A NEW ZEALAND EXCURSION.

Nelson Evening Mail, Volume XIV, Issue 144, 18 June 1879, Page 4

A NEW ZEALAND EXCURSION.

The Garphic of March 25 contains an article under the title, "A New Zealand excursion, by Two Ladies," written, hy. Miss Ida Outbwait?, of Auckland. The article is illustrated by nine excellent illustrations, from draw- ■ ings by Miss Oath wake. We quote a portion, to shew the style of the " article: — " . , _i'_My friend, a genuine English lady, and myself a true colonial, started one beautiful evening, in a steamer from - Auckland, for Russell, Bay of Island?, . jiWheca wa arrived about jhalf-pastiiour. ' 4he n^xt morning. Here .an energetio ' : Gentian gentleman took Jib und,er bis protection, and having procured" a boat Bix'hours bull up the river to I ' Waitengi Falls, where, the celebrated, treaty with the Mapns',w«B signed. ' . AUer breakfast we procured horseshard mouthed animals with plenty of • go,' and very evident wills. of their owd. After a little preliminary battle for the mastery, wo went 'right away,' speeding over miles, and miles of wild country. This sort of riding, with obstreperous animals, is no joke, and my gloves were worn through, and my rein-fingers sore and bleeding" with, constant, pulling and tugging at the hard mouth of my spirited little steed. At last we arrived at our • hotel/ where we goteverything we wanted, includ- . }ng strawberries, and a sound sleep into the bargain, . ** Christmas Day came on us quite roddenly, but minus our host. Meat for dipner, too, was conspicuous by Us absence. One .solitary chicken did exist, but though, it was hunted from < tree 40 housetop, it positively refused to be caught, so, by way of consolation, '_' we; combined together to make a plum podding. As we were partaking of it, >r bn invitation came in/written in Maori, ' onmoarning paper, asking us to tea ' Oj|i^ a dance at the neighbouring settle- ' meat. Of course we wea*. :,We were; met on arrival by the girls, who bade m welcoßje; 'and two Qld women were

told off to attend to us; one to keep off the dogs and pigs, the other to wai*. We sat in circle on freshly-gathered fern-fronds, and baskets of food were placed in the centre — pork and potatoes cooked in a hanqi (Maori oven), plum pudding, and pannikins of tea, very strong and without milk and sugar. We, of course, used our fingers for forks, and held a potato in one band and a bone of meat in the other. When one is hungry this way of taking one's food is quite relishing ! When we had finished, they gathered the remains of the feast together for ua to carry away, which is a custom they have. Then the chief came, and in dignified language made us a long harangue of apology, bemoaning his want of proper food and accessories for his white friends. But we heard a whisper that he was 'an old sneak, and didn't mean it ! ' The speech ended, we went to prayers, which were conducted by a Maori member of Parliament; and then j to the school-room, where the dance was to take place, and which was the only room in the building that would allow of any one Btandiog erect in ali its parts. Presently the music (a concertina, played by a Maori) struck up. The girls were very shy, but we said we would not look on all night, and when we each took a partner they seemed to gain a little confidence — waltses, mazurkas, and vareoviennes were danced well and with spirit. In the middle of the evening we prevailed upon the natives to give us some of their hakas, or old posture dances, and very quaint, weird performances they were, given with wonderful time and rhythm, and accompanied by a peculiar chant. Overhearing two of the young men 'egging each other on' to the point of asking the 'white girls' to dance, we intimated that we would dance ' Sir Roger ' with them, which, perhaps, some of your English readers will think was very bold; but then you see we manage theae things better in New Zealand. They danced, however, in a very statuesque and classical style, which was not in accordance with my notion of how * Sir Roger ' should be danced. So I created a diversion by going my very fastest. The old men applauded, the women choked with laughter, and the young men called out • Abi ! Ahi ! Like the wind, like the wind she goes; not a sound; not a sound ! " My example was contagious, and the room was very soon in a glorious uproar; and so wound up the bal). Our homeward journey was long, for we were tired. Only think of two ladies alone on a muddy forest road at midnight. "We got home safely; I on the most sobborn of steeds it has ever been my lot to ride, which is saying not a little., Gentle persuasion was useless, and caatigation was a farce. He would not go. I hit him behind, and he kicked up; I bit him before, and he reared. I shouted in English and Maori, 'Go, you Tawrikarika ! Oh ! teach me some Maori oaths,' I implored of my eßcort. He said nothing, but he cut a tea-tree switch, with which he hammered the brute for about thirty miles; and then the wretched animal v took it into his bead to gallop, but he was '• done up " by the time we go home. "We took sketching material with us, and I prevailed on a Maori to ' stand ' for me. .. Ho w beautifully picturesque he appeared the illustration will show, " 1 suppose your readere, especially those of the fair sex, will think this a verywild sort of life, in fact, quite shocking; but if it is somewhat rude, baa it not a pleasant fascination, a delighted healthinees and freedom ?" •, * — ■ „ ,;r-»