MEN’S CLOTHING

Gisborne Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 21946, 14 February 1946, Page 10

MEN’S CLOTHING

INCREASED COMFORT WELLINGTON VIEWS “Men have stood it long enough,” said a prominent Wellington tailor when asked to comment upon dress reform. “They’ve taken it,” and all because of our gracious lady.” The speaker continued that he favoured everything that made men's dress more comfortable, provided it was neat and in good taste. Auckland had instituted reform in working day clothing as early as 1930. when shop employees, clerks and salesmen in motor establishments were permitted to wear grey trousers, with white shirts and ties. He thought the same idea should be adopted in Wellington in hot weather. Such dress, however, must be neat—the trousers well pressed, the shirt and tie not in conspicuous colour: and a tie-pin should be worn. The shirt protruding at the back, and the tie hanging over the ear, gave a larrikin impression.

Stiff Collars Passing

The day of stiff collars was passing, the tailor continued, and, as for the dress suit and dinner jacket, the war period without them had been one nt comfort. When materials became available he expected to see the soft shirt with soft collar attached come into general favour for evening wear. The double-breasted dinner jacket without vest was a comfortable garment. Comfort, however, was not the only factor in clothing, and till something adequate was developed to replace forma! evening wear, a complete change of fashion in this respect did not appear to be practicable. In the opinion of another popular tailor, the variety of battled rexses made in checks, gaberdine and flannel were an indication that men were seeking more comfort in their daily wear. Doctors who had returned from the lighting front sometimes expressed a desire to wear them, but were bound by orthodoxy. Climate was o big factor in dictating what changes in dress could be made. In the United States of America it was usual for men to dispense with vests and to wear shirts without sleeves. That style, and a more general use of shorts, might be appropriate in Sydney and Auckland, but lie did not think it would become popular in Wellington. Evening dress was orthodox throughout tlic world, whether in lire Panama Canal or the North Atlantic. Dinner dress showed a change toward greater comfort, in the double-breasted jacket with rolled collar. Many people thought this a new style when it became popular in North America before the war. but it had originated in India over 30 years ago. The dinner jacket could be either white or black, but the trousers were invariably black, added the speaker.