ROAMING THE SOUTH SEAS

Huntly Press and District Gazette, Volume XIX, 29 March 1932, Page 3

ROAMING THE SOUTH SEAS

BY

PAT O’SHAUNESSY

(Late Reporter “Irish Independence”) I had roamed the vast sweep of the South Seas, tarrying in Tahiti, the Marquesas, in the Fijio at Apia, and in the Tonga group, and after surveying these gardens of the Pacific, I came to my ideal in the fair archipelago of which Raratonga is the capital. Here British rule has developed together with courtesy among the natives, and established a tiny English colony apart from the world, a community sufficient to itself, happy

in its possession of a true Eden of the South Seas. Geographically, the Cook Islands are to the southern hemisphere what Hawaii is to the north, which means a perfect climate, not too lazily tropical, the colourful native life of the romantic Pacific and the genial social intercourse which a rarely hidden sun always fosters. New Zealand,

which I believe, holds the Cook Islands as a colonial possession here as definitely as she has thus far failed in Samoa; and that success is due in no small measure to the ability tact, and discernment of the present administrator of the group. In all the islands of the Pacific it would be difficult to find a white man in authority who is more beloved of the native race, or who enjoys their confidence in so great a degree as Judge H. F. Ayson. About noon, the fifth day out from Wellington, we arrived otT the little port of Avarua, capital of the Cook Islands. The sharp peaks of Raratonga, their bases almost at the water’s edge, cut into a deep sapphire sky, and the surf flashes along one of the finest white sand beaches in the South Seas. The ship dropped anchor on the coral reef and a trim

cutter, the New Zealand flag at its stern, manned by a dozen sturdy Polynesians in British naval uniforms came alongside, and officials of the port in immaculate drill and pipeclayed helmets came aboard to admit us cordially to an English colony in the South Seas. Landing of passengers and goods at Rarotonga is a proceeding sometimes fraught with a good deal of uncertainty. The steamer must anchor out side the little harbour which is sufficient a trading schooner or two, and indeed if there is a heavy sea on it may be impossible to land at all. The ship rises and falls on the long Pacific swell while the shore beats bob about alarmingly at the foot of the gangway, and timid passengers shudder and gasp as they watch for a chance to leap aboard. Finally when the small boats were filled, we were taken in tow by a diminutive motor launch, while the helmsman strove with long sweeps to maintain an alignment. There was general relief when the tiny jetty w as reached and many willing hands assisted us ashore. Most of the island population was on hand, of course, for the monthly steamer day is Raratonga’s festive occasion. There was much to be seen and discussed in the appearance and prob-

auie i uipuac ui vioivuio, ... nature of goods which had arrived for the island shops, and more than all, in the character of the monthly supply of movie films for the Rarotonga cinema. Then, too, this is the occasion of reunions and renewals of acquaintances among Europeans and islanders alike, the monthly holiday when everyone meets in town quite as at Papeete or Apia. About the little village of Avarua in the neatness of its homes and the attractiveness of its shops, in the cleanliness and alertness and obvious content of its natives, there is immediate and unmistakeable evidence of a rule that is at once beneficient and practical. One encounters here the Britisher of the clean cut, energetic, wholeecme type that has colonised successfully England’s far-scattered possessions and proven its right to that honourable characterisation “pioneer of Empire.” Fact, judgment and altruism mark administration under Judge Ayson and Customs Collector Tailby. Again here in the Cook group there is demonstrated the wisdom of a limited prohibitory regime in the distribution of alcoholic liquor.", as concerns the South Sea Islands. Permanent white resident! only arc permitted a small quantity monthly, but no native is allowed any at all, and the manufacture of any

beverage having marked alcohol content is punishable. The marked difference in the condition of the native in the Cook group and those in Tahiti declares unmistakably the wisdom of such an arrangement The introduction of alco- ' >1 to the Polynesian race and its disbution among the natives of the uth Sea islands is one of the worst ts in the history of inter racial re■ons, and from the very date of t introduction the deterioration of of the finest of all races has been steady and unchecked. The climate of Cook Islands—named after the most noted of all South Sea explorers, although he is said never to have visited the group—is one of the ideal ones of the world. The days are those of a mild summer in northern latitudes and the nights resemble those of spring or autumn in the New Zealand North Island. The trade wind is rarely stilled and the precipitation, scattered in brief showers throughout the entire year, is sufficient to preserve the foliage of ? Krc en rich as England’s. Fruit is abundant, and the annual shipment cf oranges to New Zealand, exceeds in normal times, 100,000 cases. This is t he chief industry of the group and it is carefully supervised by the New Zealand Government. There is, of course, that certain joghistication about the life of Raro-

} tonga, and the neighbouring 1 islands ever inseparable from British rule in any part of the world. Convention in seme measure at least is an inevI itable feature of English atmosphere anywhere, and its presence in Raro--1 tonga marks a striking difference ’ between life there and life in nearby I Tahiti, 40 hours sail distant. To the lover of Tahiti, Rarotonga is lacking in the picturesque, in freedom from all restraint and regimen, and impaired by “colour line,” racial distinctions and civilised influences. , These things arc, of course, to a large extent, matters of opinion. Few residents in Rarotonga would exchange with Tahiti, and certainly in the latter island that feeling is reciprocated. But the delightful life of this little white colony, so sufficient unto itself, is very appealing, and to the “dyed-in-the-wool” Englishman almost ideal. One feature of the economic life of the Cook Islands, worthy of note is the absence of Chinese competition. The group is one of the few in the Pacific, perhaps the only one where there is never as Asiatic to be seen The native, therefore, is not burdened with the weight of Chinese competition in every activity, nor threatened with ultimate Chinese commercial dominance as in Tahiti. The result is that he is independent upon his own efforts and resourcefulness to maintain himself, and that makes for his greater industry and self-respect. Moreover, he does not, as so often in the French islands, get into the economic clutches of alien race and rc-

main there. English rule is notable for its attention to the interests of the native peoples of all the colonial possessions, and its encouragement of their endeavours to aid themselves, and this is especially marked in Rarotonga. The facilities of education in the Cook Islands are not less adequate than those in New Zealand or Austral ia. and the results arc apparent on every hand. Native labourers are paid a living wage, and no one at all suiters for lack of the essentials of existence. The outcome is a contented native population, and as we drove along through fairy-like scenery with Judge Ayson and others,' I was struck by the neat and self-respecting aspect of the people and the immaculate appearance of their vallages. Even more gratifying was their manner toward their administrator. Everyone from the children to the aged, had a smile and a courteous bow for “the judge," and he never failed to resi pond. That is the way it should be; and must be if an administration is to be a success. Unfortunately, though, I have encountered in my tours of many foreign and British countries, very few men like Judge Ayson. On returning to Avarua after our tour, my companion and I sought out Judge Ayson, and after introducing ourselves as two reporters seeking information and history concerning Rarotonga, were cordially invited to his home. After tea, chairs were placed on the veranda and all of us settled down in anticipation of glean-

ing a little more knowledge to add to our supply. From the Cook Islands the Maori race came to New Zealand, perhaps a thousand years ago, before the Pacific Ocean had revealed its existence to the Old World, before the Norman had invaded Britain. It was one of the most remarkable race migrations in history, or tradition, and what motivated it, no man can say. Possibly it was that “evolutionary appetite” which Shaw declares the impelling influence in all human quests into the unknown; the yearning to find out what lies beyond one’s immediate horizon, the urge to pit one’s power against elemental and unknown forces. Such aspirations are those of no mean race, and a dozen centuries ago, cr perhaps forty, the islands of the Pacific were peopled by men of high courage. Upon their horizons had appeared never a sail and there was naught but the sea as far as their canoes could journey. Yet they were not satisfied. There must be something more, and since the winds blew usually toward the south, there before them lay the open way. The canoes that they built were such canoes as no man since has ever seen. Speeding up the latitudinal ladder today cn route from Rarotonga to Wellington in July or August or September cn our well equipped and comfortable mail steamer, we wondered at the courage and the incredible deter-

mination of that ancient race, the Maori of those long past days. We entered the harbour of “windy Wellington” where the gusts from the Antarctic fling themselves upon this far-set outpost of an empire, and shiv- •: r at the thought of the half clad native of the South Seas in his unprotected canoes. Yet he came and survived, and laid the foundation of a great Dominion, to which ultimately the white man attained, and found it good. To greatly altered conditions the indomitable savage adapted himself, thrived and was happy. Now and then making an incredible return voyage, he told his brothers of wondrous things in the new land, such marvels, as mountain and valley and wayside in lakes of boiling water, and steam that came out of the ground, provided, no doubt by some “Great Spirit” that man’s labours might be cased, and bathing and cooking done without preparation, be it summer or winter. Thus the Cook Islander discovered and developed New Zealand, unsurpassed in charm and beauty among all the colonial possessions of a farflung empire. Candidly, in my opinion, his great achievement should never be forgotten. After our interview with the Administrator that night, Eddie Reynolds (my companion) and myself decided to spend the night ashore,

and make arrangements as to W’hich place we would next turn our wandering footsteps, and after much arguing decided on Port Darwin (Australia) via Samoa. Next morning we made our way down to the pier and came to an agreement with Mr W. Everett, skipper and owmer of the 90 ton trading schooner, “Muriel Ilaycs” which w’as sailing for Samoa at noon that day.