THE PAS OF SOUTH TARANAKI

Hawera Star, Volume LI, 20 February 1932, Page 9

THE PAS OF SOUTH TARANAKI

(By John Houston, LL.B (All Rights Reserved.)

ANCIENT TAKI-RUAHINE PA

STRONGHOLDS BY THE OTOKI STREAM

kainga of historic interest

With this article Mr Houston concludes the series of five dealing with ancient pas and kainga knowii to have existed within a radius of eight miles of Hawera.

Now dawns the morn, The day-dawn as of ancient days. 1 weep and mourn the loss And death of all my tribe. They are not lost, Nor can annihilation Blight them all. As noble war-canoe, Though oroken, partly wrecked, Can be renewed, So, O my people, rise, And wear the famed red plume. And bind the oath of peace, Of tribe with tribe. (From Kahu-korc’s dirge. Translated by Mr John White.)

£v ETWEEN Mokoia and Whakamara are to be found the earthworks of a number of * most interesting- Maori pas of the preEuropean days. Some of these are in strong positions above the Otoki Stream. Before the white man came, this area was covered with dense forest. Further towards Whakamara lie the remains of a very remarkable fortification, the Taki-ruahine Pa. This great pa is of considerable antiquity, aud it is said to have been inhabited until about a century ago. Many a traditional story centres round this ancient stronghold. Centuries ago this pa was held by a large number of warriors. It was from here, shortly after the year 1600 A.D., that the great war party set out to lay siege to the walled pa of the Ngati-Tupaea people, afterwards called Turuturu-mokai. The massacre which ensued by the Tawhiti Stream, and the ceremonial display of the dried heads of the vanquished toas, led to undying hatred between the two hapus. What secrets of the past are hidden within the burial places and middens of Taki-ruahine, no one may say. A great chief lies buried within the ramparts on the tihi of the pa, though, the actual place is unknown. Possibly this is the burial ground of Tu-rau-kawa Poroa himself, the chief whose guileful strategy led to the fall of Turuturu-mokai. Various ancient stone implements have been found in the vicinity, including -8-fine - example of’a small stone axe, which was uncovered quite recently. There is a legend that, shortly after the introduction of Christianity, many; carvings of wood and stone were destroyed by fire at Takiruahine Pa. The fire burned for days, it is said, until in the end one special stone image burst asunder with a loud l-eport, to the consternation of the tribesmen. The tribal treasures so destroyed would be of r infinite value and interest if they were preserved to-day. A similiar loss occurred at Patea, where the sculptured stones which marked the boundaries of Tim’s kumara plantation were destroyed in the sixties, in the mistaken belief that they were idols.

No longer do the maidens of Taki-ruahine dance the poi “to make good the hearts of men”; no longer do the moko’d chiefs taki up and down" the marae haranguing the tribe; no longer do the fierce war-cries resound as the earth trembles under feet that dance the haka; no longer in the still hours of the night is heard the chanted whakaaraara-pa, the song of the night sentinel. Mere and taiaha, tewhatewha and koikoi have been laid aside for ever, for the toas of Taki-ruahine have long since travelled the path Tahekeroa, by which all men “go down to death.” The following seven pas were strongholds of the Ngati-Hine hapu of the Ngnti-Ruanui tribe.

(51) Te Hau-ranga Pa. —This interesting pa is situated to the east of Mokoia, on the right hand side of the Noonan Road proceeding towards Whakamara. It is on Section 294, Block 11, Hawera Survey District. This small but very strong pa is in a commanding position on an abrupt hill at the end of a long spur above the Otoki Stream. The earthworks consist of a single line of trench and a steep double rampart. These are still very well defined. There are the remains of a few large run within the defences. This pa may be seen from the Noonan Road. It is sometimes referred to as Kahu-kura-nui Pa.

(52) Te Pare-pare Pa. —This is a large and important pa lying about three-quarters of a mile to the north of Te Hau-ranga Pa. It is situated on a large and isolated hill in Section 279, Block 11, Hawera Survey District, off the Whakamara Road. There arc two well defined lines of trenches and ramparts at the northern end of the pa, where the hillside does not afford such great protection as on the other sides. The rest of the pa is fortified with a single trench and double rampart. The trenches and ramparts are very well preserved. There are traces of large rua and of whare sites on the summit of "the pa. At the southern end of the pa there runs out a high narrow ridge, the end of which would probably be used as a look-out point as it commands a view of the valley., There was a further trench on this ridge at a short distance

from the main defences. This pa was a position of great strength.

(53) Te Awa-matenga Pa.—This pa is situated on Section 1, Block 11, Hawera Survey District, off the Otoki Road. It is on the end of a high spur above the Otoki Stream. This strong position is defended by a single line of trench and double rampart, except where steep hillsides have been relied on. The latter would be defended with stockades. There are the remains of large rua within the defences.

(54) Te Poro-poro Pa.—This pa lies a short distance to the east of Te Awa-matenga Pa, and is on high land on the same side of the Otoki Stream. It also is on Section 1, Block 11, Hawera Survey District. There is a single line of trench and double rampart still to be seen round part of this pa. One good specimen of a rua of the underground cave type is in the trench.

(55) Te Taua-nui Pa.—On the side of the Otoki Stream opposite to Te Awa-Matenga Pa and Te Poro-poro Pa, and at the back of the adjoining property, there are the remains of an old pa. It is on a high spur above the stream, and has a single line of trench and double rampart. There are rua of various types both on the summit of the pa, and in the trench. On an adjoining spur on the same side of the stream, there is another trench. (56) Puke-muku Pa.—This small but strong pa is on part of a very high spur in a commanding position above the Pukcniuku Gorge. The earthworks consist of a single line of trench and double rampart. On the southern face of the pa, the defence relied on a very steep slope, which continues far down into the gorge. This side of the pa is covered with a wealth of native trees. There are the remains of large rua on the tihi of the pa. Puke-muku Pa is on the Scenery Reserve, at the southern end of Allen Road, and on the northern side of the gorge. The name of the gorge is too frequently mis-pronounced “Poke-a-moke.” which is on a par with “ICitt-y Maria” for Ivetemarae, and “High Pipe” for Ahipaipa.

(57) Taki-ruahine Pa.— This extensive and ancient, pa is situated on Section 4, Block 12. Hawera Survey District. It lies a mile and a-quar-ter to the east of Te Pare-pare Pa, and not far from the Otoki Road. The pa occupies a long and high spur, sections of which were separately fortified. At the southern end of the pa, which extends into Section 5, Block 12, Hawera Survey District, there is a series of terraces, which would he fortified with stockades in the old days. These terraces lead to a lower reach of the spur, where the defences end in several lines of trenches and ramparts. There. are evidences of rua in this section as well as in other parts of the pa. Immediately behind this terraced area, there is a higher section of the spur protected at one end by two lines of trenches and ramparts'. These were apparently a formidable defensive work. Behind this second section lies the main part of the pa on considerably higher ground. In part, the defences here consisted of very high steep banks, which would be flanked with strong stockades. Towards the farm homestead, the spur finally narrows, and here was placed the last line of trench and double ramparts. This trench was recently filled in, hut its situation may still be traced. A very considerable area was included within the defences of this great pa. The eai’thworks have suffered considerably in the course of time. On the western side of the pa was apparently the main place where cooking was done, and on the slopes at this part there are extensive middens. There are many native trees about the pa. the rewarewa being much in evidence. The name of this pa is sometimes rendered Te Ka-ruahine. KAINGA OF HISTORIC INTEREST. Brief reference will now be made to a number of places of historic interest within the area under consideration, namely, within eight miles of Hawera. These are Maori kainga, villages or settlements, more or less fortified by the natives during the gun-fighting days of the Maori war. (1) JTe Ng-utu-o-te-manu, the fortified headquarters jof Titokowaru, was beyond Okaiawa. noar the Sheet Road. It was first, discovered and destroyed towards the end of 1866 by Colonel McDonnell’s force, which was accompanied by Sir George Grey. Although strongly fortified, the position was not occupied by the natives on this occasion. On 21st August, 1868. Colonel McDonnell attacked Te Ngutu-o-te-manu, and the whares were destroyed, including Titokowaru’s great meeting house called Wharckura. The third attack on Tc'.Ngutu-o-te-manu was on 7th September, 1868, when the British force was repulsed, and Major von Tompsky was killed.

(2) Te Maru was a fortified Hauhau position in 1868. It was situated not far from Te Ngutu-o-te-mami, near the Ahipaipa Road. (3) Te Pungarehu was a bush village of the Hauliaus near the junction of the Tempsky Road and the Ahipaipa Road. It was the scene of the principal engagement of Colonel McDonnell’s campaign of 1866. (4) Ahipaipa was near the road of that name. When Lieut.-Colonel Butler’s force arrived at this kainga on 20th January, 1866. it was found deserted, but the troops were fired on by the Hauliaus while the settlement was beingdestroyed. (5) Mawhitiwhiti was a settlement by the Hastings Road, and was destroyed by General Chute’s force in January, 1866. (6) Weriweri was another kainga by the Hastings Road. It also was destroyed by General Chute’s force in January, 1866. Later, on 21st August, 1868, there was a sharp brush here between the Hauhaus and a party with wounded from Te Ngutu-o-te-manu. (7) Te Whenuku was an important kainga near the Whenuku Road. It was destroyed by General Chute’s force in January, 1866. \ (8) Te Popoia lay a short distance northeast of Normanby. It was the scene of two brisk engagements during Colonel McDonnell’s campaign in October, 1566. Spring traps, formed with young trees, were used by the Hauhaus at Te Popoia. (9) Keteonetea lay by the Turuturu Road, towards the Austin Road. It was destroyed by General Chute’s force in January, 1866. (10) Nga-tiki was by the Tawhiti Road, near the Ohangai Road intersection. (11) Whareroa was east of the Tawhiti Road, by the Ohangai Road. It was destroyed by General Chute’s force in January, 1866. (12) was a kainga beside the Matangara Road. An incident of the days of Te Rangi-te-ngaue, of Tangahoe, and Huia-i-te-rangi, of Ngati-Okahu, gave rise to the name of this settlement. (13) Tirotiro-moana was by the Tiromoana Road. This Hauhau pa and its cultivations were destroyed by Lieut.-Colonel Butler’s force on 18th January, 1866. The position was again visited by Colonel McDonnell on sth November, 1866. but was found deserted. (14) Taiporohenui, near the Ohangai Road, was in 1865-1866 the headquarters of Te Ua Horopapere Haumene, the “prophet” who founded the Pai-marire religion. There was a famous niu polo at Taiporohenui, with crosstrees on which were carved Riki, Te Ua’s war god, and Rura, another god. The pole was of totara. fifty feet in height. It was one of the first to be'erected in Taranaki, and a greenstone whatu. or luck stone, was placed under it. The niu stood in front of a huge meetinghouse, some one hundred and twenty feet in length, which was destroyed by General Chute’s force in January, 1866. “Taiporohenui” is a very ancient name, and was brought to New Zealand from Hawa-iki by the Maoris of the heke in 1350. During the sojourn of the Polynesians at Tahiti, a great house there was named Taiporohenui. Later, a meeting house at Manawapou was so called, and finally the name was given to the large Hauhau house. It now survives as the name of the village. (15) Pokaikai was a settlement south of Taiporohenui. On Ist August, 1866, it was raided by Colonel McDonnell’s force from the camp at Manawapou, and the village was burned.

(16) Otapawa was a Hauhau pa situated on high ground beside the Tangahoe, about a mile above the bridge on the Ohangai Road. It was the scene o:L' one of the most historic encounters during the Taranaki wars. Some of the earthworks may still be traced, particularly the double line of trenches at the narrow rear of the pa. The pa widened towards the front, but now part only of the front trenches remain. There are many food storage pits within the defences. The pa was captured and destroyed by General Chute’s forces on 14th January, 1866. Te Ua, the Founder of the Hauhau religion, was at Otapawa Pa until a few days before the attack, but his “owl god” warned him to depart before the troops arrived, and he did so. (17) Meremere was an old lcainga by the Wairere Road. It was destroyed by Lieut.Colonel Butler’s force in February, 1866. (18) Manutahi was a kainga by the Taumaha Road. On 16th March, 1865, General Cameron’s column camped here, and a redoubt was constructed. (19) Manawapou was a famous kainga on the sea coast some three miles from Manutahi. General Cameron constructed a redoubt here in March. 1866. The first meeting house in New Zealand to bear the ancient name Taiporohenui was at Manawapou. (20) Whakamara lay by the lngahape Road. The Hauhau niu pole at this settlement was an unusually tall one, some seventy to eighty feet in height. The pole had three yardarms, on which were carved rape (doves). The pole was destroyed by Colonel Whitmore’s force in 1869. Early in that year Titokowaru and his men paused at Whakamara on their flight after Turanga-ika and Otauta, but they abandoned the position on hearing of Colonel Whitmore’s approach.