TOURIST PARADISE

Evening Star, Issue 22596, 13 March 1937, Page 12

TOURIST PARADISE

BEAUTIFUL STEWART ISLAND IT? MY CHARMS It is remarkable indeed how few Now Zealanders visit Stewart Island, for apart from its loveliness here one finds a diversity of attractions that make it an ideal spot at which to spend a natural health-giving holiday. It is not generally known that in early days Stewart Island was called the South Island, the present South Island being known as the Middle Island; and there is also a misconception as to the meaning of the Maori name of Stewart Island, “ Rakiura,” or “ glowing sky.” This term does not refer to particularly vivid sunsets, but to the fact that Stewart Island when viewed from a dis--tance on the sea, especially in the summer evenings, is suffused with a strikingly pink colour. It is quite possible that it was given its name by the Maoris of Ruapuke Island, which was the main settlement of the Maoris in bygone days. HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Fascinating are the romantic historical associations of the island, for it was in the early part of last century that the whaling and sealing fleets car-, ried on their occupation. The Maoris lived on Stewart Island in large numbers, and every little harbour and bay has its story of interest, tragedy, or legend. The south of Stewart Island was the scene of the only proclamation of British sovereignty on the ground of discovery by Captain Cook. It was in Pegasus that the first ship was built in the south of New Zealand, and there it was that a certain Frenchman proclaimed himself King of Now Zealand. Peculiar interest also attaches to Pegasus, for it was associated with the notorious Bully Hayes, who was hiding there when a posse of police arrived to arrest him. This arrest he cunningly eluded after entertaining his would-be captors on board his own boat. To-day fishing , operations are still carried out extensively at Pegasus. Stewart Island was purchased from the Native owners in 1864 for £6,000, the negotiations being carried out by Commissioner Henry Clarke and “ King Toby,” or Teone Topi Patuki. Few resorts can offer such a variety of scenery, interesting bird, fish, and shell life, and such unique surroundings for deer stalking as Stewart Island. BIRD LIFE. It is not generally known that Stewart Island and the adjacent islands possess a remarkable feature in bird life, for it is on these islands and most of the headlands of Stewart Island that many hundreds of thousands of all sorts of sea birds from almost every part of the globe congregate for the nesting period. Few of these birds live in colonics at any other period of the year, and .they are seen only singly or m pairs in different parts of the world. The mutton bird, through its commercial use, is fairly well known as arriving in countless thousands, but they are only an item when compared to myriads of smaller sea birds. Only those like Mr Guthrie Smith and Mr Edgar Stead, who have studied these birds in the breeding season, have any conception of what this wonderful invasion means — the amazing scene of this queer assortment of sea birds arriving by the hundred thousand at their nests at dusk, literally hurling themselves with closed wings till the whole ground is one moving mass of bird life. This is only one of the unique and almost unknown features of a visit to Stewart Island. The beautiful native bush, the remarkable coastline of bays, beaches, and deeply indentured arms dotted with innumerable islets, bush-clad almost to the water’s edge, exercise a charm and fascination that few places can equal. The port and main settlement on the island are at Halfmoon Bay, where the township, officially known as Oban, is snugly situated against a background of low hills and beautiful native bush. Accommodation at the island is provided by several first-class hostels, and from Halfmoon Bay in every direction some most delightful Avalks abound, these being admirably listed so that even the least experienced has little difficulty in arriving at his destination. These walks include such as that to Ringaringa Beach, a noble sweep of sand especially well suited to bathing, and to Horeshoe Bay, a walk that embraces bush and coastal scenery, the tracks being fringed by untouched native bush, mostly of p species not found in other parts of New Zealand. The various tourist tracks radiating from Halfmoon Bay all lead to beaches which seem to be one of the predominant features of Stewart Island scenery, rivalled perhaps by the beautiful bush walks such as Fern Gully and Kaipipi, on the coastal road, on which one passes the well-known three sister islands, Faith, Hope, and Charity, lying off Thule, a beautiful little sheltered nook in Paterson Inlet. Fish are plentiful wherever one may elect to take part in such sport, and the favourite spot for dinghy fishing is Golden Bay, a delightful 10 minutes’ walk from the township, where a splendid wharf was erected by the Tourist Department some years ago. Here also is the starting place _ for launches which go further afield, either on fishing expeditions or on tours of the many spots which abound in Paterson Inlet. Launch trips, of course, are also run from Halfmoon Bay. One of the famed beauty spots of Paterson Inlet is the island of Ulva, which lies in the centre of the inlet, and which has with truth been described as a miniature Stewart Island. Here, too, are several walks of great beauty. Another trip of great interest is that to Pryse’s Bay, formerly the base for the Norwegian whaling vessels. At the extreme end of the inlet are two rivers which are navigable for some miles, and at this part also variety is given to the sea trips by two mountains, to the top of which Government tracks have been constructed. VIRGINIAN AND RED DEER. At this part also deer stalkers set out on their quest for Virginian and red deer. An open plain stretches for some 12 to 15 miles, covered with tussock, patches of scrub, lagoons, and swamp, and here deer may be obtained among most interesting surroundings. About these parts and also at the starting points at the river there are several huts and camps for the convenience of Hampers and deer shooters. There have been a number of inquiries concerning Virginian deer from northern sportsmen lately, and at Easter and in May Mr F. H. W. Traill has arranged to take a few parties through to the western' beaches after Virginian heads. The antlers of this deer differ from most others, in that they point forward and downward and are very sharp. In defending itself the Yi r gi n i an Strikes

with its sharp forefeet and antlers, and in the rutthjg season they are very fearless, and when wounded have to be treated with respect. From the river also starts the cart track to Mason’s Beach, famed for its ambergris and its flotsam and jetsam deposited by the warm current from Australia, which flows past the beautiful 11-mile beach. Again, for those who can stand up to a long and arduous walk that from the Pakiahua River to Pegasus over the bare granite tops of hills is one of vivid interest. Most visitors, however, find endless pleasure in boating about the land-locked arms and bays in Paterson Inlet and enjoying the' walks round about Halfmoon Bay,