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GARDEN & FIELD

Colour In the Garden Borders and shrubberies have gained t wonderfully freshened appearance, due to recent welcome rain, and although many things aro past their freshness and beauty, there aro yet others to tako their places. Hydrangeas aro crowned from, tip to base with flower heads of every conceivable shade of pink to red, and from palo bluo to deepest bluo and mauve. One of the joys of these decorative plants is is thoir long period of blooming, and their attractiveness is doubly enhanced when facing the shady spots in the garden. Early - blooming tritomas (red - hot pokers) supply vivid splashes of colour, whilo the linst spikes of the showy cannas aro making . their appearance. Perennial phloxes are a feature of the borders in thoir many vivid and gorgeous shades. Near groups of darkleaved cannas one viows the glories of masses of bright gaillardias, together with spikes of handsome gladiolus and pentstemons. Among the annuals many lovely things aro noticeable —tho gay flowers of clarkias and godetias, the beautiful pink of the malopes, the vivid rose of the silenes and the pink, purplo and bluo of Canterbury bells. Pansies and violas have takon on a new lease of life and arc once more gaily blooming. Everlasting peas, nasturtiums and geraniums add their masses of colouring to tho scene, while the scent of lavender hovers over all. '-The madonna (Christmas) lilies are on the wane in most gardens, but lilium regale, with handsome satiny trumpets, exquisitely perfumed, aro among early January's treasures. In the moist spots of tho garden Japanese irises aro fading, but are being replaced by numerous dainty spikes of spirea, equally as attractive, and by many of the primula family, the lovely spikes of which vary in colourings from yellow to deepest orange and all shades of pink, crimson and purple. Where dahlias have been planted early the iirst blooms have already made their appearance, a wealth of buds giving promise of much joy to follow. Over the pergola clematic jackmanii spreads its beautiful clusters of purple.

Routine Work in the Borders Prepare beds for early flowering narcissi, and whilo the soil is friable prepare the trench for February's sowing of sweet peas. Snip off dead flowers and seed heads to prolong the flowering season of all plants. Where water is scarce, keep the soil in all beds well stirred with the hoc to prevent evaporation of soil moisture. .Mulches of litter or lawn clippings will prove of great assistance to such plants as lilium auratum, tiger and speoiosum lilies, cannas, dahlias, rhododendrons and all recently Aplantcd shrubs and roses. Keep a sharp watch over hollyhocks, violets and chrysanthemums for red ♦pidcr; frequent sprayings of water help to keep this enemy in cheek. Zinnias may be helped along with weak doses of liquid maruro as soon as the first buds have formed. Sow seeds of polyanthus, anemone and ranunculi. Take cuttings of aubretia, pinks, carnations and violas. Plant firmly in drills in sandy soil, shade from fierce sun and keep as evenly moist as possible. Cut back all plants that have finished blooming. Pruno and thin rambler roses as they go out of bloom. Stake tho dahlias before an unexpected galo does damage. From now on chrysanthemums will benefit from spreadings of a little rich soil around them, that from a compost heap being specially valuable. This should be done from time to time as the roots aro seen to fill it; tho roots are very near the surface and quickly feel the effects of drought. Sow seeds of calendula, Iceland poppy, primula malacoides, cineraria and wallflower for winter and early spring blooming. When staking micheaelmas daisies reduce the spikes to six, providing each one with a stake. By this method overcrowding is avoided, the plants havo a graceful appearance and the flowers arc twice as large. If delphiniums, pyre thrums and lupins are cut back immediately after blooming, a little manure worked in around them, and kept well watered, they will produce a second crop of bloom. Layer clematis by bending a strong shoot down to the ground. Cut half way through a joint, covering the cut portion with four or five inches of soil. Tho layer will take about two months to root, when it should be severed from the parent plant and potted up for the winter months. The Vegetable Garden Tomatoes now need every attention. Remove all side shoots in the axils of the leaves. Keep the plants confined to the one main stem. Leaves which overshadow green fruits should be cut half back to allow the sun to reach the fruits. Tap the stem of each plant occasionally, as this helps to dislodge the pollen, with a consequent better “setting” of the fruit. Place a mulch around the plants if water is not available through the dry months. Bust onion plants with a mixture of lime and sulphur while the dew is on them, to prevent fungus diseases. Whenever celery shows signs of ■blight, spray it with Bordeaux mixture. Continue to plant out winter greens, celery and leeks. Make another sowing of dwarf peas and beans.

Sow shorthorn carrots, swedes and turnips.

Sow fresh supplies of all salad plants in a moist, half-shady position. Bake down all plots finely while the soil is in a friable condition. Stir in a littlo blood and bone manure among the strawberries; this will help along tho autumn crop. Feed loganberries at this season, as besides fruiting they are producing the new wood for next season’s fruit. If nothing but artificial manure is at hand, fork it in around the roots and then water it well in, applying a surface

Specially written for the Times by “Lorna.”

mulch afterwards. As soon as the fruiting is over, cut out all tho old wood. Place a good mulch around tho raspberries. Tho New Lawn Tho present is an ideal timo to commence digging operations for tho new lawn. If tho site is wet, steps must be taken to drain it thoroughly before anything elso can bo done. A nico appearance will never bo gained on a site where the water lies in pools after a heavy rain. After roughly digging the ground it should bo hoed or raked down in order to allow all weed seeds to goiminatc. These crops should bo hoed as quickly as they appear, and by tho timo the lawn grass is Toady to go in the great majority of weed seeds in tho soil will havo been disposed of. Lawns may bo sown down at the latter end of February and in March, and will then get well started before frosts appear. Another point to remember is to sow tho seed thickly, and nothing but the best and cleanest of seed should be sown. 801 l tho plot very often to ensure firmness. On very poor ■soil lawns arc more of a problem. A depth of one foot of good soil is really necessary, whilo ISin. is naturally much better. Where the clay is heavy and close the hard pan should bo broken by sub-soiling, caro being taken that the clay is left at tho bottom and not mixed with the top soil. On very light soil it is necessary to add plenty of organic manure, rich in humus, with annual top-dressings of rotted manure sieved over tho surface. Annual autumn top-dressings of limo should bo given tho heavy clay soils. The lawn is'the foundation of the perfect garden and, as it is permanent, too much caro cannot be taken with its preparation, which should be thorough in every way. Tho expenditure of a few extra days’ labour will result in subsequent annual savings which will far outweigh the preliminary cost. A well-sown and wollkept lawn is the garden’s greatest asset.

The Rose Beds Bose borders arc now bereft of much of their beauty. This season they haye bloomed particularly well, and should now receive a little attention. If not already done, the bushes should be relieved of all spent blooms and tho flowering stems cut back to a strong bud' (about half way). Beccnt showers have given the plants the soaking that was needed, and now some quick-acting fertiliser is necessary to give them a renewed lease of life. Sulphato of ammonia is very good for this purpose and will be of added benefit if tho beds arc given a soaking of plain water first. Afterwards jdaee a mulch of decayed material from tho compost heap or a dressing of decayed lawn clippings over tho surface to keep tho root-run moist and to prevent drying winds from scorching up the surface. These little attentions will help immensely in the production of the second crop of bloom. Frequent hosings with water will keep green fly and red spider in check. Eremurus, or Fox-tail Lily Very seldom is this handsomo perennial seen in our gardens. In early summer its noble yet graceful spikes, ranging from six to ten feet in height, quickly arrest attention, the flowers growing similarly to those of tho delphinium and tritoma. The colours, too, aro delightful; some of the newer hybrids in soft shades of pink and yellow harmonise beautifully with many of the paler colour tones in early summer flowers. Eremurus robustus, the best known and one of tho finest, has pale rosy pink flowers which are seen to advantage against a background of trees or shrubs. Tho foliage is of that flax-like typo seen in tritomas and yuccas, but without the stiffness of the latter. All of them revel in deep, rich loam, and autumn is the best time to plant them, Plants for the Wild Garden. In many gardens there is a rough strip of ground, perhaps lying along the edge of a pond or stream, which ono would like to beautify without much labour being entailed in tho upkeep. The following plants will grow in such places and require no cultural care other than that of removing their dead flower stalks: Hemerocallis (day lilies) in variety, trollius (globe flowers), funkia sicboldii, giant thistles (grey foliaged), gunneras, iris sibirica, all kinds of flax and bamboo, and acanthus, while groupings o£ narcissi, may also be made. Tho golden and crimson barked (willows) aro useful as a background, intermingled with other shrubs such as berberis, cotoncasters, viburnums, prunus, etc. Hemerocallis Flava I wonder why this truly handsome day lily has not been brought to notice as a plant deserving of: naturalisation 1 ! It is without doubt ono of the handsomest hardy herbaceous plants known. Its large, clear yellow trumpets, something in tho way of lilium longiflorum, render it very conspicuous, and it is deliciously fragrant. It is very hardy, growing anywhere, but it is also an aquatic plant, growing to perfection in shallow water, and -where it is introduced it may Tcadily be imagined what effect masses of it would have on the margins of ditches, ponds and such places. Its abundant, drooping, flax-like foliage is also very ornamental. Tropaeolum Polyphyllum

Now that rock gardens aro becoming moro in evidence, many of the older and really beautiful trailing plants are being made much of. Among these is tropaeolum polyphyllum, which is splendidly adapted for trailing over a sunny bank or over a large rock. Although a native of Chile, it is ono of the Chilean plants that have proved hardy in the United Kingdom. This tropaeolum is a most distinct plant which sends out trailing branches thickly clothed with glaucous bluo foliage, and about November it commences to produce its canary yellow flowers in such profusion as almost to smother the plant. The flower is similar in shape to others of tho tropaeolum family. It loves a sandy soil and a sunny place is generally recommended for it, but it will,

however, bloonx well in shade. The plant produces tubers, and these aro planted some nine inches deep, and should for preference be planted in autumn.

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Bibliographic details

Manawatu Times, Volume LV, Issue 6746, 2 January 1932, Page 10

Word Count
1,988

GARDEN & FIELD Manawatu Times, Volume LV, Issue 6746, 2 January 1932, Page 10

GARDEN & FIELD Manawatu Times, Volume LV, Issue 6746, 2 January 1932, Page 10