Around the Shops with the Advance Shows

Evening Star, Issue 22721, 7 August 1937, Page 26

Around the Shops with the Advance Shows

hy ‘Diana

THE JACKET SUIT AN INDISPENSABLE FEATURE OF THE WARDROBE. The query “ What shall I wear?” can ho answered at any time during tho day by “ a jacket suit.” It is right for the business woman setting off for town in the early morning; for the woman who comes in later to shop; for those who have luncheon appointments ; and for women attending matinees or taking friends to tea. Any woman appears suitably dressed in a well-cut suit until the sun goes down, and the majority of women look tneir best in tailored lines. Accessories, of course, contribute greatly towards the achievement of that air of good grooming, and these are usually determined by the hour of the day. A matching tweed coat is a useful addition to the oufit if days are to be spent in the teeth of a wind. This year the topcoat is not usually made in the same material as the suit. It may show the same pattern in a different weave, and-he of a heavier cloth. Sometimes its severity is broken by a collar of fur. Quite often the jacket and skirt of a .two-piece suit do not come from the same roll. Plain jackets have plaid

Perhaps never before have the Spring Shows been so welcome. This long winter’s cold, grey days have made us most appreciative of what tho new season has to offer. In the shops where the advance displays are now on there is tho lilt of spring, the fresh beauty of youth and the romantic air of past centuries combining with a modern mode which brings back pre-war lavishness and luxury in daring colours.

MATS ARE GAY No item in the ■wardrobe excites the Curiosity or cupidity of women more than hate,'and this season gives copious choice. ' For, the smart luncheon a orownless halo, for street wear “ The Spanish Matador,” for the : afternoon party a cartwheel may be worn, for the cocktail hour a demure bonnet, and for any oocasion\the revived “ pill box.” Crowns have definitely gone down. Hats may. bo, flower-wreathed or, worn with a posy of flowers, fruit, or even vegetables. One model showed a bunch of realistic miniature carrots, and another one of luscious red currants. The summer felt is always popular, and this season shapes are very attractive. The “ Lady Biltmore ” comes from Canada in soft pastel tonings, and each hat is sent out in a smart box. ... Veils have definitely arrived, from the fascinating eyo veil to ono coming well below the chin or even right to tho waist, while some are stiffened and stand out well from- the brim.

FROCKS ARE SIMPLE Frocks for spring are simple in design, short for day wear, 14in from the ground being the most popular length. They are belted at the waistline, and necklines are new and very attractive. Sleeves are short or in some cases comes halfway to tho wrist. Zips arc used for trimming as well as for use, and strike a new note, while wool embroideries on plain materials make a new finish. With these frocks will be worn chic little jackets, mostly in contrasting materials, or with a floral frock, a plain jacket in colour to tone. Linens will be very popular for these ensembles, and patterned linenes this season are charming. The open neck—V. T 7, or round—seems to have disappeared entirely from smart frocks. Necklines are high, whether made with a modified cowl, a straight line, or one or two peaks at the throat,.

COATS ARE CLASSIC The lithe line that Paris has made such a feature of her chic has extended itself to coats, the directoire line gives the illusion of slender grace. This is achieved by the use of pleats that run from shoulder almost to hem or from a smartly-arranged yoke. This applies to our old friend “ the swagger,” this season revived as the “ toss-on.” Sleeves allow only a discreet amount of shoulder fullness and taper to a very low-on-the-hand line. The redingote is an old style revived, and appears everywhere, in the daytime ensemble and for evening wear, when it is made in lace or chiffon to show often a plain taffeta frock beneath.

FABRIC FARCY 'An endless variety of amusing motifs make the prints of spring, 1937, more colourful and youthful than ever before. Drawing their inspiration from the naive embroideries and handblocked designs of many countries, they become a spirited panorama of to-day’s international life. Shaded strawberries, mountain goats, and Persian cat heads, carrier pigeons in flight, heraldic lions, and dancing Tyrolean peasants are sprinkled lightly over many a spring frock. But so cleverly are these handled that tfyey assume a gay and youthful effect in which the design motif is charming, but never too obvious. More flattering than ever, the sheer new woollens have a lacy or smooth weave that is perfect for to-day’s feminine fashions. “Dry” to the touch, they are almost feathery light. And smart women may weigh their fashions carefully, for the lighter they are, the smarter. Beige and cashmere tones dominate in many, daytime costumes. Jersey finds new expression in printed versions, and entire ensembles are made in boucle knits, with a hand-knit look the smart woman wants.

WHAT DUNEDIN WILL BE WEARING WHEN SPRING DAYS APPEAR

skirts, the background, to the plaid reflecting the colour of the coat. For greater contrast a cream jacket sometimes tops a black skirt. The jacket suit varies in type. We have those 'with strictly-tailored lines, changing little from season to season, except in length of skirt, breadth of shoulder, and width of lapel. Then there is the dressmaker suit, which shows more decorative touches in accordance with the general fashion trend. FROCKS ill FULL BLOOM Frocks here are mostly floral with very hold designs. Materials—georgette, chiffon, lace, and pure silk crepe de chine in lovely patterns. Skirts are very full, flaring out after 1 fitting snugly over the hips. The new neckline is high, and sleeves appear on all the newest gowns, or if the gown is decollete and sleeveless, the coat makes up these deficiencies. Flowers are everywhere, large and colourful, and may be worn either high or low, front or back, but the posy is definitely a part of this season’s gown. Evening coats are long, fitted well into •the waist, and are often of the filmiest materials.

ACCESSORIES ARE VARIOUS The advance samples of the accessories so much talked of overseas are arriving every day. Most of them will remain in their tissue paper until the season is suitable for wearing the frocks for which they were designed, but just a few are in order now for evening and street wear. Accessories for spring and summer this year have come from all the fashion centres of the world, and there is a wide choice. They may match the frock or provide a complete contrast. They may be decidedly feminine and “ fussy ” or tailored. They may be worn in sets or be merely complementary one to the other. The American crazo for the small calotte, inspired by the French round

cap, is manifesting itself in the new fashions, and these alluring • little chapeaux are to he worn in the daytime and in the ■ evening. Veils are their usual accompaniment. , Imported French and English handhags show interesting combinations; of two or more materials. Evening bags are again heavily beaded, pearled, or sequinned. Gloves of kid and. suede have novel treatments, and silk pique and crepe are among the fabric's for gloves for summer wear.’ Jewellery is an important part" of the accessory display, the rnahystronded necklace of large pearls being predicted as a great favourite. Gold pearls are also in vogue. Exquisite sets of bracelet, brooch, and earrings, for which synthetic stones , are used, will be greatly used as costume jewellery.