A Fashion Foreword

Manawatu Times, Volume 62, Issue 105, 5 May 1937, Page 14

A Fashion Foreword

The Coronation Influence (From Our London Correspondent) fashion lines are taking shape and several ideas are already available to point the way to women considering their; new wardrobes. The rather charming “swing” skirt which was popular last season has givem place to some extent to one which is straighter and tighter. Not hobble, by any means, hut very smart because it is short. Thirteien to 14in. from the ground is the correct length, where suit skirts are concerned. The tailored walking dress may be slightly longer. Even cocktail and cinema party frocks are on the short side and, as a matter of fact, the neat suit is the better choice for these occasions. With the shorter, straighter skirt goes the short, fitted jacket which is frequently scarcely hip length. It is plainly tailored, meticulously fitted, often having slit pockets or pocket flaps, and it may be single or double breasted, the opening filled in with a coloured scarf—■ which, incidentally, is more in the picture than ever. Two-colour suits will he shown by the designers very soon, the jackets in patterned material, the skirt in plain. Most attractive schemes have been worked out. Another idea is to have skirt and jacket alike and to introduce the second colour in flat lapels On the latter. Black and dark blue lapels are turned back, very smartly, with amber gold, Ascot orange, pennant green or one of the other new tints appearing in the season’s colour chart. Blouses are important and designers point out that they can make or mar the more “dressy” costumes which have not the severe scarves filling in the jacket opening at the throat. Exquisite things in the finest muslin, lawn, chiffon, crepe and satin are shown, each one made especially for the suit it accompanies. Sometimes there is a hint of the Edwardian era in the lace edgings, tucks and pleats that adorn lawn models. They are delightful, but not very practical on account of the time and trouble needed in laundering them perfectly. However, one or two would not, perhaps, be an extravagance to wear with s silk or satin suit. The Line Changes. Evening gowns illustrate the vogue for thd higher waist-line, shirring and draping at the bust, and, in some eases, the skirts of Directoire inspiration. It is a gracious and graceful silhouette for the woman who is slender enough to carry it off. The Directoire skirt is fairly tight, but slit at one side, or else cut all round the hem to suggest flower petals. When thei slit is at the side it reveals a fluffy tulle petticoat in a contrasting colour. Here comes thei opportunity to try out colour effects with black. The bodice, besides being high-waisted, may reach almost to the throat in front and dip deeply at the back. In any case the bust line is defined—in the classic gown by means of seams and darts. The more “dressy” model has shirring which draws the material across the front to the sides in small, graceful folds. Tailored Notes. Another “best seller” will probably be the( tailored evening dress —or rather semi-evening dress—which is likely to take the lead for informal occasions from tea-time until midnight. It looks well in dull-surfaced satin, which lends itself admirably to the severity of the style demanding, as it does, the fitted bodice, button fastening from throat to hem, long sleeves finished with neat cuffs. The one touch of exuberance, as it were, comes with the huge cluster of vivid flowers posed at thei waist, may be, on the shoulder, or at the throat. Some day frocks also are cut on tailoredlines although they have quite short sleeves. A new idea for their adornment is wool in a contrasting colour couched down with matching thread. A yoke on the bodice and a flounce on the skirt may be suggested in this way, and when the dress is in one of the rich dark shades, sponsored by the designers by way of relief from the brighter ones, wonderful effects can be achieved by using wool in a vivid tint, Linens and Laces. Linens of all kinds are in the fashion programme. One looks like alpaca, ami is good for simple suits and walking dresses. Linen tweed again takes its place in dress schemes, and embroidered old bleach is as popular as it deserves to be. Stripes and cheeks and conventional patterns are available; so are linens embroidered with heraldic, floral and foliage designs. Lace remains for Coronation season, in cotton, wool and silk. One designer has used it for a tailor-made suit for a gala occasion, posing it over a firm foundation and so cutting and stitching the two that much of the fragility, but none of the attraction, of the dentelle is camouflaged. Some lace is dull of surface, some cire; there are fine silken threads traced in patterns on net backgrounds; heavier cottons on heavier nets looking rather like Jacobean embroidery; silver lace, gold lace—all kinds of lace, in fact, used for all kinds of things, from blouses to costumes. Head Lines. Hats are steadily becoming lower. By the time the Coronation takes place they will probably be quite flat and, in most cases, small for the time being at any rate, because it had been pointed out that no woman in London for tha celebrations who has respect for her fellow creatures will wear anything approaching a cart-wheel brim to spoil other people’s view of the procession. Later, we shall see the graceful hat back again, with floral trimmings. Now we have flowered toques, turbans, berets, still a few pill boxes—and always veils. But the veil does not necessariJy screen the eyes. Often it is draped over the crown of the hat and left to flutter down the back, rather in the Victorian manner. A charming fashion, this, the veil giving a becoming background for the face, and softening the rather bleak appearance of the back of tlie neck when the hair is short and the hat just perches on the crown.