LADIES' COLUMN.

Lake County Press, Issue 2697, 30 August 1917, Page 2

LADIES' COLUMN.

FASHION AND THINGS FEMININE.

By IDA MELLER.

(Copyright.) HOME DRESSMAKING HINTS

In lining coats,- it is usual for tin ' lining to bo cut on the coat pattern seamed and placed in position witl tho raw edges of seams, that is t< say, the wrong side of lining, next th( coat material, so that the reverse oi tho coat is quite neat. Full-length coats are sometimes lined only throughout the bodice and sleeves. Tho seams of the coat are then neatly finished on the, reverse, iho raw * edges of material beinu; bound with sarcenet, after tho seams are opened out and pressed, or snipped in notches to prevent fraying. Tho fronts of coats are generally faced inwards with their own material and interlined with canvas, to keep them taut.

A WINTER DRESSINC-COWN. For winter dressing-gowns, Mollet.on and Pyrenees flannel, and cashmere of a 'thick quality, lender generous service. The new fancy flannels are very attractive, and some of the latest dressing-gowns are so smartly made that they have almost tho air of morning frocks. Of course, the simplest pattern for a dressing-gown is the kimono, and consequently this is one of the most popular shapes, for the home dressmaker dearly loves simplicity. A great many dressing-gowns for the winter are of plain, coloured flannel or cashmere, bordered with fancy gimp; others reverse the order of things, and are of fancv flannel, with a plain bordering. Tho waists are girdled, and are, of course, quite loose-fitting. There are, howeve.', smarter styles arranged with bodice and skirt cut separately and joined at the waist; but the loose coat-shape is really the most practical one for a dressing-gown. The newest fashions show the employment of velveteen in the service of dressing-gowns, a deep shade of

Venetian red and navy blue being veil mud. favoured. The velveteen dress -'oun is really not an extravagance crT unlined, it will go through th wash again and again. A detachabk hi as far as the waist (mcluding sleeve linings) should be supplied, as Uio gown wUI be very, much more coir, fortablo if the bodice is lined. Our illustration shows a veiy goou dosiou for a winter dressing-gown to e made of fancy flannel, with collar and cuffs faced with plain flannel or washing silk: The design is absolutely simple tu»d workable. The gown is cut veT wide so that it wraps well ove. theVt side if desired or It may harm straieht The waist should be girdled ?;« with a sash and the sleeves and bUce waist should be lined The sleeves, it will be observed, are put in ones, and are not cut in one with the gown.

PARTY FROCK FOR A LITTLE CIRL.

Most little girls old enough to go to parties will, no. doubt, be wanting a party frock during the holidays, and BE isign illustrated may in their choice of a frock for testno wear for their little daughters, since it is easy to make up and exactly the style to suit girls of any ago between six and ten yearn. Jap silk, crepon, or Shantung might bo used for tho development of the frock. Very voung children are better suited with white or cream than with bright colours, but the frock might be made

up in pink, blue, or yellow for a girl of nine or ten years of age. Tlie tucked bodice and the skirt are joined at the waist, where both are eased. The skirt,' which is finished with a couple of small lucks above the hem (these are useful for letting out as the child grows) is unlined, but the bodice should have a. lining of cambric or some such soft material. A lace collar run with ribbon trims tho neck, and tho short sleeves are also finished witl ribbon-run lace at the elbows. CUTTINC OUT THE PATTERN. The. paper pattern of tho frock is in eight parts, namely, half tho skirt, hall the front of bodice, one back of bodice. i one sleeve, half the waist-band, out ' cuff-band, half the front bodice-lining ' one back lining.

A diagram has been prepared to aid tlie home dressmaker when cutting out the pattern. For a child of about six or seven years of.age. 2i yards of 3(5 inch Stuff will be required. There must be no seam along the front of the skirt or front of bodice, hence the straight front edges of these patterns must be laid to a fold of material, the silk, crepe, or whatever stuff is used, being folded to half its width. As, however, the material wilLnot then be wide enough to take the whole of the skirt pattern, pieces must be joined on 10 the skirt at the back to eke out width. The other pattern pieces of the frock are laid upon the material opened out to its full width and then doubled, each part being cut in duplicate. A space is marked out for the lacking pieces oi the skirt, and care must bo taken that these are cut and seamed to the skirt on the straight. ' The two pattern pieces of the bodice lining are also shown. These can be cut from one yard of 23 inch stuff. MAKING THE FROCK. In making the skirt, join the necessary pieces in such a way that no raw edges of material are visible on the wrong side —make seams, in fact, as for lingerie. Leave the necessary placet, make the tucks and hem, and ease the skirt at the top to the waistband to which the bodice is also sewn after' it has been tucked and mado up. The waist-band should finally be backed witli a piece of lining, or with its own material cut from the waste of stuff. The "bodice, gathered slightly at the neck, must bo mounted to its lining, and the latter is cut with front darts. The back edges of bodice are turned in and provided with hooks and eyes and sarcenet facings, and the neck is made neat with a'similar facing. The sleeves are sewn to cuff-bands and the shoulderseams are bound with sarcenet. A sash is worn with the frock, and a back view of the latter is seen in the small sketch.