EVEREST PARTY

Manawatu Standard, Volume LVIII, Issue 177, 27 June 1938, Page 9

EVEREST PARTY

SNOW PREVENTS ATTEMPT. ROUTE DANGEROUS. AVALANCHE SWEEPS DOWN. (United Press Association—By Electric Telegraph.—Copyright.) (Times Cables.) Received June 27, 12.5 p.m. LONDON, June 26. The Times publishes a copyright letter from Mr H. W. Tilman, leader of the Everest expedition, written on May 20 from Camp 3, stating that there was too much snow on the North Gol to enable an immediate attempt to bo made on the mountain.

“It may clear,” the letter states, “in the course of a few days, but the usual wind is entirely absent, which is rather disturbing. However, the party on the North Col will push on to Camp 5 to ascertain whether the snow precludes an attempt.” Another member of the expedition, in a letter written on May 28, says that the monsoon broke five or six weeks before the normal time, after which the mountain was plastered by successive snowfalls, making it impossible to ascend. “The route to the North Col has become infernally dangerous,” he says, “owing to an immense crevasse and an avalanche distributing icebloeks tlie size of cottages' into the crevasse. It had already swept down on Mr Tilnian’s party and they were very lucky to escape from disaster. Camp 4 has been established at the North Col, but has not been occupied owing to the powdering snow which is waist deep. It is doubtful if. under the weather conditions, an ascent is possible on the west route, which Messrs Shipton and Smythe are reconnoitring. The chances of success are now a thousand to one against.”