MOUNT EVEREST.

Grey River Argus, 27 June 1922, Page 8

MOUNT EVEREST.

THE CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT. [The “Times” Cable 1 LONDON, June 24. The following are details of Finch and Captain Bruce’s attempt to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. The story is dated from Ronbuk base camp June 2. They moved up to camp three, at 21,000 feet, carrying oxygen apparatus. There they tested the apparatus, and found only one cylinder out of 10 usable. They contrived to get. four others by dismantling and reassembling the sound parts. Walking leisurely, they easily outdistanced their companions. It might have been a pleasant Alpine walk at 10,000 instead of 21,000 feet. The attempt began on May 23. “Setting out for the North Col,” states Finch, “at the foot of which we met Mallory’s party returning from their record breaking climb, we reached the north-east shoulder, 25,500 feet up, and pitched camp. Meantime, a snowstorm w; s rapidly’ working up to a state of fury. We crawled into our sleeping bags and tried to warm ourselves in the frail little shelter. Hot drink was impossible owing to the altitude. Wo used solidified spirits to comfort our chilled bodies. After sunset, the gale increased to a storm tearing the tent, with such force that it constat ly lifted the groundshcet, though we were lying upon it. At midnight we were thickly covered with fine spindrift thrown into the tent. Wo dare not sleep. It was all we could do to hold down the tent. If once the wind fairly gripped it, wo would have been blown into a glacier 1000 feet below. By the morning, the gale reached its maximum. The flapping of the canvas made a noise like a machine-gun, and was so deafening we were hardly able to converse. During a lull, wo took turns to go outside, and sueefeded in roping down the tent. We snatched a few moments’ sleep, but wore much exhausted and owing to the exposure were half frozen. At daybreak, the snow ceased, but the wind was unabated. We tried to build a wall of stones to windward to afford protection, but each of these excursions, though seldom lasting five minutes, showed that there could bo no question of advancing or retreating until the gale abated. We lay quiet, keeping as warm as possible, and putting on every stitch of cloth inf?, and huddling <‘lose together. Suddenly after midday, the wind dropped to a comparative breeze. That was time to retreat if we desired, but we decided to hang on another night, hoping for a fiper dav. “We heard voices outside at 6 o’clock in the evening. It was porters from I North Col with thermos flasks and hot beef tea. We had a good night, and found much improvement by taking the oxygen apparatus to bed and sucking therefrom driblets all night. We con trived to sleep well until daybreak, feeling fit and fresh, but hungry. As soon as the sun joso, we ?*truck the tent, and shouldered the burdens, but after we bad climbed a few hundred foot, an intensely cold breeze started to blow. Our solitary companion was a faithful and wonderful Karkhn non-com, named Tojbir but oven his sturdy constitution showed signs of wavering. We managed to boost him up to 26,000 feet, whore he coljapsed. We tried to urge him on, but without avail. Tojbir was played out and wo sent him back to camp. Wo wore now obliged to shoulder Tojbir’s burden, which was a. decidedly cruel imposition. We reached 26,500 feet. The ground was much steeper and the wind much fiercer and colder. We climbed diagonally almost direct for the summit by a series of steep inclined slabs, where the least slip would entail disaster. By midday we had reached 27,300 feet, and had negotiated half the distance between north-east shoulder and the summit. Just before reaching this, which was our highest point, Bruce had an unfortunate accident, which put his oxygen apparatus out of action. It was broken by knocking a breathing lube against a rock. I was able to share my apparatus with Bruce, but repaired the damage. Tn the meantime, the wind and cold seemed bent on doing their worst. Banks of greyish rolling cloud filled the valley at the head of Ronbuk Glacier, and drove us up before a fierce tfest wind. We lost all feeling in the feet and shoulders, and ached from the weight of the apparatus. We decided that if wo deposited the cylinders on a ridge and descending, wo would have a much better chance of reaching the summit at a second attempt. Therefore, we turned back and descended in really bad weather. We staggered to camp thoroughly done up. I felt I cou ] d 00t , have taken another step.” EXPEDITION GIVES lIP. ONLY 100 FEET FURTHER. LONDON, June 25. Unofficial reports suggest that the Mt Everest expedition will be abandoned Only 100 feet was added to the record in the third and final attempt at the summit. No further progress can be expected. All the explorers are incapacitated from hardships.