LOSS OF THE CANTERBURY ROAD PARTY IN LAKE BRUNNER.

Lyttelton Times, Volume XX, Issue 1129, 5 September 1863, Page 3

LOSS OF THE CANTERBURY ROAD PARTY IN LAKE BRUNNER.

[from the 'nelson examiner,' SEPT. I.]

We publish the following journal, kept by James Belgrave Hamniett, one of Mr. Howitt's party, which was despatched by the .Canterbury Government for the purpose of cutting a track by way of Lake Brunner, to the West Coast of that province. The party consisted of Mr. Howitt and five working hands, namely, Hammett, Garland, H. Mullis, R. Little, and Fred. They left Canterbury on the Ist January, 1863, and, until the commencement of the following portion of the journal, nothing of very striking consequence occurred. Garland and Fred left the party after they had been a short time out and returned to Canterbury. The Darkey spoken of below was a negro. He was not of Mr. Howitt's party, and was first seen when, after the death of Mr. Whitcombe, some of Mr. Howitt's party, on going across the plain to send back their horses to Canterbury by Mr. Whitcombe's man before the rainy season commenced, saw him in the bush, and, in kindness, conveyed him across the lake to their watti, gave him his supper, and a sufficiency of provisions to take liim back across the hills to Canterbury. They advised him to do this, as they had heard that the Maoris were short of food, and impressed upon him, that, for his own safety, he should leave at once, so as to pass the hills before snow should fall. He started, as it was presumed, to follow their advice, but, instead of going as directed, made his way for the diggings. The next seen of him was when, on the lltli June, he was found in the watti, as stated in the journal. Hammett has been very considerately treated by the Superintendent of Nelson, who supplied him money and a passage, per the steamer Ladybird, to Canterbury. We hope that,, when he arrives in the latter province, its Government will give him a substantial reward for his long, laborious, and most praiseworthy search for the bodies of his chief and his other companions, as well as some compensation for the many sufferings which he appears so heroically to have endured. JOUENAL OF HAMMETT. Tuesday, June 2nd.—Cut to the Hohono creek, and found it impossible to make a track by this line. The place is but one deep gully. We are heading about W. by S. Wednesday, June 3.—Fine weather. Commenced cutting another line more to the north. Found a great many gullies, but can avoid them by going a little more to the north. Thursday, June 4.—Shifted camp as far as we had cut, and again cut ahead for the Hohono creekj which we could plainly hear. Met with very good bush flats, and the route seems a likely one. Friday, June s.—Line nearly cut through to the lake. No rain, but the bush very wet. Tuesday, June 9.—Have been cutting at track since the sth. Very wet to-day. Could not get outside the tent. Am heartily sick of being so continually wet through. Thursday, June 11.—Bob and I working at the track. Harry and Mr. Howitt went to the watti with the canoe for flour. On returning to the camp we found they had brought the Darkey with them, whom they had found camped at the watti. When asked what he was doing there, he said he was very sick; yet he had eaten about forty pounds of flour, besides plenty of tea and sugar. We have now left only 100 pounds oi flour. ' Mr. Howitt says he had a hard job to get the Darkey to leave the place and come on with him. The fellow made long faces to me and Bob, but we told him that we had been round Cape Horn too many times for him to play on us, and I proposed setting Judge Lynch to try him, and punish him as he deserved. We said that sick or well he would have to travel with us in the morning, as we were going to the beach to see if there were any stores there yet to be had. We waited to be clear of him, for he must have been in the watti for, at least, three weeks, to have eaten as much as he had done. Friday, June 12—Shifted camp. We drove the Darkey on to the track, aid, when there, Mr. Howitt and I went ahead as the fellow travelled so slowly. Bob and Harry were behind bringing up the rest of the things. When they came to us we asked for the Darkey, but they had not seen him. We put down our swags, and went in search for hiin. Found him under a tree in the bush, but off the track, where he had gone and lay down, no doubt with the intention of again going back had he got clear of us. Bob and I took from him his swag and, dividing it between us,; told him that, if he did not willingly walk on, we would tie his hands and drive him along: We thus got him as far as the Hohono creek and. then camped. 4 Saturday, June 13.—Started this morning for the beach leaving Harry to finish the track. Bob and I carried the Darkey's swag and our own, and making him keep with' us, we got within four miles of the diggings and camped.

Sunday, June 14.—1t began to rain but we started, and, when we got to the diggings, found that they had been deserted and that all the Maoris had left. There were no means by which we could go down the river, so we had to take the bush for it as far as the beach. Left the Darkey at the diggings with about ten pounds of flour and some tea and sugar, and told him we would ask the Maoris to come up and fetch him. Mr. Howitt charged him £2 for what he had eaten when away from lis. Camped in the evening when about half way to the beach. Monday, June 16.—Grot down f o the beach at the mouth of the river (Teramakau) at about dinner time, and then went along the beach to the Grey, about ten iniles distant. Overtook three Maoris before we got there, and they told us there was nui nui the Jcai kai at the Grey. Walked on and saw the masts of two vessels in the river. We felt sure there was " Balm in Gilead." Went to the Government store, where Mr. Townsend made us very welcome. Got a good feed actually of beef and potatoes—what a treat. Bob went on board the Crest of the Wave and slept all night. m , _ .. Tuesday, June 16.—Rained hard all day. The Emerald Isle left to-day for the South. Wednesday, June 17.—Still raining heavily. Wind N.E. I told Mr. Howitt that Bob and I would like to know if there were any chance of getting flour from Capt. Buxton ? He said yes, and we got 1200 lbs., at 22s per hundred. Thursday, June 18.—The Maoris say wft cannot cross the Pouera river yet. Bob and I helping u> put up our store. Weather fine.

Friday, June 19—At daylight, started with Maoris along the beach for the Teramakau. "When we had reached the Pouera, we found it almost impassable. We stripped, and, carrying our swags on our heads, with the water neck high, succeeded in crossing. It was very bad walking. We got some things from the store. Saturday, June 20.—Simon and Peter, two Maoris, take us up the river to-day, for which Mr. Howitt promises to pay ten shillings. We each got a kit of potatoes, and with them reached the diggings, where we stopped. Sent the Darky down by the returning canoe. Sunday, June 21.—Started for home again. Got there about dark, and found Harry all right.

Monday, June 22.—Finished all we had to do here. Weather line.

Tuesday, June 23. —Started again for Lake Brunner. Got there in the afternoon.

Friday, June 20.—Yesterday, Wednesday, and to-day all hands at the track.

Saturday, June 27.—Mr. Howitt, Bob, and Harry started across the lake with the canoe to fetch some flour, and also with the intention of going to the Arnold to catch eels. They left the compass with me, so that 1 should walk over the best line I could find for a track.

Sunday, June 28.—Earning and blowing hard from the S.E. . , , Monday, June 29.—Weather fine again. Wind strong. lam cutting a line round the lake. They have not yet coflae back.

Tuesday, June 30. —Fine dry weather. Wind S.W. and blowing freshly. Continued cutting the track. Mr. Howitt not vet returned. Begin to xeel uneasy about them. "Have had no companion but my dog for the last four days. Wednesday, July 1. —Fine dry weather. I went down to the lake to try if I could seo the canoe. Go tup a tree but could see no sign of her. Went back to the tent tor my blankets, I having determined to walk round the lake, fearing something may have happened. Lett a note in the tent stating where I had gone, in case I might miss them. I went as far as tho Little Hohono creek, and camped there for the night. Thursday, July 2.—Boiled up my blankets and waded round the lake, as far as I could, towards the Arnold river. At times I was up to my arm-pits. 1 made a rait of some old logs so that 1 might on them get as lar as JL saw some white pine standing. I went some distance, and as it wa9 getting dork, I hauled my raft up and camped. I had yet seen no sign of them. Friday, July 3. —Started again. On going round a bend of the lake near the mouth of the Hohono I saw something lying on the beach, which, to my dismay, on reaching it, proved to be Mr. Howitt's swag rolled up in the little calico tent which We used for travelling With ; this, bj preventing the blanket from becoming soaked with water, had been blown on shore. I searched all round but I could seo nothing else. I have therefore every_ reason for supposing that the canoe sunk with them during the strong wind that has been blowing. The canoe was but #-

of green wood and floated scurcely three inches out of the water in smooth weather. 1 took the swag along with me to my watti, made a fire to dry the papers and camped there. It rained heavily, Saturday, July 4.—Still raining heavily. Started round the lake again, towards the Arnold. Saw no sign of smoke in any direction, no portion of the canoe, nothing which indicated that Mr. Howitt and my mates were alive. I made fast the raft at the mouth of the river, and went down along its bank. I saw they had been there, because their bobs and lines were there. I made myself a bit of a hut with some flax, and camped till morning. Still raining very heavily, and the lake fast rising. I saw no other sign save that I have stated, which showed Miv Howitt had been here. Sunday, July s.—Eain still continues. After a most miserable, sleepless night, I started on my lonely way back to my camp. It blew strongly from the S.E., or I should have tried to get across the mouth of the Arnold. I did not, however, try it, because I could get no soundings with my pole, and feared the current and the wind together would drive me down the river. I had to pole a long way to get back to my watti for something to eat. Got back about dark, made my raft-fast, and lay down to sleep. It was impossible to get any fire, everything was so saturated with wet.

Monday, July 6.—Eain still pouring down as if the gates of heaven were opened for another flood. Water nearly half way up to the posits of the viatti. Had to content myself with flour mixed with cold water and a little sugar. I was, indeed, most thankful for that, for had we not left a little flour and tea here, to carry us back over the saddle, I must- have starved, as every place is flooded, thus rendering it impossible to get to the Grey, or even to the bush to look for woodhens. All the low land is flooded, so. I must make my little stock of- flour spin out as long as I can; it is all I have to depend upon, and there is no telling how long this weather will last. Tuesday, July' 7. —llaih pouring as hard as ever. I feel lonely,, miserable, and cold indeed. No fire. Nothing to eat save a little flour and cold water. To tell all'the imaginings which are continually passing through my mind would do no good. Frequently, during the past few days, while sitting in this down-pouring rain, and while perfectly awake, have I fancied that I could see Mr. Howitt and the others walking towards me, first in one direction and then in another. By an effort I have shook off this depressing dullness, and have then spoken with my faithful dog, as though it was a Christian. Again I wonder whether I shall be enabled to recover the bodies, that I may be enabled to give them burial in a place which I may be enabled to point out to their surviving friends. No human being can conceive my almost maddening thoughts. If it should please God that I become insane, what will become of me ?

Wednesday, July B.—Still raining heavily. Thursday, July 9, —Still raining, though not quite so heavily as it has done. I fancy the lake has lowered a little, but I must still content myself with my same fare. No means of getting a fire. There seems, however, now some prospect of its clearing. No sign of smoke anywhere around the lake.

Friday, July 10.—Still raining. The lake falls but slowly. Saturday, July 11.—The lake lowered a little during the night. Wind has shifted more to the S.E., but there is such a quantity of water backed up by the lake being so high that but little difference can be perceived in the depth of water. Thank God I have managed to light a fire. I can now get a drop of warm tea to warm me. I am chilled throughout. Sunday, July 12.—There seems to be some little prospect of the weather becoming fine to-day. Wind working round to the E., and this generally brings fine weather. I walked round the lake to a point to try if I could see anything. As far as the eye could reach I could discover nothing of Mr. Howitt and. the others. I fear they are lying at the bottom of the lake. Monday, July 13. —Fine easterly weather. The lake falling. My raft so soddened with water that it will hardly float, so I walked round the edge of the lake in the bush opposite to where I picked up the swag, but saw no sign of the canoe. I feel very anxious to recover their bodies if they are drowned, and keep myself on as short rations as I can, to allow me to stay and do so. I fear their bodies must be entangled in some of the trees sunk in the lake, for I have lost all hope of their being alive, or they would have made their way round here for food long before this. Tuesday, July 14 —Towards evening rain again commenced.

Wednesday, July 15.—Earning as hard as ever all day, and bitterly cold. Thursday, July 16.—Kain and snow. All the hills are covered. I have now a worse prospect than before, for my raft is water-logged, and I must make another one before I move from here. I manage to keep my fire in. Friday and Saturday.—lt rained these days without ceasing. JLake nfiaxly up to its former, height again. Sunday, July 19. —Raining, but not quite so heavily. Monday, July 20.—Weather looks as though it had broken. Took my raft round to a swamp where there is some white pine, so that I m&y ih&ke another one and get away, for my flour is nearly done, and I can get no more till I reach the Grey river. Tuesday, July 21—Still fine. Made another raft, and, having the old one in the swamp, I went round again in my new raft towards the Arnold, to see if I could discover anything more of Mr. Howitt and the party before I finally left, as my flour was done, and I must try and get to the beach, for I was a long way from it, and I had done all that one solitary man, left in a wilderness as I was, could do to search for the bodies of his lost companions. Necessity now compelled me to look to myself. Wednesday, July 22.—1 wrote a notice and nailed it to one of the posts of the watti, stating what I presumed to have-happened, and that I was gone to the beach, it being then impossible to cross over by the saddle. Thursday, July 23.—Went round the lake again, but no sign of anyone either living or dead. Friday, July 24.—Started with my good old dog on my lonely way. I find it weary work paddling my raft, and the water is so deep I cannot get bottom with my pole. I got back to the Little Hohono creek, and made my raft fast. I have now lost all hope of ever seeing my companions any more. Saturday, July 25.—Left the raft in the creek, and started through the bush for the camp on the lake. Got there, and found everything as I had left it when I went away. Sunday, July 26.—Dried my blanket and the little tent, intending to start for the Buller diggings in the morning, feeling now confident that Mr. Howitt and the others had perished, for I had been on the lake twenty-three days, and had seen no sign of any living person. They would have made a raft if they could not have walked, and must have been here before this if still living. Monday, July 27. —Took my blanket and a shift of clothes, Mr. Howitt's tin of maps and papers, and started for the diggings. Got about five miles, and camped, as both my feet began to swell like a person with the dropsy. This was through having been in the water so long. Tuesday, July 28.—Started again, and got as far as the big HohonO river, and camped. It is raining. Wednesday, July 29.—1t is still raining, but I must plod along, for there is nothing to eat in this waste, and I cannot travel very fast. Went up the big creek to the dividing saddle, and camped.. Thursday, July 30.—A strong, frosty wind. Got down to the junction of the Green-stone creek. Friday, July 31.—Reached the Teramakau diggings, and, to my sorrow, found that everbody had left but the day before. The ashes of the fire were still warm. Found flour in Simon's ivhare, and stopped there all night.

Saturday, August I.—There is no knowing when the Maoris will be back, and I must push on while the fine weather lasts, as I have to walk through the most horrible bush that I have seen to get down to the beach. It is but six miles, yet a man could walk twenty-six better and easier. Got about four miles down, and then found myself so knocked up, I could walk no farther. Each foot is now as big as my head. Sunday, August 2,—1 am, thank God, on the beach at last,. I saw Maoris here, who were very kind to me, and gave me some tea and dinner. .Simon told me that Mr. Sharon was on the other side of the- river. I was happy to hear this, and got Simon toput me across. Ip going up the lagoon we met him. He was in a fine large canoe he had built, and was shooting. I got into his canoe and went with him to his whare. Glad enough was Ito see some one I could speak to. I staid at his whare all night. He told me his brother and some of his men had taken some flour to Watakft, but that when they returned he would send them with me in his canoe forty miles up the river, and that they should see me safe over the saddle; in the meantime, I was to stay with him, m I could scarcely walk.' This was exceedingly kind.

Monday, August 3.—Baining. How lucky I think myself in having got even thus tar in safety. _ _ Tuesday, August 4.—-Thick weather and rain.. I find my feet very sore. l-can'scarcely stand on them. August s.—Fine weather. I proposed going up to the Grey, but Mr. Sharon said there would be a fresh in the Paroa, and that I had better stop another day. _ . , Thursday, August o.—Two Maoris gave me bills to give to Mr. Wyld, they having heard that Mr. Howitt was dead. The Maories told me that Pete* and a white man were going to start from the Grey for the Buller on the following day, so that I started at once for. the Grey, to try and overtake them that night. I tried to get a Maori to go with me as far as the Paroa, which is a very rapid river, between the; Teramakau and the Grey. I promised him ten shiUings,: but. it being night, he was afraid to go, bo I Btarted alone, and got td the river at about one; o'clock in the morning. The stream ran so fast that I thought it safer to wait till daylight. I made a fire on the beach, and ky down till

morning l . It was very dark. I intended to make a raft i if I could not ford the river. Friday, August 7. —Weather fine. Between ten and eleven, when about to cross the river, I saw two men coming towards me. They were Mr. Townsend and the ' chief Terapue, who were coming down to assist me up to the Grey. The old chief immediately rushed into the water, and carried my swag over, and he then wanted to carry me, but I preferred walking across, keeping hold of his hand. I had often heard what a fine old man the chief Terapue was: I proved it. I firmly belie\ ehe would risk, his life or share his last potato for any white man, without thought of recompense. Arrived at the Government store, Mr. Townsend made me very welcome. Saw Peter, who was going to the Buller, with some others. Saturday, August B.—Feeling my feet very sore, I induced the Maoris to wait until Monday, by getting Mr. Townsend to give them goods to the amount of £1 out of the store, and to charge the same to me. The day ended with rain. Sunday, August 9.—Still raining. Got stores ready for starting to-morrow. I gave Mr. Townsend what things I had saved of Mr. Howitt's. I also gave him an account of things on the road, and these he handed to a Maori to carry to the Buller and transmit to the Canterbury Government, I being unable to carry them, and being desirous to hand them over to a representative of the Government. Monday, August 10.—Commenced with a heavy rain and strong wind. We got Terapue to put us across the Grey, and then commenced our journey. Walked about six miles, and then camped at Waimatuku. Tuesday, August 11.—Started again as soon as the tide was low enough. Squally, rainy weather. Some very bad places to get round. Sometimes the surf rolled in completely over us.. We had to jump from rock to rock, or run as the surf receded. Walked about ten miles, and found the tide coming in so strongly that we camped at a place called Kareroa. Wednesday, August 12.—Started again. Climbed up a ledge of rocks to get into the bush, being unable to get round a point. Came on to blow from N. W., and rained. Camped at Pakeroa. Thursday, August 13.—Bained hard during the night. Dried our things by the fire, and again started along a fine sandy beach till we came to a large rocky cliff, which we climbed by means of flax-ropes, put there by the Maoris; we then crossed a large stream, and went into the bush about a mile; then came down to the beach again, and crossed another stream, where we saw a fine ship's jollyboat lying on the beach. Friday, August 14—Fine weather. Did some very rough climbing ronnd the points of the cliffs. Impossible to get along with shoes on, so that you must either have pararas, or walk in your stockings. Came to a very large cave, three or four chains long, and camped there. Saturday, August 15.—Saturday about three o'clock, a.m., with a fire-stick, so as to cross a very large and rapid stream at low water. Crossed the stream, and lay down in the bush till daylight. Then walked for some distance over rocks, and took to the bush, first climbing one hill, then another. Kept the bush all day, there being about fifteen miles where you cannot follow the beach, the water washing up to the face of the cliff. Came out on the beach again, and crossed another stream, and then camped for the night. Sunday, August 16.—Fine pleasant morning. Walked about three miles along the beach until we came to another stream where we camped till evening, it being too deep to cross until low water. We crossed, went about four miles farther, and camped for the night. Monday, August 17.—Strong showers of rain but having eaten our last morsel of bread, hunger compelled us to face it, we being still a long day's journey from the Buller, and having to walk over five miles of the worst track I have yet seen. We had to jump from one rock to another until I found myself so weak that I was compelled to rest several times, and thus my companions got I a long way ahead of me. Knowing they were hungry I did not complain* 'At length losing sight of them, and being unable to discover any sign of their tracks, I took one of my blankets to make myself some shelter, feeling so tired and weak that I cared not whether I died or lived, for since the loss of my companions I had been miserable, lonely, and wet, and felt as though life had but few charms for me. My dog is with the Maories ahead of me. Tuesday, August 18. —Began pleasantly and was very clear, but I must lie where 1 am for a few days as I have the diarrhoea so bad that I can scarcely stir; and, although I have neither food nor tea, I feel no anxiety about it as I do not feel hungry in the least. Wednesday, August 19.—T0 make my lonely situation even more desolate it has set in to rain in torrents, so that lam deprived of even the comfort of a fire. Haying lost my knife in clambering over the rocks I have nothing, with which to cut anything to shelter me from the'rain. Thursday, August 20.—Still raining in torrents. My blankets and I are saturated. All that I can do is to stand in this pitiless rain, which can make me no wetter, and watch the surf as it rolls towards my feet. It is impossible to get a fire. I have caught two wood-hens, for, as God sent the ravens to feed Elijah, even so these two birds came where I was, and my faithful dog, which had returned to me, caught them for me. lam thus provided with food for a day or two, and, if I can manage a fire, I will cook tWm, it not I must even eat them raw. I live in hope that the weather will clear, as the wind has changed. My faithful dog, how serviceable in many ways have you been to me! Friday, August 21.—Got up during the night and managed to light a lire. Stewed my birds and some sea anemones, and had a good ineal, which much refreshed me. After this, though my blankets were wet through, I slept as soundly as could a monarch on his royal couch. Saturday, August 22.—Commenced again to rain during the night, and has every appearanceof continuing, so that, considering I have still a duty to perform, I must try and reach the Buller while I have strength to walk. I may as well get wet in walking as in lyingdown, I cannot be far from the Buller, for I saw a steamer's smoke on Monday last, and a vessel lying-to in the bay to-day, so I left one blanket, which I had used for a tent, and started ; and after travelling about for some time, I luckily found the track, and saw four men coming along the beach towards me; but they stopped when they saw me, and commenced to hurrah, as though they were in search of me. This proved to be the case, for, when I got up to them; they were making a fire to boil some tea for me. They said they were the second party who had been in search of me, and it was feared that I had been either drowned or starved, as they had been told that this was the sixth day, I had been without food. They were furnished with provisions for several days by Mr. Waite, Buller River Hotel, and were to continue their 'search for me, and try and ascertain if I were still living. I was happy to think I was once more near Christians, and I gladly partook of the food they had brought with them. They also gave me a glass of brandy, which I much needed, as I was still wet through and had been so for several days. After a rest and a good feed one of the party kindly carried my swag, and we went to the Buller, where I found a boat manned by volunteers, waiting to take me across the river. Mr. Waite took me to his house, and desired me to make myself comfortable. I told Mr. Waite how I was situated, and he kindly told me to remain at his house, and that he would pay my passage to Nelson by the first opportunity, and also give me a letter to the Superintendent to assist me on my way to Canterbury. Everybody behaved most kindly to me. All the diggers and others shook hands with me as soon as I was landed, and seemed to sympathise with me very much. The doctor (Mr. Husband) offered me his services, and altogether I felt as though I was in another August 23.—Squally weather and rain. Thank God, I am once more among civilized men, and have both food and shelter. Monday, August 24.—Begins with light showers. Ihe schooner commenced discharging to-day, so that if the weather proves fair, I hope soon to be once more on my way to Canterbury. Tuesday, August 25.—Fine warm weather, and the place all alive with Maories preparing to load their canoes for the different diggings. A great many diggers are waiting here to proceed up the river so soon as the weather settles. Wednesday, Angust 26.—Fine pleaaant weather. About seven o'clock our vessel got under weigh. Mr. Waite went on board with me, and paid my passage. She tripped her anohor, and the bar being smooth, she was soon outside in a Thank God, I am once more on my journey, and no Swag -to carry on my back. Saturday, August 29.—Got into Nelson early this morning. v