GARDEN FIELD

Manawatu Times, Volume LVI, Issue 7065, 26 January 1933, Page 4

GARDEN FIELD

Specially written for tho Routine Work in the Borders. , In somo parts wolcomo showers have fallen which wilt help along the dahlias and .chrysanthemums immensely.. Late planted dahlias. should have the tip nipped out to encourage side growths. Keep them staked and tied in as the growth proceeds. Threo stakes instead of one tends to produce a much more graceful and ornaniontal plant. Stako miclmelmas daisies with twiggy pieces, so that- the growths fall gracefully instead of being tied up in a tight bunch. Plant’ out all kinds of bulbs. Early planting means a longer period to root deeply, resulting in better blooms. Plant hyacinths on raised beds with plenty of hay mould and sand where tho soil is heavy. A peaty soil also suits tlio hyacinth. ' Plant tulips fully six inches deep with well decayed-manure placed well clown. Tulips also love lime and bonemeal may be used for all bulbs. Sow seeds of cgrlv spring flowering things, Primula malacoidcs, cineraria, wallflowers calendulas, iccland poppies, winter flowering sweet peas, linaria, etc. Take cuttings of pansies, violas, pinks, carnations, aubrotias, etc. Sandy and moist, shady positions are required. Lift all bulbs needing attention without further delay. Roots in many cases have already commenced to form. Prune out the old growths of rambler roses. Take Tose cuttings. Pruno bedding roses half way back, a bolter a-utumn crop will result. The Vegetable Garden. Unsettled weather conditions bavo proved more favourable for the planting out of winter greens, celery and leeks. Keep all ground well hoed and free from weeds which quickly run to seed at this season. -Keep runner beans well watered and give a. weekly dose of liquid manure. Pumpkins, marrows, cuembers etc. can do with any amount of moisture. ■ Continue to sow-dwarf-beans and peas, also cauliflower and cabbage for a later supply. From now on tomatoes will need plenty of moisture to swell the fruit. Kocp all surplus growths severely-pruned off, also tho tips- of the plants which will have-set all tho fruits- that the plant has -time to rip cm

Caro of tho Rock Garden. There are many free flowering ana strong growing rock-plants which, if left to their own .devices year after year, will soon occupy too -much space with the luxuriance of .their foliage. Although this rapid growth may for a year or two appear quite healthy and ornamental and bear flue blooms in profusion, sooner or later the plants feel the ill effects of being left too much to themselves. The result will be seen in a gradual loss of their former dense and healthy foliage and the production of flowers, which, as the seasons pass, become more and more inferior in quality and quantity. Many such plants become thin and straggling in growth with long slender shoots almost devoid of leaves and flowers, and the effect is not at all pleasing. The truth is that tho plants are growing old before their time. Sub-shrubbing plants, as they are called, that is, those whose growth is twiggy, as though half shrub and half softwood are especially liable to rapid deterioration in this way, and in some cases one year’s neglect is sufficient, to reduce a young healthy plant to something like a scarecrow. In fact, the same thing takes place with them as would with those low-growing, tufted things such as the mossy and other saxifrages, androsaces etc., if the annual top dressing worked among the tufts were omitted.

Amongst sub-shrubby plants there are some that everyone grows, as for instance hclianthcmums, hypericums, lavender, heaths. Others which have tho same tendency to grow old before their time are the aubretias, arabis, alyssums, violas, thymes, and the tall growing dianthus and the phloxes.

If these are to continue giving a wonderful display of bloom year by year they must bo dealt with now. At no other time can so much be done to preservo their youthful vigour and help them to keep up appearances. It is not sufficient merely to snip off the dead flower.stalks or tho straggling shoots, or just the fresh, green growths. Take firm hold of a handful of stems and foliage and cut clean away close to the old harder wooded part of the plant. No half measures aro of any use, and it the plants do look bare and “twiggy,” afterwards they will very rapidly make enough new, sturdy growth to hide all traces of hard usage. ...

By-this means one can make sure of compact, sturdy, growth, which will bear lino blooms in profusion next year. Do not hesitate to cut clean away, and closely, all the long growths and stalks of both violas and dianthas —close clipping will do no harm. A look round at this time of the year will reveal the fact that many plants are becoming too crowded, and have spread beyond al! belief to the extent, in somo cases, of getting mixed up with their neighbours. In too many gardens dealing with these plants is loft until late autumn, when the general cleaning off is done. The result is that frequently one is not able to tell which is which, for the worst offenders are those plants which rapidly spread underground. So now, while we can tell which as which and seo just where encroachment, already* exists, or is threatened, we should severely curb those plants whose inclination .is to wander too' far. To do this, a portion of the encroaching plant must be removed. It simply will not do just to seize a handful of the foliage and break it off or pull it' away, as this will be ineffect-

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Times by “Lornn/’ ive for any length of time. With a hand fork or trowel dig up the offending part, and a little besides to allow for future growth. If this is not dono tho shoots will only appear with renewed vigour, and still further afield than before. Saponias and gypsophila rcpciis are among those which need to bo close cut. Gypsophila Repous Rosea.

Many owners of . rock or alpino gardens arc familiar with gypsophila repens, a hardy perennial which makes a spreading mat. of dark green foliage, studded in spring with a wealth of dainty white flowers. Gypsophila repens rosea is not, however, quite so often met with, and is well worth growing, as its dainty flowers are a pleasing pink shade. The plant is singularly graceful ui oSimiuApu oj sjuaddu pun ‘uqtni ni a’ pocket where its growths can trail and hang over a ledge of rock, Autumn flowering crocuses may be planted in tho same pocket. These will push their way through tho evergreen mat and brighten up tho spot during the fall of the year. Tho gypsophila family lovo plenty of lime, leaf mould, sand and rich loam. Bulbs for Forcing.

If wo who linvo greenhouses or warm, sunny windows are to have them gay with flowering bulbs in .late winter or early spring, wo ought not to forget that it is early planting which mostly ensures his—not the amount of heat we can provide, later. Now is the time when wo should think of potting up some in order that they can be given a long period of steady growth, so that in early winter the pots will bo well full of roots, and they will better stand the wanner influence of the house to lure them into bloom. Tho .standard compost for bulbs in pots is well known. It is one made up of friable loam, leaf mould iu equal proportions with a little coarse sand added, also a sprinkling of bone meal. Pots should bo clean and well crocked, Small bulbs like scillns, crocuses and chionodoxas will not stand a great deal of heat, but they are all tho better for being planted early, and soon respond to slightly warmer conditions. Narcissi, such as King Alfred, Emperor, Sir Watkiu, as well as the old double form of daffodil force very well after growth has been made, and this applies equally well in the caso of hyacinths and single early and .double tulips. Everything depends on tho time the bulb's arc given to admit their making roots, without which it is useess to attempt forcing.

When potted they should be quartered in a cold frame or shed, and be covered with ashes. If this is not possible, it is within the power of anyone to dig a trench in the garden, covering with ashes, and keep them there till the end of May or oven June. Bulbs may also bo grown in fibre, but deteriorate owing to their not gaining enough nourishment.

Violets for Spring. Having a good crop of these flowers next spring depends in a great measure on the treatment of the plants during the heat and drought of summer. If the beds are allowed to suffer from the want of water, red spider will often attack them, and tho growth become stunted by the pest. Copious supplies of water will bo required on light soils but this labour of watering may bo greatly reduced by mulching or mowings from the lawn. In place of a mulch, hoeing will go a long way to preserve the moisture in the soil and so promote growth. Therefore endeavour to keep the surface soil in a. loose, pliable condition. Further to assist the plants, give weak liquid manure or a sprinkling cf good fertiliser at intervals of a fortnight. All runners as they appear must be removed so that tho energy of the plants is entirely devoted to producing strong crowns for the production of future flowers. With the call upon one’s time in the different parts of the garden there is a danger of forgetting to attend to (hose plants that will provide a spring display.