IN THE GARDEN

Northern Advocate, 16 November 1935, Page 6

IN THE GARDEN

[BY “TAINUI”]

Coloured: Foliage. Variegated foliage is most attractive in the garden/ and bushes of the ' yellow-leaved Euonymus, Privet, Pitv tosporum, Eugenioides, Abutilpn and ■ others of light colouring will ' look particularly well towards the back of J , a border of mostly blue and yellow , flowers. Grey foliage shrubs look well in the ■ , mixed border with flowers of > pink <' : and mauve shades. Catmint, lavender, ,< santalina and pinks are pretty dwarf ; • grey foliage plants. 1: Bronze and reddish foliage, is very : showy and is conspicuous just now in the bronze flax (phormium), red teatree and Japanese maples, prunus pissardi, purple birch and others. I like , these grouped and planted along with cannas with coloured leaves and • dwarf shrubby begonias, so ■ as to make a bold show of colour in differ - ; ent shadings. ; ' ; Celery. Ceiery is a big feeder, but it is imi portant to feed it ,at.. the -right time. it is a mistake, particularly in our cli- ' mate, to attempt to force early growth by using such stimulating fertilisers • as nitrate of soda or sulphate of am- ■ monia. These manures will draw out

the stalks, but at the expense of the resistance. Soot makes an excellent dressing for celery. As soon sas the plants have become established, a dressing between the rows and about the plants will help them. If, then,

you are thinking of growing celery, it

would be a good idea to lay in a supin readiness when

~the time comes. ~ If the soot is also w ; dusted on the foliage of the plants it 'Z. will help to keep away insects. The Z rain will soon wash the soot into the ‘X . soil and down to within reach of the also- excellent for this crop, but it is very strong, and should be broken down with a feig admixture of soil’ be- ; fore: u&hg.;,it;. 1 oi-it should be taker* : down with water. Place about a peck of the manure in a coarse bag and *. allow it to stand for two or three days 1’ in a tub containing about thirty gallons of water. This liquid .manure f i may be used once a week until April, the manure being renewed about ; every three weeks. Do not be impatient to earth up the plants. Let ; them almost reach maturity before 1 earthing up. Liquid Manure. Every section has some out-of-the-way corner where a barrel of liquid manure may -be stored for use. An old tar barrel which can be sunk into the ground will do. The charge may con--2 ; sist of sheep droppings or rotted cow manure, with two-thirds of water. The - whole should be stirred as the liquid is drawn off for use. At first it may be a little strong, when it should be diluted to the colour of ale or weak tea. Do not use it too strong, but err , on the weak side if everything. Do not apply the liquid to a dry soil. If the soil is hot wet, give it a thorough - soaking before using the manure. A quantity of soot added to the manure will help to prevent the latter becoming objectionable; and it will also im- ■ prove the quality of the manure. , Liquid manure, provided it is not abused, is an excellent stimulant, par- < ticularly for leafy vegetables. Leeks. Leeks may be-planted out either in trenches of in drills, the former being preferable. The bottom of the trench should be covered with a layer of rotted manure well mixed in with good soil, and with a few inches of soil added on top. If planted on the level in drills, the latter should be run as in preparing for peas or beans. If the ground requires fertilising, a mixture of bonedust and super, about one to one should be placed along the drills. For quick work and fairly good ret suits, the dibbler may be used. • Insert this to a depth of about 12 inches. On removing the dibbler, some of the fertiliser will fall' in. The plants, which should be fairly well grown, about 8 inches long, are inserted in ' the holes as far as possible and then partly withdrawn so as to put the roots in a natural position. The dibbler is next inserted an inch or two from the hole, and then pressed over towards the plant. The movement will bring the soil into direct contact with the fibrous roots, and the plant will soon become established. Do not ' close up the hole completely; leave It

, i: .v OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER. ' ', the vegetable garden. Malfe' sowings of dwarf and runner beans. Sow rock melons. be'&ntld S the troughs between praC “ Ce Where ‘ he Po ‘ at ° rows are pie-melons, marrows.' - A DO not anow the seed- ' lings to become drawn. Rtudfart) C may^^growrf easily from seed. Present sowings should Rh gfve Sicks in the autumn. Liberal manuring and a good position are necessary ; for quick growth. Tomato seed may still be sown for late crops. Sow haricot beans for winter use. . |°ve marrow and pumpkin, plants thorough and frequent waterings during dry spalls. • , THE FLOWER GARDEN. Aquilegia and Sweet William seed may be sown now. The seedq lines should flower this time next year. HollyhSli are vry subject t,> rust. They will benefit by sprayand , nee<i disbudding,’ wSi f also, perhaps, spraying with nicotine cause sweet peas to drop their buds. Other'causes are over manuring and too much water. The plants generally get over -this trouble as the season advances. The parasite Orobancle Major (Brown Rape) may be seen growing from the roots of sweet peas and other plants. Care should be taken to remove this pest as soon as it is noticed, and Bearded^rises^ as soon as they have finished flowering. When dividing, use only the outside of the clump, breaking the rhizome up and using small pieces for planting Polyanthus and primroses 1 may be lifted and planted close together in the back garden until the autumn, when they may Zinnia be had in separate colours, giving the opportunity of working out colour schemes. Seed may still be sown of the Giant as well as the Lilliput varieties. Alonsoa, ageratum, agathea and other perennial plants that have been flowering during the last few months, may be cut back. They will, soon make' new growth and flower again. Continue to plant chrysanthemums, dahlias, salvias, petunias, carnations, phlox Drummondii, asters, perennial and annual sunflowers, delphiniums,. Michaelmas daisies, cannas, mina lobelia, antirrhinum, etc. Sow seed of cosmos, celosia, French mangolds, petunia, zinnia, portulaca, etc. ■

a little open at the top, so as to facilitate watering during dry- spells as well as liquid manuring later. Leeks are easy to grow. Good drainage is necessary, and copious manuring, in which nitrogenous manure should predominate, are necessary for the best results. Little Things That Count. Bearded Irises like a firm soil, and one that is not over-manured, and that contains lime. Part of ' the rhizome should be showing above ground. When forking about carnations, chrysanthemums, and many other plants, take care not to disturb the roots.

When mulching, -spread the mulch evenly beyond the spread of the plant leaves, and do not allow the mulch to touch the stems of the plants. Long growths from climbing roses* should be tied into position, while they are soft and easily trained. Most of the spring flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon' as the flowers fade, as the new growth starts at once for next season’s bloom.

Cyclamen are finishing their flowering season now. They may be taken out of the pots and planted in a shady part of the garden to partially dry off. Seedling cyclamen that have flowered for the first time this year, will be quite good for another season. The corms will not stand lifting , and dry off like gladioli. The cyclamen start their new growth early in the autumn. Ladybirds feed on plant lice and scale insects and should not be killed.

The large spiders found in the garden feed on flies and other insects. I am inclined to think that- they eat platers also. These spiders should not be-killed. »

The Ixias are becoming popular both for garden decoration ' and for cut flowers. The green ixia yiridiflora is a great favourite with many. The flower is a beautiful green shade and has a dark eye. The yellow ixia with the dark ,eye is also good. Any moderately good soil will suit. The plants do not take long to dry off after flowering, and may be transplanted if necessary,- or they may be stored until autumn. >

A small lump of nitrate of soda dropped into the heart of a dandelion will soon kill the plant. Sodium chlorate solution sprayed On oxalis during dry weather will kill the plant and the bulbs. More than one spraying may be necessary. Old rose beds will benefit by hav : ing the top few inches of soil removed and replaced with new soil mixed with cow manure. Sods from a pasture turned upside down will make a good top-dressing. Lonicera nitida makes a splendid hedge plant for small gardens; and the foliage is small and neat. Cuttings may be' taken this month and planted in a nursery bed.