MAINLY FOR WOMEN

Greymouth Evening Star, 18 October 1939, Page 9

MAINLY FOR WOMEN

ITEMS OF INTEREST

AFTERNOON ELEGANCE.

NEW FROCK STYLES “By Columbian.” You may be under the impression that Hollywood can get away with things which would defeat New Zealand. Is it the brighter light, the higher skies, the bustling briskness of the metropolis which makes Hollywood actresses dress so bravely ami yet not look like comic opera? What is it that teaches them to keep the balance between eccentricity and sprightly gaiety? You. too, may have their secret if you read through the mazes of fashion notes and watch the new clothes that come and go. We have to admit that what looks right for an afternoon ‘‘at home” in Hollywood naturally looks right, in any New 7 Zealand town. In your innermost mind you will realise, I think, it is the way women wear their clothes which goes far to make them look right, even when they arc wrong. They must carry themselves well and both sit and stand well, in fact be just a little queenly. It may be this quality of queenliness that has urged the Hollywood actress to be true to her tailor-made, for true she is. The ways of making it are as many as the ways of cooking an egg. You see it worn by Joan Perry, one of Columbia’s stars. Then you see it with a divided skirt ready for the golf links in grey blue with a wine red sweater and a hat to match the two. You meet it in navy blue and still more often in black. And there are as well some charming tailored frocks and jackets which are quite the most attractive things for luncheon parties, for tea and for cocktail hour.

The American is true to herself in many ways, as she makes her tailor mades smile. She adds a little jacket, a scarf, some intriguing buttons, clips or a chain or a bit of real jewellery and there she is smiling, not laughing or grinning. Robert Kalloch in his designing is very good at making smiles for tailor mades. There is little change in the silhouette this season and wide, swinging skirts continue to be the main theme of nearly all afternoon frocks. Full skirts are a wonderful camouflage for the little bumps which we have developed through sitting over a cheery log fire during the Winter evenings. You want little dresses to wear with furs this weather. Navy and carrot are news for colour. Robert Kalloch has wedded them into a colourful striped jacket with new elbow sleeves. Irene Dunne is to wear this with a navy skirt. The jacket has high cut lapels of navy and navy suede and wooden buttons fastening it down the front. I here are only three and they are large. A scarf of pleated georgette lends a final chic to this costume. Ann Doran favours rust to contrast with her golden curls. This is favoured for afternoon wear. Her frock is of fairly heavy suede material which lends itself to tucking, and is tucked across the bodice in large seams which do not crease but fall into heavy folds. The sleeves are elbow length. The dress has a square shoulder line and the neck is very high. She wears perfect fitting black suede gloves and a little rust toque which swathes and fits tightly. A fine veil falls to the back of the lial. The furs incidentally. arc silver fox which give added warmth and luxury. A good colour for Spring days is violet shade and those warm fuschia colours. They look attractive made in the new bloused movement, above a fitted hip line.

Young marrieds choose fuschias and pinks. They are taking to the new range of yellows, too Chartreuse. tawny yellow and a deep gold. Blues, above all Wedgwood, the new blue, will be popular, and the threequarter coats swing informally over many afternoon frocks. The pushedup slightly puffed shoulders that have replaced the very broad shoulder silhouette of a season ago, are the new ideas which have set the Hollywood machines rattling busily. And I must say a word about the extremities —hats, shoes, and gloves. Some of the newest hats are much smaller. .Joan Perry wears with her guardsman blue outfit an extremely smart toast straw sailor with a brilliantly coloured parrot, ornament and veiled with blue mesh. Then with her black outfit a crisp shiny straw flowerpot decorated with black and white valla lilies and enmeshed with a black veil. Her accessories are black patent. Kalloch has designed some hats no larger than dolls’ tiats and women arc wearing them with their hair dressed in high curls to make them look less out of proportion. By the way. the fashion of tying up the head in a little sequin-covered haudker-

chief for going out in the evening is to be admired. The fashion of Howers with frocks is less important for afternoon wear this season. Wear dress jenelleij which seeks to be amusing rather than beautiful.

Shoes are marvellous, and the more the merrier, scents io be the lead to follow. If your shorn; are wrong, yon ;<r<- all wrong, so, for the . m<>d'".-’l purse, it will be necessary to have more shoes and fewer clolb.es. V.'c choose them to go with the dress or coat and skirt in colour, quality, and style. The same rule with gloves. Belts, too. are important. for day wear. A bright leather one. or a tartan one draped high on a plain wool-b-n dress after the Kalloch fashion. You will realise that for day wear as well as night wear, fashion .is persuading you to enjoy her minor frivolities.

buying a CORSET.

IMPORTANCE OF FITTING. Whether you have a figure problem or not, you should spend, al least, as much time over choosing foundation garments as you do over your new Spring outfit. You will not be tempted to take advantage of a spare ten minutes to rush in and buy a corset, if you just stop to think how much depends upon its efficiency; your figure beauty, the success of your new clothes (or the salvation of your old ones), and that glorious freedom from tiredness which is the first gift tlic improved posture a new, properly iited foundation bestows.

In spite Of the gallons ot ink that have been spilt, the quantity of breath wasted, impressing upon women how necessary it is to have corsets properly lifted, corset buyers say that something like this is too common. A womas walks into the department and says casually: ‘‘Ob, 1 want a little girdle to fit a 28-inch waist. No, 1 won’t wait to try it. on!” Or, worse still, they telephone their favourite store and ask to have one or two garments sent, on approval. This is so silly. In the first place, if you buy a garment on “appro, ’ you are sent a choice of only two or three. The garments are picked out on price, or fabric, or whatever you specify, and might just miss the one that would suit you perfectly. And although corset manufacturers divide figures into scientific types and areas, and have a variety of scores of garments each season, there arc some details, sues as hose supports and shoulder- straps, which the litter can alter to make the garment feel more comfortable and give better service. Therefore, when you buy a foundation garment, however, inexpensive make a point of going to a shop or department store that has a proper fitting room and good litters. Allow plenty of time for a proper Utting. And above all, shop with an open mind, ready to recognise improvements and new ideas.

WASHING HINTS VELVETEEN AND QUILTS Use water worked to a lather with soap jelly. Steep the article and lift up and down several times. Note: No swinging or squeezing should be done at any state of the process. Apply friction to soiled parts with the palm of the hand while the garment is spread flat on a board or table. Usually two soapy waters are required so that the washing process may be repeated. Allow the water to drain, but do not wring; use at least two rinsing waters. A little acetic acid added to the rinsing water will set and brighten this colour. Place the article on a coat-hanger or pin to a cloth and allow to drain; it is necessary to change the position of the article before it is completely dry, otherwise creases may form in the hanging folds; carefully shake often as this makes the finishing a much easier matter. When beginning to press and finish velveteen use a fairly cool iron. Touch the wrong side only with the surface of the iron. Seams and small parts should be passed across the face of the iron while it is standing point upwards; large areas may be lightly ironed as in ordinary pressing Turn the garment to the right side and lightly rub the material up the right way with the palm of the hand or with' a clean velvet pad. Hang on a coat-hanger to air. Choose a warm, breezy day; wash the quilt by squeezing it in two or three soapy waters; rinse it in warm water and then in cold water, adding salt and vinegar to set the colours if necessary; pass it through the wringer being careful to keep the down evenly distributed; shake well before pegging out. and from time to time while drying; if dried indoors, put it near the fire to raise the, down. Work the down evenly throughout the quilt with the fingers. It is usual to press the cover with a moderately hot iron. Air thoroughly.