The Home Garden

Hutt News, Volume 16, Issue 40, 31 March 1943, Page 4

The Home Garden

(By D. K. Pritchard, Instructor of Vegetable Culture, N.Z. Department of Agriculture, who writes for the Home Gardeners' column in the "N.Z. Journal of Agriculture.") COHKKCT CULTIVATION PROMOTES I HOTTER CHOPS The Soil In addition to weed destruction, cultivation will materially hell) towards the conservation of moisture in lhe soil, assist in the retention of plant, nutrients by preventing ieaching, particularly of valuable nil rales, enable plants to obtain more light and air, increase aeration of the soil, which, other things be,ng equal, will accelerate the rapid absorption of heat, and will create for the plants a more favourable environment in which to develop and jeconie less susceptible to disease attacks. In vegetable crop production it is advisable, and even necessary, that cultivation should begin just as soon as. is possible after the rows of seedlings—where seed has been sown — can be clearly traced, or when plants have become well established after setting. Undertaken at this stage of growth weeds will be more effectively and more economically destroyed than at any other period. Shallow cultivation is all that is necessary. If, for any reason, the operation is delayed, cultivating implements will require to be used at greater depth. Deep cultivation will often result in serious injury to plant roots which may be spread in tlie rows, thus preventing the crops obtaining immediate benefit from the plant food which is retained in the top three or four inches of soil. When fertiliser has been applied, and worked in. this top soil is invariably the most fertile. Cultivation following light rain is not advisable. Through rapid evaporation, the feeding rootlets are. denied the moisture which would subsequently penetrate to the soil depth at v»hich they are operating. As a genera! rule, shallow cultivation will . be suitable for all vegetable crops. In spring, wli,en there may be the necessity for the top soil to dry out quickly and to warm ■up more readily', deeper cultural operations may be adopted, provided the plant roots are not injured. On sloping land regular cultivation of the soil between crop rows becomes a necessity in order to prevent a too rapid run-off during rainfall, or when an irrigation system of watering is adopted. The top layers of soil being loose will permit the water to penetrate more quickly. Storage. April will determine the home gardener to make ample provision for storing those portions of his crops which, when harvested, can be used to good advantage throughout the winter period when other vegetables are usually scarce, and high prices are ruling for supplies which may be available. Potatoes .Main crop potatoes remaining in the garden should be dug before frosts occur. Dry weather conditions when digging are an advantage, and the operation should be timed to start early in the day. After digging, the tubers should be permitted to dry in the sunshine for a few hours; but must not be allowed, to remain outside during night time unless covered with sacks or some such material. The tops should never be used to cover the tubers when dug; they are better destroyed by burning, as they may be infested with the potato tubermoth. This insect pest of the potato may do eitough damage in one night to ruin the crop during storage. In this connection it seems necessary to recommend the destruction of all spent tomato vines, as the larvae of the tomato stem borer moth is known to attack potato haulm and tubers. Potatoes will keep well if placed in sacks and kept in a cool shed. Pumpkins. For successful storage these should be fully matured before being separated from the vines, which should have completely died down. Tiie outer skin must be well hardened, and in such condition that it cannot be penetrated by the pressure of one's thumb nail. The gourds intended for storage should be transported from the garden with the minimum of handling, and the maximum of care. As cold, damp conditions arc unsuitable for storage of these vegetables, they should be raised above floor level or placed on a good layer of straw, or on a shelf. They are often stored successfully by commercial gardeners, who pack them in banana cases which are stacked under the shelter of trees with a northerly aspect, and where there is no danger of frosts doing the gourds any damage. When harvesting is taking place, the vine should be cut three or four inches from the fruit. This part should not, however, be used as a handle. If it breaks harmful bacteria may enter the wound created, and start disease which will render the gourd worthless.