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GARDENING NOTES

(By “Waratah.”)

PRUNING FRUIT TREES. (Continued 1 .) Peach and Nectarine. —The method of pruning these trees is identical in every 'respect-, as the nectarine is only a smooth -fruited 1 variety of peaeli. As the peach carries at an early age a much greater weight of fruit- and foliage than any other kind of fruit tree, it is necessary to prune the tree liardi in the first three seasons of its life to ensure a- -stout permanent framework. Yearling trees should be cut down to 12 inches,. two-year-old trees should have the main shoots cut back according to length and strength, prune weak isho-ots to from four to six inches aful string from nine to twelve indies. Thei divisions arising from them should be cut to fairly short lengths the next winter the next season they should be left a," little longer. Tin's pruning should- he continued until: the sixth season. when further sub-divisions should be prevented by cutting _ each leader hack to a side-shoot. It- is not advisable to allow peach! trees to grow too hio-h. as the branches become- bare at the base, and the fruit if borne high up on the trees is liable to damage from high winds. The fruit of the peach is borne chiefly on year-old shoots, though short fruit-spurs are also produced sparingly. When wintev-pruuing. the annual shoots require to bo shortened back a little and the cut should be made at a wood bud. which may be distinguished from a fruit bud bv its shape, which i's narrow and pointed, whereas a fruit I<ucl is round and plump. Old shoots should- be cut away and new ones where overcrowded. As with most kinds of fruit trees the growing' tips of extra strong leaders and side shoots should h„ n-inehed off about midsummer to t th” san to- weaker growth.

Old trees that have branches bare of annual fruiting wood may be renovated l»v r-utting the branches back to cause dormant buds to break low down. This l nrn-ess should be carried -out over a noried of three seasons, if an old tree l-.o pvuiied too di-astir-allr. it mav die. Al,va's tM-uiie a main limb to a. live shm-sK'-ot never tn a blind stump.

Plum.—The plum tree makes long slender growths in the first few seasons of its life and this has to be counteracted by bard pruning for the first three seasons. Yearling trees should he cut down to twelve inches, the next season the resulting shoots should he pruned back hard, according to their length and strength in the same manner advised above for peach trees. In extending the framework from | year to year the length to be retained J on the leader depends upon the vigour and fruit-bearing habit of the tree. On strong erect- growers not carrying heavy crops, a longer leader is left than upon those on slow-growing prolific specimens. When the tops continue to show much vigour prune lightly. When the leaders are short prune hard to induce strong, growth.

Laterals on plum trees do not need pruning unless very long, when they should he shortened back a little after the rank growth of summer has been made. 11 a greater number of leaders have grown than are required, they may also lie thinned out after midsummer. These should be cut-right out at the base, not merely shortened. The Cherry.—The cherry under favourable conditions makes very strong and straight- growth. The first season they should be cut back to twelve inches-, two-vear-old trees should have the shoots shortened to from twelve to eighteen inches, according to strength. The third winter pruning should be even less severe, and' from then onward it will only be necessary to shorten back leading si loots or secondary arms and; cut back long laterals and sublaterals. Should the tree make very rank growth it is advisable to let the growth go- unpruned for a season, and early the following season—say about the end of March—go- over them and cut off the points of the shoots only. This brings the' young wood into early fruiting. Thus the growth is checked, and the tree becomes more steady and fruitful.

I Auricot. —The habit of, the apricot is similar to the peach, and the trees 1 should ho pruned in the same '"'ay to ■ form the framework of the tree. The fruit is home chiefly on spurs produced lon two-voar-old laterals. one-year | laterals should ho shortened a little and' old spurs removed to make room for new. Once apricots commence' to heap fruit very little pruning is required. it is only necessary to remove dead and superfluous growth. The tools used in pruning are knives, pruning shears (secateurs) and saws. All tools must be kept in a sharp and clean condition. Wound's caused by a j clean cut heal more rapidly and perfectly than those that are bruised at the margin. Although almost super- | seded by secateurs, the pruning knife is without doubt the best tool to use on small wood as it makes' a clean cut without bruising the hark, even when pruning shears are used' a knife Is necessary to trim off rough edges made by the shears in forks and sharp angles, and 1 in smoothing edges of saw cutf on large* linvbs. When pruning shears are used they should he of the best quality'and l , the blade .should not have a shoulder: from the cutting edge to the hack of the blade should he com-j pletel.v bevelled and kept so by grinding when necessary. Ai thick shoulder bruises the hark badly in the region of the cut. making a wound which takes a long time to heal. When making a cut with the shears the cutting edge of the blade should face the operator and the yreassure exerted on the handles be iftrin and! continuous. A swift jerky action often suits the wood or removes part of the hark. All large branches should be cut as close to the main stem as* possible and the surface of the cut painted with red oxide. When cutting a large bra neb first make a cut an inch or so in depth und'erneath. if this he | not done the branch when it is being' cut from above may give way suddenly! and tear off bark from tbe main stem

ROUTINE WORK. finish planting spring-flowering I liiiibs. I Plant all kinds of trees, shrubs, and roses when tile soil is in a suitable con- ' dition for planting. Never plant when the soil is very wet or sticky. Should trees arrive when conditions are not, favourable for planting, unpack them and cover hte roots with soil. Plant- rhubarb-roots four feet apart in well trenched and manured soil. Remove Weeds from lawns and topdress with fowl-manure or super. Lil t dahlia roots and store in a cool I dry place. Cut down chrysanthemums that have tinishej' flowering. Saw broad beans. Dig up JerusalAfli artichokes ' Earth up celery and leeks.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/HAWST19300620.2.51

Bibliographic details

Hawera Star, Volume L, 20 June 1930, Page 7

Word Count
1,164

GARDENING NOTES Hawera Star, Volume L, 20 June 1930, Page 7

GARDENING NOTES Hawera Star, Volume L, 20 June 1930, Page 7