SEASONABLE WORK
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Very little can be done just now whilst the ground is in such a wet con dition, but advantage should be taken of every opportunity when the ground is workable to carry on as previously advised with the disposal of garden refuse and trenching or digging as circumstances demand.' Plaht cabbages and cauliflowers as previously advised. THE VIHERY * Late grapes such as the Gros Colmar family will be found rather troublesome during damp or rainy periods. It is hard to prevent craclc.ing with so much moisture about. Whenever this does occur clip out the cracked hemes with the grape scissors. By so doing you will probably prevent damping. Tf it appears clip them out, as if left damping will increase until the whole bunch is lost. The only thing to prevent this is to keep the vinery.*as dry and warm as possible. Close bottom vents except on fine days, and leave the top vents only partly closed; but as soon as the weather becomes dry and settled open all vents and doors if possible, as every advantage should be taken to ripen off the wood-as hard as possible for the sake of the next season's crop. It is almost impossible to secure a really satisfactory crop of fruit from green or half ripe wood. THE FRUIT GARDEN Take advantage of all tine days to prepare ground to receive fruit trees, as the planting season is now around again and the sooner .they are got in after the leaves have fallen'the better. As soon as the trees are in this, condition pruning may commence, particularly with small fruits such as gooseberries and currants. These should be got on-with and rubbish cleared'away before the more important tree pruning begins. I shall probably be touching upon this subject next week. THE FLOWER GARDEN Dead (lowers and fallen leaves are bepoming a nuisance now, and should be got rid of as speedily as possible. Fallen leaves quite compensate for their untidyness in .the value of leaf mould alone. Where fallen leaves are in quantity they may be advantageously used for making up hotbeds to protect plants for the winter and raising plants from seeds or cuttings, or they may be stored away in. some, place to rot into leaf mould. Most gardeners are well aware of their real value for pot work or garden work generally. Beds and borders should-bo cleared of all dead plants and flowers. As an-
Duals go out of season clear thou oti and dig and manure the beds. Even though they are not required for planting Spring bulbs, etc., they are all the odder turned up early in readiness to receive other plants or to remain fallow lor the winter. It is impossible to have this work done too early. Transplanting may be carried out at any time from now on, especially with evergreen trees, but rhododendrons, cahmas, azaleas, and similar plants that', are partial to peaty ground are best lifted or transplanted in early spring, after the severe frosts are past. They are quite hardy subjects. Although early frosts may have blackened dahlias, these plants would still improve in the ground by becom ing more.ripe and better filled* for producing strong growth in spring. Continue to plant spriiig-llowenng bulbs and tubers, *but the sooner these are in the better. Plant also pansies, violas, primroses, wallflowers, and polyanthus. Frick out or transplant anemones sown in autumn, giving them wellmanured and well-cultivated ground. Prune climbing plants, including rambler and other hardy climbing rosea. Remove seed pods and faded flowers from roses, and if not already done clip out cross shoots and surplus growth from bush roses to give the shoots left more light and air to finish off their ripening ready- for the spring pruning.
■ Continue to mow, roll, and eleai away fallen leaves from lawns. New lawns sown clown in autumn should bo mown well down with the scythe and afterwards rolled and later on mown with the machine if necessary, although the season for mowing is about oyer. But it will improve lawns to give them a good heavy last rolling for the season. HARDY BULBOUS PLANTS . Of all the family of hardy bulbous plants there can he no doubt that the lily Lilium Auratum heads the list, and those_ splendid flowers will always insure a high degree of favour. Suitable lor either pot work under glass or for the open border. In either case they arc beautiful. They are particularly fond of peaty soil, either in pots or in the garden. Failing peat, a good mixture for them is loam, leaf mould, and «&nd. They are best potted into small pots first and potted later on, rather than putting them directly into their flowering pots. For growing in the open border give them woll-eultivated ground. Failing peat soil, make it light and sandy, and once planted leave them undisturbed foj several years. Should the soil be heavy or damp place a. little broken-up charcoal or wood ashes for the bulbs to rest upon, and not more than 6in deep. They should never be -lifted before their tops have thoroughly ripened off, neither should the bulbs be kept out of the ground very, long. If it is necessary to do so keep them in boxes of very dry' soil or sand.
To grow lilies well, no matter what kind, itiey should have a_ deep, rich, moist loam. A great point yin their favour is that they require no stakes or supports of any kind. Lilium Harrisii, or Easter lily, is another very fine and easily grown r lily. A great thing in its favour is its long season of flowering, for before one stem has finished flowering another shoots up, making it most valuable both for greenhouse decoration and the open garden. This variety is always best planted in early spring unless in a fairly mild situation, for the reason that by planting in autumn it starts to . send up flower spikes right away, which are liable to bo cut down by severe frost.
Another very beautiful and easily yrown,' lily is the lied Turks Cap (Lilium Pom pon urn). Its brilliant scarlet flowers make a really attractive show. I have had it growing to over 4ft in height. It may be planted at any time after it has ripened nlf its tops. It flowers well in a rich, sandy, peaty soil. ANSWERS “ Chrysanthemum.”—The bloom of chrysanthemum you have sent for naming I am sorry to say I am not sure about. Unfortunately the bloom Ls only a small, half-developed flower, making it more difficult to name. I thought at first it was old Golden Queen, but I am not sure. “ C.J.R.”—You ask why for two years your amaryllis has hot flowered. You do not say what kind. Is it amaryllis belladona, or do you mean the Hippeastrum variety grown in pots under glass? There is a great difference. If you will drop me another note and explain I shall be glad to answer. fI C
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Evening Star, Issue 21724, 19 May 1934, Page 25
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1,173SEASONABLE WORK Evening Star, Issue 21724, 19 May 1934, Page 25
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