SOME NOTES FOR ...WOMEN....

Manawatu Times, Volume LXV, Issue 788, 7 August 1909, Page 7

SOME NOTES FOR ...WOMEN....

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THE BURTHEN OF DRESS. There is a matter that I have heard dismissed of lata with incroaaing insistence from differeut points of view. It is an old saw with modem instaucas. Juvenal wrote in tiio lung ago that "Hero is magnificence at dress beyond thoir means, mid this show beyond what is necessary is now and again at tho expense of other.*, A common vice this." That 'Satire' might have been written in New Zealand to-day-and New Zealand is no worse than many other places, and there have been many satirists who have said nimilar things since Juvenal. Oiiceic, used to ho the men who whvo fops and dandies and wasted their snbstancß iu fine raiment. That is loss true now since men have virtually come down to uniform, but it is hicreasinglv true in these once quiot communities of girls and womeu, who a few years ago would have paid less than libit' for their clothes than they do uow. The-resnlt must be a continual bitter struggle to keep up a false standard of "appearances" that keeps girls and their parents impoverished and makes life hollow for many a one. Instead of having a little nest egg put hy.tlie girl who has to earn her living lives up to moro'than her wage, and tho father and mother are plunged into clobt to help show a good face to tho world. Or the girl to gain a little "pleasure" and keep pane with her companions, often cats of tho comfort and hope of her future. The tradesman, too, suffers from an increased proporiou of unpaid bills, and the pooplo who pay their bills have to pay for those who don't, when lie trie's to get baok on them with nu extra margin of profit.

' A GROWING EVIL. I am not writing now of the wealthy people who can afford to pay fancy priots for dross hut of people of moderate incomes who have' to uousider carefully how to make ends meet, aud of the inoreasiug number of girls who havo to face tlio world to earn their living in offioes.and Bhops, aud workrooms, in a place like Palniorstoii North. Not so very long ago a girl was satisfied with a pretty mußliu dress which might be as dainty as her taste would teach her to make it, and good plain cloth every day dresses. She would no more have thought of buying expensive silks and satins than ol looking for gold brooade. Now go to any of the numerous dances and entertainments here and yon will see that everyone is vieing with each other iu the expense of their dressing, I was told of one economic girl the other day who having been to three dances iu the one evening dress was admonished by a friend who apostrophised her as "a dowd" because she was going to wear it to a fourth. That girl's mother would have been perfectly happy with on? simple evening dress in a year, ami tluoveniu? dress then would havo cost just a fourth of what one does now. A girl can't get au evening (Irons made now for lest than seven guineas, and it may just as easily cost, her twelve to fifteen guineas. That is more than the girl would earn in a month or perhaps two months. Must it not therefore squeeze ';and crush the spirit of honesty and independence out of her, this always oppressive sense of the debt to Le met.

• THE ONLY INDEPENDENT WORKERS. It is coming to this that the only iudepondent workers aro tJuse iu domestic service. They, or a good pi'opottion of them, do save money. Their services are always iu demand and out of their £1 per week and k6ep they manage to have quite a snug postal' saving bank bnlauoe. Iu Wellington the other day a lady told me that she had keen planning a trip to Rotorna. "Ican't go now, though," she said, "for we can't afford it. It lies been such an pxppuflivo ye,'T," and iheushe addtod whim dually "Bat ciok is goiug instead." Doou with £1 per weak lircl actually saved £4O in the year, and was going to have a quiot holiday to Rotorua I She was going back to her phce baoause it wan mutually satisfactorily, but with that year's savings Fhe was quite independent and could have gone anywhere and been sure of falling into a fresh situation while hor mistresj (reputed well-to-do) simply hadn't a sparo sovoroip. Again iu Palmorstoo the oilier day I heard a similar Htory—the maid with a bank account, the family she was with keeping up appearances by an endlesi, and really hopeless stru glo. So much Imvo rlciuvtic expenses grown I really don't know whero it is going to eud fur the cases I have 'mentioned are typical of many others, and the girl who can turn out hor own frocks, and look well in th'(iu is becoming rarer evory day in spite of all the "teohnical. education" we hear about, When is .some reformor with the requisite position and independence of public opinion goiug to come to the rescue of lur sex by bringing about a simpler life?

A WOMAN'S CLUB, The "Pioneer Olub" w/hioh in to piouoor the cause of woman iu club laud has been successfully floated in Wellingoii as tlio r°sult of Hie advocacy of that clever lady journalist, Mrs Maekayj well-known as "Katrine." Mm Mackay is always a bright and interesting writer and wlipu elm wrote on the lifted for such a nifetiug-plaoo the idea wan influoiitinlly taken up, ami now the establishment has boon opened with great eciat by tl;o Mayoress (Mrs Newimiii). Among the executive are Mins Richmond (president), Mrs David Nathan and Mrs Fiudlay (vioe-prosideuts), Mrs Rankin Browne, Dr lionuett, Miss Helyer, Mrs Mackay (treasurer), Mies Isitt ("Domiuiua"), Mrs Wiuder, and Mrs Siilmnnd. The olub is housed iu a dainty suite of rooms which I am told are most artistic aod restful, and an Mies Riohmou said at file opening she believed "the club would be a factor iu improving the individual characters of members by the ennsrarit rubbing against and mixing with various other tt)ii>i'"rauieuts, which would uudoubt"'.!/ have a tendency to

round off corners,'' and the pr'osi dent s.iid further that the "seemingly inevitable" division of society into nnrzw ".sets" was a decidedly bud thing for women. There is no doubt about that, for it narrows their outlook ami atrophies their intelligence iu many cases whilo the freo intercom with womoii of brains in such a club as this ought to be vory helpful. No doubt the also inevitable "oat" will find lior way iu, but tho loavon of the broader minded will neutralise the harm or that "undesirable."

"ELIZABETH VISITS AMBHIOA." Elinor .Glyn's book giving "Elizabeth's" story of her experiences amongst tho New York "Foui Hundred" is attracting a good deal of attention on bnth »ides of the Atlantic, and tho result is that me authoiess' personality is buiug a ftood deal discussed. It wins that Mrs Glyn lives au unconventional existence at a clmrmiug country homo. Hnr husband's splendid family seat iihe has let because she won't entertain p?.ople she isn't interested in. Mrs ul'jn Jiersolf Ims built a dainty pavilion with a complete suite of living and working rooms on tho grounds of her husband's present abode. It is so constructed as to typify the seasons and most luxuriantly furnished, and here she writes her bocks. When she is at work no one, not even Mr Qljn, won Id venture to this pavilion, where the lady is waited upon by red-headed women -she says only red-headed people can understand her. There are two young daughtois, and their mother brings tlieui up to her own philosophy of lifo, which is very much that of the Freuoh aristocrats of the pre-revolution days. In faot Mrs Glyn looks with supreme contempt upon all who aro not aristocrats, aud especially upon tho English middle classes. Anyone under the rank of a noblemau is a "creature" in Elizabeth's philosophy. I am afraid tiiat if she came to Now Zealand she would liud that to associate with the "hereditary" aristocrats it would bo necessary to attend a rouseabouts' ball, or a meeting of tho Boots' Union. "Elizabeth"would appreciate to the full the feeling of the lady of the old regime who had only one rejnosfc to make to those who took her to the guillo-tmo-that she be given a rose to keep off "the scroll of the cemmou people."

THE PICTURES. To-night is to be, I beliovo, tlie last night of the Taylor-Oarrington Pictures hero as Mr Taylor is going to revive his dramatic company. The venture Ims been highly profitable nud Mr Taylor took tlio greatest pains to maintain a high standard with his piotnres. The production of the "effect*" which give so much "colour" to their shows is au art in itsolf. This is Miss Urrington's department, For instance, Palmerston has had quite a lot of the pictures immodiatfcly on airival before there is timo for'the effects lo be worked up, and last timo tliere was tlie Richard 111. set in whioh the druinuiors marched on ami your ear waa quite disappointed net to hearthe jirnms. itfto.rwardß the drums mid the difforence was most marked.

A grout number of special concert phonographs films from Chinese opera to trampot calls nro included in the thing') that ha?e to he carried, and tho. cloven pianist has much to do. Ordinary people would be ourprised at the iinmeu.se amount of trouble that has to he gone to. Another thing Mr Taylor does is lo "dramatise" Mb programmes and pictures so to speak, sometimes altering the sequence of soction? in films, cutting out uninteresting points and so on. They only keop their new films six weeks, Another splendid play spt of "The Morchant of Venioe" is pro-, mised for to-uigl)t and I would advise everyone to re-read their Shakespeare to-day before going.

JUTTINGS. The Savage Club is quite prolific in Indies nights this season. They opened with one, to-night thoro is to bo another, and tho Wellington bavages are going to come up and give a third. Tho one to-night is by way of "trying it on the dog" that is liow a member most rudely pnt it. It seems that the programme for the Wellington visit has ken rehearsed in various m mbfrs' housos. Soirio one suggested that (hey should try it on the ladies and if they survived it might be safe to go *n Wellington and that is what is to be done tonight That, of course is the "Savages':!" own way of putting it, the way they put it when the "Toa" is wearing his tooth necklace. Really, I am told, that it is a splondid programme- that has boon prepared, full of fun and local hits and very well worth soeing,

Mr Frederick Moves of the"Nollie Stewart" combination Is said to be a topical Englishman. His first appearance on the stage was in Loudon with Mr Julius Knight a± the Olympiu Theatre. Mr Moyes lias played Napoleon, the charaoter Mr Knight played. He was the French hero for fivo years aud oreated tho part of Napoleon in "Tho Dunhess of Daulzio," Not wishing to bo thought a one man pait actor he "got out" and played anything juiit to prove ho oonld do something else. He is a groat believer in make-up. Speaking of tho stago in England, he sajs it is beooming a mania for Indies to drive up to George Alexander's theatre in their carriages "Jnfifc to walk on." Men do the eamo thing. They never mean to really learn to act—they regard it merely as a paslimo. The consequent was a lower standard in acting, while to those who had to earn thfir living on tlio stage it was .serious, an salurieß wern r< ilnccd. Mr Moyes takes the part of Col Villfars in "Sweot Kitty flcllairs,"|aiid i ord Jeffries in "Svtcoj Nell of tin Dairy,"

Splendid progress is being wade with the pioparations for the Jovmiilo Bull in aid of tho Old Men's Homo Fond. Support oontiuues to pour in on Mrs Wood iu connection with it and tho rehearsals of tho children aro really emertaiunients in themselves. Fancy 300 of them to rehearse iu the Zealaudla Hall this afternoon! And it is not only tlw:o big roiihearsaKtlie Wednesday afternoon one is for little ones of eight and under, and today's tnr all ages), bnt there are p' 1 - iug on in private houses under \\\<\ clever volunteer fcuaohers, smaller

classes for special dances, I have heard of the "Butterfly," "Washerwouiau," and of hoi* seis, and there are bound lo be a great many Kpecial sets a« well, There is uo doubc that it wili "bcom." To-day's rehearsal is at 2.30 p.m.

Miss Nellie Stewart has ben called upou to pay the penalty of her remarkable popularity, for just prior to her departure from Melbourno for Sydney she was besieged with applications for her autograph. On one day alone she signed 250 photographs of herself for her well-wishers aud admiiers.

Apropos of Paluierfiton dauces I have often heard people eay how particularly good the'music at the dances is here. It has always struck mo iu the same way, and that it is better than even in the larger cities, and as good as the very bast In the big cities. A lady who has heard the best dance bands in Eugland and America told me this weok that she never heard anything better than Hnuloj'sßand that she had heard here, aud that sho would rather dance to it than to some of tho world famous "Hungarian" bauds that are so much talked of in London and New York ball rooms. She wondered at moh a baud bpiug found he r e. Certainly the chief sneoess of a ball depends largely ou the quality of the music. It was a striking, and a well deserved compliment to Mr Hauley and his confreres,

Ail Saints' Ladies' Guild has undertaken a sale of work, togotlier with competitions and lume industries n oouneotiou with the chnroh funds to tako plaeo on November 24th, Mrs Liouel Abraham is the lion. seo. and an euergetio committee is determined to make the affair a signal success.

Mr Laughorne Bdtton, one of the new members of the Nellie btowart Company left; tlie load iu the English prodnotiou of "The Flag Lioutenant" to oome to Australia. He is regarded as cue of the most promising actors of the day, dnd amougst his many successes are "Monsieur Beancaire" and "Brigadier Gerard." Mr Burton is the "Lord Verney" in "Sweet Kitty Bellairs."

Tlie Ladies Guild of St. Andrew's Chinch gave a pleasant tea in the ohuvoh hall on Tuesday aftornoou to the ladies of .the congregation, An exoeediugly sociable time was spent. The happy idea was muoh appreciated by all concarned.

Most women will hope that the Mayor will reconsider his decision about the trams and not wait two years before making a move I think "Electric" is quite right that thoro ought r,o have been trams bofore now. Look whsfrit would mean to bo able to get about by tram in this weather, and the convenience for theatres and the like at night would be immense. It is one of the drawbacks of the town that, whjle its distances are considerable, the convenience of tram lines is denied it.

I am told that Miss Powell, who is going to lecture on Monday evening on "Girls and their Lovers" is a humorous aud ready speaker. She has delivered this lecture iu various towns and it is said to have proved a strong "draw."

Mr Claude King, who makeß his first appearance in New Zealand with tho new Nellie Stewart Company, was intended by his parents to be an artist, but when he was twenty-cue lie wan left to his own resources and lie had to turn to a more p'rofitible way of earning money for a living. Ho had taken part in amateur theatrioalsj and decided to embrace the profession for better or worse. He started work at twenty-five shillings per' week "palling baskets about, aud in fact doing anythiUß" as he put it. He soon made progress, however, and started in a series oi plays. He then toured England with Mrs Patrick Campbell, while tho profession has enabled him to travel to every portion of tho world' whore the English language is (Token, his visit to New Zealand competing the oironit. Mr King takes the role of Sir Jasper Staudish in "Sweet Kitty Ballaiis" and Kiug Oharleß.'in "Sweet Nell of OldDrury." Miss Rceslyu Vayne, ono of the most prominent members of the Nellie Stewart Company, is one of the latest arrivals from England for the J. C. Williamson management. She is of Austrian desoeut, born in- England. Miss Vfiyne is a musician, and draws and paints; she is aho a fancier of dogs.

Apropcs of what I liavo to say abovo about tho expense tf dress -to girls now-a-days, has it nwer 'occurred to tho cir'ls who cannot make a diess for thomselvos how very groat are their advantages over their grand mothers, and yet how much better those dear old ladies did for themsolves when they were girls? In those days all sewing had to be laboriously done by hand, and tnpk ever so 10-jg. Now, a first-class sewing macihue enormously saves labour and in skilled hands is capable-of wonderß, I .was looking at one of the latosfc Wertlieims in Mr J. P. Leary's thiß week, and really the maohiue was uncanny in its adaptability (o every kind of work from the stitching of coarse tioking to the embroidery of the most delicate fabrics, yet it was all so simply adjusted aud arranged that any girl with common sense and average intelligence would be able to work it to advantage. I was 'inclined to folly agree with some one who once said that the sowing maohiuo was the greatest invention of the age,

Miss Marjorie Oliard is the youngest niomber of the "Nellie Stewart" Oompuny. She is the daughter of "the beautiful Kate Oliard" who old phtygoers will tell you won all hearts in Australasia in comio opera as loug ago as 1883. Mien Nollio Stewart loug wanted to appear as ouo of Shakespeare's heroines. This ambitiou was realised iu Sydnoy recently, when she «p----pnaied very successfully as "Kosaliud" in "As yon like it." It is a great pity she Is not going to play it here. The management 'had an idea that Shakospdare would not go down in Palmeiston, bat I am aora it would draw splendidly here, as Palmerston never gets it ontsiile of a picture show. It is to he pot on during the Wellington fensou.