Successful Ascent of Mt. Earnslaw.

Lake Wakatip Mail, Issue 1860, 26 February 1892, Page 5

Successful Ascent of Mt. Earnslaw.

The Daily Timet of Saturday publishes an interesting account of the successful ascent of Earnslaw which has been accomplised by Mr and Mrs Maclolm Rom, of Dunedin, Mr Kenneth Ross, and Mr Harry Birley, the intrepid well-known guide and Mr D. M'Conachy, a sturdy settler at the Head of the Lake.

The party left Glenorchy (our contemporary states) on Thursday and rode for seventeen miles up the Rees River Valley. The camp was reached at dusk at an altitude of 4,000 ft, and serious operations began early next morning, though the mountain was enveloped in mist. The snow line was reached after three hours, tome grand avalanches being seen en route. The snow was not in good condition, but after a short council of war it was decided to proceed, and the party of five, roped tof ether, began to zigzig up the steep snow slopes, 'be only route lay between some deep crevasses in the ice below and two or three ugly bergs above. From the latter there was no danger, but a slip would have precipitated the party into the crevasses below. The rope, however, gave safety, and though the snow was knee deep the ice plateau at the foot of the final peak was reached at about twelve o'clock —very good work, jonsidering that a lady formed one of the party. At this point the mists cleared somewhat, and a very fine view was obtained, the two peaks of Earnslaw towering above in majestic grandeur ; while down below on the left were the piles of snow and brokeu ice of the Birley glacier. The first serious work was up a steep snow slope, which afforded a good foothold, ana then the climbers found themselves at the foot of a series of ovei hanging precipices, with snow covered

ledges, and great icicles depending from the cliffs. A few of these came crashing down over anient wall of rock to the left, and that route was consequently avoided. At the first rock the work was fairly easy, and the rope was dispensed with ; but at last a series of overhanging ledges which were covered with ice seemed to bar the way to further progress. Harry Birley, however, thought it was possible to ascend, and Kenneth Ross, who was leading, after chipping away some of the it e, managed to clamber up. Harry Birley followed, but lost his footing owing to a pannikin which he was carrying at his |belt catching in the overhanging rock, and for some time he was in a very precarious position, hanging over a precipice with only his left hand. With remaikable coolness and nerve, however, he managed to steady himself ou the slippery rock, and Kenneth Ross was able to assist hiin up. It was agreed that it would he dangerous and almost impossible for Mrs Rosa to overcome such a serious obstacle, and a halt w as made for auother council of war. It was eventually decided that she should return with M'Conachy, who decided to forego his chance of making the ascent. Harry Birley and the Ross brothers theu continued the ascent. Tiie mists again closed around the party and atone time they were on the point of turning. Mr H. Ross, however, thought they would top the peak by 4 p.m., and having come so far were unwilling to return, as indeed were the others. All wer<r desirous to prove the truth or otherwise of Mr Harry Birley's statement that he bad ascended the peak in 1889. Climbing was difficult owing to the snow and ice on the steep rocks, but fair progress was made. When within about 300 ft from the summit a more serious difficulty had to be faced, as Birley, who had not quite regained his wanted strength after his recent illness, was seized with a fainting fit, and could not proceed farther. He was not long in recovering ; but, being still rather weak Mr Ross urged that a retreat should be made. Harry, however, objected strongly, and after seeing he was in a safe position the Ross Bros, continued their upward journey. They met with some more ugly rock-work, and the snow getting ha-der as they ascended, occasional steps had to be cut with the ice axes. At last, however, the final precipice was rouuded, and progressing rapidily along the main arete the cornice of the topmost ridge came into view, and later the cairn and flag pole erected hy Harry Birley on the occasion of his ascent, in 1889, were seen looming through the fog. Then the mists cleared, and two minutes later the brothers Ross with a loud cheer srepped on to the summitt of the peak. Mr Ross had carried his camera all the way up, and the first thing to be done now was to take a photograph of the cairn to set at rest all doubts that had hitherto existed regarding young Birley's statement. The cairn was half covered with snow, and the stick, worn smooth and white by the storms of thiee winters, was beautiful with half formed icicles and snow work. The rocks were taken down carefully one by one, and there near the bottom of the cairn sure enough *as the bent shilling safely ensconced in a small Irish Moss bottle, just as Harry Birley had said it would be found The view during a few minutes sunshine was V describably grand. The ice cornice overhung considerably, but down below on the east side could be seen the steep upper slopes of the Birley glacier. Towards Glenorchy there was nothing to be seen but the upper portion of the great Earnslaw glacier and below an unfathomable abyss of mist and cloud. Away lo the north-west, however, the sun had dispersed the mist and a glorious view of tMft snow-clad peaks and splendid glaciers gradually folded itself. The sea was plainly visible for miljP' on the west coast of the island north of Mar? tin's Bay and, to the north east, among a fine series of snowy mountains, towered the splendid peak of Mount Aspiring. To the north-west, among the Cosmos Range*, a new lake was discovered, at a height of about 6000 ft, and this Mr Ross named, after his brother, " Kenueth Lake." Mrs Ross's plucky trip was particularly the subject of admiring comment, as she had succeeded in reaching an elevation of nearly 9,000 ft, and would undoubtedly, have trod the summit but for the snow and freshly-fallen ice that made the rock-work so difficult. The party carried back a variety of alpine plant*, including some fine specimens of eidelwfiss. Mr Ross secured a number of interesting photographs, including one of an avalanche from Birley glacier, and another of the two final peak* from the ice plateau at a height of nearly B,oooft.