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GARDEN NOTES

THE FLOWER GARDEN. To induce stocks to flower in £lio winter time it is important to sow uie seeds at once. The early sown seeds produce the best plants. One of the best varieties to sow now is that known as "Giant Imperial," which are superior to any other varieties for winter blooms and long flowering. Because of their branching habit it is possible to cut good trusses for vases and other work. When preparing the soil use plenty of lime in it. Unless lime is used the colours will be poor. At this time of the year the seed can be sown where the plants are to grow and flower. All that is necessary is to work the surface of the bed to a fine tilth and to sow the seed in drills. The plants can be thinned out when they are largo enough to handle and the thinnings boxed up for other beds. Iceland poppy seed is very fine, but they arc vigorous, and when the conditions are suitable they will grow strongly. The best method is to raise the seeds under cover and when they are pricked out to shade them with scrim or something light until they begin to grow. Never allow the young plants to dry out. Some growers are in favour of germinating the seed in the dark and threw a wet • sack over the box and remove it as soon as the seeds begin to germinate. Aster seed will grow well if it is sown in the open ground now and the young plants thinned out as soon as they arc large enough. The . soil, for them must bo clean and fresh and as far away as possible from whore they havo been grown before. Marigolds arc good subjects for hot dry corners in the garden, but if you are planting them out give the piece of ground £ good working a day or two before doing the work. They will not require any further watering but the ground must be kept well hoed. Zinnias, petunias, and salvias are growing well now, and the main thing is to keep the soil round the plants free by frequent hoeings. Those arc all good autumn flowers and arc worth taking care of. Chrysanthemum plants will bo found to be making their break-buds and if the plants arc growing strongly they can be out down and allowed to make fresh growths, which in time will make fresh shools and the new bud is called the first crown. This bud is useless for flowers and must be pinched out and a shoot allowed to grow, which about the first week in February will show another bud called the second crown, and this is the bud that is kept to -Inake good blooms for show purposes. When well treated these plants will run true to the above in nine cases out of ten. Never work the soil deeply around chrysanthemums; they are shallow rooting.

DAHLIAS.

Dahlias arc being largely grown (.his year and nc have been asked to give some details' of the treatment required. During the early growth of the plants keep the hoc or cultivator going to allow the air to got into the soil until the buds appear, then less hoeing will be required. If large blooms are wanted liquid manure can be used freely. Plants that grow at. the same rate as dahlias are liable to deplete the soil of nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash, and if these things ran be got as artificial manures then they can be used at the rate of about half an ounce per plant. It is not necessary to use them mor«i heavily than this. A _ little often is much better than one big dose. In the case of large blooms being grown for exhibition water will be required if the weather becomes dry. A gentle spraying over the top of the plant, in a hot evening will help. When you have made your choice of the bud you are going to keep remove the others round it and also the two lots of laterals below it. As tlie flowers develop it will bo necessary to sec that the flower is carefully tied up to a stake that will help to carry the weight of the bloom. QUESTIONS.

"Amateur" wishes to know when to apply spray on black currants, etc. "Our informant says that the spray could bo used now as the beetles are still active, but the spray must bo used before the beetles get active which is about the end of October and again in November. Two sprayings at night time should be enough. "Beans" says: "I left my runner beans in tho ground as advised in a former letter, but they have failed to grow this season. There are sixty plants in the row and only two arc growing. Can you tell mo why this is?" Wet ground may have rooted the plants during the winter and it would be a good plan to investigate and find out. It is not too -late to replant the row with fresh seed. If the trouble has not been due to the wet, it mav be due to grubs of some kind and the soil should have a good liming. It is very seldom that these beans fail to grow again. "Sweet Peas" says: "Please give me the correct time to sow sweet peas for spring blooming. I do not know anything about gardening'' and would like some help in the work." There arc two types of sweet peas; the so-called winter flowering varieties can be sown now in a well sheltered part of the garden. The soil should be deeply dug and some well decayed -manure worked into tho lower parts". Give the surface a good liming and do not sow thickly. Each plant should have at least a foot of soil to grow in. Place nice twiggy sticks in place for the plants to climb up. The summer blooming varieties are sown in April. They can bo cither started in pots or boxes and | the latter arc transplanted to their permanent quarters when they arc large enough. Tho ground must be deeply dug and provision made to let. the surplus water get away in the winter. This variety is a taller grower than tho other and will require taller _ sticks than the winter flowering varieties. It is a good plan to chip a little of the skin off the end before sowing. Chip tho seed on the opposite side to the germ, and sow in moist soil. Do not water too much. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. There is a lot of work to be done in the garden in the way of removing spent crops and working up any soil that may be freed. There is nothing that spoil* tho soil sooner than to have unwanted crops growing and they are often sources of disease. Having removed all the stuff dig and manure the soil in readiness for another crop. In the case of tho cabbage patch give the soil a good dressing of lime. Soil where cabbages have been growing can bo used for celery, celeriae, leeks, or any p'.ant that is removed from tho same tribe as cabbages. Pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers will receive a lot of hejp from liquid manure which can bo given two or three times a week. Do not give the liquid manure strong at first, but break it down by using one gallon of tho liquid manure to two gallons of water. Looks can bo planted out at any time now and the plantings can be continued for the next two months. Celery and celeriae can also bo planted, but the ground must be well manured before they are put in. Silver, beet seed sown now will make good plants for the winter when plants are wanted for greens. The carrot is a most useful vegetable and should it bo needed mako a considerable sowing now and tho thinnings can be used for soups and stews. The rest can be left in the soil for winter use. Swede turnips can be sown now in well worked soil. Thin the plants to about six inches apart and keep tho ground well worked, if you have any fowl manure sprinkle a little on tho soil between the rows. Thorough preparation of the soil plays a most important part in vegetable culture. The principal aims of the gardener should be to grow his vegetables without giving them a check of any kind. Plants that are growing in a nursery bed when they are ready for planting out will be receiving a check, and many of them will not recover. Rotation of crops is another important point in vegetable culture. Never plant the same crop in ground it has been harvested from. Cabbages and cauliflowers will do well in soil where potatoes have been grown, but more manure should be added before planting is done.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/MS19421224.2.86

Bibliographic details

Manawatu Standard, Volume LXIII, Issue 22, 24 December 1942, Page 6

Word Count
1,502

GARDEN NOTES Manawatu Standard, Volume LXIII, Issue 22, 24 December 1942, Page 6

GARDEN NOTES Manawatu Standard, Volume LXIII, Issue 22, 24 December 1942, Page 6