SHRUBS FROM CUTTINGS

Evening Star, Issue 21820, 8 September 1934, Page 23

SHRUBS FROM CUTTINGS

MUST COHVEHiEKT METHOD Although shrubs arc propagated in many different ways, the amateur will find that the easiest and most convenient method is by cuttings. Some varieties do not propagate very quickly in this manner, but with most amateurs quantity is not required, and consequently does not influence them (says the Auckland ‘Star’). There are many very pretty shrubs, both in (lower and foliage, ami seeing that they last for many years without needing to be replaced, increasing in size and beauty every year, and requiring very little labour, those who have little time on their hands to spare on the garden could not do better than increase the number of shrubs. Whatever varieties are planted, they should bo fitting for the position where they arc placed, and inquiries should be made ,to their merits or demerits for their particular positions. Many favourites can be increased by cuttings inserted at’this time of tlio‘year Cuttings should be made about Oin long, although any length between (hu and 12in will do, the length depending upon the variety and the length between the joints. It is best to make the cuttings of the current year’s growth with a heel—that is, having a base of (be previous season’s wood. If this is not possible, be sure to cut just below the joint. Once the cutting is taken it should not be allowed to lie about and dry, but should he inserted as soon as possible. Dig a piece of ground in a sheltered corner and dig it fairly deeply so that the base of the cutting is in nice, friable soil’. Lay the lino along it and push the spade into the ground. Then move it about from back to front until a groove about Gin wide at the top is made. Half-till this groove with sand and push in the cuttings, allowing a reasonable distance, somewhere about Gin, from cutting to cutting. The cuttings should be inserted so that at least two joints are above the ground line; the portion that is inserted in the ground must have the leaves removed, but the joints above should have the leaves left on. In the case of deciduous trees —that is, trees which lose their leaves in winter—the loaves will fall, but with evergreens it is essential. After the cuttings are inserted, soil should be filled in and both sides of the row well tinned by treading. This is best done by placing one foot on each side as close to the cutting as possible and treading hard. The cuttings should bo left there for a year, and during that time the surface should bo kept hoed and free from weeds, and if dry weather sets in watering may be necessary.