THE GARDEN

Manawatu Standard, Volume LIX, Issue 220, 17 August 1939, Page 15

THE GARDEN

THE FLOWER GARDEN. All beds and borders of spring flowering bulbs and plants should be forked or hoed over to open up the soil and allow the air to enter. If this work is done when the ground is moist, avoid walking on the worked part as much as possible and remove all the weeds that oau be 'picked up. A dusting of some helping manure in the case of polyantha primroses is a good thing. It will help the plants to grow longer stems and gives them more vigour generally. Fish manure is good, but blood and bone dusted along between the rows and worked in will give good results. As soon as the rose beds have been pruned, and the cuttings cleared away and burnt, these should be top-dressed with" some' well-rotted manure. We do not believe that anything is to be gained by leaving the manure on the surface at this time of the year, as may be done iu the hotter part of the year in some cases. When top-dressing is done now lightly fork the manure below the surface, where the soil will keep it moist and the bacteria will get to work on it and carry the plant food down to the roots. When manure is left on the surface it dries out, and most of its value goes away into the air, but cover it up ever so lightly and the soil will absorb anything that gets freed from the manure and will hold it in suspension for use. When working out the number of plants required for bedding purposes always include a few novelties of various kinds. Some of them may not turn out to be any better than similar varieties that you have grown in days gone by, but at the same time you may find something really worth while. Last season we saw a bed of antirrhinums than had been planted, and part of the bed was of a new variety with individual flowers twice the size of the - ordinary ones, and a splendid colour. Unfortunately, the name had been lost, but the grower said he would try to find out and let us know. Some of his new calendulas were very good, hut they were grown from a mixed packet of novelties so, of course, were not named. Some very line pansies were grown early last season. They were Knglemane Giants. Novelties are always worth a trial, hut we do not advise largo plantings of them at any time, because soil and other conditions have a decided influence on them. Some of tile new things we- have seen offered are: Ageratum lied Hiding Hood, which should appeal to those who want to get away from the blue. Cosmos Sensation, a new crimson, was reported to us- from England as having flowers five inches across with broad, heavily fluted petals on long stems. Our informant says they are bushy and 3tt in height, and extra large blooms can he grown by disbudding. He also mentioned a scented columbine, white with a splash of pink.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The plants 'from which show blooms are to he grown should be strong enough and well enough rooted to he planted out m three-jnch pots. Plant them firmly when potting up, and as soon as they begin to take hold ol the soil put' them out in the open, where they can enjoy lull sunshine. As soon as they begin to grow begin making the now bed they arc to he planted in, It does not require deep working, because these plants are shallow rooters, but they should never be grown in the same soil year after year. If the old bed is the only available place, take the soil out eighteen inches and a loot in depth, and replace it with fresh, turfy soil if you can get any. Uhl growers would rather have this kind of soil than any other for growing their plants in. it is better if it has been stacked for a while, but fresh, clean soil of any kind is better than using old soil. 'Those who prelcr growing the plants in pots use a mixture of their own, and every grower has his own mixture which he says is the best in the world. The main thing is firm planting with some charcoal mixed into the soil to keep it sweet, and ample drainage in the bottom of the pot to let the surplus water away. They ure moved from pot to pot until they reach size eight or ton inches, where they are allowed to flower. QUESTIONS. “13. D.” says: “I see that you invite questions, so would you answer the following for me? 1 am a novice, with a rather light soil. Last year 1 planted twelvo roses with plenty of sheep manure worked into the ground. They all began to grow well, hut four of them turned yellow and died later on. 1 would like to know the cause. My sist’er planted the same dozen and all of hers are growing. I am planting some more this season, and you may be able to help me.” There are several tilings 'which may cause failures, blit

they are generally due to inexperience 011 the part of the grower. The principal causes are: (1) Loose or deep planting. (2) Using excessive manure at planting time. (3) Too much water. (-1) Allowing the roots to dry out too much after they have been unpacked. ! 1(0) A heavy frost immediately after planting. (0) Acid soil conditions due to

failure to use lime in eoil prparations. (7) Lack of drainage, causing sodden, sour soil. You will know from the iabovo which condition affects you I most. Wo would think that it is pos(sibly No. 2, the roots cornin'; in contact with fresh manure when they j were planted or before they could get growing properly. Knowing something I about your soil, wo are inclined to pass over excessive watering, also acid conditions due to want of drainage. I Your land, we. believe, is papa country, iand there should be enough lime in it to make the soil sweet enough. A great deal of work has been done 1 lately in America on the question of lime in the soil for rose growing, and it has been found that they will grow as well or better in-a neutral soil than in a soil that has an excess of lime. On the other hand, a sour or acid soil will do them no good and they will often peter out and die. It lias been found that an acid soil will often cause mildew badly in the plants, and other diseases that follow are scale insects and die back.

| “Vegetables” says: “Last season wo I planted peas in our garden and the .plants grew to about six inches or Iso, and began to turn black. This was j for the early crop; later on wo planted more in another part of the garden from another packet of seed, and they f did a little better, hut the crop was 1 poor. Can you tell us what to do to get a crop?” Jt is hard to say what j was the cause of the failure, but it was probably due to lack of sufficient food in the ground. Try again by manuring the soil when digging it and then, when the drill is open to receive the seed, give it a good dusting of lime and sow the seed oil this and cover up. As soon as the plants come through the ground dust sulphate, of potash along the rows and hoo it in; an ounce of sulphate of potash per yard of ■ row should be enough. The failure may have been due to want of drainage, and you can determine if this was so. •

. Notes are published under this heading, and readers interested in gardening are incited to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice; answers will be published with the weekly notes.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. From now on is a busy time in the vegetable garden, and whenever the weather and the soil are dry enough to get on with the work push on with whatever has to be done. Setting out onion plants is one of the most important things to do, and the earlier these can be got in the better. For Anions the soil should be in good heart and deeply dug. Work the surface into a good tilth and set the plants out in rows at least a loot apart, and the plants from five to six inches apart in the rows. It is not necessary or desirable to put them in too deeply. Cover their roots to the base of the plant and even if they lie over for a while they will soon straighten up. IF slugs are troublesome dust the lied with slaked lime after dusk, if this is done every evening for a week you will soon get rid of the trouble. When making a sowing of carrot seed work the surface up well and choose a line day, when the surlace is dry. Carrot seed sown in wet soil seldom does any good. For this early sowing only put in a few. 'the mam crop is better when it is sown about October.

We are not in favour of wasting time sowing parsnips at this time of the year. They arc for use in the winter, and if ’they are sown in October they will be quite early enough. A row of red beet will come on before the main crop is ready it it is sown now. A little salt dusted along the row will help these plans considerably. One gardener told us that ho found sea sand a splendid thing to use for sowing the seed in or covering it when in tiie drills. Silver beet can he treated in the same way, but it one has plenty of cabbages coining on now it would be better to sow the silver beet later so that it can be used in tiie winter or early spring. 11)1011 sown about February it does not come to seed very early in tiie spring. Turnip seed can also he sown in small quantities every fortnight or so to provide tor a succession. When too many are sown at 011 c time most of tihem get wasted. Riant out cabbages and cauliflowers in good, 'rich soil, and when they begin to make growth a dusting of finely ground-up nitrate of soda will help considerably. Our Covent Garden correspondent says that vegetable-growers in England give their cabbages and lettuces a dose of nitrate of soda 24 to 36 hours before the heads are cut for market, as they have found that this keeps them nice and crisp lor market purposes. We have not tried this on cabbages, hut liavc found that it acts very well on celery plants, and those who have tried it. say that it adds to tiie nutty flavour.

SOILS FOR VEGETABLES. “A Novice” says: ‘‘Wo are new gardeners and would like you to give a list of tiie vegetables that would he most useful to small gardens, and the best kind of soil to grow them in. We want something we could cut out and keep for reference. AI y neighbours areas keen as I am and we appreciate the help we get from the Garden Notes.” AYe think it is probably a good plan and shall try. to give short notes with each and tiie time to plant. Artichokes.—Riant tubers in August; tiie soil need not be very rich, hut should be deeply dug. Asparagus. The soil should he deeply dug and manured and the young plants can be set out in September. Do not pick or out tiie produce the first year. Broad Beans.—Any soil will suit them as long as it l is well drained. They like plenty of lime in tiie soil. Sow seed at any time from AI ay until August. French beans: AVell-worked soil, well-drained; sow after the first week in October and use lime in the drills when putting the seed in. Set the seeds six' to eight inches apart. Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts: Sow seed in October, and plant out in wellmanured ground before Christmas. Never plant where a similar crop lias been grown. - Cabbage and Cauliflowers. Set plants out in fresh soil now. They like plenty of lime in the soil. Carrots: Sow in August for ail early crop, and again in October for main crop. No manure must he used, but if the soil has been manured for a previous crop it will be quite right. Celery: Sow seed in boxes under glass in September, and prick the plants out into other boxes, and when largo enough plant out into well-manured, trenches. Mustard and cress: Can he sown at

any time and is a splendid tiling for sandwiches; as it grows very quickly it should be sown in succession to keep up the supply. Sweet Corn: Sow seed in November and thin the plants out to eighteen inches apart. Keep the soil well worked round the plants. Cucumber: The seed should bo sown in boxes or pots in November and the plants set out wiicn ready in good, well-manured soil.

Looks.—Sow seed in September in well-manured soil, and again in October for a succession. Plant out in November, December and January in well-manured ground. For ordinary household purposes plant in deep hole on the flat. Lettuce Sow seeds m the open ground that has boon wellmanured. Plant out plants that have been raised in boxes during the winter. Plenty of good, strawy manure should be used, and in dry weather plenty of water. Onions.—Seed can be sown in August or April; the latter sowing is for plants tq set out in the early spring. Thin out spring-sown onions as soon as they are large enough to handle. Parsley.—Sow in any kind of soil that has been well manured in August, and thin out the plants to a foot apart. Parsnips: Sow the seed in wellworked, deep soil in October, and thin the plants out to five or six inches apart. Keep the soil clean until the tops meet. Pumpkins: Sow the seed in pots or boxes in October and plant cut in well-manured mounds when the soil gets warmer in November. Marrows conic under the same heading. Potatoes can he planted at any time from August onward until Christmas time. For early crops stable manure is the best to use, and the sots can he put on top or underneath, whichever you like. Pens: Seed can he sown every fortnight from July onwards until the end of January. Use plenty of lime in the drills and a little sulphate of potash when they come up.

Rhubarb.—Tt is grown in permanent beds, which should ho heavily manured, hut have the manure out of the way of the roots when they first put out. The stalks should not he cut or pulled the first year. Radish: liglit, rich soil suits them very well; the seed can he sown ,in succession from August Onwards. Spinach.—A deep, rich soil; sow the summer variety in August and for succession until December. The winter

variety can he sown in March or April. Silver Beet: Sow in good soil in August or September for summer use, and again in February or March for winter and early spring use. Turnips.—Sow the seed in August and continue until October, sowing in succession. Winter varieties can be sown in February, March and April. Tomatoes: The seed can ho sown in boxes under glass in September and the plants pricked out into other boxes and well hardened off before they are put out in the open ground in November. They do not require very rich ground. i