NORTH TARANAKI.

Hawera & Normanby Star, Volume LXXII, Issue LXXII, 24 May 1917, Page 6

NORTH TARANAKI.

A TRIP TO AWAKINO

(By Fifty-One.)

Although a Taranaki boy, pure and .simple, I have reluctantly to admit that beyond the towns along the coastline from Waitara "to Patea, and those adjacent to the Mountain road, a considerable portion of the province is a terra incognita to me. What is more, I believe I am correct in the assertion that a large majority of Taranakians are no better informed than myself as to the nature of the country, the conditions -that orevail, and the beauty spots that exist "not far from the coast. Holidaymakers invariably seek some well-known resort, or perhaps prefer a visit to busy cities rather than venture on a tour of inspection to localities that do not bear the impress of the Tourist Department. The opportunity was afforded me at the beginning of this month of taking a holiday, and I decided on visiting the country to the north, making Awakino my headquarters. Leaving Waitara at 9 o'clock by motor car. . well loaded •with passengers, mails, luggage, and a thousand and one articles for distribution along the road, the journey, after innumerable stoppages, ends at Awakino about 4.3o—sometimes earlier, . sometimes later, according to the condition of Mount Messenger. The journey from Awakino to Waitara is done much quicker, as there is little or no delay in delivering parcels, etc.; the mails are mostly picked up when the car is on the move, in a manner somewhat similar to the railway tablet system. A word of -praise is due to the drivers for the care they take of tleir freights, and also the uniform courtesy shown. Now, as to the journey. After nego- • tiating the hill immediately on 1 aving Waitara, the road to the foot of Mount Messenger is, lor the most part, level, the scenery in the Urenui and Mimi valleys being particularly fine —pungas, nikaus, and other native shrubs forming a sight that cannot fail to gladden "the-heart of a townsman. At Utikn the outgoing and incoming cars meet, and a transference of passengers and cargo takes place. The trio over Mount Messenger is a somewhat trying one after heavy rain, and in order to give the cars a better grip of the road chains are, fastened round two of the tyres. The grade is really a good one, and the scenery most beautiful. Just about the summit there is a short tunnel with a church-like roof —in fact, it is called "The Church." Tongaporutu is reached, where a substantial dinner can be obtained at Mrs McKoy's* then on to Mokau, where the first and only great drawback to communication between Auckland and Taranaki by coastal road occurs. The Mokau river carries a good body of water at ordinary times, but during floods and when the tide is in it is a formidable v barrier. A punt is in use now, but this slow and unsatisfactory method of crossing is not at all in favor. When we arrived at the river's edge the punt was on the opposite side, and it took fully a quarter of an hour for the man in charge to reach us. To use a common expression, punting on the Mokau is slower than a funeral. Just fancy one man working a winch to get this cumbersome river boat to and fro. The man collects his threepences and looks happy, but the passengers—well, the censor would assert his authority were one to attempt to describe the language used. The punt is a double-barreled boat, with the bows and stern turned up and down stream, and the affair moves sideways like a crab. A bridge is sadly wanted, Four miles north of Mokau Awakino is reached. Here there is a store, boardinghouse, post office and public hall, with one or two private dwellings. A flax mill commenced operations while I was there, and the hum of the scutcher is quite a relief to the monotonous quiet that generally reigned. But Awakino is not always dull— Newton King has his sale days, when the surrounding settlers are largely in evidence, and prime beef and mutton changes hands with machine-gun rapidity. There was a sale while I was there, but it was on rather a small scale. The one previous, however, is said to have .cieated somewhat of a record for numbers and prices, the auctioneer being credited with landing a phenomenal commission. Then the settlers in and around Awakino have their patriotic days, and the nimble sixpence is gathered in and forwarded on to augment the funds for the benefit of onr soldiers. I went to look on at a dance whilst there, and though the men and women were not clothed in the orthodox ball costumes, they nevertheless enjoyed themselves equally as well as the city dwellers. The man with leggings and riding breeches was quite at home, and danced as gracefully as if lie sported a swallow-tail and patent leather pumps. The Maori man and maid were also there, and they could dance with the best of them. Being in the King Country, Awakino is dry— "very dry" at times. Before going further, it will be as well to state that I was the guest of Messrs W. and Alfred Black, whose residences are on the hill iust above the township, but who have "2000 acres thirteen miles inland. I rode ur» to this run with Mr W. Black, and was agreeably surprised at the fine grazing country * hilly no doubt, but ideal • sheep pasture. The road leading to this property, after crossing the bridge over the Awakino, runs for about a mile and a-half through' level land, then a fivemile ascent commences, the summit being 1400 feet above sea level. Looking around from this height, one sees the Mahoenui valley—splendid cattle fattening country; but, on the other hand, many hills (or, rather, young mountains) may be observed, where it looked almost impossible for a goat to climb. However, taking tne land all round, those settlers who survive the struggle generally associated with pioneer settlement in such inaccessible places, will be generously recompensed* for 'their liardihood. Black Bros' property is . nearly all limestone formation, and on it there are two caves—one much larger than the other. I was shown through the smaller one, and a more beautiful sight I never saw. The roof was studded with stalactites of all shapes and sizes, while the walls and bottom were equally resplondant. the whole being intensified by the brilliant display in the roof caused by glow-worms. "Tiie larger cave is full of similar beauty, and when I state that a whole candle is used in exploring it, some idea can be formed of its dimensions. No doubt ofner similar caves exist in the district, but so far the two mentioned are the only ones known, and they should at no distant date attract the" attention of tourists, as they are far more handy than the Waitomo caves. As a matter of fact, the country around Awakino offers special indu«eraents to fossil collector?, the hills being studded with the petrified remains of sea fish and shell, j In one spot alone dozens of shark's teeth were unearthed; and I saw a round stone broken open, inside which was the perfect form of a crab. Personally, 1 spent a glorious time^—the river teems with fish, and they could bej caught at high or low water ; quail are! very plentiful; pheasants scarce; whilei a rabbit may be shot at any time—that • is, provided one could hit him; some I £red at are still going.

I came across a little blackberry during my journeyings, but- what appears to trouble the "settlers up north most is the bush fern. Wherever any timber lies on the ground the fern springs up and spreads rapidly. In appearance it b much like the ordinary fern, but fortunately it is not deep-rooted. Then there is a plant known as the '/ink ' weed," which is causing some anxiety, as it seems to be spreading. If this weed is a menace, and the seed is carried from place to place by birds and in sheep's wool, then New Plymouth is smothered with it. So far as I could recognise the plant, it was originally grown in the flower garden, but having escaped from confinement is now having a good old time on broad acres.