TABLE PLEASURES

Evening Star, Issue 23175, 26 January 1939, Page 1

TABLE PLEASURES

FEASTS IN ANCIENT ROME OCCASIONS FOR LUXURY After (Romo’s wars in the East, manners lost their antique simplicity. The days were gone when Cnrius Dentatus wont on cooking his lentils while he received the Samnite ambassadors, or a Caraculla would knead the loaf for which ho himself has ground llie corn (says Dr A. Gottschalk, in ‘ La Revue Beige,’ Brussels). Luxury began to make its way in the dining room. Where once meals were taken first on the threshold of the cottage, then in the atrium (forecourt) when the house became an object of greater importance, the Romans under the Empire possessed several dining rooms, variously placed according to the season. Lucullus had numerous reception rooms, which he used according to the number and the rank of his guests. We know how Csesar and Pompoy turned up once with the idea of taking him by surprise, would not allow him to give a single order to his servants, and found themselves honoured with a magnificent banquet, merely because the master of the house said, “ Serve dinner in the Apollo' room.”

The walls wore adorned with exotic marble panels or sumptuous inlay work. The floors were paved with marble or mosaic, and sometimes strewn with flower petals. Scented fountains played. There were movable ceilings, which allowed the descent at each course of a table fully laid. These tables were themselves of bronze with rich decoration.

The Womans took their meals lying on large couches with three places to each, the one on the left being the seat of honour. These couches were made oF precious woods, or even of silver. They were furnished with cushions, with Babylon _ tapestries, and covered with a material of silky and spongy tissue which _ served for wiping the hands. Originally these couches were three in number, whence the Latin term tiolininm (a couch making three sides of a square!. The guests were accordingly nine in number at most, without counting the “ shadows ” —i.o., the friends whom the invited guests bad the right to bring along with them, and the narasites_ who invited themselves, and took their food seated on benches at the far end of the hall. Subsequently the number of the couches was increased. Triclinia of four couches, of six. and even more, were to be seen; and thev were then .arranged in fanwise setting. The guests, summoned by a, special slave, arrived at the precise hour fixed, foca.in fact there was.never ,uiy waiting fei’ latecomers. Their first consideraV tion was to give themselves a good wash, and sometimes even enjoy the pleasures of _ the hath. Then they changed their clothes, though they would resume their town attire after the feast. Then they had to enter the triclinium right foot first, and a special servant was charged with the duty of reminding the absent-minded of this custom. It was then nroner etiquette to crown themselves with flowers. The

wife Rnci children of the host were present at meals only on exceptional occasions, if guests had been invited. Each guest received two serviettes. One was the sudarium, which he fixed around his neck, and this was meant

for wining the mouth. The nappa was the other, and that was meant principally to protect his clothes. Certain guests brought their own serviettes, which they used for wrapping up their dining clothes after the feast, as well as the little presents which it was customary to offer.

Once the guests were lying at ease and had removed their shoes, the feast beean with Jibations of wine. The triclinium was lighted by torches, then by flambeaux of resin or wax, sometimes by oil lumps, as in Greece. Heating was supplied by braziers. Despite all the sumptuary laws, luxury at the table grew steadily. It displayed itself in tables made of precious materials, in dishes of con-

I siderahle size, in brass, in silver or even in gold. In countless table utensils, in numerous servants with specialised duties. On the other hand the table appliances, which we call the couverfc in. French, were still rudimentary, consisting merely of spoons of different shapes. The use of the knife was quite exceptional. As for the fork, with two or three prongs, that was used only in the kitchen or for sacrifices, never at the table. Like the Orientals, the 'Romans ate with their fingers, a procedure which necessitated frequent ablutions. There were some modish fellows who had special finger stalls made for them, so that they could serve themselves without burning their fingers in dishes still hot. The usual (Roman custom like that of the Greeks, was three meals a day. The first of these was taken in the morning and served, between the third and fourth hour, or, as we should say. from 7 to 9 a.m. It consisted of bread rubbed in garlic and wine. Subsequently they added milk, cheese, honey, cgfrs, and fresh or dried fruit. The second meal was taken between the sixth and the seventh hour—i.e., between 11 a.m. and nnon. But. as happened with the Greeks, and afterwards with ourselves, this meal relaxed itself and grew more and more late, like the meal which follows. The second meal was composed of smoked ham, cold or hot meat, fish, eggs, and vegetables. The merenda, which at first was the name for_ the evening meal, became a little additional repast, a light collation served during the afternoon. The cocna. the chief meal, was served at the end of the day's work, between the ninth and the tenth hour—i.e., between 2 and .'! p.m. The Romans, who had no use for overworking people, considered the day as ended after 1 p.m. They had. in fact, the 24-hour week. Even to-day social amelioration does not go that far, as yet. The coena, which often prolonged itself far into the night, comprised at least three services, and this number subsequently received considerable extension. I

Tho gustotio. originally a very simple service of Itors cl’oeuvre, often taken standing up and before entering the triclinium, became in time a complete meal in miniature. It began with eggs, a custom so general that they are never mentioned on the menus.