OSTRICH HUNTING IN THE CORDILLERAS OF PATAGONIA.

Lyttelton Times, Volume LIII, Issue 5932, 1 March 1880, Page 6

OSTRICH HUNTING IN THE CORDILLERAS OF PATAGONIA.

(The FiM.) For three weeks we had been marching under a broiling sun over the endless Pampas —a dreary desolate waste, with not even a tree or shrub to break the hideous sameness. The eyes tired under the straur inflicted by the immensity of endless rolling Pampas, and the perpetual and vast herds of guanaco which were always crossing our line of march became more and; more An occasional rifle shot, and a headlong scamper after a wounded buck with the dogs would perhaps scatter one herd, but only to bo quickly succeeded by another many thouaands m number. How these denizens of the Patagonian Pampas exist is a mystery, for the supply of dry brown grass seems hardly equal to the demand; but not only do theylive well, but, in the case of the does, they grow enormously fat. In crossing the Pampas we came across the Patagonians themselves, who have been described as giants, bloodthirsty cannibals, and what not. In reality, however, they are very harmless, and, most peacefully, and hospitably inclined towards., strangers. The Tehuelobes, as they are called, are certainly of great stature, measuring often as much as six feet four inches, with enormous muscular development. Their vioes are few, and their good qualities , many, among the former, thieving and love of drink are Paramount, and the hot fiery vitriol with which they are supplied by the Chilian traders is fast diminishing their numbers. We paid; them a visit in their camp, when they surrounded us in crowds, examining everything with the greatest curiosity, from our boots to our rifles; Lady B. was an object of special curiosity to them, for, with the exception of a few mottled Chilians, they hod never before seen a white woman. They returned our visit next day, which was a bore, as, we wanted to press onbesides, which, as long as they remained we could not leave the doors or our tents, the most skilful London pickpocket being as. nothing compared to a Tehuelobe Indian; However, new we had got far beyond their country, and after, twenty-one days of marching over the desolate Pampas, wo had at last reached the goal of . our i ambition. The peaks of the mighty, Cordilleras rosc . right above us, peaks of no name and unknown height, all snow-clad, and girdled round theirbases with splendid gorges and beautifully wooded valleys, which no human footstep had ever trodden. It seemed like fairyland, and the transformation from the flat, monotonous Pampas was the more pleasing as we had arrived among tbehiilS 'the .evening before in a dense mist, in which our guidei lost themselves, and we camped that, night without even knowing that we had quitted the plains. A lovely sunrise next morning revealed to us our whereabouts, [ and, breakfasting early, we determined to push on again as far as possible into the lulls and shut out the plains, which stretched like e huge rolling ocean behind us. As, however, we did cot know if there was any gams among the mountains,-it was necessary first to lay in a supply of meat, at any rate; for a few days. Wild horses abounded on the rocky steeps, but so long as wo could get ostrich and guanaco we did not feel inclined to eat them. - Of the millions of guanaco which herd on the plains there were very few up so high. However, Dixie, with Gregorio, one, of the Qaucho guides, went off to sea what they could get. Lady B. and myself, together with Francois, our chief hunter, went with his greyhounds to try_ and get an ostrich, the flesh of which is capital eating, especially the wings when well roasted on a stake. This “ ostrich,” which abounds on the Patagonian plains, is the Rhea Darwinii, and much smaller than its African cousin. It is, however, much hunted on account of its feathers, and, together with: the gnanaco, forms tho. staple food of .the Indians. Brangois’s, -greyhounds were the best in the camp, one, La Leona, especially so. She was a little red greyhound, crossed between the Scottish staghound and English greyhound, and with great speed the also combined all the strength and endurance of her Scottish sire. Looa was a; smaller greyhound, of pure English breed, possessed of great speed, but, not having sufficient strength to poll an ostrich down single-handed, was always running herself to n standstill.- A third dog also accompanied us; he belongedto nobody in particular, but Lad followed us from Sandy, Point. Lady B. took a great fancy to him, and he was allowed to live with the rest of the pack. He was a great white and black dog, of immense power; his speed was not great, but he was very useful in pulling down big game. He rejoiced in the name of “Episounia,” after the tribe of Indians ha came.from ; however, he was never called anything but “ Tieco.” It was a tremendously hot morning when we left the camp ; the whole air seemed quivering with heat. Away, far below, rolled the immense prairie, dotted all over with herds of guanaco, which were feeding in thousands. However, we did not mean to trouble them. What we wanted was an ostrich; but ostriches, like many other things, are not always to be found when wanted. Francois thought the most likely place would be among the valleys at the base of the hills, besides which he did not wish to leave the vicinity of water, which, after a long run under a hot sun, is absolutely necessary for the dogs. On and on we rode for several miles, keeping along the base of the hills, every valley of which was carefully reconnoitred, as to get within reach of an ostrich requires a great dep.l of manoeuvring. Bramjois rode slightly ahead, tho cl ■ sclustering behind his horse’s heels, Lady F. and myself bringing up the rear, often halting to admire the lovely scenery among which we were riding. Suddenly, after ascending a little hillock, stopped short, and, bending over his horse’s neck, came back to us. Crouching flat bn opr horses, and keeping the now excited dogs in our rear, we crept round the base of the little hill. Before us, lazily feeding in a beautiful green valley, was a troop of from fourteen to sixteen ostriches. Some were on the ground, their long necks curved back, basking in the sun, while others were strolling about, lazily picking up any stray insect to he found. ' With a wild yell Brangois galloped forward, swinging hts bolas and cheering on his dogs. The startled group, without one moment’s hesitation, ore off like the wind; scattering as they go, some making for the hills, while others turn their heads for the plains below. Like an arrow from a bow Leona is away ; quick at starting, she has gained quite two lengths on Loca, and is now straining her utmost to come up with an old mole, who, late at starting, is some yards behind the rest. He is making up for his lost ground, however, and, with bis neck outstretched and wings slightly elevated, is running straight for tjhe hills. Up and down the sides of jgreen grassy hillocks, over watercourses and large fallen trees, he holds his own. The little Indian horses, eager as tigers, gallop on at full speed some way in rear of the dogs; clever as cats, (hey climb and descend the hills at a gallop, and in the most rough and rooky ground never make a mistake. That was a good attempt of Leona’s as she raced alongside ; but a mouthful of feathers is all she gets for h' ■ pains, as the mighty bird, dropping his wings, doubles sharp to the right. Thrown put by her attempt, Leona now gives place to Loca, and (belittle black drives the ostrich dpwnthe side of the hill into a plateau below. Beaching the level ground seme dozen yards in front of the black, the ostrich scuds away over the sandy plain faster than before; but, fast as he may go, Loca goes faster, and half wily across races alongside, making a vicious drive at the wings. Doubling sharp to the left, the great bird avoids the attack, but Leona now is . coming up, and, running with wonderful gameness, the little red forges, alongside. Side by side, Leona and Looa now strain together ; the ostrich i* getting puzzled, but he is nob beaten, and still keeps on at a-tremendous speed, uttering every now and again a peculiar booming cry, which indicates mischief. Gathering herself together, Leona makes a savage drive at the wings, and succeeds this time in getting a hold; but the ostrich is an old male, strong a« a horse, and, with the little red clinging to him, still struggles oh. The stmn, however, is too great, and the efforts of the great bird to relieve himself of his persecutor, added .to } the effort!, of tho bitch ig : pull; him down,

raise clouds of duet as |B *j^ g uif .ta*.. um this only adds to tbo rag* . him double terror and rage * ,teep incline, ! let Imp ouiy«t» hiftWoienoand he may yotrld bmieou T^ e UP in the rear < White head of Tisoo fotffts. ■ , h f always outpaced eomo n ow tIS etrain on ing bur horses for a last effort, we g P W lt has been a tiring B "{J’ of the great heat, more so forthehoMestlum for the dogs, and the poor little bewt. are sadly blown. Having Wen the tos^ohs neok, Francois turned his attention to the dogs, a mountain torrent bemg oonvementk ,handy. Looa’s.feot are out to ribbons, and, what with the heat, sand, and feathers, sho w nearly choking. - While Framjisco bimed himself in washing dogsV mouths and slackening tho horses’girths, b turned to look at the great bird. He was a fine old male, with nearly all his feathera. and must have weighed altogether .something _over 801 b. Lying down under the shade of some _Anarctic beeches, I lit my pipe, while Lady F. amused herself by puUmg the feathers out of Tißco’o mouth. The horses strayed away feeding among the rich green grass, while the dogs lay themselves down contentedly in the - middle of the stream- Itwas time, however, !to return to the camp, which we did slowly. Dixie had returned after ktlhqg a deer and a guanaco, also reporting that the former were plentiful among the ‘ hills, as also swarms or wildfowl. So now; being amply provisioned for a week or ten days, we decided on at once penetrating into. the lofty range beyond us. : Over our camp fire that night we sat rather late, making our plans and questioning our. guides as.to our route. . / Of this, however, : they were' as ourselves, none' ever having penetrated beyond this great barrier. Vf not starve, however, 1 as among the; hill! Dixie had seen lakee and lagoons, swarming with wildfowl; deer also, according to what he had seep, seemed to abound { and so it was light , hearts that we retired to our beds in the pure open air. ’ Night had set,in;hut the sun !tm left a rosy opal tint on the lofty peaks. Myriads of stars were shining in the . blue vault above, the southern cross being right over our heads. Our watch fires burned brightly, and beyond and all around rose to tho blue, rose-tinted heavens the mighty range of the Cordilleras, their' snow-clad summits standing out in bold relief against the fast darkening sky. Lying wrapped, up in my guanaco robe, with my feet to the fire, I thought of the happy chance which had brought us here, instead of, as was originally intended, crossing the dismal Pampas to the lagoons of Santa Cruz, and as my pipe burned out I went to sleep, and so ended our first day in the Cordilleras of Patagonia.