AN AFRICAN ADVENTURE.

Lyttelton Times, Volume LIX, Issue 6875, 13 March 1883, Page 6

AN AFRICAN ADVENTURE.

Of all the various races of tho west »ait of Africa, th» Boobies, or native* of the beau* 'Ufa*, but to Europeans, fatal Island of Fernando Po, la the Qulf of Bonis, aro among tho taott tomarkmblo, on ooeouot of tbtdiffownco in tho *pp*ar*»e#, hablte. and maanara of the** peoplo from thoso of the raws of tribe* of tho adjacent mainland. Finely formed, with, as a jrenwal rule, not strongly marked African nogro feotar**, they voluntarily disfigure—or ornament themM > TM ?—by tattooing on their approach towards manhood - not with the rofular linos and figures with which the South lea Islanders and otbera adorn thrir portoas, but with deep hideous gashea, which open widely, and leave frightful cicatrice* on their faces and breast*. It would appear that those who are most despJy marked with this hideous Uttooiog are regarded with tho greatest respect by the people of the tribe. In one r*sp*et, however, these strange people aw last dviiised than any other negro race* inasmuch at they go absolutely destitute of clothing, Aa a substitute, for clothing however, tke Boabiso—male and female—habitually cover their bodies from bead to foot with palm oil, coloured with a kind of red oehi* which abounds on the island, and watch etains tho akin, and oven the woolly hair, of a bright yellowish red or bronxe colour, and gives them tho appearance, when standing motionless a short distance off, of to many hronie statues. It also aerres the purpate of keeping off the mosquitoes and sandflies and other venomous insects. Fernando Fo if as earthly paradise to look upon; and though fever is prevalent and often fatal in the setttamont of Clarence, the interior, where the native villages are generally situated, is taid to be healthy. The island, which ts nearlv circular, is about thirty miles in diameter, and densely wooded from its shores to the lofty mountain—between seven and eight thousand feet in height, according to estimate —which rises in U« centre.

One day, while our ship was at anchor in Clarence Bay, ft party of seven or eight was formed by the second-Heutonant to visit the interior, ond penetrate, if possible, to the foot of tbe mountain. The present writer was oae of the party, and we tot forth early in the morning immediately after breakfast. There was little diiEeulty about travelling in aid-day, for our journey would lead u« through a dense forest, almost imperviou* to the sun's ray*, the whole distance we pur- : posed to travel. We were roeouimended to arm ourselves, in ease any difficulty ahould arise, and mo*t of ua carried a revolver, con* cealed, of courts. We wtera curious to tee j the habstotioo* of the native*; for though j there were a few negro huts of the ordinary j description in the vicinity of the settlement, j those were chiefly inhabited by coast negroe*,, who had token up their abode on the island, and wer* hangers-on upon the whito resid#ats. The Boobie villages were all in the interior, and we had been told that they were curiosities in their way. It was in the direction of one of tbe most populous villages that we eet forth, plunging into the wood as toon as we quitted the settlement. Hothing remarkabla occurred during th* journey, except that wo p&tsed several enormou* trees of mahogany species, and saw a few small monkeys, which clung by their toils to the branches of the trees, and swinging to and fro, chattered volubly a* we passed beneath them. Heither did we m?et a single negro, until we had journeyed three or four milet, when we came upon a party of young men collecting palm-wine in the palm-trees, from which, when they perceived as approaching, they descended with incredible and, as it appeared to ut, dangerous swiftness, and scampered off, hallooing to one another in the direction of the village. Aa we walked slowiy, it was mar mid-day before we approached the base of the mountain; and very toon the chattering of many voices told us that we were near tbe village. However, we kept on following the direction of the voice*, and in a few minute* saw a psrty of eighteen or twenty men, who came towardt us, headed by a man bent with year*, who leaned hearily upon a stout stick at he walked. The young men who had run away on seeing us, had no doubt carried the new* of our approach to tbo people of the village 5 and this deputation, heeded by tho venerable tenior, had come forth to ascertain the object of our visit.

We wen* in somewhat of a dihmna. None of u* could speak a word of the Boobie language} sor could any of the negroes on board, or we abould h*T« brought one of them to i«r«« as an interpreter; and except a certain formula of words, which they had Umrned from the sailors, and which it« unDecesaary to repeat—though the old man ana some of the ©there uttered them orer and orer again, evidently thinking they were jrrseiicg us most politely—the deputation knew nothing of Bnglieb. It was ludicrous to see the poor fellows bowing, and waving their hand* in token of amity—evidently doubtful of our object in coming to their Tillage, and deprecating any unfriendly act on our part—and at the tame time swearing at b* in most approved nautical formula, until the second lieutenant, smiling, shook hands with the old man and swore at him in returns upon which a general shaking of hand* and swearing ensued, and the party eeemed satisfied that we had no evil intent in rUiting them. The old man then issued some order* 5 and several boys appeared, bringing pUaj-wine in gourds, with ooooa-nut eupa to drink it from, and banana* and plantains and ©Uwr fruit*, which they prated upon our acceptance- We, however, wished to enter the Tillage, which, a* we perceived by ad. Taneiog a few steps, wm close to «e,*%nd eonnuted of ssroe do«*n email low huts, and a vast numb#r of the large but light bark canoes, •upended, bottom upward*, from tree to tree, beneath which eome old # men were squatted. We could see neither women nor children, though, when we first drew near, we could distinctly hear their shrill voices in loud outcry. They bud apparently taken j abrm at our approach i and the men were evidently so unwilling that we should enter their village, though they did not offer to use force U prevent u* from so doing, that as we had no desire to offend their prejudices, »nd, moreover, at we could see all that w#» to be smn from where we stood, we g»?« way, and ski ourselws down to rest and partake of the refreshments they bad provided. They seemed pbasod at this | and after resting awhile, we took our departure, with a mutual exchange of the formula with which our friends had greeted our arrival, learing the old man and one or two olh#rs, who appemd to possess eome authority, highly delighted with a present or old cotton handkerchiefs,» few small silver coins, and a few " hands " of leaf'tobacco. We returned to the sloop-of' war shortly before dark, and bad hardly set foot on baard when w« saw a double-banked war-canoe approaching the ship from the mainland.

Thia waa aa unexpected riait. The "double banked oanoea" are formed of two huge trunks of treea carefully and neatly hollowed out, until the eheli, though of great atrength, it often thinner than tha eidee of an ordinary boat. The ouUidei ai well »the inaidea are amoofcbed and pollened with palm oil, miied with «ome pigment, and the hollowing ia to contrifed that the bow and etern of each «anoe are muoh bigber thao the (Senfcre. The SJw hSnm** elaborately omed, the then bounT firmly together, M that it to alnoat impotaible to oapii*» them in tne

roughest mm, The paddler*, from twenty to forty in number, squat crow-legged on the bottom of theeenoci, there being ttoitretehert UiotpftNtMMftndftrotttMS tho etoruj ft«d th* peddle* are shaped *»!• • m * !l1 •***•« * Stk •hortttandlu. Bapldly wielded, with short quick strokes or dips, the p»ddl«rt obanting tome monotonous song the while, the** eftnot* lira forced twiftly over tbo water. Bat they are sever u*#d except by tome "tffH chief going to war of ob torn* important, mission. There were two figures clothed in white to th« stern of this mnee, both evidently chiefs, although w« had no id#ik to what rftos or tribe they briongsd, or what was their object in visiting the rioop of war. A few minute-*, how. ever, brought tbe east* alongside* and the chief* ascended to the ship's deck. Both were tall stout men, end they really presented e« imposing appearance in their ample white robe*. Our vttitor* were of • jet-bl»sk complexion, their skin* shining like polished ebony. Both were good-looking negro**. Ho who appeared to have chief authority wore * thotl beard, Mid hie nose, though the notlril* were distended, wm tligbtiy aquiline. Their lout whito calico robes, worn aomewhat in the •lyJe of a Scotch plaid, reached ta the calve* Of their leg* behind, hut left tho right knee bare in front, while the robe descended • few inch** below the toft knee. It was doubled mnrn tho breatt, and one end we* thrown gracefully over tho left thoulder [ and though it had no eleeve* in reality, it wm »o arranged that tho arms, bar* to the elbow*, teemed to bo tbrutt through wido bishopsleeves, which hung drooping at their tide*. Both wore a white h«aa-dre*t, somewhat resembling a Turkish turban, with a long and Rowing flap behind, to nhade the eon from the neck. The headman'* turban was larger than that- of his companion, and wore profusely ornamented with gold spangle* and strings of cowrie shells; but each wore hear; gold bracelets and anklets, and a crooked sword or scimitar, without a sheath, attached to a bolt round the waiitt. Their feet and lege below the knee* were bare t and as they stood erect—the shorter of the two at leatt six feet in height—they pretentod both a stately and graceful appearance. The chief, who spoke English, after saluting tho captain and officers, explained that thsv had come from the coast to the northward, pointing in that direction, and mentioning some unpronounceable came, " Me, de king broder," he went on j "de king good fren' to Queen Victoria [this name he pronounced correctly 3 ; king and queen should bo good fren'—dat berry good ting. Den no war. Bbery ting go right. Queen Victoria say hab no mo 1 slabe. Bend him ship for eatehen slabe-ehfp. Makee custom toooattking for no tell slabs to bad whito fellar. Dat berry good too. But bad king, he takes custom, sell slabe all same/ Dat no good, bis berry time, on de coast d&r, t'oder side ob do Cape [meaning Cape Biafra], two ships fo takee slabe on board, what king go for sell, lessenger come across for tell de king, my broder. S'posc m&n-o'-war ship go, makee quick time, den dey catch him bo't—all right." The chief meotjoned the name* of the tribe and king to whom ho alluded ; hot I have forgotten both. Our captain, howerer, was doubtful whether to act upon such intelligence. That it was true, be thought, was very probable; and it w&* well known that from no love of Queen Victoria, but from hatred and jealousy of ono another, the kings and chiefs of one tribe would iaform agai&st another, with the treble object of gratifying their own animosity, affecting a regard for her Britannic Majesty and the fc?*atr, and reaping a reward for the information in cose a capture should 00 made. It was certainly a great object to capture two elarer*: and that the slavers were on the coast there was little doubt. The question was, in the first place, whether wo should be able to find them—the geographical knowledge of the natives not being very accurate, and whether they would not be off before we could arrive at the designated spot; and in the second place, whether it might not be a ruse to draw uioff from the station, that the king and chiefs who professed so much friendship for Q.ueen Victoria might meanwhUe play a little game to their own advantage 5 such tricks being by no means unfrequent. " Can I be sure that you are telling me tbe truth P" said the captaiu j and can I find the river of which you speak from the vague description jou have given, if your information be correct?" "'lis do truf, tali captain," replied the chief; "me nnkeo know the coast right well, s'pone me sea him." "Then you will act as our pilot, and get good ' custom,* suppose we make a capture ?" Somewhat to our surprise, tho chiof readily offered to stay on board and pilot the ship, or rather point out the river in which the slavers lay, when tho ship should arrive off that part of the coast. Still suspecting somo trick from this very promptness, and thinking it possible that, after all, the chief who had not spoken might be the real headman and the k'ng's brother, the captain insisted that both tho chiefs should remain on board, he promising to bring them back again to Fernando Po. Tbii, after some little hesitation, they agreed to; and no longer doubtful, the captain ordered the anchor to be weighed and set tail immediately. The chiefs gave wine orders to their own people, and the canoe was paddled awi«y 1 and in less than half an hour the ship was under foil sail, standing out" of the bay before the land breeie. Shortly before dark the next day we reached the spot indicated by the chief, who pointed out tho entrance of a | narrow winding river, in which, he laid, the ; messenger who had cros.'ed overland declared | the slaters were lying. It was neooasary to . out the vestals out by means of a nighti attack with boats, or to await their coming I out of the river and capture them i but then, in the latter oase, they would be sure to hear of our presence, and to come out without slaves, and probably laden with some trifling cargo, like honest traders, in which oase we could do nothing with ' them ', to, though the former plan was hazardous, it was decided ujon. As eojn as darkness set fairly in, the pinnaoe and first j cutter were armed and manued and despatched up tho river, ono of the chiof 1 accompanying each boat. The river was very winding, and so narrow that there was often hardly room to pull the oars. It woe evident that tho veiwtt must be small and of light draught, and must have been towed op the rivor, if they were really there, which we began to doubt. The night was vary dark. The shores were rrterihy in soiue places, in others lined with dense forest, and as we pulled silently along, the m-filed oars making no noise, and no one speaking, save when the officer* gsve somo order in a scarcely audible whisper, while (he night wind ii|h«d mournfully ainidat the trees, the scene was dismal enough. For a full hour we had pulled in this fashion, hoping at every fresh bend in the river, to discover the veisels of which we were in search, 3et seebg nothing! and at last the offi-er in command was inclined to return. ,( They have nev»r been hew, or tbey are gone," he whispered. *• Full lilly bit more, sab, you catch *#m," replied tho chief. H I think i see a tmml'i masts, sirthere, just agetmt that streak of light is the sky," whispered the bow-oar's-man, who had been ordered to look out. '" Yes 1 it is so," answered the lieutenant 1 " now, my lads, have your pistol* ready | butt don't lire, unless we are fired upon. Be ready with your ouiitsse*. The vemels lie in; the next bend. We'll pull softly round, and then dash along* side."

The cutter waa in the rear. Tha pinnace lay by till aha came up, and tha same ordere were repeated to the officer in charge Silently we pullod round the point. Krary tarn held hii breath, though he panted wiih <tjtsitement, Fi»# winutee mora, aud we deaoriud the hull* and apara of two long iow echoonertt, awcaly a hundred yard* before ui. 'i ha boata appeared to be unaeeii ana unhf<*rd. " l'hoy dou't tee or hear ut," whiepered tha lieutenant i " we'll pull aoftfy up, aud board them in tha dark. 'Jhry'te no idea that there'* a man-of-war on the ooait, »od wo will catch the aooundrele eleeping." We were do*, fifty yarda from the veieoit, which lay aide by aide, in a aort of basin in the river, which widened in tbia epot to a breadth of 40 or 50 yardi The itara had made their appearance in the hitherto gloomy aky, and we oould clearly diacern the elav* pen* and hute on ebore. "tJiatl harki What ia that t" whiepered the lieutenant i " by jore 1 theyaeeua! Look! There ia a light on board the atarboard maeL On, my lade! Daih in with a cheer!" be crted aloud $ "hum for

pri«*mo»«y!" Hardly had he spoken tho words, when then cam* a blinding flash, followed by tho rimultan*ou* report of at least a doseu mu»k»U. Wo heerd tho bullet* plash in tho *ator ; like heavy rainj but no 000 appeared t 0 have beta hit. "On, a* lade I Ho eeoreoy now. Ho qttarter tilt tbey •urreoderr* cried the lieutenant, In a few moment* both boats wore alongside the schooner*, and the sailor* sprang, cutlass la hand, on to their desks. " Surrender, lit the Queen's noma I " orUd the lieutenant la oommand. "We surrender 1" answered a voiee in broken XngUth, whioh, however, to my fancy, had a very TanktAed aocsnt. There was no further attempt at reslstaooe, which, fa fact, had been madness, for they well knew the boats would not bare made the attack unlet* they wsre well supported outside, and resittonoe to a »hin-of war wee punishable by death, while otherwise, the vessels only would be wised. The prise* were our* t and they were sent to It Helena for adjudication, where they were very profit, ably told for the benefit of the captor*, lite slaves, four hundred and thirty is number, were in pens on shore, and they were tent to Liberia, and there released, to become d*nl»*ns of that then new Bepublio. "How dared yon fire at Her Majesty's boat* at nil P" demanded the lieutenant. "It was not I, but the foot ot an officer on desk," replied the captain, who, though I veritably believe he was an American, professed to ba a For. tngueie. "Lucky for you, no barm was done," was the reply. There was mischief done, however, though at the time no one was aware of it. It was determined to send one boat back to the ship, and to keep tho other, tho pinnaoe, alongside till daylight, and the crew were ordered out of her, The men had got into the boat again, expecting to return to the ship, and they returatd to the schooner, at the oommand of the officer—all but one. That one was the teeond chief, who had never atirred from hi* seat in the pinnace. There ho still sat, in his white ||erb, erect ,and tiient. " Come out of the bcatl" repeated the officer. Still the chief never stirred. " Ask tbo fellow why he does out come out of tho boat 1" said the officer t;o one of the tailors. The man shook him roughly by the (boulder, and told him to mount to the deck. The hitherto erect body fell over on its ride. " Ah, *ir, the shot dead," said the tailor 1 "there's blood runnin' from hi* breast, and •teinin' hie whito dress.' "I* it possible?" exclaimed the lieutenant, hastening into the boat. A very cursory examination told that such was the cam. Conspicuous in his white robe, the poor fellow, who was in the foremost boat, bad made a good mark for the men on board the slaver, and » bullet had entered his breast, killing him instantly, This was the only casualty we met with in capturing the matt profitable prize we eeoured during our cruise i and a* it did not bofal one of our men, it was not charged against the captoins of the slavers, who got off with th* loss or their vestal* and all tha property on board. At the earnest request of the head chief, however, who'was deeply grieved at the death of his companion, the body was taken on board the ship and sent back to the country to which the unfortunate negro bo* The rioop-of-war, however, did not return immediately j and the chief, with the reward he had earned and the dead body of his friend, returned home in another vessel.