A STATE BANQUET IN MADAGASCAR.

Lyttelton Times, Volume LIX, Issue 6870, 7 March 1883, Page 3

A STATE BANQUET IN MADAGASCAR.

(Chambers' Journal.) "Mr Frost, yon are wanted for duty with the Admiral this afternoon, sir,” was announced with a grin by old Blowhard, our venerable Quarter-master. “ That’s rather a kill-joy for you,” sang out a voice from a neighbouring cabin, owned by o—, my opposite number. For the benefit of the uninitiated, it may be os well to explain that one’s “ opposite number” is the man who keeps the "opposite” watch, or next watch but one, to one's self, and consequently the man to exchange duty with. Truly, it was rather a kill-joy, for 0— had undertaken my duty that day, and I had made every preparation for an expedition to the marshes after duok. I was soon enlightened as to the nature of the duty by a supplementary order brought by the midihipmau of the watch, rad delivered In what little Beokford thought a really bffioer-like stylo. "Tail-coats, epaulettes, white waistcoats, and swords, is the rig for officers going on shore with the Admiral, eir,” said Beokford. “ What’s it for, Becky ? ” I asked. "Oh! a feed, 1 believe, sir, with eome of the nigger e wells by which 1 understood Mr Beokford to intimate that I was to attend the Admiral to a state banquet given to him by the representatives of the Hova Government at Tamatafre, Our good craft H.M.S. Who’s Afraid had oast anchor in Tamatave Bay, Madagascar, a day or two before; and toward* the end of as jolly a cruise as ever ship had the good fortune to sail; Tamatave being one of the last places we had to call at in the cooler and more southerly latitudes, before running up into warmer regions again. Most of our hearts and some of out pockets stood eadly in need of repair. I was in the pitiable condition of suffering from both. Daring the few days we had been lying in Tamatave Bay, I had found time for a cruise of inspection on shore, and had succeeded in discovering good chances of making a fairish bag of duok in the marshes. I had subsequently made all (be necessary arrangements with my "opposite number” for a free afternoon, when, as I have jiut described, my pleasant anticipations were shattered at one fell swoop by old Blowhard opening the wardroom door behind me and making the announcement already recorded. I believe, judging by the happy expression the old wretch wore, that he took a malicious pleasure in extinguishing the one bright spot in my otherwise gloomy prospects. Hall-past three u an awful time for a square meal; but the Hova Government are evidently not of Sydney Smith’s opinion with regard to lunch being " an insult to one’s breakfast, rad an injury to one’s dinner,” and had fixed upon an hour which heaped inanlt rad injury on every other meal of the day. There was no shirking {(; and half-past two sawn* all arrayed in our " war-paint,” packed in boats, and towed ashore by the steam pinnace. It was a lovely afternoon in the cool season, with a light southerly monsoon blowing, rad a regular fleecy trade wind eky. About twenty minutes steaming of the sturdy little pinnace brought us to the principal landing place of the chief town on the west coast ol Madagascar. It was apparently a grand day amongst the inhabitants of Tamatave. A large crowd of those who had nothing better to do had assembled on the strand to sea the Admiral and (as toe newspapers have it) his numerous and brilliant staff. Those “ who have nothing better to do” seem to form the major part of the population of an African town. The costumes of the natives k simple and inexpensive } not being an artist, I cannot say whether it in picturesque, but I should say it was cool enough. It struck one that (he inteltelligent Mriagssh had flung himself headforemost into a grass-cloth pillow-case, rad had succeeded in boring bis round woolly black head through the closed end of it and in poking his arms out at (he sides. Comparing, however, their costume* with our heavy blue oloth and gold lace, I was bound to admit that the natives in that respect were really toe more civilised race of the two. Standing on the hot sand under a biasing sun, in the same dress we are accustomed to wear in the Channel, made ue feel very "Turkishbatby,” and posfessed of less wisdom than our dusky bietoren. All that was to bo seen of the great city from the landing-place was a row of huts, with a wooden building kept %s a restaurant by an enterprising Bourbonese. But in front of the row of huts was a sight which the natives thought could not fail to strike even u* with awe. It was the guard of honour 1 The men composing it were drawn np in line fading us, rad as the Admiral stepped out of the boat, they went through their performance in grand style. They were a guard representing, I imagine, all toe militiiry forces of the island, for they were dressed in every conceivable uniform—cavalry, hussar, artillery, grenadier. Even a marine uniform wu in the ranks. They wore rigged out in cast-off English uniforms. Trousers seemed to have been issued only as a mark of distinction, for they were not universally wow. I thought it a doubtful benefit, comparing the temperature of Madagascar with that of the country they had been originally meant lor. The arms seem to bare been provided on the principle on which a boy coueota postage-stamp*, namely, to get a* many different eorta u possible. The most impressive part of the proceedings wu the salute. The commanding officer stepped out and yelled hie orders in English. (Ihis wai psrhap* meant hi compliment to the British Admiral, or resulted from to* foot that* retired eorgean t of our army bad been instrno-tor-in-ohief to toe Madagascar army).

“ffilenes in the ranks!” ha bellowed forth. No talking was going on at tho Urns } if there had been, the order would not bare been understood, being given in English; but I suspect, as Jack says,," It's in their gunnerybook, and they has to say it,” ” Hoar rank, take opia ordab i ” was nest yelled out. There wasn’t any rear rank, so 1 don’t know how the commanding officer got this order executed. As there was so appearance of a hitch anywhere, and he made no pause, it was apparently dona to his entire satisfaction; and the next moment he sung out, “Shoddah urns I Present urns I ” and the Tower musket, the old flint look, the ebassepfit, the double* barrelled gae*pip», the German gun, and the rest of the oolleoUon, earns up to the ” Fra* sent” more or lesc together. The Admiral returned the salute with an Immovable face. He loved a joke, and had as keen an eye for the ludicrous as most people i 10 the command of his countenance must have cost him an effort.

The scene of our banqueting was come way off, and the Governor bad provided chairs and the usual team of four bearers for each officer, to convey us from the landing-place. These chairs are simply seats with a back, which are secured to long poles, and a small board slung underneath to rest the feet on. Tho bearers are fine sturdy fellows j and the distance and pace they go at are limply marvellous, especially when one considers the simple fare they jive on. Our read lay along the principal street, which rnne the whole length of the town. The houses on each side are nearly all onestoried wooden houses, occupied by French residents from Mauritius and Bourbon. They seamed cheerful, clean, and tidy little homes enough. Our mode of progression may be an every-day sight to these good folks 5 but the sight of an English Admiral and all his officers in full fig carried shoulder-high an apparently nothing hut two long poles, struck me as rather comical.

As we approached the entrance to an old and rather dilapidated-looking fort, a coated native dashed past os to turn out the guard stationed by the narrow passage through which we were to enter the courtyard. The guard consisted of - one men in the uniform 'of a dragoon, but without trousers, followed by another with a sword, as officer of tho guard. The latter seemed rather put out that his guard was so small, but determined to do bis best before the foreigners, and make up for the smallness of the guard by the extra grandeur of h«s > orders. The guard visibly trembled at the sight of us, but the officer was equal to the occasion. “Silence in the ranks! ” he roared out, standing on the right of the aentinel, and putting his mouth aboot an inch or two from the poor fellow's ear. “ Bear rank, take opin ordah! ” ho next shrieked out to the unhappy warrior. The sentry stood the yelling in his ear pretty well, and at the third order, “Sboddah urns! ” he threw his old gas-pipe about iu capital style. When the salute was over, the order for the other part of him to take close order was given, and the guard dismissed. He looked a happier man, and retired into the kennel which was his guard-house with the air of having done something to deserve well of his country. We alighted in a courtyard just inside the walls, and a narrow Sight of steps brought us into a mud-built room over the fort. It was a very long, low room, with few windows. The table was spread for between twenty and thirty guests, and I could not help meditating prospectively on its stuffiness when all should he present. We were received by the Governor, who, with a princess of the blood-royal, did the honours. She was a stout, cheery little body, with curly hair, nearly white, who spoke French perfectly, having, I believe, been educated in France. The Minuter for Foreign Affairs of the Hova government had come down from the capital to meet the Admiral, and was also there to receive him. Madagascar is rather strangely divided into two races—the Hovaa and the Sakalavas. The former ire recognised by as as the ruling race, and their government is held responsible in all dealings and treaties with our government. The Hovas are not, however, entirely masters of the island, for the Sakalavas hold a great deal of the southern and western parts of it ; but they must eventually come under the Hova rule, for the latter, in place of being divided into innumerable tribes, are united under their Queen Banavalamanjaka, and are certainly making rapid stride* in civilisation. The Governor of Tamatave, the judge and other officials, the principal inhabitants, cur Consul, a missionary gentleman, and ourselves completed the party. The Hova gentlemen were dressed in sober black of Parisian fashion of a former date. We were received as if we had been entering a European Court, our host* bowing profusely. A few of the Hova offioiali could apeak a little French; one could even speak a little English as well —he was, 1 think, the Minister for Foreign Affairs.

The usual introductions being over—a thoroughly British method of shaking hands was adopted—small-talk, and very difficult small-talk* was attempted. Bnglishy-Frenoh and Madagascar/-French don't fit in at all well j so, after a few remarks which we neither of us understood, my Hova friend and I dropped into a mutually accommodating plan of "Oui, oui,” and a smile after each other's stuttering attempts. After some interesting conversation of this description, we took onr seats, or rather stood behind them; for, as a sort of preliminary grace, the healths of Queens Victoria and Banavalamanjaka were proposed. Certainly the good folks in Madagascar are more loyal than wa are ; there is much greater merit in thinking of one's Queen when huagry before a meal, than after it, when one is usually—that is, if the dinner has been a good one—rather inclined to think well, and kindly of aU. The toast was received by all with loud applause, though the liqueur in which it was drunk was poured out ot a bottle looking suspiciously like " hair oil,” and tasted like a mixture of lime-juice and glycerine. The health-drinking over, we settled down to the real business of the day. The Governor sat at one end of the table, and the other end was pretty well filled by the fat jovial little Princess —Julio by name.. There was a long pause after the soup, and an uneasy stir was perceptible amongst our hosts. There was an occasional inquiry from the Governor, and a message sent off by a slave) but with no satisfactory result. Our laboured attempts at polite and easy conversation made every minute seem on hour, for even " Oui, oui,” grew a trifle uninteresting, after being repeated a few hundred times. Things most have been looking serious indeed; for in about ten minutes, the Governor despatched the Chief Justice to the kitohen to discover the cause of the delay. He returned from his mission looking very Monk, and no ray ot hope cheered the heart of the Governor. Punishment is severe and summary in Madagascar, and I trembled for the fata of the cook and his staff. Another local swell, a species of Lord Mayor, was next sent pasting down to the kitohen, but he returned ere long, having been as unsuccessful as the Chief Justice. There was a decided hitch somewhere; and I was beginning to congratulate myself on a happy escape, when the fat little princess jumped off her seat, and accompanied by the Minister for foreign Affairs, toddled out of the room, no doubt making for the kitchen, to discover the cause of the delay, Either her charms bad been irresistible, or the Minister for Foreign Affaire bad taken up a very decided "stand ao nonsense" sort of tone with the head of the culinary department, for they returned triumphant in a few minutes. They each headed a column of blacks who streamed into the room after them, bearing huge dishes on which lay enormous roast turkeys, geese, docks, and guinea-fowls. The number of dtshee was something stupendous. After the first detachment had deposited their burden* ota the table, there was a slight confusion, for there was no room for the second instalment which was being carried In by the next column off slaves. However, by dintof squeezing and shoving, they were all located, and. roast animals per guest were provided by our h^.*hSr^rM t xt. slaves bustled about, before us. The various dishes were, IbeUeye excellent, all cooked in the French style j but S?could not get over ajcertain nervous feeling about them—an Englishmen.is so absurdly qusamish about his food, (By the

way, I presently discovered that the cause of the delay in the appearance of oar second coarse bad been a block in the street between the French restaurant where the dinner was cooked, and the banqueting hall; a most probable occurrence, seeing the crowd of slaves who were employed to bring the viands.) Wo were pretty merry in spite of all; and as our remarks maid not be understood except by tho Minister for Foreign Affairs, who was well away from my part of the table, we managed to indulge in a little innocent chaff. Our harmless prattle was flowing smoothly, when suddenly a crash was heard in the courtyard below, which almost lifted us off our seats, and mads us look wildly round the table an 1 at each other, to And out what on earth it could mean. The crash wee followed by a braying, drumming, and shrieking, as if three renimeots of drums and fifes and about fifty buglers ware all practising their several calls at the same time, entirely independent of each ot her. I wondered if they had designs on bringing the roast turkeys, Ac., back to life. When we bad recovered from the first shock of the thing, we could trace the faintest suspicion of a tune rnonisg through it. One of ns, who affected an ear for music, pronounced it to be an attempt at “God Save the Queen.” We loyally stool up. It west on fur an unconscionable timej but at length they stopped—--1 thought for want of wind. Before starting for this entertainment, the Admiral, who is an awful old wag himself, had tola us very solemnly that there was to he no laughing, and that pur deportment was to he one of great gravity and decorum. It was a precious severe trial of our discipline in this respect when after a short pause the band set up a more hideous bray then ever, and when, at the end of the performance, we heard him remark very blandly: “Ah! that’s very pretty, very pretty indeed. What is the name of thi* pjeoo ? ” Jo which his Exeelleney of the Foreign portfolio replied: "Him no got proper came; him only Mala gash tune.”

The “ Malaga* h tune,” mercifully varied with » few “ brillietnt flashes of silence,” wig recamed and continued till the period for the toasting and speechifying arrived. The little princess left the end of the table—as a sign, I suppose, that the ladies had with* drawn—ana took her place next to our Consul in a semi-official capacity as interpreter; and most efficiently did she perform that office. Our Consul made the first speech, and, os far as my knowledge of French would allow me to judge, it seemed a particularly good one. He bad to pause every now and then to allow the little Princess to translate what he had been saying into the Hova language. The speechifying being over, the pitiless band again pealed forth its terrible thunder; but as soon as politeness would allow, the Admiral, to our infinite delight, made a move to go. Wo found our “four-in-hands” in attendance, (topping the way below. The bearers, no doubt, bad been enjoying the dulcet strains of their native music while we were at table.

We were on board again by seven. It had been something entirely new, and something to fill a letter home withs so, though 1 had missed my duck-shooting, I was not alto* gather sorry 1 had gone.