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GARDENING

Colour in the Carden. Refreshing showers have been the means of adding much colour to the borders. Gannas are revelling in the extra moisture, and the colourful display they make provides a feast for the eyes. The lovely green and bronze, foliage displays the glorious shades to perfection. Dahlias too, are rejoicing, as these are not at all fond of dry conditions. There are now such gorgeous' colourings among them that they are an asset to any garden, and quite a feature of the landscape. In large herbaceous borders or fronting shrubberies the large decorative type are to be seen, while smaller areas are devoted to the beautiful charm section and the pompoms. The tritomas, or red-hot pokers, hold their torches erect, demanding admiration, which they certainly get, while nearby clumps of blue and white agapanthus throw them into vivid relief. The zinnias are quite a feature of the February garden, providing much colour. Softer tones of colour are found where the asters bloom, with early michaelmas daisies inthe background. Beds of phlox drummondii are at their best, while petunias are much appreciated. In the rock garden some colour is still to be found. The gayanias are gay in yellow and orange shadings. Blue is provided by some of the autumn flowering campanulas, while pockets devoted to portulaca are wonderfully bright. Dwarf petunias help to brighten up the scene and clumps of lebelia. The fragrance of verbenas is appreciated combined with their wonderful colourings. The lovely trailing ipomea mauritanicus with its mauvy blue blooms is a feature of the autumn garden and is always admired. Dwarf tritomas also give a welcome display in this section of the garden. Shady spots devoted to hardy ferns and hydrangeas are now very beautiful. The ferns throwing out many fresh green fronds and the hydrangeas much improved with the extra moisture. Gladiolus too are with us, the lovely spikes in their wonderful tints, together with large well shaped blooms command the admiration of all lovers of the garden. Thegeraniums provide a wealth of colour, especially those of the ivy type, while spikes of golden rod and heleniums add variety. Routine Work in the Borders. Continue with the planting of all kinds of narcissi. In light soil plant them fully six inches deep, and four inches in heavy soils. Provide them with bone meal, and they revel in decayed garden refuse and farmyard manure well down, for the roots to delve into. Sow sweet peas for early blooms in well prepared trenches. Sow seeds of hardy annuals such as linaria, iceland poppies, calendula, godetia, nemesia, linums, etc. Sow seed of polyanthus primroses, cineraria, primulas, pansies, Wallflowers, sweet Williams, Canterbury bells, and other biennials and perennials. Plant the first early anemones and ranunculi in welL drained soil, provide them with plenty of decayed stuff from the compost heap or leaf mould, and where there is any danger of sail pests, dig in Napthalene and leave three weeks before planting. Deeply dig and manure all plots that happen to be vacant, these may be devoted to bulbs of any kind. Unless seed is wanted, keep all faded flowers plucked from the borders, and even where seed is wanted it is only necessary to save a few heads. Prune roses half-way back in order to provide a few blooms in the late autumn. Sow seed of stocks and mignonette in pots for winter blooms. Stocks are very acceptable for taking indoors during the scarce months. The beauty of nice type is one of the best for the purpose as they branch out well. Continue to plant bulbs in pots and baskets for the same purpose. Strike cuttings of fuchias, cactii, and geraniums. The Vegetable Garden. Make the final sowing of peas and french beaus. Sow spinach in well manured trenches. Sow a little lettuce seed in a trench so that it can be kept well moistened. Sow a little early cabbage and cauliflower seed, also some parsley seed. Continue to set out winter greens of any kind that may be available. Keep celery well watered, and sprinkled with soot and lime to keep slugs away, give occasional doses of liquid mr.nure. Sow another row or two of carrot and beetroot. Sow silver beet, and white turnips. Tomatoes are now ripening freely and it is a good plan to nip the tips of all leaders so that the strength of the plant may be devoted to maturing the fruit.

Tread over all ripened onions, and lift shallots as soon as they are ready or the roots will commence to grow again.

The “fly 7 7 is no.v very troublesome and something must be done in the way of spraying or dusting to keep them in check a little, even wood ashes sprinkled over them while they arc wet with the dew is a help. Bulbs for the Rock Garden.

A collection of enoicc, small bulbous plants lend additional interest to the rock garden, and the time is here when these charming things must be chosen and planted for next season 7 s display. It is here that we are able to show these dainty subjects to full advantage by planting them in little colonies, either in the full sun or at the foot of a shady boulder, according to their requirements. Providing that there, is plenty of moisture at their rots, most of the narcissi will revel in sunshine, as will also the crocus family, but in the case of the sciilas, grape hyacinths, dogs tooth violets, chionodoxas, and snakes heads, the effect is greater and the plants are happier in partial shade. Our sites for the various kinds should therefore be chosen with discretion. Almost any good garden soil to which has been added a little leaf mould will suit the majority, On the cook side of the rock garden a place should be devoted to some of the handsome large flowering snow*

(Specially written for “The Times’* oy “Lorna.”)

drops (Galanthus) from Asia Minor of which there are many kinds. The crocuses are indispensable and include many forms and colours. The alliums may be represented and there are several quite noteworthy ones among them and their trusses of bloom are long lasting, especially allium loly with its masses of bright, starry, yellow flowers, others are beautiful violet pinks, mauves, and white. The chior.odoxas bring into the garden some oj: the loveliest shades of blues, and once established they increase rapidly, rarely exceeding one foot in height. These pretty subjects revel both in sun or shade, and comprise chionoroxa gigantea which has the largest blooms of them all, in rich and soft blue, pink, and white. The Mariposa tulips (calochortus) are mostly natives of California. A well drained soil is essential for these choice plants and some kind of shelter during the winter months. Fritillaria meleagris (Uhe snakes head) is a plant of much refinement and charm, its purple chequer id flowers arresting the attention of young and old alike. The white variety is a very choice and beautiful plant. Sciilas in their rich blues must be catered ‘for as well as the grape hyacinths. From the great narcissi family, a few charming ones should be selected-among which are angels tears (N. Triandrus Albus) with white reflexed blooms, the dainty hoop petticoat daffodils (N. Bulbocodium) in canary, .bright yellow, and white. Narcissi cyclamineus, a rich yellow tube-like 'flower, Narcissi Queen of Spain, a canary yellow, a wild hybrid of the finest order’ and indispensable, and others too numerous to mention. From the tulip family a few should be selected including. Clusiana, a graceful study of white an d . crimson eichleri, with handsome crimson scarlet flowers, Fosterianay a gorgeous flower of flaming scarlet and one of the most prized species, and Greigii, in orange scarlet. The double forms, commonly, called Parrot tulips are nice too. The various kinds of lachenalias must be included as they are among the gayest of bulbs for the rock garden, also the different types of nerines, most of which are suitable and flower freely. Then there are the babianas, freesias, and Spanish, and reticulata irises. There is one great advantage in growing all these little gems in the rock garden, as they are not in danger from and spades, when sometimes, a particular group has been forgotten, or the places r ot marked, or perchance, a new hand, L e engaged in the tidying up of the gardon. So Dt as a Fertiliser. There can be no doubt that soot is an excellent fe rtiliser, and is possibly less appreciated as such than it deserves to be. Various experiments have been tried by enthusiastic gardeners to ascertain their effect upon the production of various culinary crops. The results obtained from the portion of laud dressed with soot being nearly equal in some cases to those obtained from land dressed with stable manure. Soot should be procured whenever possible and it is oi: great importance that it should be kept dry. It may with benefit be applied to all kinds of soil, light as well as heavy. There is hardly a crop cultivated on which it may not with great advantage be occasionally used. Soot water is exceedingly , beneficial when applied to pot plants, and few, if any plants grown in pots would not benefit by its occasional application. In the case of the onion plant it is of great value. This crop is frequently attacked by the maggot, which if not checked soon commits sad havages. One of the best remedies is a good dressing of soot, and as prevention is bettor than cure, the land intended for t ic crop should have a dressing of this material just before sowing the seed. Seed beds when the seed is just about l;o germinate are apt to be attacked by birds, and this may sometimes be averted by giving the surface of the beds a slight dressing of fresh soot, the odour of which birds do not relish. A slight dusting round newly planted plants will go far to keep slugs away. Rhubarb. Unless on soil which produces very prolifically, no more rhubarb should be pulled after this month. What foliage is present should be allowed to die back into the crowns, thus strengthening them for a further effort next year. A good mulch of farmyard manure applied now, v rill prove to be very beneficial to the plants. Rambler Roses. The state of the soil at this season

is apparently very suitable for the production of many strong coung growths that are springing up from the base, take great care of these, loosely tying in an upright or elevated horizontal position, so that they do not drag on the ground and become a prey to mildew. The flowering wood is now all flnished and may be cut out, and the new growths tied in its place. Pot Chrysanthemums. The present is a good time in which to lift some of the late flowering kinds from the garden into pots for bringing indoors when frosts appear. The shifting will have the effect of putting them back a little, but the later they bloom, the more they will be appreciated. Each shoot should be nipped back, when another break will occur, which is also conducive to late blooming. See that they are kept well supplied with moisture and liquid manure at a later stage, when the buds are well developed. ■ 1

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/MT19380224.2.87

Bibliographic details

Manawatu Times, Volume 63, Issue 46, 24 February 1938, Page 10

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1,906

GARDENING Manawatu Times, Volume 63, Issue 46, 24 February 1938, Page 10

GARDENING Manawatu Times, Volume 63, Issue 46, 24 February 1938, Page 10