FASHIONS OF PAST

Manawatu Standard, Volume LVII, Issue 305, 24 November 1937, Page 2

FASHIONS OF PAST

FRILLS AND FURBELOWS. JUBILEE WINDOW DISPLAYS. What docs the City’s Jubilee mean to residents? It is the linking of the past with the present, and the C.M • Boss Co., Ltd., liave used their natural medium of fashions to express this. In one of their large windows are to be seen the bride of the Victorian era in her lovely frock of satin arid lace, contrasting with the bride of today in her streamline frock. Displayed in another part of the window is another bridal frock of long ago which, because of its tiny waist measurements, could not be put on a wax figure. Another creation which attracts attention is a costume of over 60 years ago, made of bright blue twotoned striped taffeta, heavily fringed. Also to be seen are quaint bodices, beaded and with little frills of lace, in black, for more sombre wear and in cream, when in lighter mood ; a heavy black silk dress, cloak and bodice, beautifully made, elaborate trimmings of lace and much beaded, made by Madame L. Denis, a Court dressmaker, who lived in 10 Old Cavendish Street, London. There are seen in this jubilee display of fashion through the ages the crinoline, the bustle frock, the leg-o’-mutton sleeve, the 'flowing trains, the pinched waistlines, frills, furbelows, the feathers and the laces of the lady of the past. Miss 1937 would possibly not appreciate these garments so inhibiting to these days of swift action, but Jhough not appreciating or being envious of them as a fashion, one and all recognise that these fashions of the Victorian era gave a wonderful dignity, poise and stateliness of bearing. QUAINT ACCESSORIES.

Not only fashions of dress are displayed, but the quaint accessories of the past—rtlie little silk'parasol, the embroidered collars, a 4 beaded handbag, supposed to have been made by the ladies of Lady Elfreda, who was King Alfred’s daughter, and the clasp is supposed to have been wrought by hand by the monks of Glastonbury; an old veil worn by the Countess of Gosford, lady-in-waiting to. Queen Alexandra, when she was driving in coach and four. One can picture the spirited horses, the picturesque coachmen and the dignified ladies. A vivid picture of the homes of these people of the past is also created 'in the mind as one views tapestry firescreens which the ladies of long ago used to prevent the glow of the fire from harming their complexions; the ancient cantle-'sticks of 120 years ago; the works of art in the photographic and miniature section; the wonderfully worked household linens which speak of great pride at home. It is when one sees this beautiful handwork that it is realised that though the girl of the past was not admitted in the many fields of sport and pleasure that she is to-day, she did not waste her time, but used her energy and leisure to the creating of things of beauty which are the treasured heirlooms of to-day. Of special interest are embroidered calico cloths, purchased during the year 1895, which have been in constant use and still bear the hallmark of quality and endurance.

FUNDAMENTALS UNCHANGED. Tile window is not given to women alone, one sees the lashions of the men of the past also and, in their way they have changed in equal degree to those of the women. A photograph o.f the original “Youth’s Institute” is of particular interest, and convinces us that though the surface things such as fashion change, the fundamental necessities, such as club life for boys, remain unchanged. This institute would be the forerunner of to-day’s Y.M.C.A. Old photographs, a unique pinch-beck watch, faded miniatures painted on horn over 200 years old, framed pictures, embroidered on paper, approximately 200 years ago, a heavily chased coffee percolator, a quaint cake stand, a glass slipper said to be worn by a lady, a photograph printed on china, ornaments, snuff-box, a family group of an early pioneer family who settled in this district some 60 years ago, a life-likb picture of the late Mr C. M. Ross, and the building from which the present business developed—all these relics of the past teem with interest and speak vividly of the past and a pioneer family who, through their vision, courage and sacrifice have handed to the present generation a town of prosperity and one which is taking its place in the life of the nation of New Zealand. We realise the true greatness of our ancestors when we view beautiful lithograph in the llosco lounge showing the site of the town of Wellington and adjacent country made during Colonel Wakefield’s survey about 1839, which, though barren of life, speaks of possibilities which have been realised through the years. The achievement of these dreams of former generations is revealed in the aerial views alongside' the lithograph. Lent by the Union Steam Ship Company, through Messrs M. A. Eliott, Ltd., is a £3OOO model of the Awatea, their trans-Tasman '■ twin-screw liner of 13,482 tons, whose engines develop 22.000 liorse-power, is also shown. This is contrasted with a picture of the company’s old steamer-barque Te Anau, the crack inter-colonial vessel of 60 years ago. There is the latest aerial picture, on exhibition for the first time, of the Wellington Harbour, and another of the port 60 years ago, showing the sailing vessels and an early type steamer then engaged in the New Zealand trade. VACILLATING WHIMS.

Dame Fashion was in lavish mood in 1877, as Messrs Collinson and Cunninghame, Ltd., portray in their attractive window display “Time Marches On,” but fashion is vacillating in her whims and it is remarkable that tb-day heavily draped skirts are as popular as they were in the heyday of the Victorian period of half-a-century ago. The purple taffeta evening gown showp, representative of those days, with ip. big floral spray, would noi be outlandish in a modern ballroom. True, the neck-line wa6 cut lower in the ’seventies, but a stylish evening frock of the present mode would have some very similar features to that of fifty years ago. Then, a pendant coyly suspended on a black velvet ribbon swung from the neck. To-day, this same striking effect is secured by a string of pearls or brilliants.

Rose chiffon taffeta was in vogue in 1907, and there is on display at Messrs. Collinson and Cunninghame’s what would have been a modish evening gown for those days, with its narrow waist-line, Honiton silk lace trimmings full to the neck, and trailing skirts which swept the floor. Cameos had then displaced pendants for ornamentation. Contrasting with these two fashions is the street and bridge frock style of 1937, shown in this instance in green crepe, with narrow diamante belt. Slightly severe, yet smart and elegant, it has a slimming effect on the figure. Changes of fashion in their year-to-year trends are depicted pictorially in the display, which contains numerous photographs indicating the progress made on : parallel lines by Palmerston North. .