Maori Charm

Manawatu Times, Volume LIV, Issue 7193, 27 June 1933, Page 2

Maori Charm

I had hardly finished luncheon when I was told that tho Flnori guide, Rangi, was on the hotel steps waiting to sec me. The Maoris in tho tourist district are supposed to be spoiled. There may bo some truth in this assertion. J was

too new a coiner to find them anything but charming, keen wilted and pleasant. You will not get business if you dont look for it. Rangi, chief guide iu the district, had heard of my arrival and she at onco presented horsclf to take me sight-seeing, I had meant to spend a peaceful afternoon in the gardon but Rangi would not hear of my putting off till to-morrow what I could do to-day.

At three o’clock wc set oil to see the Fladri village of Whaka, or lo givo it its full name Whakarewarcwa. It lies, this village of hot and cold springs, about three miles from Rotorua. Here ■the Maoris have their homes, their courthouse and their church. Wc went in a motor-bus and then walked for a few hundred yards. ‘‘Look,” said Rangi, "that boy, he is lying in a warm pool. Next it tho water is boiling, tho other side is ice cold.” Feeling was believing! Everywhere these pools, sometimes hot and steaming, sometimes clear, blue and cold. In one pool a chicken was roasting and in a bubbling stream three kettles were boiling. We picked our way between the pools on paths that looked as if they were made of concrete or cement; really they wero consolidated lava. A Maori woman with a brown baby camo out to talk to us. Small children gathered round and eved me curiously . . .

Rangi took me to see her home, a mark of favour and an honour not accorded to everyone. Through tho wicket-gate wo came into the garden beautifully tidy and well kept. There stood Rangi’s home. Tho Fluori home consists of one large room. There is no need for kitchens, scullery or bathroom; nature has provided these. The big whnrc where Rangi lived was meticulously clean. The doors with their carved figures were wide open to receive us, for the Flnori dispenses with bolts and bars.

There were many' treasures inside; finely woven mats on the floor,. kiwi cloaks dating from previous generations, a Chinese bedspread, brought from across tho sea. The clock with its up-to-date face that stood on a big tablo, on -which was an Irish linen elota. •were modern contrasts.

Tho bed was massively carved, excellent examples of Flnori work adorned the walls. Her father, she told me, had done all the carving. He was evidently a master of the art for the work was very fine and intricate. . .

Already the charm of New Zealand had me in its grip.—Lady Angela St. Clair Erslciinc, in "Fore and Aft.”