FIRST ASCENT OF COOK

Hawera Star, Volume LI, 4 May 1931, Page 10

FIRST ASCENT OF COOK

many attempts fait address by mb. rod syme Tin 1 work done by enthusiasts in climbing .in the early days of mountaineering in Now Zealand and &P . tally those who were the hi;st to make the ascent of Mt. Cook, provided the subject of a very interesting lecture by Mr Rod Syme to members of the Egmont Alpine Club on Friday evening. The story of the first complete ascent of the highest mountain in New Zealand, said Mr Syme, gives the bottom to adventurous New Zealanders "ho, in spite of repeated failures, at iengta on Christmas Day 1894 stood on its summit and first saw from them the wonderful panorama of the oountiy on all sides —a view probably unequalled any whole in the Dominion. in passing, Mr Syme said that Ball Glacier was named after J Mm Bad, first president of the Alpine Society The first attempt at the great climb was made by Rev. W. S Green, an English climber, in 1882, when he came Wiith two guides to New Zealand, but bad bad luck and reached the mountains late in the season They were decreed by ill luck on reaching the lasnian river and had to leave then uag(r.Qii there. There was no hut, and no hermitage, and they had to establish a. high camp, and late m March they set (Hit for the summit by the eastern side. ‘ The route was by the Linda Glacier, and they actually reached a point only 200 feet below the summit when they had to. abandon the attempt through bad weather _m. order to reach a place in winch to camp. After a perilous descent no further attempt was made by them. Following on that, attempts weie made by Von Lenderfeldt, who, with [,i s wife in March, 1883, reached a high .altitude; by Mannering in 1886, and by Ingli.s, Mannering and Dixon m 1887. These tliree spent six days travelling and swagging, and two days shut up in tlieir tent owing to shocking weather, but could not climb at all. Tn 1889 Messrs. Johnson, Mannering and Dixon made an attempt, but did not reach Oook, and in 1890 Alessrs Harper, Annam and Mannering reached Ice Plateau. Then followed an almost successful climb by Messrs Mannering and Dixon when, like Mr Green, they reached* within 200 feet of the summit and had t-o return by candle light. Again in 1893 Messrs Mannering and Dixon'made an attempt but without success. They were followed by Mr Dixon in 1894, when, with AG' Ross, Mr Fyfe and Mr Graham, they reached a. point only 176 ft. from the summit. In 1594 word was received that Mr Fitzgerald, with two Swiss guides, was en route to New Zealand with the express purpose of securing the, honour ~v the first ascent. Messrs. Dixon Kenneth and Malcolm Ross therefore decided, if at all possible, toi have the honour. They reached Ball Hut on November 7 and established a high bivouac a.t 8000 ft, but had to descend owing to heavy snowstorms. They were then joined by Messrs Fyfe and George Graham. After a spoil of bad weather Messrs 1 Fyfe, Graham, K. Ross and Dixon again set out and on November 18 went through the crevasses of Linda Glacier by candle light, and they continued up the route of Green’s ascent, but after reaching 10,600 feet they were again compelled to retreat. On November 25 they set out again, but bad luck pursued them, Graham becoming ill and Rios® losing lii.s ice axe and they had to descend once more. A furious storm drove them to Bail! Hut and Ross and Dixon had to return, to Timaru.

On December S Mr Dixon joined Dr. Cox with Messrs Fyfe -and Graham for another dash and again they had to return. Then it was decided to try the western face and a, journey was made by Mr Fyfe and Mr Adamson of the Hermitage to Hooker Glacier, whence possible routes were traced.

A week later Messrs Fyfe and Graham set out via Hooker Glacier, having extreme difficulty in making a way through the seracs of ice. Once the icefall was reached they made rapid progress and. made a, bivouac at 6500 ft. At 1.30 a,.m. on December 20 they crawled out to make the great climb, intending to fee up the most southerly or lowest peak and thence along the ridge, over the second or middle peak to the highest. By steady, but careful, climbing they reached the top ot the lowest .peak by 11 a.m. They descended 400 ft. to reach the saddle between the two peaks, the crossing of which demanded great caution for the crest was heavily “corniced.” At 1 p.m. they were on the top of the second peak, 12,173 ft. in height, but a very long and difficult ridge remained that would take several hours to cross and* they had to mc-iknoiwledge that it, was impossible at that hour of the day, therefore they accepted defeat and sat down, calmly and with undaunted spirit to enjoy the view; before beginning thel descent. They climbed carefully down Die .rocks 1 and then enjoyed some wonderful glissading to Hooker Glacier and then on to the Hermitage. There they met a young man, Clark, who was to become one of the most famous guides and, with him, they set out once more. On December 24 they readied a height of 8000 ft. in tliei Hooker Valley. Before turning, in for the night, they broke steps for the in' filing's great climb. At 2 a.m. on Christmas Day they woke to find con- 1 ditions were very good. The steps were in excellent shape and at 3.15 a.m. the big climb was begun. They moved rapidly and just as dawn was breaking they came to a huge “bergscrund” right across the snowfiejd. After great difficulty and the exercise of extreme care, they got over one by one and at last they stood on the upper lip. They had now to use their axes and the pace slackened, though, to save time, they kept where possible to the rocks. After crossing a narrow ice-filled gully leading on to the main ridge, they found the going Ijettar. save for a very difficult layer of •■laty rocks. They writhed their way across and then travelled fast, and at 10.30 a.m. were far above all surrounding peaks, A short spell was made for a meal and! just after mid-day they were able to see the highest peak 40Cft. above them. The slope was easier and finally they came to the ice-cap, up which a hundred steps had to be cut, and at 1.30 p.m. on Christmas Day, 1891, they stepped on, to the highest (point of Alt. Cook, the loftiest mountain in New Zealand. Next year, on Marcli 13, 1895, Zurbriggen and Adamson left Haast Hut at 1 a.m. and reached the summit at 3.40 u.m.

Mr Svmo said that Fitzgerald, from England, resolved on his arrival with his Swiss guide, Zurbriggen, not to attempt Alt. Cook and confined his efforts to other peaks.