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THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. Greenhouse.—All kinds of greenhouse plants of a tender character should be got under cover, as sharp frosts may be experienced 'at any time after this date, and one may destroy all or tho greater part of nest season's bloom As each plant is taken In examine the . drainage or trouble will be experienced ,- later on. Tuberous-rooted begonias are fast going past their best, and should be removed to a cool, dry position, where they can be ripened off gradually. Plants of streptocarpus that have been flowering through the summer should be rested at once, and given similar treatment to that suggested for begonias. Remove the old flower spikes unless the seed is wanted. Amaryllis may be potted now or later on. Use rotted turf, good loamy leaf mould, very little manure, some charcoal and sharp sand. Primulas should be transferred from the frames to the I greenhouse; put them quite close to the glass, and give each plant as much j room as possible to keep them sturdy. When crowded the foliage and leaf stalks get weak and brittle, and break easily when tne plants are moved. Aa the leaves are nearly as handsoine ahd useful as their flowers this is a big loss. The double varieties need a warmer temperature than, the single,.but .they must be kept near the glass. When the pots are filled with roots give the plants weak manure water once or twice a week—not too strong, make about the colour of weak tea,_ and alternate it with soot water. Cinerarias should have larger pots, more room and loss shade. Move the plants occasionally to prevent the roots getting , through tho hole at the bottom of the »" pot, and to keep the plant as symmetrical as possible. These plants are often killed through over-watering, so let each plant get fairly dry before giving it more water. Marguerite Carnations.—Seed of this most useful race of carnations may be sown during the next few weeks. By sowing now and wintering the young plants -in frames or a cold greenhouse they will be larg* enough to be planted out early in September next, and will be in full flower during November, December, January , and February- If a little seed is put in during August the plants, raised from that sowing will come into flower during February and give blossoms up to the time frost puts a check v to growth for the winter. It is strange that the marguerite carnation receives so little attention. Each plant will give a greater number of blooms than a plant of the border or florists' variety > will; and by making two sowings—one in the autumn and the other early in spring—-a continuous supply of carnation flowers may be had for seven months out of the twelve. Most of the J flowers are large, borne on strong, erect stems that hold the blooms up without" the aid of stakes or wire supports. The flowers are very fragrant, more so than a great number of the perennial varieties. The shades of colour range from pure white to red and crimson. It is singular that promoters of flower shows / have not included a class for this section in their schedule of prizes, as good exhibits could be staged during quite six months out of the twelve. In gardens s where there is a large demand for cut flowers a number of plants should be put out in the kitchen garden solely for cutting from. This would leave those planted in the flower borders to last as long as blooms wera formed. Perennial carnations that were layered early should be well rooted by this date. All fit to be remove* should be replanted in a carefully-pre-pared bed. Hardy Fruits. —Apples and pears will require almost daily attention—those that are fit should be gathered carefully and stored. It is most important that the fruits should not be gathered too soon_; it would be better to lose a few as " windfalls" than to have a great part of them shrivel up through being gathered before they were fit. As th« flowers do not all open at one time, th« fruits cannot be fit for harvesting on one day. A very good test to prove if a fruit is fit to pick is to gently raise it without pulling it, and if it parts easily at the junction of the stalk with the spur it is ready; but should it need any force go oyer the tree again in a few days. Cuttings of gooseberries and currants may now be put in. These like firm soil., but should it be on the heavy side put some ashes or. sandy soil along the bottom of the trenches.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/LT19050403.2.7

Bibliographic details

Lyttelton Times, Volume CXIII, Issue 13714, 3 April 1905, Page 2

Word Count
792

THE GARDEN. Lyttelton Times, Volume CXIII, Issue 13714, 3 April 1905, Page 2

THE GARDEN. Lyttelton Times, Volume CXIII, Issue 13714, 3 April 1905, Page 2