MAINLY FOR WOMEN

Greymouth Evening Star, 14 January 1928, Page 10

MAINLY FOR WOMEN

ITEMS OF INTEREST

(Notes by

Marjorie)

COLONIAL WOMEN. OUT OF PUBLIC LIFE. “Because they have more leisure for undertaking legislative work at Home than in the new countries where there is "still so much development work to be done.” Such is the explanation given by the Duchess of Athol, M.P.. when asked by an overseas visitor why Englishwomen have gone so much more into legislative life than is the case in the various colonies. Because we have still to make some of our roads, women must stay out of public life. One would think New Zealand women worked in gangs to clear a way through Waipoua bush (writes Constance Clyde). The development work falls on men far more than women, and should be a reason for us being in a majority on the legislative benches. Perhaps the Duchess did not care to point out that in her rank men are, perhaps naturally, less jealous of feminine power than in other walks of life, and, of course, once women in her . position have received honours, it is easier for others to break through. The Duchess, by the way, is a member of the Presbyterian Church, and she has been making eager inquiries as to anything in the constitution of that church which would debar women from receiving official positions in the fold.- The Duchess has worked'hard for the position which she now fills. She was made a Dame of the Empire for war service, and, having done valuable work for education, joined the Unionist Ministry in 1924 as Under-Secretary for th Ministry of Education. She has been twice elected as member of Parliament. 1

FANCY PAPER DRESSES. What kind of costume could you devise from some rolls of patterned and coloured paper, a pot of paste, and a parcel of safety pins? Think it over and evolve some costumes. It is quite likely that you may find yourself called upon to become an amateur dressmaker or tailor at any moment, and at the shortest notice. This is the way of it. English society, after a spell of apathy in regard to fancy dress parties in any shape or form, has suddenly adopted the idea of “dressing up” with the greatest enthusiasm. The most successful parties of the season have been organised at the eleventh-hour affairs, at which fancy dress has been compulsory.

The fashion is now spreading ' to country house gatherings. At a recent house party of young people given by Miss Rosalind Norman, at Ramster, Sir Henry Norman’s country house at Chiddingford (Sussex), each of the guests was handed coloured and patterned paper, a pot of paste, and a parcel of safety pins, and informed that they must appear at dinner in a complete costume. A prize was promised for the best and most original toilette. The results surpassed the most sanguine expectations. The costumes included a striking striped frock, a most ingenious jumper toilette, and a Crusader complete with battle-axe.

C. G. W. Women are not supposed to be good preservers of anonymity (or other secrets), but “C.G.W.,” the publisher of Wall Street’s most influential financial journal has had her identity revealed, after sixteen years’ work, as Mrs. C. G. Wyekoff, of New York. Above her initials many brilliant articles have appeared, which have exerted a strong influence in financial circles. Some of the very modern London tea-shops seem to seethe with new ideas (states a London writer). One of the latest seems to be the adoption of the jam cruet. We all love the baby jam pots we used to have as children, and often enough, when you are having tea out, each person’s portion of jam is served in one of these. But the jam cruet will hold about four little pots, so that every table may take its choice of four kinds of jam, or perhaps two kinds and 'honey and marmalade.

LONDON FASHIONS. FOR OUT-OF-DOORS. Out-of-doors the cardigan coat has made its way into suits that are -not essentially for sports (says a London “Times” contributor). The freedom of movement which it gives is its advantage, and it is now usual in a four piece outfit with a long top coat. It has its place in all the simple daytime outfits foi- the South, and in silk kasha and jersey is part of many colour schemes. In two-piece suits with a long coatof velour cloth trimmed with fur there is a. preference .for a frock of satin beaute trimmed with its reverse made with a straight back so that the line of the coat will not be interfered with, and usually with a godet movement in front or a crossover bodice, and its completing diagonal skirt. A few undercoat frocks are buttoned half-way in front and define the figure; but they are slow in finding appreciation. The dominant wrapover effect in all out-of-doors coats has had a strong influence on daytime dresses, the only elaborate frocks being those for formal afternoon wear or with fur wraps of the richer kind made in cape styles; but these again can be wrapped over. Tweed has now become a fashionable out-door material when trimmed with fur —beaver or nutria or some of the better long-haired furs. To look really well the fur trimmings must be

a strong part of the design. But tweed has not displaced coats of such materials as cloth, velvet,' or satin; it has merely become fashionable for morning and informal out-of-door uses and for motorists. There are many beautiful fur-lined coats made of cloth, heavy silk, satin, or velvet. Some have short cape effects; others have plain full shawl or shell collars with long rolls of fur. Nearly all have some novel sleeve, though the wide sleeves that take from the slim outline necessary in a fur-lined wrap are not much liked. A fur trimming above the hem, arranged to finish in an upward line, is popular in coats of all materials. All coats look cosy, so well are the furs arranged. Chestnut and havana browns

are strong out-of-doors competitors with beige for ensembles of all kinds, though black and dark colours are successful as wraps over afternoon dresses. Other brighter colours are too few to be noticeable. There is a decided fashion for beige in American breadtail fur coats; it looks well on the slim.and young, but older women seem to prefer dark broadtail collared with silver fox or a rich sable fur.

The variety o£ fur coats this year shows the welcome that is waiting for fur novelties, but the best fur coats and wraps are made of old favourites. Clear-skinned, grey squirrel coats or capes with fox collars in their own tone are among the most becoming and useful for day or evening. The. working of fur has become far more skilled, and in some coats with fuller backs it is gathered under the collar so that a good line is kept when the coat is closed. When the collar is of the same fur as the w.rap it is usually slightly' gathered into revers. The small hat that matches the coat whether of fur or fabric, is now to be seen in many forms, ; with the brim rolled off the face or cut in front. Some shapes come low and fit closely over the nape of the neck, while the brims are peaked like a shade in front. There is plenty of variety in hats, and most hats are very becoming, as the smaller crown is kinder to most women than a high crown. Felt hats are popular, and there are all manner of little hats with pieces let in of velvet and other ’ materials to vary the crown. Trimmings are still made as part of the hat and are slight and subdued. Fur is not a popular trimming as it gives an air of weight. Feather pads and side pieces of plumage suit small hats that come down well at the back, are rolled off the face in front, and have slightly wide sides. They are usually adorned with big diamante ornaments and look well with formal clothes. Short veils are very slowly coming into fashion. Those that are made of fine net are lightly embroidered or dotted with spots of velvet. There are also a few veils with ear-pieces but they are difficult to wear with any. but very small hats and do not allow for the present odd brims’ and upward turns.

ARTISTRY IN DRESS. Much of the fascination of modern dress artistry is to be found in the skilful piecing together and shaping of. different fabrics. As .a notable example, satins of shimmering surface and dull-faced crepe de chine are combined in a wonderful pattern that looks like a. weave, but in reality is the result of the adroit cutting and piecing of strips of the satin, each insertion contributing to the actual shaping of the garment. In this intriguing manner many of the favourite Paris models of the moment are treated Jumpers as w r ell as dresses. At first glance, such a model is a. simple little creation in two fabrics; whereas actually as a more prolonged inspection reveals, it represents the top note of skill in latter-day dressmaking. The prevalent “picture” effects are similarly deceptive. They look so “easy!” But every dress that so pleasantly recalls the beautiful picturesqueness of the past is fashioned by experts who have mastered the complete art of combining the beautiful with the practical.

WOMAN PHYSICIAN. Dr Joana Lopas, a very able woman physician and ardent suffragist, has been appointed gynaecologist of the Federal establishment for feebleminded women, by the President of Brazil. This appointment, which is a deserved acknowledgement of her former work in the establishment, was made in spite of many men candidates. It ranks Dr Lopas as head of a department with, among privileges, that of a vote, in the conducting of the establishment itself. PHARAOH’S RATTLE. It is reported that among other finds of excavators working in Alexandria recently was a baby’s rattle. It is made of pottery, and there are two small stones inside it. The baby who shook this toy and chuckled at the noise it made lived about 3300 years ago. How little his mother guessed that the baby’s rattle would outlast the strongest forts and walled-in cities of the kings!