Cures Through Joy

Manawatu Times, Volume 64, Issue 172, 24 July 1939, Page 12

Cures Through Joy

BATHS DE LUXE OF BUDAPEST A “cure” can bo a very pleasant experience in Budapest, where hot and cold natural springs, many with valuable medicinal properties, abound. Bathing, indeed, is the chief summer amusement in this beautiful city of sophisticated amusements (writes A. Haire-Foster). The three great bathing establishments are the Szechenyi, the Palatinus on Margaret Island, and the Gellert, the last being the most exclusive and club-like. Perched on the side of a hill, it has a charming but rather artificial garden arranged like a maze* so that while it lias the appearance of unity, part can be reached only from the baths and part from the hotel and restaurant. The famous wave-bath is blue-tiled, while the inside ehampagno bath, so called because of the bubbles which sparkle in it, has a sliding glass roof and a terrace with artificial sunlight lamps. At all baths there are restaurants, but at the Qellert is the best, Gundel, who is to Budapest what Gunther is to London, being the caterer. To go there regularly for a few days is to get to know the notabilities. The beautifully browned young women who appear to have a special claim on the mattresses placed on either side of the chute, are dancers from the theatres and night clubs. They never, of course, go into the water, but lie there oiling themselves “making up” tlieir faces, patting their curls, and chatting to their cavaliers. Murati Lili, who is one of Hungary’s best young “straight” actresses, arrives daily about noon—a quiet, charming girl, with very good “style.” Then there are the lovely society ladies whoso variety of chic costumes seems endless, whose tan is perfection, and the beauty of whose hands is excelled only by that of their feet. Their routine is always the same—a sun-bathe surrounded by a little court, a swim, a change into another smart bathing dress, luncheon, and then bridge, one corner of the large terrace being the reserve of a bridge club. Perchance, a large car with a crown and a hussar in cherry-coloured uniform laced with silver at the entrance to the baths denotes the presence of royalty. The Archduchess Augusta, wife of the Archduke Albrecht Habsburg, is a frequent visitor. Her especial pleasure is the wave-bath, and, as long as she is in it, the waves are kept going. On these important occasions they are “turned on” for a quarter of an hour every half-hour, a siren sounding the signal. The place is beautifully kept, sweepers go round with a long-handled dustpan collecting any chance cigarette ends or spent matches. Tho sweepers are elderly women, whose aspect of weariness and boredom is equalled only by the ennui of the bath attendants, magnificent looking young men who have to be on the alert should auyone get into difficulties at the deep end, or dive into the waves, which is “highly dangerous and strictly prohibited.” The sweepers also go round with a little bell and a board bearing the name of someone wanted on the telephone, or the dire information that a certain car lias been parked in a prohibited area! One day the board bore the name “Bordy Bella,” whereupon Budapest’s enchanting little premiere ballerina came running out of tho champagne bath. There is something very disarming In the naive curiosity of the Hungarian. An English girl arrived at the baths one morning wearing a particularly pretty blue bathing dress of a new' pattern. Presently up came a Hungarian, stood in front of her, clicked his heels, and boned (formalities that always look a little ridiculous in bathing kit!) saying: “Pardon, excuse, I speak to you, but I have a message from my wife, pardon, excuse, but where did you get your swim suit?” The sun sets early behind the Gellert Kill, so the wave-bath is deserted soon 1 after 4 o’clock, but there is tea dansant every afternoon on the big terrace to a jazz band, and—naturally — more dancing after dinner to Gipsy music.