WESTWARD HO!

Greymouth Evening Star, 25 February 1928, Page 18 (Supplement)

WESTWARD HO!

’ With Brunner to the Coast - • Explorer’s Thrilling Story ON 3rd December, 1846, Mr. Thomas Brunner, with a party of four natives, two men and two women, left Nelson on what became one of the most arduous tours of exploration in the history of New Zealand. 'Mr. Brunner’s object was to explore the Buller river downwards to the coast, to seek an opening to the eastward from the lake country and a pass through to Port . . Cooper. The explorer was away in the wilds for 80 weeks and underwent almost unbelievable privations. The food supply the • small party coul(f carry on their backs in such country was soon exhausted and thenceforth the- travellers lived on what they could find in the bush and rivers. Mr. Brunner’s diary was published in 1848, and the appended extracts will give some indication of the magnitude of the undertaking. The discovery of the famous coal seam at Brunner district is mentioned in the diary. Mr. Brunner was awarded the medal of the Royal Geographical Society for this great work of exploration. ? /'

Previous to the planting of the settlement of Nelson in Blind the first British colony on the south side of Cook’s Straits, little of the Middle Island of New Zealand was known tc Europeans. It is true that the greatei part Of the coast had been visited’bj sealing and whaling parties, and i few individuals had taken up theii permanent abodes at the places most frequented as stations, but we have never been able to discover that these men knew anything of the interior ol the island, and we believe their acquaintance was confined entirely tc the'coast. Since this settlement was formed, however, now nearly seven years ago, a number of expeditions have been undertaken to supply that information of the country so much needed; and one of our most enterprising explorers, who has contributed most largely to our stock of knowledge, is Mr. T. Brunner, a gentleman ■ who was formerly attached to the Nelson surveying staff.. Mr. Brunner ‘ made journeys with., Mr. Heaphy and with Mr. Heaphy and Mr. Fox. That with the two latter gentlemen was made in February IS4G, and its object was to ascertain the nature and extent of the tract of country lying on the banks of the river flowing from Lakes Rotuiti and Rotorua (to the S.W. of Nelson), to the West Coast, and to learn whether ■ a practicable route existed across that part iof the island. The other journey commenced On the 17th of March of the same year, was made with Mr? Heaphy, down the West Coast of the Island, as far as the native settlement of' Arahura in.lat. 43 degs. and occupied 22 weeks. , ' WITH TWO NATIVES AND THEIR WIVES On the 3rd December 1846, Br. Brunner again started on his travels, unaccompanied this time by any European, but with a party of four natives, twb men and two women. Ekehu, one of the men had accompanied Mr. Brunner in both his former trips; the other was named EpikiwatiJ a native who was in some /degree acquainted with the country about the lakes, having visited it a year previously. The wdmen were the wives of these men. Mr. Brunner’s object now was to explore the river Buller downwards from where he had turned back with Messrs Fox and Heaphy, in the previous February, and to seek an openaaaitvcirfl frCiTVI tllP Ifl.lCft

ing to tile eastward irom me idhts country, or from the West Coast. It was evident that this journey would necessarily be a protracted one, though it was scarcely expected that our explorer would be absent for the long period of eighty weeks; and. the slight preparation made for his undertaking is not the least remarkable feature of the journey,, when we consider that there was no chance of rpcruiting his supplies, however long he might be detained away, and that the'greater part of the country he would have to travel was wholly uninhabited. The total outfit of food and clothing for the whole party of five persons cost only £33 9s 4d, a sum which must seem truly contemptible compared with the pompous preparations we sometimes hear of for similar purposes. It must be remembered, however, that this journey had to be made on foot, that every individual of the party was his or her own beast of burden, compelled tocarry everything requisite for their individual use and that no human being could have overladen in such a wild broken country as that which Mr. Brunner was now about to enter, The only-, provisions taken was lOlbs of flour, a few biscuits, and a little tea, Sugar, salt and pepper. The bulk of the outfit was spare clothing to replace that worn by the party at starting, two guns and a supply of ariimunition. The journey was commenced by easy stages, and a man employed to assist to carry the loads as far as Mr. Startford’s sheep-station, in the Motueka Valley, yhich was reached on the Bth. This was at that time the most remote spot where any European

resided, and Mr. Brunner waited there until the 11th, to get the assistance of a mule as far as the Rotuiti lake. This was reached on the 13th, when leave was taken of Fraser, the shepherd who had accompanied them and all civilised life. The route was now the same as that taken by Mr. Brunner with Messrs Fox and Heaphy in the preceding February. The Roturoa lake was reached on the 18th, previous to which tile whole party had been affected by dysentery. From the 13th to the 30th was spent in exploring the head of the lake and in preparing fern root for the journey. rain was? experienced which kept the party idle some days. Mr. Brunner found the head of the lake completely shut in by snow-capped mountains, and fed by a large river flowing from the eastward. He ascended a hill in the neighbourhood to endeavour to get a glimpse of the East Coast, but the snowy range obstructed his view. START FOR THE MATUKITUKI On the 31st Mr. Brunner and his party again made a start forward for the Matukituki, and after-experienc-ing niuch discomfort from the almost constant rain, reached his former return station, at the bottom of the Matukituki valley on the 16th-January 1847,__

e At the termination of the Matukituki e which is a valley of some extent, the e Buller, as it has been named, having e received the waters of both the Rotuo iti and Roturoa lakes, and several r tributary streams, becomes a deep and y rapid river. It was here that Mr. Fox a was swept away the preceding year r in attempting to ford it, and the preit sent party found the greatest diflle culty, in passing over from bank to e bank, which the nature of the country f sometimes rendered necessary. The Buller at this point enters a rugged o gorge, and compels the traveller to s find his way along the sides of steep u weeded mountains, the surface of s which is much broken. It was the diffit culty of proceeding through this gorge li which caused the previous party (the - first which had ever penetrated so - far) to turn back, when Mr. Heaphy - estimated the distance from the West i Coast to be little more than twenty 3 miles. From the 25th January to the r Ist February, Mr. Brunner and party I were employed pushing their way t through the difficult country, when i they found that their’provisions were - all spoiled by the rain, which was I almost incessant. They were then ; compelled to retrace their steps as l far as the Matukituki, to prepare a ; fresh stock, for. ouch was the charac- , ter of the birch wood‘in which they i were entangled, that it afforded theni ! hot the slightest sustenance. Having i reached their former hut on the 3rd, ■ they found employment, when the , weather permitted, in collecting and , preparing food, until the 18th, when > they crossed the river previous to again entering the gorge. Mr. Brunner states that on resuming his journey through the gorge, his load consisted of a gun, 71bs. of shot 81bs of tobacco, two tomahawks, two pairs of boots, five shirts, four pairs of trousers, a rug and blanket, and at least 301bs of fern root. With such loads it was impossible to make much way through a' thick bush interspersed with briars, and over rough granite rocks, compelled all the time to search about for the best line of country to get through, and often obliged to ascend and descend the sides of the steep hills to be enabled to get forward at all. Accordingly we found that two miles a day is the utmost distance*our travellers ever could attain, while sometimes they were unable to make more than half a mile, and were often compelled by ,heavy rains and freshes in the riverrio remain altorftther inactive, or emnlov

111 ex 111 cxl LCJgj tJ vll 1 IudLUVCj Ui clUjJlUj' themselves in providing food and shelter. LAST HANDFUL OF FLOUR CONSUMED , On the Ist March, the last handful of flour was consumed to thicken soup. To render this portion of the journey still more harassing, one of the women norir fell sick, and greatly retarded the progress of the party. On the 9th, Mr. Brunner was himself taken ill, and ( for two hours suffered the most excruciating pain. Both the female natives suffered in a similar way, and also one of the men. The illness was attributed to their fern root diet. These delays so retarded the travellers, that on the 10th nearly all their provisions were exhausted, and they were reduced to one meal of fern root in twenty-four hours. No food of any kind could be obtained in the birch woods in which they now found themselves and all they had to trust to was an occasional eel caught in the river. , Until the 6th April there was but little change in the sufferings of the travellers, when they reached a better and more level country, partly covered with pine. Here they obtained plenty of birds, which gave them the luxury of two meals a day. Their way now laid through a valley of rich wooded land, and on the 12th they came to the mouth of a good-sized river, flowing down a large valley, named Makaiona which opened to the southward. This valley is frequented occasionally by natives from the coast. On the 16th another river was met with, flowing from the northward. By the 20th the travellers had reached

• the termination of the valley and c again entered a mountain gorge. • From this time until the party 1 reached the coast, on the 4th June, • their sufferings were intense. The I travelling was of the worst kind, and r the scarcity of food was so great that ' after killing and eating his dog, Mr. 1 Brunner tells us, he was on one oc- • casion without food for nearly three > days. The almost constant rain ex--1 perienccd also added greatly to then* ! misery. Scarcely a day passed but it • rained during some portion of the • twenty-four hours, more or less, and ■ often very heavily for several days in succession. ■ But the disappointment of the tra- ! rollers did not end here. The natives ■ whom they expected to find at a pa on the coast were absent, nor had they left any provisions behind them. Instead of a good meal of potatoes, as ■ they had fondly anticipated, they ■ were compelled to regale themselves on sea-weed. In a couple of days the natives returned, and after staying with them until the 15th, Mr. Brunner 1 started for the native settlement of 1 Arahura, about 100 miles further down the coast. This was reached in safety . and here, and at the neighbouring settlement of Taramakau, our travellers remained until the following ■ spring before they could procure guides to accompany them in their

intended journey through the pass which leads to the grass plains on the East Coast. Appended are extracts from Mr. Brunner’s actual diary as he proceeded on his., journey'. “MOVING WITH MY INCLINATIONS" Wednesday 1 12,th October, 184'7.— With a right good will I mounted my lead on my back and after many shakes of the hand, and much rubbing of noses, I left the Taramakau natives, and for once more felt myself moving with my inclinations. I had the company of the three chiefs here, Te Kau-hauke, Tipiha, and Paeture and his daughter, just in my opinion* a nice little party. Reached Arahura and put up for the night which proved a rainy one. 15th—Moderately fine. Started for . Okitika, a river of some considerable ’ size, at the mouth of which was formerly a large pa. * * * * 20th—Started with the rising sun, and after walking about two miles . came to a curious headland or cliff, 1 named by the natives Paramata . . . e Here is found strata of very fine slate s on a bed of inferior coal, and under 7 a kind of blue clay . . . .We made a * long march,and a little after sunset J came to the mouth of a large stream, s called the Waenganui,. where we r r- T-1 —t- v- r—-

camped for the night at a pa, the natives of which were but found some potatoes from which we took our supper. It was here George Darn,well and party beached their boat. 21st —I believe I may now assert that I have overcome the two greatest difficulties 1 to be met with by bushmen in New Zealand, viz., the capability of walking barefoot, and r subsisting on fern root. The first, the want of shoes, had been' a-dread to me for some time, often fearing I should be left a bare-footed cripple in some desolate blackbirch forest on this deserted coast; but now I can trudge along barefoot, or with a pair of native sandals called by the natives parairai, which is made of leaves of flax, or, what is more durable, the leaves of the ti, or flax tree. I can make a sure footing in. crossing rivers, ascending or descending precipices, in fact I feel I am just commencing to

, make exploring easy work. A good pair of sandals will last about'two days’ hard work. They take about twenty minutes to make.’ * ■* * * 88nd— ... At Wairoa is the wreck of a large sealing boat among a lot of underbrush, about a quarter of a mile from high water. The growth of the bushes, and appearance of the wreck, show that the .sea is fast receding from this coast. This also appears at the mouths of rill the rivers of this coast. Okaritu is the pa where Enihu captured and killed many of the natives, of Ngaitau tribe and also took Tu Uru the chief, prisoner, whom he has since released to return here and work greenstone for him. There is the remains of a very large pa here, which was resorted to for fishing and bird catching; and that it abounds in eels I had full proof during my visit here, our diet being nothing else, and was served out in liberal quantities, to dogs as well as three times a day. There are six natives living here; two men and four women. They are of the Wesleyan church, and apparently very punctual and _ zealrius in their worship. * * * * , 28th—About midday at low water we constructed, a raft of the blossom stalks of the flax and crossed the river when we walked about four miles to a small stream called the Totara. 29th —Walked two miles further to another stream also called the Totara. . Here we were obliged to erect a shel- ' ter against a regular tempest of wind and rain. 30th —Rain continuing.

31st —Showery. The natives proposed oui’ leaving our loads here, and returning to Okaritu to attend Divine service on Sunday. To this I gave consent, knowing I should get a good, dinner and more comfortable lodging. I am much astonished to find, that even in these distant parts, so much should be said by the natives belonging to the Church of England and the Wesleyans, relative to their forms of religion. Although in some places there are only six or eight natives, yet they have two places of worship, and’ two schools; and are always quarrelling about religion, each party asserting its own to be the proper service to God. There are some few who have been christened by the Rev. C. L. Reay and a few by Mr. Aldred the ministers of the two churches in Nelson. * * * * ■ “AGAIN SOUTHING” 9th —Again making southing, and reached a stream called Waikukupa, deep-and not fordable, hut of no other note, and worthless. Passed on to another’ stream, called Miroroa, where we took up our lodgings for the night, having spent much of the day in constructing a raft to cross the former river. * * * * 14th—After walking about three

5 miles along a rocky beach, we came » to a small point called Makawiho, on rounding which we crossed the Wai- . takj, a mountain stream and proceed- - ed to a potato garden at Porangirangi, where we put up for the night and the Sabbath. Distance, about nine miles. Nov. 15—Natives read service. There are only 97 natives, adults and children, living on the West Coast r north of latitude 44 degrees, 29 of r whom are members of the Church of ’ England and 68 Wesleyans. They all 1 profess to follow some faith. 16th—Started early this morning, [ and after walking about six miles, 3 arrived at Parika, the residence of ’ Tau stream called Himakura, of no T note or value. At Parika we received 1 the welcome of strangers in a bounL tiful supply of fern root and preserved wekas and fish. There is noth- •’ ing remarkable here and the place is 5 only a summer residence on account * of the eels in the river. The natives preserve the birds they catch during the winter months, when ’ the birds are in excellent condition, 3 in a rimu or seaweed bag. The bird is ’ opened down the back, and all the bones taken out; the flesh i& then laid 5 in a shallow platter made of ’bark of the totara tree, called a patua, L when they cook the bird by applying * red hot stones. They then place the > cooked birds-, in the rimu bag, and 5 pour over them the fat extricated : while cooking, tying tightly the mouth of the bag. I have eaten of birds kept two years in this manner, and found them very good. Eels and seals are also preserved in this way, Using whale oil for their preservation. The natives much worship their greenstone meris, or battle-axes of former times; so much so, that they are buried with their owners, when, after remaining in the ground some five or six years, they are dug up and given to the nearest relation of the deceased. They have also safe hiding places for them, in order that, if surprised and conquered, as in former times, their enemies might not find them in their spoil. I saw one belonging to Te Raipo, which has descended from time unknown, and for which they say Enihu made. war on their tribe to obtain, but could not find it, the meri being hid at the bottom of a deep pool o£ water. 17th—Staying at Parika, eel catching for our onward dieting. ISth —A shower of rain formed in, our united opinion, a sufficient excuse for remaining here • another day. We managed to dry enough eels to last a week. There are no provisions to be found here saving the Katoke. AN UNFORTUNATE ACCIDENT 19th—After walking about three miles we came to a headland called Titihaea from which I slipped, or rather, was washed from a rock by the sea, and crushing my feet between the rocks, put out my right ankle, which caused me much pain. I was also hurt in several places by the sharp edges of granite. Finding I could not clamber the rocks, I allowed myself to be led towards Parika', which my lameness and the .tide, prevented us reaching. 20th—With much pain I crawled to Parika where I bound up my leg-and repeatedly bathed it in cold water, which served to lessen the pain. I dressed my other scratches with weka oil. * * * * 20th—Paeturi and Tipia requested leave to return to Taramakau, leaving Te Raipo with me. This I was com- . pelled to agree to. Almost consumed . bv the quantity of fleas. '

| M J Lilv LxCvlx LAvJ* L/L HvCXO* From 27th November to 10th of De- ' cember, Mr. Brunner remained at ' Parika unable to travel in consequence of the accident which had just occurred to him, which caused him great suffering. During this time also there was much rain. ' 11th December—Yesterday I resolved to return to Mawhera, and then rejoin my own natives, and endeavour once more to see a white face and hear my native tongue; so I retraced my steps to Porangirangi. I was induced to make Parika or rather, Titihara the terminus of my southing, for several reasons. My lameness had made me anxious to return to Nelson, the summer season was fast approaching to a close, and I dreaded the idea of another long winter; the country I was travelling through was quite worthless, and certainly so in respect to Nelson, and I had a wish of returning by a fresh route, and of seeing more of this country; I also resolved to try getting back by the Mawera, if I should abandon the idea of crossing the island from Taramakau to Port Levy. Had I urged the natives to proceed more south with me, 1 could not get their services to assist me with a canoe up the Mawera. So that being here without resources, 1 was much at' ’the mercy of the natives, and Ekehu having a runaway wife from Wakapuaka, he dared not return by the coast, the shortest route. When I told Te Raipo of my resolution of returning, he was very glad and said that having only one white man was too great a! responsibility on his hands; if there were two, he would not care, as, if any accident occurred one mie-ht live tn tell the fate

currea, one migni live to ten tne rate ’ of the other. “But,” he said, “if you J died it would be said that I had killed ■ you for the sake of eating or plunder- ! ing.” * * ’fc * 20th and 21st—At Okitika. 22nd—Walked to Arahura, where I ' feasted on early potatoes—a treat, having lived lately on fish. 23rd—Walked to Taramakau. 24rd —Walked to Mawera, there being a great meeting there to attend Christmas Day. **•-:<* 29th—Walked to Okitika where I was free from fleas, dogs and old women, the native Tipia having built a new house to receive me. While I was at Okitika,' one of the native children, the son of Tipia, a boy of about seven years of age, took such a fancy to me, that it was with difficulty that I could part with him, for when I was leaving he clung round my legs and cried, and at last I was obliged to leave him with force. His father wanted me to take him with me, but his mother refused to part with him, at which I was glad, for he would have been much trouble to me in difficulties and not able to ■bear the hardships of the bush. A YEAR WITH THE NATIVES 31st—Terminates an eventful year of my life, the whole of which I have

3 spent amongst the natives, and chiefly i on the banks of the Buller or Kawa- - tiri, and during which time I have - lived on the natural produce of the , country, and the few potatoes I have 1 had on the coast, which from want 3 of cultivation, are almost in their ’ wild state. I have never heard a word . of English the whole year. I** * , * t Sth January—Suffering under the f pain of a severe toothache. f,* * * * [ 20th—Tipia returned to Okitika, having accompanied me to carry a , kit of dried fish which his wife had , given me. E 21st—My face had swollen so much ) that I could not manage to eat. > [*' * * * 20th —This morning freighted our - canoes with our provisions, clothes, - and fishing apparatus. ’ I considered 5 myself on board the admiral’s canoe, t it being the largest and first to start, having in company three others. It is r really a very exciting scene to see i four canoes poling and paddling up a , fine stream on a fine day. We stemmed > a.bout five miles of the. river, and i damped at an old fishing station, I prettily situated on an island, called Mautapu, which , rises about one hun- , dred feet above the level of the river. ; At this place the river is confined bej tween two black birch hills. About a I mile above Mautapu is a seam of coal [ of apparently very fine quality, prei senting itself under a strata of mica ; slate. The coal is hard and brittle, I very bright and sparkling, burns free- ! ly and free of .smell. The seam is some ' feet deep, and level with the river’s edge. From this place the valley ex- ’ tends itself to a large level district ’-fir New Zealand. There is much open ' land here. - , , 27th —Paddled up the river to a ! point where it divides itself into two . branches, one of which is called Kotu- ! Urakaoka, and is a pass to the East : Coast bearing S.E, Stopped here for the night the natives wishing to fish. ■ This is the place where Ekehu lost , his father, and himself was taken prisoner by the Ngatitau tribe. 29th —Ascended the branch, and by 1 night reached the lake, a fine sheet of water of about six or seven' miles square, near the middle of which is a small low island, once a fishing station where we camped. Fine day. LAST BIT OF TOBACCO 30th— . . . This is the lake frequented by the natives on their route to the East Coast. This is a memorable day for me, having just put my last bit of tobacco in my pipe. I am afraid time, or rather, wet weather, will seem long, now I have no amusement left. There is a fresh-water mussel called Kaichay, abounding on some lakes, and which we found in the Rotoroa, which when boiled with the roots of the raupo, or bulrush, makes a palatable dish, and is the favourite meal of the celebrated savage Rauparaha. 31st—Returned from the lake to the main stream, where we left the women and canoes, During our absence the women caught a,supply of fish. February- Ist—Again started, leav- . ing all but my own party behind. ' 10th—Were brought to a stand by a fall of snow, when wc erected a shelter. * * * » Feb. 14— Walked about three miles and came to a large shingle bed, where the river divides itself into several branches. After some exploring about, we took the branch to the north, and ascended about two miles when the I-. 1 1 t’ 11 _ 1

rain began to fall so we had to erect a shelter. * * * * 16th—I made a sally out, and ascended a' high tree, found we had taken the wrong branch of the river its bearing being too much north. ... In this river is found the stone used by the natives for rubbing down their ponomo, a quality resembling Newcastle stone. * * # *

e n 17th—There is a particular tapu ex--1 isting among the natives relative to - the eel. You must wash your hands before going to catch them, and ’also on returning; thq bait must be pre- k pared some distance from the house; I for cooking the eel there must be a , distinct fire for which you must have a special tinder-box. Your hands and mouth must be washed before and - after partaking of them; and should 1 it be necessary to drink from the same stream from which the eels are caught, you must have two vessels for [ water, one to drink out of the other 1 to dip from the stream. Whether this i. relates to particular places I am not aware, but at Okitika and Okaritu, i i found it strictly adhered to, having i had at the former place to walk half : a mile for water, when a stream was i only within a few yards of our sta-. , tion. > 18th —A fine morning after the fog : had risen, and,, again mounting our ■ respective burdens, made a start, leav--1 ing our wrong turn . . 1 The rGey is certainly a fine river for New Zealand and worthy the name of our Governor, after whom it is called ... * * * * 21st—Walked along the grass plain about four miles, when we came to a division of the river, where I resolved.

r to look ahead before I carried my. - load;. so I went forward, and ascende ing a small fern elevation of the grass e plain,*l chose the branch bearing most 3 E. lor our course, and returned to t my encampment. c # # < * 1 23rd —There is nothing like keeping ’ up the stock of provisions in the bush, whenever an opportunity offers, al--3 though your back has to suffer from the weight; for in this country it is oftener much easier to exhaust than/ , replenish your stock. I am obliged to i keep the natives aa well fed 'as pos--1 sible, for they are continually murmuring, and telling me they are sure, i if they continue to follow me, I shall starve them. They have several times threatened to return to Mawera, and r live with their countrymen, rather , than take their chance in the bush of 1 safely reaching Nelson. The natives , bear hunger badly, and become irrit- , able in temper and lazy. . . ' * * *' * 5 « THE GREY RIVER l March 2nd— .. . Some of the bends j of the river I passed to-day afford the most beautiful scenery conceivi able . . . I am so pleased with the Grey River that I should not object to visit it again. A great number of ’ dogs have taken. to the bush Here, } which sadly lessens the quantity of 1 ground birds, for which this river was formerly noted. t 3rd—The valley <is now fast narrowing, and I hope another day’s walk ’ will take us to the foot of the moun--1 tain range, for I an anxious to get a ' view of the country, to learn some- ’ thing of my whereabouts. t 4th —Commencing to rain. We erectL ed a shelter, but were compelled to restort to black birch for . covering. t In the night the wari separated just > over my sleeping quarters, which _ gave me a most uncomfortable night’s ’ lodging. * * ♦ * 7 th— . . .We took the bed of the ’ river for about two miles, and then * deserted the main stream for a branch bearing E., which we ascended about r one mile. We then resolved to aban- . don the rivers altogether, and take to ; the low range bounding the southern bank. Ascending this and walking ' along the ridge for about three miles, we discerned a river, distant about two miles, and agreed to make a push, to spend the night on its banks. We reached it just at nightfall, when the thunder, which 1 had been following us 1 all day, overtook us, and we had to ’ erect a shelter by, the light of the firb. Bth—On looking about this morning, we found this to be the Oweka, a river flowing into the Buller., The pass from the branch of the Grey to the Oweka is a single ridge, with not much inclination, easy of ascent and descent, and the bush open and free of roots. A communication from river to river even for a cart, might be made by simply clearing the underbrush ': 9th—Started to cross the valley, taking an easterly course. Found the valley to be about three miles wide, : when we came to the rising ground, ■ which we ascended, and slept on the side of the mountain. ’ # j 10th—Reached the summit of the ( hill this evening, and found it to be ( covered with a low fern commanding - a fine view of the interior of the i Island. I could discern mountains i which I knew at the Roturoa, with the j river Buller, and on the West Coast, but the weather was too foggy to ad- c init of my seeing the lowland. 1 ’ j A DISAPPOINTMENT J lith—Being a fine clear day,* I A

- could see the large grassy plain of Port Cooper . ! . . The told me their pass over this range to the ■ east, is low and easy ... I am told some natives a few years ago, crossed the island in seventeen days. I mpch wished to descend to the grass plain, and try and .reach the Eqst Coast, but the natives one and all refused, 'and told me’ I had kept them too long away from Nelson, arid that the 'payment I promised them was too little for what they had previously done; and even on a promise of a further payment, they also refused; so I was obliged reluctantly to abandon my desire apd return towards Nelson. 12th—The natives, not willing to spend the day ( on the summit of the hill, and refusing to follow the course I wished to take to reach the Matakitaki valley, saying , that if I did not return ’to the river, they would do without me, for that we should all be starved if we ventured to push forward by a short route in a black birch country, I was compelled to descend the hill by nearly the same route I had ascended. 1 did not wish to. fellow the circuitous course of the river, but to travel by compass towards the Matukituki valley, or the Roturoa, but the natives said that the river was the only place where food could be obtained. 13th—Reached the banks of the river and. camped about a mile from where we first made .it. 14th—The natives having heard numerous cries of the weka last night, wished to stop here, to which I assented, having again hurt my ankle, and which was giving mb much pain. Tile weka or wood-hen is 'the most useful and valuable bird for a bush-

ranger. ’ 15th —1 was surprised on awaking 1 this morning to find a fresh in the ’ river, having had but little rain yesterday. We, however, made a start, and walked a mile down the bank, when the natives finding a spot they fancied for eel fishing, they wanted to, stop. I became angry, and urged the necessity of proceeding, stating we had plenty of provisions, and were losing fine weather; so they agreed, and I again mounted ~my load, and proceeded, when on looking back I saw the women still at the eel station.' On remonstrating with them I only got laughter, and I was forced to laugh too, for I find there is nothing like showing good temper when dealing with these natives; besides, I doubt if it would really answer to quarrel with them in such wilds and so far from a settlement. 16th—The game list of yesterday stood as follows:—29 wekas 1 ,2 young paradise ducks, I grey duck, 2 dabchicks, 2 sparrow-hawks, and 17 eels. What we are to do with all I- do not know, for as to eating them" while sweet it is impossible, and we have no means of keeping them unless we stop to construct an air-tight bag of totara bark, which I object to on account of delay. There is some difference in our stock of provisions now, < and in the month of May;, last year,

’ which I spent on the Buller River, and • so is a bush life full of leasts and 'fasts.... •. 17th—Another fine day and again |on our way, still keeping,on the bank of the liver, which was now rapidly increasing in size from the drainage ot the surrounding country. 18th —The • appearance of the weather, after walking about five miles, induced us to stop and erect a shelter in a fine manuka grove, using / the bark of trees for thatch, which is very .watertight and easily obtainable. * * ♦ * 20th- —I believe if we had provisions spoiling for want of eating, and had. loads under which we could scarcely stagger, nothing would induce Ekehu to pass a weka, or remain at the fire if there was a chance of an eel in the river, so great is his natural love of sport. So it was last night; I pressed on him to forbear fishing;' but no, he must be off, and return with 20 eels. , 21st —Two or more persons crossing a river will find it much easier and safer for all to hold one stick, using both hands to it, and holding it on the palm of the .hand, the elbow downwards, the strongest person being up the stream; the quicker you walk the better,, taking care to keep the step of the leader. It is a curious feeling, particularly to your feet, which from the force of the stream and slipperiness of the stones, seems scarcely to touch the bottom. 22nd—A fresh, in the river, the beastly drip of the bush, with a plentiful supply of provisions, fdrmed sufficient excuses for remaining under our comfortable shelter another day. 23rd —Made a start and after crossing the jwer five times, the water breast high, for the sake of getting shingle walking, came’ to a reach, looking down which we.could discover the country of the Buller, when my companions started to try who should arrive there first. When we reached the Buller, we found it much swollen. Walked about seven mjles during the day, the country presenting the same appearance as before. .. .• 7 ' ■ 24th —Again on my way for Nelson, retracing my steps on the banks of the Buller, but it . was on the .southern bank we were now traveling. Made a moderate day’s walk. Found a kaka’s nest containing five young birds. 25th —Moving forward at a good pace, having accomplished as great . a distance in the last two days as we did in three on our journey down, the river on the northern bank. Tried a new species of fruit, the berries of the mako, which is very palatable when you have attained the proper knowledge of eating them. You must gauge your mouth so that your teeth ■ will only slightly crush the berry without breaking the seed, which has a most nauseous bitter taste. 26th—Last night, took . a draught with our net, and caught about fifty good-sizeti upukuroro. * * ♦ * . 30th—Very bad walking. The immense gigantic rpdks that belt the rivqr. rendered it impossible for us to keep to the bank, and the mountains were too high to ascend, so our day’s walking’ was one continual ascending the spurs, and descending the water courses, which only brought us on a short distance by nightfall, when there was every appearance of rain. . 31st—Just as we were turning into our blankets last evening, rain came pouring down. We, however, managed to find squatting room under a large dead tree that had been blown down, which kent us drv until mornins*

ncpi UO UUUX f when we built a shelter. * April Ist—Heavy rain and gusts of ' wind, which gave us all a good soak- ‘ ing. Luckily Ekehu had caught eels 1 enough to last us two days with mod--1 eration. ’ 2nd —Rain and thunder. A fresh in ' the river. 1 3rd —The rain continuing to pour > down. About midday a stream came ’ rolling down the cliffs above us, de- ! stroying the shelter on which we had been working all the moaning to render our situation comfortable. The , fresh also increased so fast, that the natives declared we must find means to ascend the cliff or we should all be carried away by the flood, which presented us from going either backward or. forward. So we made a sort of. ladder, and managed to clamber up about twenty feet to another ledge, to which we drew up enough of our old’shed to erect a break against the wind, but against the • rain we had no shelter; and we were.just able to keep the kits containing , our food, dry during the night and nothing more. A DAY ON A CLIFF • 4th—Made our shed habitable; rain and thunder continuing. This was truly a wretched day’ to spend on a cliff in a black birch forest. The rain poured down in torrents, and loosened the stones of whiifli the hill is formed, and these rolled by us and plunged into the river with a fearful rioise. The wind tore up trees on every side, and the crash which ensued caused a simultaneous shudder by. all hands. , s—An increase in the gale; and the fresh in Che river exceeding all bounds having reached forty feet perpendicular.. God only knows when we shall

be able to proceed, for to ascend is ; impossible, and we can move nowhere 3 until the fresh subsides. 6th—Showery, with rain at night. 7th—Should to-morrow prove as fine ,'as to-day, I hope to be once more r moving, the fresh rapidly going down. ), Bth—The fresh having a little sub--3 sided during the night, we managed 3 to get a short way along the cliffs, - and ascend an exceedingly perpenl dicular hill. We pushed on, scarcely - allowing time for breathing, and by ’ dusk reached the river’s edge, where i we camped. : 9th —The weather is determined to . . try our constitutions, for soon after i rolling our blankets round us last ; night, it commenced raining heavily, ! and continued all night, so that by morning we were soaking wet through . when we commenced building a shelter, but the rain ceased and a fine day followed,, so we moved on about a mile to a shingle beach, where we spread our kits to dry. 10 th—This long rain having caused so great a flood in the river, we consumed all our dried fish, and not being able to catch any more, the bush destitute of feathered tribe, I told the natives as we had nothing to spoil we must push forward although it was raining, and endeavour to find a -supper. In this we succeeded in dis(Continued on next page).

Westward Ho i—Continued. ■' ‘ ‘ ‘ 7 covering, a fern tree. Made a good day’s walking. 11th—Again progressing, and making for Nelson, but walking slowly, owing to Epiki’s lameness. . . Bad lodging—a granite rock with no firewood, and, what was worse, no sup'M3r. '2th—A little before daylight the began to fall, and continued’ in omart showers all day, but having nothing for breakfast, we had no alternative but to brave the rain and seek for the means for one. After walking about four miles, we came to a small patch of sand, when we saw the upukuroro reascending the river from the flood. Having no provisions, we camped, made our kugenga, and get to work fishing. Caught one hundred and fifty fish during the day. There being no material for erecting a' shelter, .we foisted our blankets for a shed, but found that a year’s bushing had made a sad alteration in ■ their waterproof qualities. 13th—Caught about the same number of fish as yesterday, which we dried. 14th—After packing our fish we started, and made a good day’s walking. A slight shower during the day. A SERIOUS ILLNESS 15th—This morning I could not stir, having lost the use of my side, and although I had~never before been any hindrance to the natives, alw*ays carrying my full share of the loads, and helping to get firewood, etc. Yet I had the mortification of hearing Epiki propose to Ekehu that they should proceed and leave me, saying that I, appeared too ill to recover soon, if ever, and that , the place Vhere they were was devoid of food, lilt Ekehu refused to leave me, and Epiki and his wife then started forwards. I received great kindness from ; Ekehu and his wife for the week I

was compelled to* remain here, the woman attending me kindly, find 1 Ekehu working hard to obtain food for us, always pressing upon me the best. He frequently told me he would ’ never return to Nelson without me. 1 16th —Self ill. Ekehu went eel-fish- ’ ing to try and procure me fresh food. 17th and 18th—Raining. 19th—Fine. Ekehu went searching 1 for . food, but found only two or three thrushes and a fern tree. 20th—I was able to move about, but still without the use of pay left side. 21st—Something better, but in pain. Rain. 22nd—Although I could only stand on one leg, yet I resolved to try and proceed. Ekehu had scoured the country, but- could find nothing eatable within reach, and he would vot leave me for a night, so he carried my bed clothes forward some distance, and then came back and partly by carrying and partly leading me, assisted me along. 23rd—I was able to proceed, though slowly, by the aid of a stick and Ekehu’s hand. 24th—It was with great difficulty I could move at all to-day,. but want of provisions compelled me. Found two fern trees and made an oven. 25th—-About midday we overtook Epiki and his wife, who had been scouring the country for birds. I was unable to proceed without assistance. Raining all day. 26th—Reached a stream flowing from the southward, called by the natives Muri-ira. It is opposite to our i •cave and former return station to < Matukituki,. .Tried to ford the stream, but found it too deep and rapid. Rain i at night; < 27th—Finding no materials to construct a raft, we were obliged to ascerid the river in search of a ford. ( Found many likely spots, but on try- - ing them they were all too deep and rapid. Raining.

28tli—Ascending the river about four miles, we came to a division of the stream, caused by an island with a short shingle reach on either bank. The river up to this spot is confined between large rocks. We again ventured to ford, all holding on by one stick, and reached the other bank safely, having had to swim part of the way over, and of course thoroughly wetting our clothes, which took some time drying, for it rained all day and being in a pine forest we could find nothing for a shed. We, however, found firewood in plenty, and having a soaking wet night, we all sat round the fire under the shelter of our native mats, and felt the rain and cold very much, for our stomachs were empty. We had nothing by us for a breakfast. There is a considerable quantity of good forest land on the banks of the Muri-ira, and the natives say that there is a grass plain at its source, to which they formerly resorted in search of the kakapo, or green parrot—the hills of the Oweka being the route taken. 28th—The day occupied in retracing our steps on the bank of the river towards Matukituki. A fine night and sleep without shelter. Sunday 29th —Ekehu said that hunger was no Sabbath keeper, so we proceeded and reached the banks of the Buller, where we slept. A shower of rain towards the morning. THE “MATUKITUKI” 30th—Reached our old shelter at Matukituki, which we found standing. Collected sortie fern root, and quelled our, hunger. 6th—l again felt much pain in my side, and was unable to use it; my eye and hand were even affected. 7th —Finding I was unable to move, Epiki and wife went forth to endeavour to find wood hens; Ekehu and wife remaining with me. < ♦ * * ♦ 11th—Heavy fall of snow all day. i

14th—Still without the use of my ’ side, and suffering from pain owing to . the change of weather. 15th—Ekehu collecting ti roots. The river much swollen. If I had been able to move, it was doubtful if we could have progressed owing to the snow. I was also seized with a violent vomiting, which lasted all day and night, and my side gave me much pain. I attributed it to t'he badness of the living, and exposure to the cold weather. We left here all our old clothes, none of which I had previously thrown away, also my pot, and two specimens of greenstone (one 16 inches long, 6 broad and 1 inch thick, the other piece was smaller and both considered valuable by the natives) some pieces of mica slate for pplishing -the greenstone (on occupation which had afforded me amusement cn wet days), three good nets, and lots of small articles, which Ekehu securely left for his return here. 19th—This morning Epiki and wife made a start for Nelson. I refused to proceed from inability. Ekehu and wife went out searching for food, so I was left alone during the day. He returned in the evening and was anxious to proceed. I told him I would try in the morning. 20th—I made an attempt to start, and packed up, leaving everything we could behind us, for I could not carry anything. Managed to reach the Tutaki, which we ascended about a mile to a ford, and crossed over, when we found Epiki catching birds. We exchanged with him some berries for a few wekas and had a good supper. 21st —After walking a short distance the rain began to fall heavily; when we camped and built a shelter of manuka bark. 22nd—Travelled to the termination of the valley and camped. A slight fall of . snow all day. Sought shelter under a large totara tree.

r -83 rd —Finding a kokaka tree, tin ) berries of which the natives are very fond of, delayed us some time; but , walked a short distance farther and ' camped on the banks of the Tiraumea. , Rain fell during the night. > A SERIOUS LOSS ; 24th—Our clothes being wet by last I night’s rain, we proceeded to our . shelter of last year, an overhanging : rock, which protected us from the . rain, and there dried our clothes. A small basket of mine, which was hanging to the roof of our rock, fell down on the fire during the night and was burnt, by which I lost all my sketches, several skins of birds, some curiosities, two letters which I carried for the Messrs Deans, in case I had crossed over to the'east coast, and some memorandums, which may cause my journal to seem incomplete in many places. 25th—Proceeded a short distance and built a shelter against the rain or snow which seems to fall here every day towards evening during the winter months. 2nd June—Started and found the river very cold; so much so that after walking a short way we left Epiki and wife behind who were cramped with the cold. Cold and no fire. 3rd—After waiting some’ time for the coming of Epiki, we made a' start and reached our former sleeping place at the junction of a small stream from the hills. 4th —Epiki and wife arrived, having been all night on the hills. They had lost their way and had been without food since we left them. Went a short distance and camped. sth—Reached the lake at mid-day, and found our canoe safe. Slept,at our station. 6th—Launched our canoe and crossed the lake. 7th —Erected two sheds against falling rain, made of black birch, one of

e which fell down and struck my lame y side while I was lying by the fire and t hurt ine very much. d Sth —A fresh floated our canoe halfi. way across the lake before it was missed. Ekehu’s wife volunteered to swim out and bring it back, which she t did, and we hauled the canoe up safe. . Proceeded forwards, and camped on , the Puhawini range. Rain all night, g which made everything soaking, and kept us shivering. 9th—Reached the river Puhawini, j named the Howard, and built a shel--5 ter. 10th —Rain, snow and a fresh in the ’ river. . 11th —Reaching our former shed, we j searched the country all round for j food, but found none and the river 5 too deep to wade. 1 AN IMPORTANT CONCLUSION , Now, having traced the banks of j the Buller from source to mouth, and > returned by the Mawera, I am certain j there is no accessible pass across the island north of the Mawera,-nor any , practicable route from the Nelson set- . tlement to the grass plains at Port Cooper but the coast from the Wai- ( ran. 12th—Came upon our old quarters on the Rotuiti and saw six sheep, also . the tracks of a large flock; which much astonished me. Snowing. 13th—With much difficulty we crossed the river Rotuiti. Saw some hundreds of sheep feeding oik the ■ grass there but no recent shoe o! fi root- ; marks. Having no provisions, I was , afraid of exploring for the station or .] road but went towards the hill over ■ which I had twice travelled before. , 14th —Reached the junction of the' < Mokopiko and Mapo rivers, and ( camped. Caught 25 wood-hens so we were all able to’enjoy a full meal 1 once more. » t AN ENGLISH VOICE AT LAST -J 15th—Came to the old survey house i

on the Mokopiko, which we found fallen. Ekehu and his wife much wished to stop here, as Epiki and his wife were behind. I said that I should push on and endeavour to spend the night at Fraser’s, at all events, on the side of the Motueka, and when I mentioned tea and bread the woman agreed to follow me.. I pushed on to prevent hearing the grumbling of Ekehu about sore feet, for after dark we were sorely pricked by the ground thorn and reached Fraser's- at 10 o’clock at night. He rose arid gave me a real hearty welcome, and a smoke of good tobacco. So I thanked God that I had once more reached the abode of civilised man, of which I had many fears during my illness, the thought of which preyed on my mind. It is a period of nearly 560 days frpm the time I wished Fraser good-bye on the banks of the Rotuiti river arid ray seeing him at his house this evening. I have never during this time heard a word of English save a broken gibberish of Ekehu, and the echo of my own voice and I rather feel astonished to find I could both understand arid speak English as well as ever, for, during many 'wet days, I had' never spoken a word of my own language, nor conversed even in Maori, of which. I was well tired. Mr. Brunner at the conclusion of his notes made a forcible appeal on behalf of the few natives scattered along the West Coast, who were cut off from almost all intercourse with the rest of theii- countrymen, and were neglected by the Government and the two great missionary bodies who exert themselves sb greatly to advance the condition of the Maori race in other parts of the island. .S Mr. Brunner expressed the opinion that the introduction of goats on the the West Coast, who were cut off from natives there. They'also, he said, .stood in much need of axes and other tools.