THE GARDEN.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LVI, Issue 182, 3 July 1936, Page 15

THE GARDEN.

Notes are published under this hi dening are invited to send in questio: they wish expert advice; answers wil.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

We have received several letters dealing with the shortage of flowers and suggesting remedies which are more or less practicable. The shortage is more or less due to the weather experienced earlier in the season and all are agreed on this part of the subject. One thing about the matter is the fact that flowers are playing a larger part in our lives, and the loss of them even for a

short period is felt by people in every walk of life. It is too late now even to try and remedy the deficiency for this season, but there is no reason why we cannot in the future give more thought to the cultivation of plants that will be suitable for winter blooming.

One gardener says: “I have a large bush of laurestums in my garden which has been in bloom for two or three weeks now, and its flowers have been used for several purposes. There are few shrubs that can be used for providing winter flowers, but Erica Melanthera and E. Wilmoriana are both useful; though the hitter must be protected from the frosts.”

From time to time we have advocated planting Iceland poppies as most useful winter flowering plants, and judging from the displays of these beautiful flowers to bo seen ill florists’ windows many hundreds of them must have been planted at the right time. To have them flowering now the seed must be sown in January' or February and the plants must be attended to in the way of growth and cultivation. Anemones do not usually begin to flower until about August and even then one would require a lot of plants for a few blooms. Some of the early flowering varieties of narcissi are coming out now and we think the shortage will soon be over and forgotten.

Next sgasou gardeners may begin to make provision for a supply. One gardener says her helebores are quite a mouth late. They were moved last season and we think that accounts for the trouble. During the last few weeks gardeners have had a good chance to push on with the work of planting all kinds of shrubs and many are still making alterations to their grounds. However, the sooner this work can •be finished the better it will bo for the plants. Keep the soil well stirred up amongst daffodils and all kinds of bulbs and tubers, but when doing so he careful not to destroy any of the leaves of the daffodils. Many of the later flowering ones are only just below the surface and it is very easy to cut them off without noticing it.

Such shrubs as rhododendrons and azaleas should be cleaned up now, nd if you can get some well-rotted manure give the plants a dressing of this and lightly fork it into the soil. These plants are largely surface feeders, but they do not appreciate a lot of fresh manure; some old rotten stuff, like old cucumber or hotbeds that is well rotted, is the best you can' give them at this time of the year. It is very difficult to grow any of these plants in a mixed border. It would be better to give them a space to themselves, and then you can treat it without using lime which many of them do not like. There are a few rhododendrons that will grow on limed soil, but they are not the usual varieties found in our gardens. QUESTIONS. “Anxious” says: “I believe that it is possible to flower daffodils growing in an open border by putting a cover over them. Can you tell me anything about it? I have a rather line collection and my friends told me last season that 1 should have shown some of thero-r I have never exhibited and feel I should like to trv. I would also like to know when to prune my roses. I have a nice, large bed and there are four climb-

ading, and readers interested in garis relating to matters’ upon which be published with the weekly notes.

Icrs growing alongside on a fence I which have become rather tangled. (Your help will be much appreciated.” I It is easy enough to put up a frame over a bed of daffodils and i covering menus , to a certain extent [that they will be protected from sudden storms which come on about the I time the show blooms begin to open. The most important tiling is the ' amount you wish to spend on the work, because to make a good cover you want something that will keep the water out. Scrim is and another thing about it is that, when it rains, it washes, something out of the scrim which discolours the blooms and is more liable to do harm than good. . Another thing about using a cover in that it should be one that can be rolled up or taken off when the weather is fine and warm enough. It is not the sun that spoils the flowers so much as wind and water. When the blooms are getting old they will fade whether they are covered or not, and tho red cupped varieties are well known for this. They are very easily damaged round the rim of the coloured cup. In the case of flowers ready to pick but too early for shows, pick them and take them into a dark room and keep them in water. They can be kept for a week or more in this way and will be useful when wanted. Do not prune the dwarf roses until next month. We are preparing a short article on pruning which will appear in a week or two and will show you how to go about the work. In the case of the climbing roses you can begin on these at once. The main thing to think about is tho number of long growths you need to cover the fence, and you will have to prune so that these are left. When you come to do tho work von will probably find that .the tangled growths are those from the laterals and most of these can be cut off’. Trim up all the branches that are left so that only spurs about an inch long remain, and from these new laterals will spring which will in most cases carry flowers this year. A well-trained and pruned climbing rose will carry more blooms than one left unpruned, and the flowers will be of better quality for cutting. These notes apply to the H.T. and climbing sports and not to the . wishuriana class which is pruned after flowering. ROSES. “Amateur” says: “Please find enclosed some pieces of roses from a bed we have which is growing in

rather light soil. No. 1 is from some plants which have been in the same bed for eight years and in the spring there are plenty of sweet-scented pink roses, hut we do not get much bloom afterwards. No. 2 is irom a pergola and seems to he at the base of the plants. The roses are planted on the south side. Would it be better to move them to the northern side? I do not know how long they have been . planted. At any rate, more than eight years, because I have been here that length of time and the plants were there when I came. The pergola is a strong lence. What is the liic of a rose in any case?”

The cuttings you have sent in are most probably stock on which the plants have been worked. We could not be sure of this without leaves and flowers. The cuttings in No. 2 bundle are from wichuriana roses, probably Dorothy Perkins or Lady Gay. In ay ease they are hardly suitable for the position you have them; some of the hybrid tea climbers would be better und these could he planted on the northern side, hut the soil would require making up with clean, fresh turf and manure. You would probably have to do this even if you moved the wichurianas. The growths look as if the plants have been starved for many years. The quostion as to the life of a plant is one that is rather hard to answer, hut you will find that plants growing in a light soil will not last as long as those growing in a heavy one. Some of the older peruettianas do not last for more than three, or at the most live, years. Some of the newer ones will last for ten or twelve years, which is about the life or the useful life of any dwarf rose. We know of some plants which are still doing well at twenty years, hut when hey get to this age it would he better to replace tneni with some fresh ones. Climbing roses will last considerably longer than the dwarf ones if they are well-treated and are pruned hack each season alter they are well established. MUSHROOMS.

One man says that mushrooms taken from a paddock that has been topdressed with superphosphate aro not wholesome to eat. We have never heard this before, and if anyone has had any experience in the matter we would like to hear what they have to say. As far as we know there lias not been anything said about this matter before. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

At this time of the year the vegetable garden is a most important place because the soil has to be got ready for crops that have to follow. In many cases cover crops of green stuff havo been sown to be dug ill as green manure and every opportunity of fine weather should be taken to get the digging done. Turn the soil over and cover the green stuff as well as can be. but leave the surface rough to the weather. If lime has not been spread on the soil do this as soon as the digging has been completed. One “Enquirer” says: “Shall I put the lime on the soil before I dig it? It seems to me that this is the best plan as it would get mixed with the soil at once.'” No, the best plan is to put it on the surface after digging, and, being heavy, it will sink through the soil and subsequent workings will mix it up. It must he remembered when dealing with lime and manures that they work quicker when they are near the' surface, and any surplus not required will sink further into the soil to be recovered by the next digging. Shallots can be planted out now. Make the surface of the soil as fine as possible and simply press each clove in about half way, and it will soon root and hold itself there. Allow from six tq nine inches from plant to plant and a foot between the rows, so that they can be hoed when required. It is the rule that when shallots are planted soon after the shortest day they can be lifted soon after the longest.

Peas can be sown now, choosing one of the dwarfer growing varieties for early planting. If the soil is dry soak the seed overnight and it will not take so long to come up. Space the seed out about two inches apart and the plants will have a ' 'tter chance than when sown too thickly. Draw a flat-bottomed drill from two to three inches in depth and sow lime along the bottom. It

does not matter if the lime comes in contact with tho seed. It will do no harm.

A. —Shows the seed correctly spaced out. B. —Sown much too thickly. One plant will starve another when they arc sown in this way.

When the ground is in a workable condition onion plants from autumn sown seed can he planted. Onions like a well-manured soil that is fairly solid and when they are planted all that is necessary is simply to cover tho roots. The plants may lie over on the soil for a few days, but illey will soon recover and stand up straight. One would think that it uid not matter whether the small bulb was covered or not, but in practice it means that many o! them well become thick-necked if they are planted too deeply in the soil. Plant out lettuces in raised beds now and give the soil a good dressing of manure. These plants like a good rich soil that is well drained, but. at the same time they like plenty of water when they begin to grow. Being a very quick maturing plant, they must have manure that fs quickly available to their needs. In well-sheltered spots a few potatoes can be planted now if the sets are ready, but if they are not, start them sprouting before you plant- t.’iem, even if you have to wait a month.