A TRIP TO THE NORTH.

Hawera & Normanby Star, Volume X, Issue 1926, 10 May 1888, Page 2

A TRIP TO THE NORTH.

[BxH.L.j . While the Northern and Jubilee S.S. Companies are running opposition Bteamers, the fares are very low, and a trip to Whangarei (eighty miles north of Auckland) and back can be made for the trifling sum of £2. The following notes of the journey may be of interest to some of your readers : — Leaving New Plymouth by tbe Gairloch at about 11 p.m., we had a fine run of about fifteen hours to the Manukau. The only unpleasantness waß the continued howling of two babies and a young dog, which seemed to give annoyance to • everyone except their owners. Evening found us in the " beautiful city of the north," and I was much struck with the great- progress that has beeD made since my last visit, about three years ago. Since then many large buildings have gone up, the streets have V>een improved, the wharf haß been paved, and altogether there are on every hand signs of improvement. Notwithstanding this, Auckland, so as business and work is concerned, is as dull as ever it was, or is likely to be. Perhaps there is no class who feel the depression more than the sailors ; crowds of them are begging a passage away to other parts. Empty houses and shops are to be seen in every part of the city. Food is certainly very oheap. I saw the best cuts of beef sold retail at 3d ; sausages, 2d ; the 21b loaf, at 2£d ; and other things at equally low prices.

From Auckland we took passage by the prettiest model that ever steamed out of that harbor, viz., the Wellington. This boat was built in 1863, and is now the fastest for her size, as well as being one of the best sea boats in New Zealand. We steamed at the rate of about fourteen miles an hour to Wbangarei heads, and entered what may be called a most beautiful harbor; inside the heads it 'opens out to a few miles wide with islands here and there, and dwellings scattered along the shores. Twenty miles up the harbor brought us to the wharf, aud a journey of two miles by train over mud flats and mangrove brought us to the fast-rising town of Whangarei.

On the station I Baw Mr. Max. D. King, who is about starting business ; and during my stay I met Mr. and Mrs. Beresford, who wish to be kindly remembered to their many friends in these parts. Mr. Beresford will never regret leaving here, although when I saw him he was on the sick-list. He speaks highly of the climate, and believes it has a great future before it as a fruit-growing country. Oranges and lemons grow to perfection here, but the trees are not yet old enough to give them the proper flavor ; whilst apples grow beyond all belief. I heard of one tree which bore forty thousand apples last season.

On making enquiries we heard that the limestone caves, and Kauao coalfields could be visited before our steamer left, so after getting instructions we set out. I Bay • we ' for during my trip I was luckey enough to have the company of one of about my own age, and nothing adds 'more to the pleasure of an excursion of this than a pleasant companion, the miles pass by quickly, the hill tops are reached sooner, and altogether a lively chatty companion tends to lighten the way. The caves are on the property of Mr. Cloturrtly and were first explored by him a great many years ago. At his bouse we got one of his sons, a boy of about twelve years of age, to guide us to them ; a small stream runs into a cleft in the cliff, and this was the enterance to the caves. After proceeding a few yards it got dark and we had to light candles, the inside presenting a most beautiful appearance, glow worms crowd over the top giving it the appearance of stare in a clear midnight sky, huge stalictites of snowy whiteness hang from the walls, whilst down below oan be heard the trickling of the water. Oar guide took so many turns that we put him to a severe examination as to his ability to find the way back, which he said was unnecessary, as we could go through the hill, and come out a quarter of a mile away from the entrance. In some places the space was so small that we had to crawl on our hand? aud knees, and again it would open out, the top being thirty feet above us. After taking innumerable turnings, we were relieved to see a glimmer of daylight in front of us, and at last emerged from a small hole scarcely large enough fur a man to •mss through, the water coming out still further off through a still smaller bole. It whs with relief that we found ourselves once more in open air, and had no wish to repeat the journey again.

The school of forestry was next visited, where the Government are planting a piece of ground with New Zealand forest trees, which will be one of the prettiest Bpots in the island The Kamo coal mines next received our attention, where huge pumping gear is in work forcing the water out of the shaft. We had no desire to visit the bottom of the pit, as we had seen quite enough at the caves.

On our way back to town, we passed many large orange groves and some splendid orchards of all kinds of fruit.

Further on we passed an old gum field, and from enquiries I find that a short distance from Wbangarei a large number are employed collecting this material. The wages made appear to vary according to what luck the digger gets. I heard of £2 a week being made, whilst others can only earn half as much. The prices are coming ' down, as the supply is too great, and merchants are unable to ship jt away fast enough. Oyster collecting and fishing are carried on in the harbor, and a market can be found for all that can be got. Whangarei is about the size of Normanby, and a lively little place. They have a newspaper, a brass band, a dancing class ; and during my visit the hotels were full. And although the land is very poor and only fit f >v fruit growing, there appears to he more money in circulation than there is here with all our boast of rich soils.

On my way home I had the pleasure of hearing Miss Amy Sberwin sing. The Opera House was crowded every night, and noting seem to have attracted larger audiences than she has ever done. Her singing was of the high class description, but, not having the benefit of a high class musical education, I was unable to fully appreciate. Notwithstanding the dull times all amusements are well patronised. The roller skating rink is crowded every night, and moonlight excursions down the harbor are well attended. There are many other objects to be seen on the trip, but space forbids me to mention them ; but to any who have a week or two to spare, and wish to-do a little cheap travelling, I recommend the journey. mmm

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