GARDENING NOTES

Hawera Star, Volume L, 13 February 1931, Page 7

GARDENING NOTES

(Bv “Waratali.”) I GREEN MANURING. It, is essential to maintain the f<*rtilitv of soil bv adding humus (decayed vegetable matter) in some form I every year, and the best form an which ‘to apply it is decayed an’jrnal manare, but this is now difficult to' procure in towns, and the next best form is “green manure,” that is, iso me crop is sown .and dug an too doCa iiier«) are a number of plants, seeds of which may bo sown, suitable for the purpose; those most commonly sown in wardens are annual luijjns, mustard an d oahs. The best is lupin because, in addition to supplying decayed vegetable matter, the roots have small swellings known as nodules, in which are contained nitrogen which the plants have stored up during thenperiod of growth. Mustard is useful where a quick-growing crop is desired so that the soil may be made use of as soon as' possible; it is also useful for soil infested with wire worms, which will not live in soil into which mustard hais been dug. As soon as any portion of the vegetable garden becomes vacant seeds of any of the plants mentioned should be sown, so that the crop may be dug in and have sufficient time to decay before the ground is required for use. Lupins give the best results when dug in as soon as they commence to flower; they should not be left until the stems become hard and woody,, as they will not decay for a- long time and will cause the soil to become too dry bv acting as drainage. They are better sown in rows than broadcast, making the drills about two inches deep and one foot apart. When sow-11 broadcast it is difficult to get an even distribution of the seeds and to cover them with soil. Mustard or oats should be* scattered thicklv and evenly on the surface and raked in. When the crop is dug in a trench should be dug about 18 inches deep and wide at one end of the plot, and the soil removed tlie other end. Big the crop for a width of 18 inches into the trench and continue thus until the plot is finished; the soil removed from the first trench will then fill the last trench made. SUMMER PRUNING. Fruit trees in a healthy condition make a great deal more growth than necessary for fruiting purposes or for forming a shapely tree. If the, body ,of a tree is cowered with new growth so numerous that its centre is made impervious to tlie .sun’s rays the wood cannot ripen thoroughly. bummer pruning consists of the removal of useless surplus growths and dead twigs, and the shortening bade of Ion 0 - vigorous shoots. In the case of “ peaches and nectarines, the shortening hack of long shoots will cause the lower lauds to grow and prevent the trees producing a number of lon tr . bare branches with fruit only at t!ic~tio About one-third of these long growths should he removed now; should any second growth be made.it cilia be removed at the time of winter pruning. Tn the case of young, non-i ruating t rc es the summer pruning should con- [ sist of .stopping long leaders to cause the production of laterals lower down, so that the result is a low, wellfurnished. bushy tree; the same system should be applied as would be given to any other plant to produce busby specimens. budding roses. Budding consists of taking a bud of any variety it is desired to grow' and inserting it beneath the bark of another plant which supplies the root system. By this means choice varieties mav be budded on to inferior kinds, or it is possible to bud several varieties on the same stock. In selecting buds choose those which are plump ;U kl growing on a well-matured, branch which lias borne flowers. Out into the wood half-an-inch above the bud. 111 a downward circular direction to within half-an-inch helow the hud, then again in an upward direction so as to bring away the bud with a thin .shield of wood. ' Cut awav the leaves except a small portion to hold the. bud while handling it. In budding bush roses the bud .should be inserted just below the ground level, scraping away .sufficient soil and leaving a small cunshaned hollow wliich can be filled in, later when the bud has taken. Make a downward cut long enough to take the bud and a transverse cut at the ton like the letter T. Gently raise the Park 'on either side, take one of the buds, bolding it by the leaf-stalk, and insert it between the bark and the wood. pushing it well in from tlie top, so that the edges of the bark cover the shield. Then bind the scion firmly but not too tightly with raffia, leaving the bud exposed. The buds must |,<r examined occasionally and as they swell the ties anust be loosened to give the bark room for development. The t*e mav be removed at the eaid of about six weeks should the bud look in a. green, healthy condition. T>\ budding “standard” roses the Pads should be inserted on bratiches of tlie current year’s growth. Do not cut. off more than one bud nt a time; neither bud aaor cut bark should be exposed to tlie air For a moment longer than, is necessary. Tn ri,-\- weather the plants to be budded should be given a good soaking with rlenr water and the bark’ thoroughly wetted to make it in n nroper condition to receive the ban! ROUTINE WORK. • Spray potato foliage with Bordeaux 1 mixture (summer strength one pound Bordeaux powder to each 10 gallons of water, add one pound of trcaelo in showery weather) to prevent attacks of Irish blight. Spi'av apricot, peach, plum and tar in e ' trees with Bordeaux solution summer strength) or liano sulphur solution (one part to 125 parts of water) where trees are badly affected with leaf curl, bladder plum or dieback disease. Spray every 14 days during the growing season. Spray apple, near and quince trees with arsenate of lead solutioai (twe tea spoonsful of paste or one af in powder form) to destroy grubs of codlin motli. Spray the whole of the frees thoroughly with a mast-Jikc spray every three weeks. Spray cite raw, plum, pear and mnnc< trees affected with plum slug wit! arsenate of lead .solution. Dust- any plants, affected with mil dew with flowers of' sulphur. Sm-ny winter vegetable plants, sue! as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, etc. with a mixture of one teaspoonful o black leaf 40 and two of arsenate o lead in naste form (one teaspoonfu if in powder form) where affected witl aphides and caterpillars. Layer carnations. Peg down runners of strawberr. plants required for propagating pur poses. lift, dry and store garlic and ehal lots as soon as they are ripe. Gather up and burn all fallen frui not fit for use.

Sow .seeds of biennial and perennial l varieties of flower seeds. J Sow dwarf peas for succession. Sow facet (round), cabbage, eauli-1 flower, carrot, cress, lettuce, mustard, I radish, silver beet, spinach (New Zea-) land variety), koljl-rabi and turnip. Keep tomato plants tied to their | stakes as they advance in growth, I pinch out all side-slioots which grow 1 at the junction of the stem and the base of each leaf, and pinch off tops 1 as .soon as they are five feet in height. I Spray with Bordeaux solution (summer , strength), adding two teaspoonsful of arsenate of load (or 011 c if iai powder form) when fruits arc formed to destroy caterpillars. Spray every 14 days in dry weather, more frequently in showery weather. Spi-av dahlias with arsenate of lead to control caterpillars. Clip evergreen hedges. Plant cabbage, cauliflower. late broccoli and leeks.