THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

Lyttelton Times, Volume XCIII, Issue 10594, 1 March 1895, Page 3

THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS.

YISIT OF THE GOVERNOR. A brief description of the visit of the Hinemoa to the islands to the south of New Zealand and to the Chatham Islands was published on Monday. A detailed account of the trip, for which we are mainly indebted to Sir James Hector and Mr H. W. Matthews is subjoined. The Hinemoa left the Bluff on Jan. 30, and a few hours’ steaming brought her to Half-moon Bay, Stewart Island, where the party had the opportunity of seeing the Hobart whaler Helen cutting out a 12-tun whale. The steamer anchored for the night at Tort Adventure. On the following morning a start was made for the Snares, but owing to the heavy seas it was found necessary to run back to Patterson’s Inlet for shelter. The party went ashore shooting, and the Governor visited the native settlement. In the afternoon another start was made for the Snares, but tho steamer was again compelled to put back and took shelter in Fort Pegasus, where a landing was effected, and a number of good photographs were obtained. The gale moderating towards evening, the Hinemoa was, enabled to gat away, and the Snares were reached before daybreak on Sunday, Feb. 3, the party being awakened by the screams of millions of mutton birds, which fairly darkened tho air. Before landing a huge cave was entered. It is about two hundred yards long and about twenty yards wide, with an arched roof fully forty feet high, and the spectacle disclosed by the light of tlje torches borne by the visiting party was weird and striking. Some fur seals were disturbed in the cave and made for the open sea. A landing was effected on a small island, and here sea lions, as well as a large number of the Victoria penguins, were seen for the first time during the cruise. Some of the party spent the day in botanieing and others in gathering mollyhawks’ eggs, of which about four hundred were obtained, and a number of petrels. Cape pigeons, nellies, sandbirds, snipe, and many other interesting specimens of the feathered tribe were secured. THE AUCKLAND ISLANDS. At dusk the steamer left for the Auckland?, arrived there on the following day, anchored in the north-west harbour, and afterwards cruised round to Port Rossi Here some twenty sea lions were seen, and a photograph of an encounter between two male lions was secured. Many interesting relics of shipwrecks were fonnd, and signs of castaways having been there were plentiful. Pieces of slate on which records of disasters were carved, and inscriptions cut on rata trees forty years ago, and which looked as fresh as if recently done, bore melancholy witness to bygone perils and hardships. After steaming round the coast, the vessel entered Musgrove Inlet, and anchored for the night. The noise made by ( the Royal penguins, which have a rookary on the grassy and rocky slopes of the inlet, is described aa moat singular. The birds arrive in large numbers at dark, and climb tho hill, keeping up a loud clattering in various keys, curiously resembling the noise made by an excited gathering of human beings. The wind was blowing with great violence early in the evening, but night the gale abated, and the sound was as smooth as glass next morning, when the steamer was surrounded by myriads of mutton birds, so closely packed together as to look like a solid rock or shoal. Further down the coast a narrow inlet was entered, and was fpund to lead to a large basin of navigable water, extending for about ten miles and surrounded by high rocky walls. This does not appear on recent charts, and has been named by Captain Fairchild Crater Inlet. Along the west coast there are no harbours, but rough perpendicular cliffs of from 200 feet to 600 feet high present an unbroken front to the sea. These cliffs are composed of basalt and tufa, and it would appear that the island is the eastern part of a former great volcanic mass, the western half of which has been removed by the erosion of the constant westerly swell and storms. The eastern harbours have evidently been formed by the softer materials having been eroded by lava streams in the same way aa the inlets on Banks Peninsula were formed. Carnley Harbour was next entered, and a fine view was obtained of the grassy hills with moderate slopes which surround it. A party was landed on Adams’s Island and some four hundred eggs were collected from the great albatross rookery existing there. The Hinemoa then steamed to the head of the harbour and the party visited a very interesting spot, known as “ Fairchild’s Garden,” where many rare and beautiful flowering plants were collected. Numerous sea lions were found in the long grass here. A small mob ; waa rounded up to be photographed, and several excellent pictures were taken. Here also seahawks and shags abound,, circling near the angry waters and nesting on the ledges of the cliffs. Soon after landing. Captain Fairchild, .while wading through the long, coarse grass and largeleaved plants of Pleurophyllum, Ligusticum and Aralia, knocked over with hia stick a specimen of the rare snipe of the Auckland Islands. Amongst the foliage here is conspicuous Anthericum Eosaii, with its great golden flower rods, while delicate purple and white gentians fringe the rock masses. At the head of Carnley Harbour a landing was made on Monument Isle, where about twenty sea lions of both sexes were met with. The males are of a dark colour, and twice the size of the females, which are of a dark yellowy gray, white-some-times, and so differ6||f|u the sexes appear that they have hitßikb been taken for two distinct species. Some extremely fine photographs of theseSfeals were taken as they were gathered together in a group on a grassy hill, and one female which had been wounded was secured and taken off to the vessel as arfbeoimen for the Wellington Museum. The following morning the north-west arm of, Carnley Harbour was explored for a gravelly beach, which was said to abound with agates.'But none were found. Figure of Eight Island, on which there is a large shag rookery, was visited, the dep6ts examined, and notices posted forbidding' the killing of seals. Here a furious gale sprang up, necessitating a return to Fairchild’s Garden for shelter. Early next morning a party ascended Tabletop*Mountain, and obtained a fine collection of sub-Alpine plants in flower. Fishing operations .were unsuccessful, only a few crabs being obtained. All day the o-ala continued, and did not moderate tiillaoon on the following day, when a start was made for the Macquaries, but after getting about twelve miles clear of the land it was found impossible to proceed in the teeth of the westerly gale and the steamer returned to her anchorage. The following morning, the gale having moderated somewhat, another start was made.

but when 145 miles had been traversed the sea increased, and the vessel had to lay-to under easy steam for some time. It was eventually decided to abandon the visit to the Macquaries, and a course was shaped for Campbell Island. During tho gale observations showed that the crests of the seas were 18ft to 20tt above their troughs, and the distance between them was 320 ft. Very rough weather, with hard squalls and rain and sleet showers, was met with on the run to the Campbells, the wind being piercingly colo, CAMPBELL ISLAND. At 4 p.m. on Feb. 11 the high-peaked mountain on the south end of Campbell Island' was sighted, and tho capo was rounded at 5.30, the sea running very high and breaking against a five-knot current. The view was a fine one, the bold fantastic outline and precipitous cliffs being dimly shrouded in tho squall clouds. Several waterfalls were seen to be blown into spray and driven high in. the air by the gusts, their having a curious resemblance to wreaths of smoke from fires on the top of the cliffs. After rounding the formidable sunken reefs which extend eastward for a mile from the point, the steamer got into smooth water and stood close iu to observe the extensive mollymawk rookeries, where thousands of the birds were gathered on the steep, grassy slopes on top of the cliffs. The steamer then ran up the north-west inlet against a howling wind, expecting to. find the Norwegian whaler at anchor, but she was notthere,and the Hinemoa steamed on to Perseverance Harbour end anchored in Venus Cove. On the following day the squalls wore so, severe as to prevent the lowering of boats, and tho party had to remain on board, although within a chain of the shore. The next day being more favourable, two boat-loads landed after a hard pull. Botanists aud bird collectors went to Mount Honey on tho south side of the harbour, and the others landed at the sealers’ hut on the north side of Venus Cove, and walked to the saddle, from where a fine view of the West Bay was obtained. On the point a grave was found, covered with a slab of white limestone, which had been shattered by the weather, and surmounted by an iron cross, The sealers’ hut showed signs of recent occupation, and on a beam there was a notice chalked up that the Royalist had v’sited there on the previous Wednesday. Following up the rough, tussocky ground, a height of 320 feet was reached, end many interesting plants were collected, but the flora was decidedly meagre both in genera and species. On the high grounds albatrosses were seen, nesting in large numbers. At the source of a stream that flows to Perseverance Harbour there is a large corrie in a semicircle .of basaltic cliffs, and across it is a perfect moraine, formed of largo boulders, which is the only evidence of former ice-action that has been observed. The hills at the head of the corrie run to 1400 feet to 1500 feet, but show no evidence of any recent glacial action. Amongst the tussocky grass was found a new species of Pleurophyllum, which has a silvery leaf, much resembling the Celmisia, or mountain daisy of the mainland. Large patches of Celmisia vernicosa, C. Campbellensis, stunted bushes of Dracophyllum, Coprosma and Veronica, and in moist spots Anthericum Eossii complete the list of obvious plants. The marked difference in the flora which strikes the observer is the absence of spear grass (Aciphilla), flax, manuka, olearias, aeneoios and many other plants that are so characteristic of similar situations in New Zealand. On visiting the depot, it was discovered that parts of the stores left there for ships’ castaways had been stolen by some visitor to the place. Close to the depdfc an outcrop of coal exactly similar to the Upper Waipara seams formation was discovered, the typical subdivision being represented, and the whole invaded by a complicated, series of volcanic dykes. Many shells of the largo Campbell Island crab were found cast up on the beach, and two new species of crabs were captured by the ndt from the vessel, but the continued bad weather rendered it impossible to make satisfactory collections. On Feb. 14, although the weather was still very rough, a start was made for the north cape of Campbell Island, where the precipitous cliffs' were closely approached to allow photographs to be taken of the enormous rookeries of mollymawks which at this time were just completing the breeding season. ANTIPODES ISLAND.

The next place visited was Antipodes Island, which was reached on the following day, and the vessel was brought up at the south anchorage after passing Remarkable Cliffs, which are well-named, as they run sheer from the water to a height of about 500 feet. The day promising to be fine, two boat loads went ashore to explore the island and collect paroquets, snipe, and other birds for which the island is famous. The landing was very difficult, involving a scramble over large, slippery boulders, over which a heavy swell surged, and bad it not been for the abundant growth of kelp, which acted as a fender, the boats must have been dashed to pieces. Just after the steep cliff, on top of which the depot is placed, had been climbed, a furious north-west gale came on, with torrents of rain. Unwilling to return, the party struggled on through tho high tussocks, and were soon soaked to the akin, and it was' not till late in the afternoon that the various collectors returned on board, having had but little success. During the night the storm continued, but moderated towards morning. The wind, however, changed, making the anchorage dangerous, and another had to be sought to the north of the island. A second visit ashore was made, and some forty-five paroquets and other birds were obtained, as well as a large addition to the collection of albatross and penguin eggs. The cattle, sheep and goats placed on tho island by Captain Fairchild on a previous visit were found to be thriving, doing as well as those on the Auckland and Campbell Islands. Getting under way, although it was blowing hard from the south-west, and bitterly cold, the vessel steamed round the island, and a good view was obtained of the remarkable coastal Scenery, which was the finest met with on the trip. The shapes presented by the cliffs are bold and fantastic, sheer precipices, surmounted by shingle pinnacles, and with serrated outlines, and the colouration of the rocks, varying from intense black to chocolate brown and pink and cold gray, add to the striking effect. A few sketches and photographs were obtained, but the severity of the weather militated against a thorough enjoyment of the wonderful scenery, the grandeur of which was quite unexpected. Passing the more exposed parts of the .coast the cove was. seen where the castaway seamen of the ill - fatad ship Spirit of the Dawn spent eighty days, subsisting on penguins and their eggs, eaten raw, although they were within two miles of the depot hut with its stores of food, clothing, fuel and other necessaries. They made no attempt to explore the island, but in order to have done so it would have been necessary for them to scale formidable cliffs and afterwards tramp through tussocks in many places 8 feet high, and they were not aware of the existence of the'depob. In the circuit of the island an immense archway was seen, presenting a sheer precipice 600 feet high, and composed of rich chocolate-coloured volcanic tufa, hollowed out into great caves, the entrance to one of which was 200 feet high, A singular islet was passed. It is shaped like a gigantic shoo, towering to a height of 300 feet, and evidently owing its form to the resistance offered by an intersecting volcanic dyke.

Tho Bounty Rocks, which consist of twenty-four islets, were next visited. No landing was made, hut-millions of penguins were seen, and the odour from the rookeries was discernible for a distance of some miles. In the cold, grey morning the rocks had the moat desolate appearance conceivable, great bare granite peaks rising from huge depths of ocean, and lashed by furious waves, tho spray of which seemed to break on the higher peaks. THE CHATHAM ISLANDS. A course was then steered for the Chathams, and on Feb. 18 the Pyramid Rock at.the south of Pitt Island came into

view, and Waitangi anchorage was reached safely about midday. Major Gascoyne came off to the vessel and arranged for an official landing of his Excellency the Governor, which took place in the afternoon. There was a great display of bunting, and upon landing about three hundred settlers and Maoris were seen drawn up around the flagstaff.

ADDRESSES TO TEE GOVERNOR. The following is a translation of the address presented to the Governor by the Maoris and Morioria :—“ Salutation and welcome to the Governor, Welcome, welcome, O Governor, who comes to see this island of Wharo Eanoi without men to welcome you! There are no men left to salute, for they have passed away with the times behind ua, when the old men were alive to raise a big shadow of welcome to you. Welcome to you in the graciousness of Queen Victoria. Let this greeting cease.— Pangu Pangu tb Einga Paina te Poei.”

His Excellency replied as follows: — “ Pangu Pangu to Eiuga, Paina te Fold— I have to thank you. for the hearty welcome you have given'me as the Governor of New Zealand on my visit to your islands. It is the same welcome which I have received from the Maoris in all parts of New Zealand, and even aa far as Earatonga. I am glad to bear of your welfare, and am very glad to meet you, and I wish you, as well as the other inhabitants of the Chatham Islands, every prosperity.” The following address was then presented on behalf of the European settlers: Glasgow, G.C.M.G., Governor and Cornman der-in-Chief of her Majesty’s Colony of New Zealand and its Dependencies,— May it please your Excellency. We have the honour, on behalf of the residents of these islands, to express our very sincere pleasure at receiving a visit from her Most Gracious Majesty’s representative, and to proffer a most cordial welcome to yourself and-the gentlemen accompanying you. As this is the first time that our island baa been honoured by a vice-regal visitor, we trust that your Excellency will make due allowance for the simplicity of our arrangements for your reception, and accept oar assurance that: though we lack the display suitable to such an occasion, wo, in our sentiments of cordiality to your Excellency and of loyalty to our Gracious Sovereign, are second to none in the colony. Owing to our distance and isolation from the rest of the colony, the capabilities of our island for the support of a much larger population, and a corresponding increase or industrial productions, Have perhaps been somewhat overlooked by the central Government; but we trust that your Excellency’s visit to this distant part of her Majesty’s dominions may be productive of much good, by bringing these islands more prominentlyiunder the notice of your Government. Ohr walls are such in name only; our port is absolutely without any accommodation for shipping; but we think that the awakening desire for advancement now being exhibited by both races inhabiting these islands, supported by your Excellency’s knowledge and appreciation of our necessities, will result, in the near future, in the acquisition of these necessary helps to industry and progress. Meanwhile, we trust that your Excellency will add to our gratification by taking back with you pleasant recollections of your short visit, and, in conclusion, we ask your acceptance of our sincere prayers for the welfare of yourself and Lady Glasgow and family. We have the honour to remain, on behalf of the residents of the Chatham Islands, your Excellency’s obedient servants, P. J. W. Gascoyne, stipendiary magistrate ; F. G. Engst, settler; P. A. D. Cox, sheep-farmer.” His Excellency replied as follows ‘ ‘ Mb j or Gascoyne and Gentlemen, I have to thank you for the cordial welcome which you have given to me as her Majesty’s representative in New Zealand on the first occasion when a Governor of the colony has been able to visit this interesting island. I was much struck this morning, while steaming along the coast, by the beauty and apparent fertility of your island, and I am informed your land is as rich as it is beautiful. There can bo no doubt but that an island so productive must have a future before it, and that in the not vary remote future it will carry a very considerable population. I much regret that the Premier was unable to accompany me on this visit to the Chatham Islands. He expressed his sorrow that other engagements prevented his doing so. I am sure that my Ministers have the interests of the Chatham Islands, as of the rest of New Zealand, at heart, and they will carefully consider any proposals which may be put before them for the advancement of your interests. I must again thank you for your hearty welcome, and conclude by wishing every prosperity and good fortune to your community.” At the conclusion of the address the National Anthem was sung, and three cheers were given for his Excellency. ISLAND HOSPITALITY. During the afternoon the Governor and party were entertained at the Government Eesident’s house by Mrs Gascoyne, and many of the chief settlers were introduced to his Excellency. On the following day a regatta was held, the Hinemoa acting as flagship. The party from the Hinemoa visited all the places of interest, horses being kindly supplied by the settlers, but the views were somewhat marred by the smoky state of the atmosphere, said to be due to bush fires in Now Zealand, and this was afterwards found to be the cause. The general aspect of the country was found to resemble very much that about Mongonui, to the north of Auckland. The cattle were in excellent condition, owing to the plentiful supply of karaka leaves, a food on which they thrive splendidly. During the afternoon the Governor held a formal reception of natives, at which speeches were made, and gifts of sheep and potatoes were presented to his Excellency, and in the evening a ball was given to the party. The same day H.M.S. Eoyalist arrived, and anchored in the roadstead. Next morning the man-of-war left for Auckland, and the Hinemoa also departed with the intention of visiting the Moriori settlement at the South Cape, but the weather becoming rough no landing was effected there. A visit was afterwards made to Mr Shand’s station atTe Whakune,

where the party was hospitably entertained, and about a dozen boxes of Chatham Island lilies were obtained. Mr Hood’s '' estate was visited next day, and the Governor went ashore to the Moriori settlement* only to find that the Natives had gone to Waitangi to meet him. On Friday last, at noon, the Hinemoa steamed away for Lyttelton, arriving there at noon on Sunday.