and hunger, learnt all there was to know by such means of the country on every side, one surveyor living for several months on nothing but a species of fern and other native vegetables, or what limited game he could prodire. Besides those mentioned were Messrs. Webb, F< A. Weld, Traverg, Mackay (senior and junior), Bpchfort, Burnett, and Dr. Hochstetter. These men paved the way for pastoralists and agriculturists, and, on the West Coast, for the gold diggers. The large population obtained within a few months of the foundation W&s not altogether a good thing. There were too many people for the land open to them, and hence men who intended to farm became labourers on the roads for the Company. The town was developed at the expense of rural I

progress, and the amount of land cleared and broken was not commensurate with the qnantity of labour in the district. Town life was pleasant enough ; there- were dances, parties, concerts, regattas, schools, etc., but farmers were still waiting to get on their sections. So a couple of years passed, and round about eventually appeared a ( few promising little farms. Then ( circumstances arose which almost forced the people into farming, and j jnto making Nelson essentially j an agricultural community. In 1844 the New Zealand Company was in financial straits, and public j works were stopped. About nine 1 tenths of the wage-earning population were thrown out of employment. Such a condition could only engender universal distress, the merchants and tradesmen suffering with the poorer , classes. The original hopes received ' a rude shock. Of the poorer classes some lived on potatoes for weeks, even plucking up the seed potatoes that had been planted ; some gathered sou-thistles and boiled them ; some made clothe 3 out of old corn sacks. For several months local affairs were at an acute stage, but the resiliance of the stock asserted itself. Like all times of necessity among strong people this stress was productive of good, and it was the beginning of important developments in the settlement. Deprived of employ - ment, many of the working classes " squatted " on the land, cultivating unsold or unleased areas, and frequently paying no fee. Thus the agricultural community was increased, and an export trade was established in 1846 which has continued almost without intermission throughout succeeding years. By 1845-6 the extension of settlement had become considerable and much of that land which has since yielded so lucratively was brought under cultivation. For thfe next few years there was steady progress, and the Marlborough country began to yield its share of wealth. And so the foundation was laid, the pioneers buckling to the task of clearing the bush and improving their holdings with admirable fortitude. Disappointment had been the fate of many, especially those who purchased large areas with the idea of becoming extensive producers. They soon found that it paid them better to rent to tenants, the small farmer succeeding where the big fared badly. But a magnificent class had been placed on the soil or was engaged in timber getting, or mining, and just the class which made an excellent nucleus upon which to build a fine community, with sturdy constitutions, and intelligent minds, and liberal views. We cannot further dwell on this period of local history, merely adding a few statistics showing the growth. The population in 1845 reached 3086, of whom 1460 lived in the town, and 1576 in the country. The live stock was represented by 5782 sheep and 918 cattle, while there were 1262 acres of cultivated ground. In 1850 the population of the Nelson settlement, in which were included Wairoa, Waitohi, and Queen Charlotte Sound, was 4870. - The town showed a decrease, 1297, and the country an increase, 2075. An export was being made of barley, malt, flour, peas, potatoes, bacon, beer, wool, timber ; the value of the exports coastwise — chiefly to Wellington — in the years 1847-9 being £14,400. Wool exported'was valued at £5,890 (1849— £2,258), flour at £3,708 ; ale and beer at £2,123, while some 618,000 feet of timber had been sent away. In 1849 the value of the wheat and potato crop was estimated at £26,000, and the total value of the agricultural produce during the first eight years was put down af £121,786. Stock of all kinds in 1849 was valued at nearly I £80,000. ] A Gruesome Stoby. j For some time after the arrival of the surveyors and settlers the feeling between the Europeans and Maoris was amicable enough. There were among the Nelson natives men of a fiercer spirit than usual whose blood had never cooled after the heat of successful conquest, a conquest worthy of old Greek tragedies. Coming from the Waikato they had | fought and defeated and pillaged the \ natives of Taranaki and Port Nicholson, and had even carried their in- 1 vincibility into the South Island, parcelling out the vanquished country among them. One of the three great leaders of this war party was Te Rauparaha, a man of fine stature, undoubted courage, ready resource, and proved intelligence, who now passed his time between the southern part of the North Island and the north of the South Island. Attached to his party was his nephew, Te Rangihaeata, apparently .one of the fiercest and most treacherous of his race, and as cunning as the famous Te Kooti of later fame. Six feet six inches high he was physically a splendid specimen of black manhood. Te Rauparaha from the first seemed suspicious of the white people, and feared that their arrival in. numbers would endanger the existence of his own race. Captain Wakefield, like his brother at Port Nicholson, had some difficulty in coming to terms with the natives for the purchase of land, and there was the same suspicion in the minds of the authorities that he was too precipitate in declaring the Company's ' title to certain areas. It is interesting to observe that for the whole of the Nelson settlement including the Waimeas, Motueka, Takaka, and Aore districts the sum of £980 15s was paid-in goods ; by no means a princely exchange for so lordly a purchase. The goods were made up af blankets, axes, powder, muskets, tobacco, hundreds of pipes, glazed windows, sugar, flour, a cask of wine, and promiscuous unnecessaries. In 1842 Mr. Cotterell explored the Wairau Valley, which Col. Wakefield claimed to have purchased on behalf of the New Zealand Company in 1839. Te Rauparaha denied the title. It is not necessary to enter fully into the details of the claim — they have been frequently published but the title of the Company was at least shadowy. Rauparaha and Rangihaeata during a vicit to Nelson warned Captain Wakefield that they disputed the sale and declared that they would not permit a survey of the land to be niade until Land

Commissioner Spain, appointed by the Auckland Government, came over and settled the dispute. About this time Kuika, Rauparaha's niece and Rangihaeata's sister, was mur- ' dered, an escaped convict named I Cook being charged and acquitted for want of evidence, with committing the crime. The Maoris were convinced of Cook's guilt, and thus entertained a suspicion of British ' justice. This affair is given as a i contributing cause to subsequent I events. On 15th April. 1848, three ' survey parties, numbering 43 men, 1 left Nelson to survey the disputed I land, Captain Wakefield urgently requiring more country to satisfy the demands of English purchasers who were waiting idly, in Nelson. The story of what foUowed is one of the saddest in New Zealand annals, ' and the events, perhaps more than anything else, precipitated the dreadful struggles which afterwards took place in many parts of the North Island. The Surveyors l-eached the Wairau, pitched three separate camps, and proceeded with the survey. On 2nd June Rauparaha and Rangihaeata with about a hundred followers approached the party under Mr. Cotterell, surveyor, and ordered him to leave the plain. They seized and placed his property in boats and burnt down his tents. The other parties, under Mr Parkinson, and Messrs. Barnicoat and Thompson, were also molested, some of Mr. Parkinson's property being stolen and Mr. Barnicoat's men made prisoners, the latter, however, being afterwards released on a promise that they would leave the Wairau. Mr. Cotterell hurriedly returned to Nelson and laid the matter before Captain Wakefield and the Police Magistrate. A warrant was issued for the arrest of Te Rauparaha and Te Rangihaeata for arsqn, and Captain Wakefield with Mr. H. A. Thompson, Police Magistrate, Captain England, Chief-Con-sttfble Malm, Mr. G, R. Richardson, Mr. Cotterell, Mr. James Howard, four constables, and special constables sailed in a Government brig to take the chiefs prisoners. On the way they were met and joined by the men of the survey parties, Captain Wakefield, supported by settlers, believing from past experience that it was only necessary to display firmness to effect his purpose. On Saturday morning, June 17th, Wakefield with about 50 men came upon Te Rauparaha with his followers at his camp on the further bank of an anfordable stream, the Tua Marina. In front of the chief was the river, at the rear thick bush. Captain Wakefield, with Mr. Thompson and a few others crossed the stream in a canoe. Mr. Thompson explained the charge to Te Rauparaha, and asked him to go on board the brig with as many followers as he cared to take. The Chief refused, but offered to answer the charge on the spot and, should he be satisfied with the Magistrate's decision, promised to pay the damage. The Magistrate eventually threatened to use force, whereupon several armed men jumped to their feet to protect their leader, while Puaha, a friendly Chief, with Bible in hand counselled peace. Captain Wakefield and his party, with the consent of the natives, again entered a canoe to proceed to the other bank. While crossing a shot was fired, wounding one of the whites. Then followed a most terrible affray. A volley from the Maoris was answered by a volley from the whites, and firing became general. Wakefield and his companions reached land in safety and seeing that his men were at a disadvantage in the bush, the Captain ordered a retreat to a neighbouring hill where was clearer ground. Wakefield, inured to war, endeavoured to get his men to act together, but fighting was not their forte, and the leader soon ordered firing to cease. A white handerchief was displayed as a signal^ of peace, and eventually Captains Wakefield and England, and Messrs. Thompson, Cotterell, Richardson," Howard, Brooks (interpreter), Cropper, and McGregor surrendered to Te Rauparaha, who shook hands with them. But they were reckoning without the ferocious Te Rangihaeata. After brutally killing the wounded this fiend demanded of Te Rauparaha the lives of the nine prisoners. The Chief refused^until. informed that his daughter, Rangihaeata's wife, had been killed. Then one of the most tragic deeds in any history was committed. The Europeans unacquainted with the Maori language had not understood what Rangihaeata was asking, and were easily separated, and "Te Rangihaeata glided behind each singly, and with a tomahawk brained every man of the prisoners." Among those of the party who escaped were Messrs. Tuckett and Barnicoat, and gaining the brig, they sailed to Wellington and returned some days later with Col, Wakefield and other officials. In the interval the Bey. Ironside, a Wesjeyan missionary, had fearlessly hastened to the spot and, discovering ,17 bodies, proceeded to bury them. In this horrible affray 23 Europeans were killed, the site of the massacre, close to the railway between Blenheim and Picton, now being marked by a monument. Several Europeans hid in the bush until the Maoris left. the district, Te Rauparaha and Rangihaeata going to their islands of Mana and Eapiti. The effect of this massacre was serious to Nelson progress "for some time. A gloom not soon dispersed hung over the settlement whose leading men were dead. Numbers of people, fearing the natives, left the district altogether. Te Rauparaha and Rangihaeata were never punished for their perfidy. The hot headed, undiplomatic Governor Fitzroy, who succeeded Captain Hobson, publicly rebuked the Magistrates who signed the warrant, argued that the natives were within .their rights in burning the tents and removing the property of the Surveyors, and emphatically declined to punish the murderers. His action was bitterly resented here and in Wellington, and a petition for his recall was sent Home. He was superseded by Captain Grey, and the great pro- Consul, then a young and promising administrator, in 1846 finally extinguished the Maori claims to th» Wairau. In 1846 Grey by a clever ruse took Te Rauparaha prisoner in the Port Nicbol'

son district for countenancing disturbances there. The chief local representative of the Company being dead Mr William Fox succeeded ' Captain Wakefield, and after a time he was relieved by Mr Dillon Bell (afterwards Sir Dillon Bell), both gentlemen becoming among the best known New Zealand public men. As for the Maoris, their previous opinion of the invulnerability of the Europeans was weakened, and throughout the colony they acted with more impunity towards the white race. Practically no farther trouble with them was experienced in the Nelson district. Local Govebnment. Nelson had an unusual number of brainy men among her early settlers, and their names are strongly impressed on the political, civic, educational, religious, commercial, fighting, and exploring annals of the colony. Gov. Grey, always with a keen eye for brains and merit, while visiting the settlement in 1848, appointed Mr Alfred Domett Colonial Secretary, Mr William Fox Attorney-General, and the Hon. Constantino Dillon a member of the Executive Council, in Auckland. When the Provincial Council days arrived local politicians often led where other Councils were glad to follow, and much of what has since become the permanent policy of New Zealand was originated here. The condition of the present town with its advanced civilising agencies can be understood from this consideration. Among several important things for which Nelson is thus celebrated only a few need be mentioned. Thus here the eight hours labor a day system was inaugurated in New Zealand — among the surveyors in 1841 — and was adhered to. Then Nelson owned the first steamship in the Colony, established the first college, built the first line of railway, formed the first town waterworks on the gravitation principle, possessed the first purely agricultural district, owned one of the first newspapers, founded the first racing stock (Mr Redwood), and (one of the greatest of all) originated that laudable scheme of free, secular, and public education which has become so pronounced and splendid a feature in the Colony's policy. Such an admirable record, justifies a feeling of pride among local people. In 1853 New Zealand was granted for the first time what may be termed Representative Institutions. Nelson people, as may be imagined, had vigorously advocated such a privilege, and Sir George Grey, although unusually autocratic in all his public acts, was ever ready to listen to the plaints and requests of the communities he governed. To him was largely due thia interesting constitution, by which a central Parliament was brought into existence, and the Colony was subdivided into Provinces, each capable of electing a Provincial Council of its own. For opening upland developing a new country these Councils constituted perhaps the finest system of local Government ever established in Australasia. Over each district, with jurisdiction over all important matters of land and public works policy, men were elected who knew its wants, and who were not vexed with debates on abstract questions of national policy. The members were practically a commercial and industrial board, and it is a question whether the value of the Provincial Councils in developing the various parts of the Colony has ever been sufficiently appreciated. The Nelson Provincial Council originally consisted of fifteen members returned by seven electoral districts—Town of Nelson, Suburban Districts, Waimea East District, Waimea West District, Waimea South District, Motueka and Massacre Bay District, and Wairau District. The first members of tbis body were Messrs Dr Sinclair, Dr Renwick, W. Hugh, Dr Bush, H. Adams, Charles Elliott, Joseph Ward, F. Otterson, J W. Barnicoat, Dr Monro, Wm. Collins, E. Baigent, Saxton, Stephens, and Parker. For the office of Superintendent, Mr G. W. Stafford was elected, and began a public career which greatly influenced colonial affairs in later years. The first meeting of the Provincial Council was held in the Court House on 3rd November, 1853, when Mr Donald Sinclair was chosen Speaker. On 6th January following the first Executive Government attached to the Nelson Council was appointed, Mr Poyn ter becoming Provincial Treasurer, Mr Henry Adams Provincial Solicitor, and Mr Alfred Dobson Commissioner of Public Works. It is not not possible to here follow the fortunes of the Provincial Councils which sat from 1853 to 1875. Among the first improvements in the condition of local people was the establishment of a steamship service in 1854, when the " Nelson " arrived from England. In January, 1855, the Council authorised the Superintendent to appoint a Commission to consider the question of establishing a system of primary Education in the Province. Dr Greenwood, Dr Monro (afterwards Sir David), and Messrs Charles Elliott, Wells, and F. A. Weld (afterwards Sir F. A. Weld, G.C.M.G., Governor of different British colonies), were entrusted with the important task. The result was the foundation and evolution of the system now followed throughout the Colony. In 1856 the Nelson College came into existence, the British Government, w"ho had taken over the affairs of the defunct New) Zealand Company, permitting the application of trust funds set apart for the purpose on the original foundation of the settlement. In 1882 the Girls College was originated by the Governors of the Nelson College. In 1856 to work a copper load on the Dun Mountain a private railway — the first in New Zealand — was built to the locality. i The industrial and commercial development of the district was greatly | accelerated in the late fifties and the sixties by the discovery of gold at Massacre Bay and on the West Coast. Gold was found at the former as early as 1858, but it was- not until 1856-7 that any number of men were engaged digging. In May, 1857, there were about 1000 men in the neighbourhood and during that year 10,4370zs of gold valued at £40,422 were obtained, while up to 1868 some 61,8740zs valued at £289,764 were obtained-

IT ■ ' _____S_^B-=== For a time excitement was acute and local business men were kept busy. Then when the fortunes of Golden Bay receded in importance new fields were exploited oh the West Coast, the Buller and part of the Grey River goldfields being in the Nelson province and under the administration of the local Government. The rich finds on the West Coast caused an enormous increase in local trade, and created up till then the most prosperous period in Nelson history, the thousands of men there (15,000 in 1865) obtaining much of their provisions and merchandise from Nelson, ahd sending hither large quantities of their gold. In October, 1856, Mr Stafford, afterwards knighted, resigned the office of Superintendent to become the First Minister of the Crown in the Colony under Responsible Government. Mr. J. P. Robinson succeeded him, and was in his turn succeeded by Mr. Alfred Saunders, who gave way to Mr. Oswald Curtis, the last-named occupying the office until the abolition of Provincial Councils in 1875. Thei Council as an object lesson to others in the colony, as a shrewd administrator of its resources and opportunities, and in instituting enlightened j legislation, which has since had ai potent influence over local destiny,' more than justified its existence. The handsome town to-day is partly the result of its work. On occasion | is was found wanting, as when the Australian Commissioners were engaged in choosing a site for the capital of. the Colony. Nelson had a big chance, but the Superintendent of the time was dilatory in providing the Commissioners with facilities for examining the district, while WeUington enterprisingly feted them, placed a vessel at their disposal, and drove them through , the country. The prize was too , great to permit of a half-hearted policy, and Nelson v:as very near to winning it. So far as railway connection was concerned, had the Council had its way the commercial progress of the district would have been stimulated enormously by the construction of a line to connect \ with Christchurch and Invercargill. j The Council took the necessary steps ! for this important trunk line, but owing to a promise from Sir Julius Yogel that the Government would undertake the work they held their hand until too late. But the wealth of the Nelson Province was materially augmented by the wisdom of this institution, and perhaps it would have been better for this part of New Zealand x had the old Provincial Councils continued in existence much longer. In 1853, inclusive of Marlborough, Nelson had a population of 5100, and its ordinary and territorial revenue amounted to £9000. In 1867, exclusive of Marlborough, Jt>ut with the newly-inhabited area on the West Coast, Nelson hud a population of 23,000 people, with a nett revenue of £120,000. New towns had sprung up, and the old order had changed. Almost contemporaneous with the abolition of the Council was the inception of the municipality. In July, 1857, the Council constituted a Board of Works, or Town Board, for Nelson, the- first members of this body being Messrs. M. Bury, Luck, C. Harley, Norgrove, Edwards, Webb, and Rankin. The Provincial Council performed useful work in the town, including the construction of a water supply by gravitation (opened April 16th, 1867) and of gas works. The Board of Works was superseded on the 80th March, 1874, by the municipality. On Ist May Mr. Joseph Reid Dodson was elected the first Mayor of Nelson. It would hardly be interesting in a sketch of this ccmpass to enter into a detailed description of the succeeding events in Nelson history — a sketch of the town and dlßtrigt as tbej are to-day will convey sufficient information of what has been done. As a monument of enlightened enterprise it will compare with any town in Australasia as what follows will seek to show. The Present. Perhaps no part of New Zealand presents so pleasing a picture of a contented people as Nelson, This is not surprising, for every condition exists that is calculated to satisfy. Blessed with a generous climate, and sprung from a good stock, they are possessed of that health of mind and body which John Lock eppigramatically described as the surest source of happiness. Add to these a town where art has been shrewdly applied to assist Nature, a country richly endowed with scenic attractions, popular and elevating institutions, and laws designed to assist the small farmer and working man, as against the man of great wealth, and some conception may be formed of the Nelson of to-day. Perhaps there are no very wealthy and certainly no very poor inhabitants. AIL; the native born have; had from a fair to a j collegiate education, for as early as September, 1842, a public school 1 was opened in the town, and the terms at the two Colleges have been j liberal. The wage earners have their eight hours a day, their weekly half holiday, and a remuneration that would delight the ordinary British : laborer at home. The merchants and tradesmen — stable and straight | dealing — conduct lucrative businesses generally putting by sufficient that when they get old they may retire on a competence. Property and house rent are moderate, and, according to an Anglo-Indian local resident writing recently to the "Queen," a gentleman with £850 a year may live in comparative affluence, and with a round of quiet pleasures. A big proportion of the larger residences and the cottages have their flower and fruit gardens, both of which bear luxuriantly. Of outdoor pleasures there is no stint ; rowing and yachting on a beautiful bay overlooked by mountains of snow, trout fishing in lovely streams, cycling alopg easy roads, cheap riding and driving among secluded hills and country farms or Jby the sea, shooting, stalking, racing, cricket, tennis, football. Nelson is bounded on one side by a glimpse of the sea, and on all others by grassy hills, between which roads lead to the farms and smaller towns. Captain Wakefield and his surveyors evinced taste and discrimination in their choice of the site, while the authorities and the people themselves have taken full advantage of the op-

pqrtunity at their hands. In spring time the view of the Maitai stream with its winding course through the town, its rustic bridges, avenues oi willows and osiers, and placid looking dwelling houses on the hanks is pleasant indeed. At that season the whole town area is a mass of verdant bloom, climbing roses, jessamine, passion flowers, honey-suckle, and scores more varieties of flowers filling the air with perfume. Right in the centre of the town, as on its outskirts, are flower and fruit gardens, and ornamental trees. There are two parks, the Queen's Gardens fording a very valuable factor towards health and pleasure. Within a couple of minutgs walk of the busiest centre of trade, they are tastefully laid out in flower beds, lawns, ponds, ornamental trees, and two playing fountains. Here is the usual bridge, here an aviary, here a few gulls, here swans and ducks disporting in the water and alongside, the Art Gallery, with some excellent pictures. Near by are the Botanical Gardens (with a rotunda in the <ientre), stretching over a steep hill ascended by a winding path, with seats' to the very top. From this hill, thfe Zig Zag, a perfect panorama of town, bay, and distant heights— rdark or snow clad — is observed. Near the Queen 'a Gardens, again, is a well stocked Museum and a Library, arid not far away the newly erected School of Music, an institution which should have a flourishing career among a people who have a predelection for music. Of other institutions besides the Colleges, Cathedral, Churches, and Public Schools, are the Hospital, the Lunatic Asylum, an Old Peoples Home, the Stoke Orphanage, and a Convent. The town possesses a water supply, is well drained, and ia lighted by gas. The municipality comprises an area of 4800 acres with about 45 acres of public reserves. The municipal receipts, general and special, for 1901, amounted to about £16,080, and the annual rateable value of property to £54,461, while the population at tne recent census was 7167. The members of the City Council are : Mayor Henry Baigent, and Messrs. C. J. Harley, Jas. Boon, Thos. Fathers, J. C. Mercer, Jas. Hudson, Tbos. Roberts, J. Orsman, W. Akersten, R. S. Gray, J. Piper, F. W. Fairey", and J. Hunter. As a holiday resort Nelson has long been celebrated both for its climate and its scenery. The climate is most seductive, soft and mild, with in winter a big proportion of bright sunny days without extreme cold. In summer it is even more delightful, the thermometer seldom running higher than 80 degrees. It therefore comes about that the district is frequently used by invalids as a sanitorium, and there is every probability that an institution of the kind will shortly be ereoted. Nelson is chosen as a place of residence by many people who have acquired a competence elsewhere in the Colony. In its population is an unusual number of people over eighty years of age, while there are several who have attained, to upwards of ninety, and even the centenarian is not unknown. The scenery beyond the town is invariably mountainous, and within easy distance are many picturesque spots. Of beautiful drives there is no end, near or distant, On one side the tourist may proceed by coach to Blenheim, on the other to Westport on the West Coast, or he may travel by private conveyance to Christchurch. One is as entertaining as another, and no better opportunity of observing New Zealand country could be obtained. Near the town are several drives to be made in the day, or less : to 1 the Reservoir through the town, up the Brook Street Valley, and among fern clad bush between high ranges of hills ; up the Maitai Valley along tixe course of ek lplea^sf— c it riv&r i - round the " Three Bridges" showing the agricultural district of the W aimeas, through Bishopdale, Stoke, Richmond, Appleby, Waimea West, Brightwater, and Hope ; to Belgrove ; to Aniseed Valley, up hill and down ; to Cable Bay by Happy Valley, -and at the end the Cable station connecting New Zealand with Australia ; to a Maori Pah near Paramatta Flat. About thirty years ago Thatcher, a much appreciated singer of comic songs, while amusing a local audience, introduced a topical allusion to Nelson as "The Sleepy Hollow." For her good or for her harm the name has ever since been associated with the city all over the colony. But as our sketches of some of the big local manufacturing and trading institutions show the term does not apply. Of her size Nelson will compare in volume of trade with most other towns in the colony. The business people are.* progressive, and in investing money to foster local industries — especially mining — have ever been Open handed. Each business man works aniieably with his,, competitors, an example not always followed, and is able to hold his own against the most strenuous trading opposition. The fact that much of the inland country is mountainous precludes rapid development of the land resources, but nevertheless the Nelson provincial district to-day maintains a population of 37,915 persons. v Some of the mountains reach a height of B,oooft. and the view of the back country with the grand sweep of tha bay from vessels approaching Nelson harbour is imposing indeed. Besides mountains there are several rivers, those on the eastern side flowing generally through mountain range* anji open valleys occupied by pastoralists. There are also several lakes. The area of the land district is estimated at 5,480,000 acres, of which the open land (Year Book) under 20Q0ft. in altitude represents about 930,000 acres, and the forest land below the same level 1,932,000 acres, while the open land above that altitude is about 760,000 acres. The wooded country is estimated at 3,740,050 acres, of which not more than 1,000,000 acres are available for clearing. The timbers are represented by the red and white pine, matai, totara, kawh&ka, rata, occasional silver pine, ahd black and red birch. Saw-milling is a substantial industry and about 4,000,000 ft. are exported annually from ten mills in the; Golden Bay district, while mills nearer Nelson supply the town and also conduct a limited export. ._ . J.

:pn 31 March, 1900, some 338,21:5, sores of land were occupied for pastocaLpurauits^ and it a Apprehended v thai much of the mountainous vrill yetj be 'utilised; %me &,0(p0,000 acres/still being unoccu* pied in the northern part of the 'i_i§tt?^' Wl^ln^w^ 860,276 ' sheep,; 84,&77 cattle, an* 8,323 horsaß in the* Nelson provincial district. 'Ty : hile:tlEie\e-¥ort:.of' wool from the port of j^elson is not very iarge it yet confeibntes fairly to the health of the^district,' and there is every probability that in future Sheep iMz eattlO rearing will' become a, more "impjartahr industry. The g^togareis« average abou. a sheep tdtfie-aeret' Agriculture and fruit gfcrtrmg forms • tfce primary sourcesofpu^lp#~ Other indu|^e_^^!"ali»ttnßct large* dimenei^ihYthe morb demote' parts Of th^ ai-^et such las the West' Coast, bu^efion riflies for the most part oS^iidustn^ of theTsbiL Y&lmosfr fot' sixty years 'she has been a-n expprtekvpf griajh and pro<ltice and she c.Onti_raes ;araong consuming comnrailities iS poptdar producer. "In eqitrp^_on "wiJin other paxtsof New Zealahd &&isttetf of ihe arsa \fHdß_ v cuitiVatibrt etinteys no- ! jusfc id#j6f lie Miriber of .Igeopfe 1 -*- gaged iid -fN varions lodeu^ations efita_ted. * s -Nelsoir is and always has bg^^hoEibme- of small fanners, of mftb^wfco plots of frudtive soil "a^neMl^^their owi wdrk arid^ gi^l^y^ l^ ■ ,4roa r! and, dthet prodtiee. v '■ The hops are -dis- : triimt#'toOngbr#era all over New; Z&pSl^ _. ovblvaf int& -inaii and exerted Kki^i^aiid/te^frmt goes W in : W6st C^jsfc >Md eVdri as fat southas Bunediit; #hil£ Quantities are ' toaimpiaa-^af the local jafli factory of KttkpatncT^tffllOO,*. who employ abofct 80Mdfj; And are among the ; L_i%est Mfl^t^l^Own manUfac-. j turers in ■•■'the" colony. ' & the "N'elscai :] proviiieiißl Strict in 1900 there were under whefctf 8&03 afcres, oats 5Jt46 acres, barley 4758 .^aeres ; *ye 54 acresi; maize 12 acres, and hops 970 acres, making a total cultivation with the areas under grass and fallow of 488,875 acres. The area in orchards does not appear. The yield of hops for the present season was about 11,000 cwt., the counties of Waimea and €oßirigwood, in this distriot, cultivating in 1900 some 970 acres out of 994 acres, the whole area so nsed 4n the colony. * Last season • about' a thousand additional -acres ' were * planted. ! The NelsoiHiops are well '■ spoken of all over New Zealand, and, constitutes the major portion consumed, theim- * parts into the colony in 1899 amounting io only 1195 cwt., while 6M28 Wtti of New Zealand hops were exported-. Y^fine crops out of the last tea have' been successful in Nelson, ol<i Eentishr scenes being often; repeated herev Of all these industries that capable- of the most extensive development is probably fruit growing. Hitherto, except for the lo*al- or colonial markets, nothing sa risfactory has been done but what wih her splendid cUmate and -soil adapted ton such culture Nelson should more than hold her own with TfiSmania in apples. The right vriettes must be planted insufficient gtantifci&s to make a big sample, small quantities of several varieties being useless. This has been the mistake m|kde all "oyer the colony. There- are five butter factories in the Nelson province, and there is room for ■ expansion in this industry. Musing has always attracted a deal of attention, and large sums of money have been expended in it. The province is rich in minerals, there being unlimited beds of iron ore, limestone, coal, chrome, and lead an 4 copperj while gold, both alluvial ani quartz, is found in several localities/- Two cpal mines are now working within easy: distance of Nelson and judging: from recent developments are likely to have a long ami successful career. - Westport, in Nelson province,. is the largest coal producer in New Zealand. The value of gold produced in the province in 1900 was £10,251 while the tota| value since 1857 has been £1,019 .189. , The future of Nelson will probably largely depend on the supreme attractions of the centre as a health and tourists resort, oh the establishment of large manufactories, on. fruit gro wing on a^cientific scale, or on the development of its, undoubtedly considerable mineral resources. A new entrance to the harbour is about to be. constructed under the auspices of a newly : constituted Harbour Board,}, and the successful accomplishment of that work is bound -to have an inestimable, in- . fluence on the . town as a centre of trader ; as a port of call for Australian boftts,Ysand. by. providing better shipping^ facilities, in encouraging y the ide^opmeut; of the latent wealth _nYth^^dLi*icfv Enterprise and energymjwtbe applied, to the biggest opportunities rather than to .mall things, which at best only provide v for: a hnuto- population. It is upon such recognition of the main chances than future expansion depends.