Seasonal Gardening Notes

Hutt News, Volume XII, Issue 22, 17 November 1948, Page 13

Seasonal Gardening Notes

(By “HORTI.”)

The present season is a busy one for home gardeners. Growing crops require thinning and Weed ing, and sowings of beans, encumbers, marrow’s, and pumpkins sh ould be made. There is still time to sow’ seed for winter greens such as Savoy cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and curly kale. Tomato plants that have been damaged by high winds should b e replaced, for they seldom recover sufficiently to make good plants.

To Grow Gootl Celery

Probably there is no other vegetable which requires so rich a’ root run as the celery, and it depends almost entirely on the preparation of the trenches in which the celery is grown as to whether the results

will be as satisfactory as one expects. The days when it was possible to obtain a load of good stable manure have passed, and most gardeners have to look for a substitute to pro-

vide a satisfactory root, run for the plants. The compost heap is probably the answer, and a good dressing of, say, 4 inches of decayed compost

heap material, to which, if possible, some leaf mould or decayed leaves have been added should make a fairly good root run. Trenches should be

about 15 inches deep and tl’ie same in width. The bottom of the trench should be deeply forked. but not necessarily turned over, thus ensuring reasonable drainage before putting in the compost material leaves, or, 'if lucky, manure. When this is done cover with at least 4 inches of soil, but make sure that the soil comes from the surface and not from

the lower part of the trench. This is the fertile soil into which the young plants begin to root, and it is vital that it shall be sweet and en-

courage the quick formation of young roots. If purchasing young plants make sure that they are growing freely and have not become stunted or starved in the boxes, for once checked in this manner they never seem to recover when planted out

and will stand still for rather a long time.

To grow good celery/it is absolutely essential that the plants be kept growing freely right through the season, and feeding should begin early and go on until the end of the summer. Where one has no facilities for getting any manure at all, then one will have, to rely to a great extent on the use of soot water and dissolved fertilisers, but it is doubtful if these fertilisers are as good as the ordinary stable manure or compost heap material for encouraging the essential root action. All the same, many gardeners have grown fine crops of celery with a : complete fertiliser and the addition of dried sheep or fowl manure. When the trenches have been dug there is no reason why the soil on either side should not be used for quick-' maturing crops such as lettuce or radishes or anything, in fact, which comes into use quickly. Potato Spraying

Potato Wight is the cause of very considerable losses each year in our potato crop, particularly in the main crop. The disease is caused by a parasitic fungus which enters the tissues of the leaves and stems'from spores which are deposited on the surface of the plant. Blight is recognisable by brownish, soft areas which develop rapidly on the leaves and stems of the potato plant during moist weather. A delicate white mould can be observed on the underside of the leaves and surrounding the brown area where the atmosphere is moist. Blight is controlled by applying a protective spray to the plants before the disease has obtained a hold. Compounds of copper are the most satisfactory for dealing with potato blight, and are, in fact, the only materials at present in use for this purpose on a large scale. There are several proprietary copper fungicides on the market, and amateurs are advised to purchase one of these rather than experiment by trying to make a Bordeaux mixture which may scorch the foliage of the plants. It is important" when spraying to prevent blight to spray all the foliage, including the undersides of the leaves. Two or three sprayings may be made during the growing season. It is important to remember that blight spores may be washed from the infected tops into the soil and there infect the tubers. Ihe object of spraying is to prevent haulm infections, but it docs often happen that infection during the late summer still appears. If this is so the haulm or tops should be cut off and removed from the ground at least 14 days before the tubers are lifted, as this will ensure that there are no live spores on the surface of the ground to bring about infection at lifting time.

Chrysanthemums

large or exhibition blooms.)

Much could be written on details connected with this subject, of which the writer has had practical experience, but let it suffice to say that the

best results are obtained from generous treatment and watchful care, and though some gardeners may succeed better than others, it is not. because

there are any hidden secrets, but because they do the right thing at the proper time and leave the rest to nature. Some persons, in t.heir anxiety to succeed, appear to think that the more they can force a plant

the greater will be the return, forgetting that a plant, like a human being, requires only a sufficient quantity of food of the right description to build up health and vigour, all over and above this sufficiency being excess, and consequently injurious. Either the wood becomes too 'gross to be fruitful or the soil

is made repulsive to the roots, collapse follows sooner or later. If there is one thing more than another which tends to bring about those ills peculiar to the chrysanthemum I think it is the haphazard way the plants are often forced with rank

manures. I have come to the conclusion long ago that it is not that one manure is more potent than all others but much more important is the proper application of those that

we know to be good, only, using them with a view to assisting nature rather than forcing unnatural growth. When a plant is making satisfactory progress firm, short-jointed wood, with moderately green foliage, “all is

well.” Why endeavour to obtain wood and foliage twice the size and the latter more black than green, with the blooms either coming deformed or the petals pale in colour and soft in texture, being the first to damp off. The aim of the successful chrysanthemum grower should be to secure medium-sized,

short-jointed and well-ripened >vood ■ which are the essentials to produce the finest blooms. In January or February, when the buds are being taken, is a good time to assist the plants, as by this time the plants will have a good root system and a top-dressing will greatly assist in developing the buds. A mixture of half of good loam and> half of sheep or stable manure which should be mixed some time before it is wanted for use will be found to give excellent results. It is surprising how readily the yoiqng roots will take possession of this healthy feeding material. Regarding artificial fertilisers care should be exercised, but if it is' felt that a stimulant is necessary a good home-made mix can be made by mixing 5 parts superphosphate, 2 parts sulphate of potash, and 1 part sulphate of ammonia. Half a dessertspoon to a plant or one ounce to a gallon of water will be sufficient. If the season is wet I would use just sulphate of potash, a teaspoonful to the plant once a week. The other artificials can be given every 12 to 14 days. Should the conditions be hot and dry and the home-made mixture is used, it would be better to reverse the quantities of sulphate of potash and sul-. phate of ammonia. Speaking roughly, the potash hardens and the ammonia softens, and that is one reason why potash is used for finishing the stiffening of petal. In conclusion I may give a few words of caution-

(1) Never “coddle” the plant at any season of its growth, as this induces weakness and insect pests. (2) Do not attempt to grow more plants -than can he properly at-

tended to. (3) Never allow the plants to become dry at any time, especially

during hot weather. (4) Syringe the foliage of the plants

freely, especially after a hot

sunny day. (5) Spray with Black Leaf 4 0 and lime sulphur alternately each week. (6) Apply artificial manures very carefully.

If these plain instructions are properly carried out and no fads or fancies indulged in successful chrysanthemum culture will not only be found easy but will bring pleasure and brightness during the dullest season of the year.

(Notes on the form of culture of