GARDENING NOTES.

Hawera Star, Volume XLIX, 12 April 1929, Page 8

GARDENING NOTES.

(By “Waratah.”)

THE' BELL ADO INFA LILY, This charming autumn-flowering bulb has long been cultivated and is fairly well known. There are few bulbs which make a better show or give more blooms for cutting than the Belladonna Lily. The bulbs may be planted at any time from the end of April to the end of August. They are not particular as to soil, but must not be planted in soil which is very wet in winter. A border under the shelter of a hedge or fence, which is too dry for most subjects will suit the Belladonna Lily. They do best when left undisturbed, and should not be lifted and replanted more than necessary when they are once established. There are several varieties' —Belladonna pink, alba white, babtise rosea, rose and yellow, magnifica large bright rose. FRUIT TREES. As soon as the crops are gathered from fruit trees the soil should be forked over to a depth of three or four inches so that the soil may receive the benefit of rain, sunshine and frost. Oil apple trees woolly aphis or American blight is a pest of all too frequent occurrence, and requires frequent attention to keep it down. It is easily recognised by the characteristic covering from whence it derives its name and occurs in patches on the bark. These patches resemble pieces of cotton wool, and underneath this covering are the aphides which damage the tree by sucking the sap. The best remedy is red-oil, one part to sixteen parts of water. This should be well rubbed into all the broken and rough parts o ftho trunk and branches where the pests have been breeding. A stiff painter’s brush is the best tool for the purpose. Any damaged or diseased fruits lying on the ground should) be picked up and destroyed by burning. One of the chief source of infection and breeding places of disease is bad and fallen fruits, ! which are often left lying under the trees until the autumn when they are dug in, or thrown on a compost heap. By doing this diseases and pests are allowed to breed and cause further trouble the following season. Burning is the only way to make certain of their destruction. ! LOGANBERRY. The old canes of loganberry should be now cut out and the new' canes produced this season trained in their places. The old canes should be burnt to destroy any pests or diseases which may be present. PUMPKINS AND MARROWS. Any pumpkins and marrows that are Lo be kept over the winter should be turned partly over so that the part, which has been lying on the ground may be ripened or dried off thoroughly. If this be not done decay is apt to begin at this place. They keep best when hung up (by strings tied round the stems) in a dry cool and airy room or shed. WINTER. GREENS.

Such subjects as broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbages have been badly affected by attacks of “green-fly” and the caterpillars of the cabbage moth, and have a dejected appearance. Where the centre of the plants is not destroyed the plants will recover if the worst leaves be removed and burnt and the plants given an application of nitrate of soda (loz per gallon of water) once a week for the next four weeks. If summer cabbages have suffered badly from attacks of caterpillars or fly, cut I the damaged heads at once, leaving ■ only a few of the lower leaves, a plentiful supply of shoots will spring from the stumps, and they form one of the most useful of winter greens. ROUTINE WORK. Plant strawberry plants one foot apart in rows thirty inches apart. Earth up early-planted celery and leeks. Plant rooted layers of carnations. Keep chrysanthemums free from insect pests and fungoid diseases. Apply weak liquid manure once a week until the flower buds show colour. Where large flowers are required gradually remove shoots and buds growing round the central buds that nro to he retained for flowering. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Sow hardy annuals and biennials. Sow lawn-grass seeds. Sow broad beans, cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, cress, endive, lettuce, mustard, onion, peas (early dwarf), parsley, radish, spinach, turnip.