DOMESTIC REALM

Gisborne Times, Volume LXXI, Issue 11382, 6 December 1930, Page 10

DOMESTIC REALM

LONDON NOTES

LATEST DRESS SHOWS

Many .old friends are coming back to ~us this .season in new,,and more attractive guise (writes the London correspondent of a Sydney paper.) There is, for . instance, the woollen suit, which.used to be a dull thing, but is now as pretty as- you could wish. In many of'the new woollen suits, metallic threads are woven through the wool, so that they sparkle most gaily. Gold - threads woven through brown are popular, and the most fashionable blouse of the moment is a tuck-in affair of jersey or Angora finished with collar and cuffs of jjique.

. .Quite a number of the jersey blouses, too, are made with narrow, little upstanding collars of their own material, like a miniature Cossack collar. As for the suits, the skirts are quite a good length, and are generally mounted at the waist into a buckram band, since the designers have discovered that this is more practical than elastic. A favourite type* of suit is . made with a bolero type of coat and the accompanying blouse is of crepe-de-chino in a slightly lighter shade than the . suit. For wear with the woollen suits, you must he sure to choose tho right jewellery, which is made of polished wood and leather, and is mostly seen in silver and gold colourings. Everything points to this being a brown season. Brown shoos are much to tho fore in all the smart shoe shops, and you must choose a'dark brown shoo for wearing with your dark coloured frocks, while your lighter dresses and suits must be accompanied by a lighter brown which has more than a. tuVicli of red in it —this is one of' tlie new shoo shades. I have noticed at the.dress shows that there is a special .feeling for dark colours l'or daytime wear. All tho dark browns are especially popular; brown and white rind navy and white are smarter combinations at tire moment than black , and white; dark, green and dark blue are seen a great, deal, and a special shade of plum is also mueh to the fore.

. The silk,dresses for wearing later in the season under fur coats are especially charming. They are earned out in satins and cropo-de-ehine, in chiffon and panne velvet and a new poau de soie which is finding groat favour with the dress designers. Brown cropo-dochino patterned in a tiny gold design is also a favourite with the coutoriers, and another most fashionable material is n, silk patterned with a raised velvet design.

ENGLISH FASHION NOTES

THE RULE OF THE SLEEVE

I think' a whole book could ho written about sleeves this season, states tho London correspondent of a. Sydney paper. ■ They are so varied and have attained such importance in the dress world. Leg-of-mutton sleeves . have come back to ns, and are considered the height of smartness. Frills trim many sleeves. Sometimes they are placed just over the shoulder, to form an epaulette,, anclhanother vogue is for slanting frills set just below tho elbow. Then again, I saw a frock which had frills set round the sleeve above the elbow, in line with the frill adorning* the bodice, and when the wearer’s arms were at her sides, tho sleeve frills joined with the bodice fiill to give the effect of a cape. The newest velvet jackets have adopted quite a formal air, for they are now made with medieval sleeves, widely cut, and sometimes adorned with rich embroidery, . to lend them further dignity. Some sleeves .are quite amusing. There are, for instance. the tight-fitting ones from shoulder to wrist, which abandon slim lines only at the elbow, and balloon out widely for a few inches. And this fullness may be bordered with a line or so of smocking, since smocking has hecome so fashionable again. Cuffs need no longer be set. only at the wrist. You can have cuffs which are placed just below the elbow, and flare out widely. Very wide cuffs are featured by many sleeves; they nearly all flare, and are generally seen in white on dark coloured frocks. Little puff sleeves have returned quite definitely, and are chosen for evening frocks of the demure Victorian type. The bishop sleeve is another revival which promises to have a success. A new idea is to catch the sleeve in at the wrist by a bright-coloured hand, which matches the frock belt. The double sleeve is an interesting novelty of the season. This consists of a longtight. sleeve, coming to the wrist and allied with an elbow-length sleeve, which' falls over it and looks rather like a cape—the upper sleeve is often scalloped at. its edge.

CANDLE-LIGHT WEDDING IN LOYAL CHAPEL

WHERE KINGS WORSHIPPED

FALKLAND PALACE, Fife. A girlish figure in a satin bridal gown passed through, the wide corridor of this royal .palace to her wedding in the tiny . ghapel where Scottish kings and queens apd courtiers worshipped between 1450 and 1600. iShe was Miss /Ismay CrichtonStuart, the 20-year-old elder daughter of the • late Lord Ninian CrichtonStua.rt, a brother of the Marquis of Bute. •

•Her mariiago in these romantic surroundings; was the fulfilment of a child&ood wish to make her bridal vows'fin the pro-Reformation chapel which her .grandfather, the late Marquis of Bute,- and after him her father, , who . .was killed in Franco early, in the war . had helped, to restore 1o fits fortnor simple grandeur. Nearly the wliolo of the rest of the palace is 'a picturesque-ruin. The tall bridegroom who. waited for his-bride in the, candle-lit sanctuary of the, chapel was the 22-year-old Viscount Tiverton, son (and heir of tho Earl of .Italsbury. ~ " ’ ' ‘ As the- bride walked under an eld stone archway and along tho-gravelled path to the door of, the chapel,, her' satin dress opened, over a beautiful petficoat •of filmy old lace.: ;v •: ' : ' s White rosebuds at each;ear hold a

tiiiy lace cap-in place, on her. -dai’lc. hail;, and her Jbrjdal, veil of Brussels lace flowed out on ,to her shoulders and over her satin train.^'.'

•Blio wore blue brocade slippers and carried in one hand a missal bound in turquoise velvet; and gold. Her ten bridesmaids, a page, and a small maid-oi-libnouf awaited her in

the corridor, :.a.ll :of .; them. : prominent social figures, . including Miss Pamela Bowes-Lyon, a cousin of the. Duchess of York. ...

, Six of them word gold find the other four silver-tissue dresses of (lowing medieval, stylo,,, with' upstanding; Medici collars' of pleated Ainph. Wreaths of ’ grdbn- bak leaves- ‘bound , her "half, the, .oak loaf being/:tho;family symbol of the*Cricliton-Stunrte. A-

Household Hints i

By “MARIE."

BRAAVN

•DIFFERENT

A CENTURY-OLD ROMANCE

THE LORD OF BURGHLEY

Julia Cartwright, i d the “Magazine of Art,’’ qnee told the story of the romantic marriage of the Lord of Burghley, the subject of Tennyson’s famous .poem. “In tho year 1791. Henry Cecil, ■ then a man of seven or eight and thirty, • nephew and heir of the Earl of ; Exeter and Lord Burghley of those days, came to live in the, quiet village of Bolas, on the quiet banks of the River Teru, in a remote corner of Shropshire. While young he had been led into a marriage which had proved unhappy, and when he. came to Shropshire had, recently divorced his wife. In a melancholy mood he resolved to hide himself from the world, and, concealing his birth and rank, he assumed the name of Jones and the profession of a travelling artist, and lodged during some months in the house of a farmer named Thomas'Hoggins. Hero lie fell ,in love, with, the fanner’s fair young daughter, Sarah, and, with her parents’ consent, made her his wife. _ The names of the contracting parties may still be read in the parish register of the, Shropshire village, where the wedding took plneo on the 3rd October, 1791. Upon his uncle’s death, a year afterwards, Mr. Cecil succeeded to the earldom ; and, without telling his secret, he brought his bride home to Burghley, where she learnt it for tho first time.”. .

NEWEST SHADE IS HEAVEN BLUE.

Another blue lias found favor among the fashionable of Hollywood • —heaven 1 blue. Shading softly between tones of turquoise and acquamnrine,. heaven blue creates the idea' blue for a summer frock. For her starring role in . “Her Wedding Night,” Clara Bow used this new. blue for a chiffon dinner gown, and also has a. silk crepe sports costume in the same '‘toning.

THE HUMBLE SANDWICH. .

SOME NEW .SUGGESTIONS

The humble sandwich has a myriad uses, and is a permanent standby when inexpensive entertaining is to be done. As a matter of fact, once . out... of their ’teens, most people much prefer sandwiches to sweet cakes and biscuits, and when a sitdown meal is not being prepared a. platter of sandwiches is the next best- thing. A great deal may be done with hard-boiled egg, though in itself it is tasteless. In ihe" first place, it should be put through a fine sieve, or else pounded until the white is indistinguishable from the yolk. Then it should be well mixed with pepper, salt, and a piece of butter as big as a walnut. This foundation is excellent, provided it has something pungent or sharp added to it, such as chopped olive, green pepper, gherkins, capers, chicory or watercress. Even those who object to sardine sandwiches will like them if the sardines are pounded with pepper asd lemon juice and added to this egg mixture in quantities of half and half. Cheese and nuts have a delightful. flavor. The nuts should be .chopped finely, or preperably put through a nut mill, and mixed with cream cheese or grated Gruyerecheese.

Color should not bo forgotten in ranging a plate of sandwiches. Tomatoes are a useful adjunct, but they should be skinned first. This is easily done by placing them in boiling water for a minute. lhev should be used with thin slices of cucumber, anu both the tomatoes and cucumber should be salted for ton minutes beforeond. and the bread spread with mayonnaise. Or the tomato chopped and well beaten with cream cheese makes a delicate pink sandwich. A quarter of a pound of smoked fish goes a long way and brightens up the dish considerably, but it is so salt in itself that care should be taken , not to mix it with olives, anchovies or anything similar'. A little chopped lettuce or musard and cress is good with smoked fish. Some sweet: sandwiches which combine well are chopped banajias sprinkled with grated milk chocolate, or chopped date and walnut. An unusual mixture is.cream cheese beaten with salt and pepper and covered with slices of banana. A little ingenuity will discover endless palatable combinations for sandwiches, but it should he borne in lhincl that it is the small details which count, such as chopping and pounding ingredients where possible, so that the guest is not left- struggling with a largo piece of disembodied lettuce._ It is also essential to see that mixtures on the same roll do not clash in taste, such as olives and sardine'.?—a truly horrible combination.

To make brawn, have ready 4lh of lean corned beef, .‘1 or 4 sheeps’ tongues, a pig’ head, some potted nutmeg, a few peppercorns,' whole spice, arid .three . blades of mace. Wash the meat, put all into a saucepan with the seasonings and boil .slowly • until the meat falls off the ,bones.. Skin the head, remove the hones and gristle, then chop the meat finely, arid press into a basin without any liquor. Pit a plate tightly over the meat not just.over, the basin, then press down with heavy weights until set.

SHOPPING IN AMERICA IS

A British woman in New York or - any other American city is struck with the different names of everything. ~For instance, instead of the familiar haberdashery, they have notions; a real of thread is a "spool of cotton,” corset busks are "front steels,”, .calico is "muslin,” hence some funny mal entendus. A friend of mino was. buying material for lier husband’s pyjamas in a New York departmental store, and was shown some which was not thick enough for her requiremepts,. am! she said so (writes a correspondent of -the Glas- . gow "Weekly Herald”). "Perlinps, madam, you would like muslin?”- said the; saleswoman. • Now m,v friend' yvns »rather new to NojwY/ork. and its languago, and "muslin” : of course, to her ; was just the -English kind, rose-sprigged and dinplianous,'' and- the vision' of her spouse.‘dad;, in, l garments, of this kind' was too much for her gravity, and. sho loft,the eountor in fits of laughter. , The saleswomen aro chatty and feympafHetie, arid ate riirich given to advising. you Aikl ‘helbing iyori bn‘ you v ghoico . of ; ; garinents.;; ■ "Aly-; but, that, iiat. suits, you At. lngkes.. you look, real - cute!”, "A littlo irritating;till you get; usrid to it.- " 1 No New Yorker uses a .twb-syllablo Word .if .a/sixrsyllable onq will do, and orio.wbritlGrs’ that such a hustling com-, inunity ; has : time : to ■ say "elevator

operator” when they could say “liftman”; but simple words do not seem to appeal to them. Except, of course, when you see “Eats” in a restaurant! You can’t even have your kitchen ceiling whitewashed. It must be “calsomined.” In New York, all your friends ring you up early, and ask, “How have you been?” as if you have been ill.

THE "FLAPPER” SPEAKS

Sir Thomas Davies, ALP., relates that at a meeting of "Welsh “flappers ’ he was explaining the Widow’s Pensions Act;. When he came to the case of a widow who married again, a girl interrupted, reports the "Aberdeen Press,” saying:— “That ain’t right.” “What?”, asked Sir Thomas.

“Widows marrying again!” answered the girl. "We girls want you to bring in a law to stop widows marrying a second time.”

“Why?" inquired the speaker. “Because there ain’t enough men to go round for us girls. Widows shouldn’t: he allowed to marry again until there are,” replied the girl immediately.

Many will wonder if girls widely hold this view.

HAVE YOU EVER TRIED THIS ?

Should an aluminium pan become burnt, it can bo cleaned by half-filling the pan with water into which odd bits of rhubarb, (including the leaves) have been placed. Boil for 15 mins. A sprig or two of parsley boiled with cabbage greatly improves the flavour. To remove tea-stains from a tablecloth, place the stained part over a bowl, and pour boiling water through the stain at once.

To preserve the hoods of prams L from the sun, nib them every day * with a. cloth soaked in olive oil. This will' give the hood a bright look. When making a suet pudding mix ’ flour. and suet with warm water instead of cold, and the puddings will , have a light, cake-like, crust, and cut , beautifully when, cooked. A tablespoonful' of salt sprinkled on every hundredweight of coal will make the coal last double its time. Rub your hands with salt after touching onions, then Wash them in cold water, and no smell or stain will • remain. [ The new linens with coloured prints take much laundering. , The following method is recommended by those 1 who have had experience. Sprinkle a little borax .in slightly hike-warm ; suds, and leave - the linens halfun hour in this. Shako them, round a little and then rinse them in clear cold water. Drain the water off. but- do not wring the linens tightly. Hang them up immediately . where they will not. be exposed to the snn. The addition of a little vinegar to the water makes the colours fast against ‘sun and air. Never use boiling water on tho?,e linens and always wash each kind separately. HAPPY MARRIAGES "The theme of happy marriages defeats our novelists: it is too large for them.” says Miss Margaret. Kennedy, one of tlie most popular novelists of the day, and author of "The Constant Nymph,” writing in the '‘EveningNews” of London. She adds: — "An unhappy marriage is like a narrow cage because the cage is simple to describe it is small. The prisoners, heating vainly against the bars, are easy to observe because their activities are limited to barbeating. They attract the storyteller because of' the compact smallness of their drama. "A happy marriage is like a vast continent. No one has ever entirely explored it. To know it all would be to know the whole of human live as experienced by two people, both together and apart, from the cradle to the grave. "We all think we know what it ought to be like, hut we cannot prescribe for it except in negatives. The reaction of two people who are always tremendously aware of one another, however romantic it may be at first, is bound in time to become oppressive. Happiness lies in an infinite. series of minute, unconsciovfs adjustments. ... "Stevenson said that' marriage is ‘not a bed of roses but a field of battle.’ And this is true of nil marriages, good and bad alike. For life is a field of battle to most of us. whether we face it singly or with an ally. And it is not in petty warfare between the wrongly mated, but in the larger strife which comrades wage together that the epic story of marriage is to be found. That story cannot be told in a paltry 100.000 words, so we must not blame the novelists for their silence. The. best they can do is to say, as we said in the nursery: ’So they were married and lived happily after.’ BABY SAYS DON'T Don't let me sleep with mother for I need such lots of air; • Don’t make my nursery far too warmIt really isn't fair. • Don’t keep me from my natural food In spite of what folk say. Just let me have my mother’s mill; — The trouble I’ll repay. Don’t feed me far too often for My digestion likes a rest, And in the night for me to go ’ Without one feed, is best. Don’t- try to make me overweight Whatever else you do; I’ll suffer for it later on — And so will Mother, too! • Don’t put that dummy in my month I’m sure it’s often dirty; In any case I want to be Nice-looking- when I’m thirty! Don’t give mo walking lessons for I‘ll walk when lam ready ; Is isn’t wise to keep me on My feet before I’m steady. And though I like to lie all day ”Cept when I'm being fed. Please don’t forgot, my 'mothering” Before I go to bed! . —Margaret Kent. FATHER FINDS OUT I always thought all babies looked the same, - : All very small and knobbly, rather red. . , And spending nearly all their day in bed— Until John came. I- always thought all babies liked to yell. * . I never knew that; babies could bo gay, And laugh you lots of things that they can’t say. f couldn’t tell! How can a father know his little lad Will be quite different from all babes, mid-grows. Prettio.v, from morn to eve because ho knows Two hearts are glad? , . . .M. F. WOODZELL. PARADE OF GOWNS HEADDRESS IsFT ACROSS v "I attended; the longest dress parade that London has ■ over . seen. at . the Alexandra palace, Wood Gr.oon, when Mr. Charles B. Cochran hold a rovioiy of tho 2000 costumes which were seen m. his hew show 'Ever Breen/ ” ; statos a writer in the "Daily Alan.”;

From 9.30 a.m. to midnight .• members';. of the ..company ; appeared in tiieir costumes ijefore d 'corps of dress ; tie-

signers, clresmakers, ballet mistresses wig-malcers, and scenic artists.. Hundreds of miles of spangle trimming had been used for the many elaborate costumes which the sixteen Cochran Show Girls wore in a scene depicting Mars and the other planets. “Miss Jessie Matthews in one scene wore a huge headdress of net, spangles pearls and ostrich feathers, which, together with a flimsy train of net. and feathers, cost; more than £IOO. The'headdress was 15ft high and 25ft across, and .comprised 150 large tail feathers and more than 500 smaller ones. A group of chorus girls wore modern costumes with enormous skirts and huge “Welsh,” hats in silvep trimmed with broad bands of turquoise with pink roses. With these were worn long kid gloves in turquoise trimmed with roses. Home of the headdresses were so large that it, took three people to fit them to the head of the wearer.”