SHETLAND KNITTERS

Lake Wakatip Mail, Issue 3715, 19 October 1926, Page 7

SHETLAND KNITTERS

ROMANCE AND FOLKLORE OF FAMOUS INDUSTRY PATTERNS FROM SPAIN. The older generation was made familiar with (ho woollen goods of (he Shetland and Fair Isles and with their manufacture at (ho first Edinburgh Exhibition of 1886, where a Shetland stall, with four young gills in island costume, busy knitting, was one of the attractions (writes J. G. Finlay, in tho ‘Weekly Scotsman’). The framework of tho stall was made from two pairs of huge whales’ jaws, width still stand in tho Meadows in Edinburgh, weather worn, but staunch. The islanders have been knitting their now famous articles for over four centuries, and the work and romance of the industry cannot fail to interest the present generation. Shetland consists of about 100 isles and islets. Tho coast line has been varied in a most wonderful manner by the action of tho unwearied sea for many ages, and it is therefore strikingly picturesque and grand. Bright little bays alternate with winding lochs (locally called “ vocs ”), and tho restless tides have also scooped out many wide and deep caves. It is a stern land, yet made habitable and pleasant by tbe natives, who rival tho encompassing ocean in their ceaseless activity. The ponies are well known in many foreign lands, being like their breeders, esteemed for their good nature, willingness, and reliability. ULTIMA THULE. The isles are assumed to be the Ultima Thule spoken of by some ancient writers, but the particulars these writers gave were somewhat vague. In attributing the cultivation of the cabbage in tho isles to some of Cromwell’s soldiers, one is treading on safer historic ground. Scott found inspiration for his romance. ‘The Pirate,’ during a visit to these isles; still travellers will find delight in the scenery of Scotland’s northern bulwark, health in rambling along its shores, and sport in fishing in its translucent and well-stocked waters. An unimaginative writer who had never seen tbe Shetlands described them as “ the melancholy isles.” He could never have been acquainted with the long sunny summer days, closed with tho glories of unsurpassed sunsets which usher in the delightful twilit nights of this latitude; nor could his eyes have been ravished by the quaint antics of the Merry Dancers filling the heavens with the kaleidoscopic forms and colors of their brilliant robes—the tartan of the skies.

If tho land does not “ flow with milk and honey,” it is well supplied with fish and wool. The Shetland sheep are, of course, the foundation upon which tho wollen industry has been built. They are a breed peculiar to tbe isle, being described as “ small and neat, with wool of uncommon fineness.” So uncommonly fine indeed is it that a shawl 2yds square will pass through a wedding ring. The thought of a wedding recalls the tradition of the origin of such delicate and artistic work as has been displayed by the knitters for ages. Folk lore lias it that a mermaid fell in love with one of Shetland’s stalwart fishermen. Like all her sex, she longed to pursue the chosen of her heart, but alas! how could she with nothing but scales to drape her beauty. Love solved tho problem. She wove her native sea foam into a becoming dress, and her net was as successful as her fisherman's own. Tho island women were quick to appreciate the beauty of her robes, and the mermaid (who settled down into a staid and respectable inhabitant) taught them her art in wool. DESIGNS FROM NATURE.

But, the people of Iho Shetland Ides, with their progressive spirit, have not been content to rest upon past achievements; they keep “in the foremost files of Time,” as is shown by the ever new and tasteful designs copied from spiders’ webs, shells, seaweed, or leaves in fact, all Nature’s best and most charming models. The natural colors of the wool aro brown, moorit, grey, and white; but the wool is dyed also in all tbo colors known to science, and these aro fast. The goods arc also made up in combination with art. silk. The articles are knitted by over 10,000 women and girls, who thus employ their spare moments, saved from (he work of their small holdings. Hand-knitted articles arc, of course, dearer than machine-knitted ones, but they are warmer, kindlier, and more lasting. When our fair ladies and gallant men use a “pullover” it may interest them to know that, the wool composing it was literally a "pullover” to its original owner, for the Shetland sheep are usually relieved of it by having it drawn over their bodies from rump"to bead. It comes oil' us easily as a glove, and thus the use of shears and the snipping of flesh arc avoided. Another tale of (he Isles is interesting. A wee cripple lassie could not do much but Iniit the common coarse Shetland stockings of long ago. A kind-hearted fairy took pity on her. and one day when the girlie was plying her dull work the fairy set a spider spinning a web before her. The girl was struck with the beauty of the web, and the fairy whispered “ Copy it. ’ The result was one' of Shetland’s loveliest patterns. THE FAIR ISLE. The Faif Isle lies about midday between the Orkneys and Shetland. Isolated in stormy seas, its battered precipices bidding defiance to the tempests, are typical of the hardy race of men and sheep winch find lire enjoyable there. The sheep are of a kindred typo to the Shetland breed, but their woof is not so fine. Since the Prince of Wales wore a Fair Isle sweater at St. Andrews, it lias become so well known that the tale of the origin of Ibo patterns will bear repeating. Drietly it might be staled thus;

Tbe Don for vengeance sallied forth, Death and destruction spitting; The canny Scots far in (he north Caught him, and learnt him Peaces worth; , . .... The Don then taught them knitting.

It was in “ the spacious times of good Queen Bess" when the Spaniard was Lord of the Earth. We all know (he story ot his ■lnvincible Armada”: but it had an unforeseen result through one of the vessels bein'* wrecked on the Fair Isle, and some 200 of the crew being saved. During a stay of some months there the Spaniards taught the women their quaint patterns, most of which were originally derived trom (lie Moorish masters of Spam. Ihus do the ages join hands, and Romance O’ke flowers and poetry) springs up m unlikely places. One pattern is a golden anchor on a blue ground. This was the coat of arms grunted to Columbus by the fepamsh sovereigns as one of the rewards tor his discovery of (he New World. SAPEGUAR DS INDUSIR Y. .Success in business always brings competition, and the Shetland industry is no exception. When competition is tau; we Britishers are the last to complain ot it, oi rather we never do complain; but when it is unfair it rouses our resentment, being opposed to all our traditions and practice ot sporlranaiiship. The remark was occasioned by (be fact that inferior articles arc nowput, upon the market as Shetland goods. r X’ln‘v arc sometimes only poor mutations, made of foreign wools. This, with the present depression of trade, has done the ni-du-lrv much harm. The Shetlanders, however, "have faced the mailer by having a trade mark rogisteied for Shetland goods and another for Fair Isle products. Jhe mark is a round one, with a Viking galley in full sail in the centre, with "Shetland printed across. For the Fair Isle the words "Fair Isle" are added.