FROM LONDON

Evening Star, Issue 22209, 11 December 1935, Page 17

FROM LONDON

[By M. S. Primmer.] THE ROYAL WEDDING (BEFORE) To be a member of that powerful organisation the Press has distinct ad-■ vantages. A conscious little thrill passes up and down your spine when yon get this sort of thing: “ Messrs Norman Hartnell requests the honour of your company at the private showing of the Royal wedding dress and trousseau. . - . Cocktails.” I don t think many of us -found convenient previous engagements. At 6 p.m. we were allowed into the salon, photographers and all, and those of us who were lucky got excellent positions; the others stood where they could. That is just the one criticism I would make in comparing this sort of “ showing ” with those in Paris. Here—l suppose owing to terrible rents—salons are decidedly on the squashy side. The mannequins squeeze themselves in between us, along tiny paths, so that we really do not see the “ creations ” sufficiently to appreciate their beauty. Paris has such a, number of fine old palaces that can be, and have been, converted to modern requirements. London apparently keeps its mansions, or at least many of them, to domestic use still. However— Before the view started the manager told the photographers that they would be allowed to take pictures of the trousseau gowns, but that the actual wedding gowns of bride and mams were, by Royal order, forbidden to the camera till after the ceremony. Some, annoyed, walked off. The rest of us were put on our honour to keep back any “ copy ” till Lady Alice should become a Duchess. Meanwhile we were soothed to perfect harmony with festive drinks, salted almonds', caviare, and the like delicacies. Before telling you how the gowns struck me I might mention that when the time came to draw away the screen that hid the gown and mannequin cameramen were asked to go, and to make doubly sure the manager passed along us and looked in all’ possible places where some enterprising person might be smuggling in a little apparatus. It reminded me of “ hide the thimble.” A PRIVATE VIEW, The show was arranged very neatly,I thought. First came a mannequin with the original model that had been shovi'n to Lady Alice, as she was then, this being followed by the actual dress or other garment that had been made for her, carried, not worn. We were thus able to see some of the mysterious working of fashionable “ houses,” ' The first one shown was the going-away ensemble, a, pretty dress in slate-grey velvet, with three-quarter length coat, turned-back hat, and bag to match. The front of the coat had a sort of breastplate made of ermine dyed in shades to tone in with the rest. Then came the sort of dress that I am sure the bride would always like,/ as she is devoted to country life and sport/—a soft, almost self-coloured tweed between fawn and grey. The grey note was emphasised by the large barrelshaped cuffs of the three-quarter length sac coat. Fur trimming, by the way, is evidently much to the liking, of the Duchess, as it came even on evening dresses. A smart little Cossack cap of the same fur—grey lamb—and of course a bag to match, completed what I should call a jolly ensemble. A really’ unusual dress was an afternoon one, with its cascade of tiny flowers (the effect was of a deep niching) from throat to hem, and small cuffs of the same trimming. I suppose greys were chosen so frequently as the bride was really in mourning, which accounts too for her purples and mauves. Grey silver fox—gorgeous things—bordered the long sleeves of an exquisite dinner gown of amethyst velvet, which was completed with a wide soft sash of the same material lined with turquoise blue and- a large bunch of amethyst violets. The fashionable cowl made its first appearance at this stage of the show. The best of all—except the gown—came now. It was a magnificent royal purple chiffon affair that seemed to melt into nothing in the carrier’s hand. Finest tucks, sun-ray pleating, made it billow in foam (sounds poetical, and it was), and I can imagine the sensation its wearer will make when one adds the diamonds that will go with it. Exactly the same shade in a velours de Lyons was used for the cloak, which had an enormous cowl pushed up into a square round the neck. Large cavalier cuffs and big gathers on the high waist line made the whole outfit something truly regal. Such a contrast, and equally beautiful, was the white evening gown, with the most exquisite snow-white ostrich feather cape mounted on white satin, these feathers being the -wedding gift of South Africa. At this point photographers were politely re-plied with cocktails prior to their forced departure. We meanwhile stirred in anticipation as the screen_ was withdrawn, showing us all the bridal costumes. The four little maids had the daintiest frocks, knee length, and looking at first as if trimmed with soft fur. As a matter- of fact these bauds (three- on the skirt and one round the neck) were in fine tulle; tiny Alexandra roses were used on the neckline as a sort of little wreath; another circlet adorned the head, the final touch being given in mittens and wristlets of roses and tiny crystal flowers. The satin of the underdress was, I think, the same material as the dresses for the grown-up bridesmaids. Roses—tiny ones of some composition—and gold loaves formed a wreath round the necks of the plain elegant gowns, gold lame being used for the turned-back cuffs. Their head dresses of seed pearls and crystal leaves looked lovely with their soft gleam. Then came it. Just the bridal gown that any young bride dreams of, the corsage softly draped with its highish neckline and cluster of orange blossom, sleeves long and close-fitting, cascading girdle, and a 4yd-long train. On the head was a coronet of orange blossom with its discreet gleam of silvered stems, from which fell softest and longest folds of pearl-tinted tulle. A triumph of .the dressmaker’s art],

(AFTER) Of the wedding itself you will have heard many details, but 1 am sure this tragic item has escaped your watchful eyes. Rest assured nothing went wrong as far as Royalty and pageantry were concerned. Nevertheless, our courts are stirring in the matter. A well-known French fitter, the most important person in a house, came from Paris to join Schiaparelli, a great name in dressmaking circles. Arrived in London. he worked happily at about £ls a week, then fell to the lure of £2O a week offered by Hartnell, who by this time rejoiced in the Royal order. The former is sueing the latter for wrongful enticement. The latter says there was no contract between Mr X and Schiaparelli, and that he was therefore free to choose his abode for work. The judge is finding the problem rather headachy to solve, and has retired to put on his thinking cap.