SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 21718, 12 May 1934, Page 23

SEASONABLE WORK

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The main concern now is weather conditions. Every opportunity should be taken of line days to push forward the work of clearing spent crops and digging or trenching as circumstances demand, also manuring, as nearly all plants require manure more or less. Asparagus: As soon as the heads or tops have ripened cut down the stem to the ground level and clear off all weeds and give the beds a good dressing of Iresh stable manure, or, what is better still, chopped-up seaweed, this being the most natural plant food for the asparagus. This is a marine plant and found in its wild state on the sea coast of France and Russia. The best time to plant asparagus is in early spring, as soon as the severe frosts are past. Lift Jerusalem artichokes as required, and cut down the tops as soon as they have been blackened with frosts.

Cauliflowers are coming in freely, and care should be taken to bend or break a leaf or two over the heads to protect them against sharp frosts, as this would spoil them for market or household use. Make fresh plantings of these whilst the weather is mild. Continue- to plant cabbages of the Imperial class or Flower of Spring. Complete the work ot earthing up late celery. It should be well earthen up to protect it against severe frosts. Make a sowing ot broad beans to come' in early, but .in very cold districts, where the ground is heavy and cold, it would not be advisable to sow now.

Potatoes that have Been prepared may be planted now, provided the situation is a warm one and the ground open and free. ROTATION OF CROPS This is an important subject, and is always worthy of consideration. As most crops are nearly past, there is no better time to consider this in full, for there is no question as to its wisdom if properly carried out. The crops arb superior in every respect, both in quantity and quality. Some readers may ask: What is rotation of crops? It is the ordering. of a succession of crops in such a manner that they will tax the soil for mineral elements or plant food in a different manner. A good rotation will place tap-root plants in a course between surface roots.' For instance, cari'ots, parsnips, and beet after cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli, , and others of the cabbage family which are termed brassicas; and light, quick surface crops such as spinach to serve as substitute as follow-on crops. Cabbages and potatoes are two of the most exhausting crops wo have. In a ton of potatoes there are about 121 b of potash, 41b of sulphuric acid, 41b of phosphoric acid, and. 11b of magnesia. These plant foods may all be replaced by abundant manuring. ‘The best rotation will not obviate the necessity of manuring, but even then it is well tp crop such ground after potatoes with peas, spinach, lettuce, and other quickgrowing crops that only occupy the ground for a brief space of time. Any given plot of ground should be divided into four parts, and No. 1 devoted entirely to permanent crops such as asparagus, rhubarb, seakale, herbs, and others. Wo then have Nos. 2,3, and 4 to deal .with. These three plots sHoukL-.be kept revolving in -this way; No-, 2 planted with potatoes, celery, locks, carrots, parsnips, beet, etc. No. 3, peas, beans, onions, summer spinach, etc., followed with turnips for winter use, cabbage for spring use, and winter spinach. No. 4, brassicas, including broccoli, Brussels' sprouts, kale, and others of the brassica family. In the following year the original No. 2 should be cropped as No. 3 and No. 3 as No. 4. In the third season a corresponding change would be made constituting the three-course system. Naturally, when turning up new or vacant ground, the cultivator must use discretion. As an example, ground cleared of early or new potatoes would be very suitable for planting strawberries. Another point worthy of attention is that peas sown on the lines where celery was lifted do remarkably well without. any ; other- preparation. Experience teaches us that peas do not like being ’ sown immediately after a heavy dressing of manure. THE FRUIT GARDEN The fruit trees generally cultivated are deciduous, and are best planted as soon as the leaves have fallen. Should any tree arrive with many of the leaves still adhering to it strip them off at once, as if left on and the weather continued mild the leaves would extract moisture from the wood and leave it in a shrivelled condition, as the roots would not be in a condition to maintain a flow of sap necessary to keep the wood healthy and well. If the ground has been turned up as previously advised the trees may be planted light away after the fall of the leaf. It sometimes happens trees make a

late growth after the first leaves are quite fully grown. These young late shoots, retaining all their leaves, should be cut out altogether. In all probability this would have to be done later on account of the undeveloped state of this young wood, so it is much better to remove it right away. The distance apart to plant depends upon the nature under which they arc grown. For instance, whore only a few trees arc grown and under what may be termed the close pruning system 10ft to 12ft apart is quite all right. Then 14ft, 16ft, or even 18ft or 20ft may bo allowed for large areas where the ground cultivation is by the hoc. Labour is frequently used in digging or preparing the holes to receive the trees. Let the holes be as wide at the bottom as at the top, and rather deeper at the sides than in the centre—that is, like a saucer upside down. The roots have then a slight downward tendency, making the trees very much more secure or steady against heavy winds. Trim the roots slightly and cut out all bruised parts. The ' depth to plant must depend upon the nature of the ground. With a heavy soil 4in or sin covering above the roots is sufficient. Whore the ground is of a light sandy or,gravelly 'nature fiin to 9in will be about right. The main object in tree planting is to encourage as much hair root formation as possible, for without hair roots satisfactory fruiting is impossible. Hair root formation is almost immediately under the surface, so never plant too deeply. The trees may make strong growth, but it will bo at the expense of fruit.

ANSWERS “ J.B.”—The name of apples forwarded is Winter Majestim. It is strictly a cooking variety and late keeping. “M.H.”— You say you have a maidenhair fern Oft high. 1 am afraid you are confusing your plant with asparagus Plumosus or asparagus P. Nainus. I have never heard of a maidenhair fern (adiantum) of any variety growing Gft high. J presume the little box of asparagus Nainus came from you as you ask about scale on the plant. Scaly blight is liable to attack all asparagus P. Nainus and other varieties of it.

“ Viola.”—Cut off all the long old growth from your Queen Mary Viola and depend upon the young growth coming from the base of the plant. It will soon come if it is not already there. This young growth is best for cuttings and divisions, or may be left for next season’s flowering. “ Puzzled.”—l am not at all surprised that you did not get any grass seed to come away on the ground similar to the soil forwarded, for_ it must have come from a bog. You have little or no hope of growing either lawn grass or any other crop without properly draining the ground. The soil is of a rich nature, but quite sour and waterlogged. Get it well drained, dug up roughly," and heavily limed, and 1 feel sure the results will justify the extra trouble or expense. It is no use trying blood and bone or other manure under the present conditions.

“ Oamaru.”—(l) You ask what is about the average time to strike cuttings of chrysanthemums. That all depends upon what they are to be grown for—whether for two or three large blooms on the first or second crown bud or if for largo specimen plants in pots with perhaps 100 or more blooms upon them, for the latter purpose yon may start right away or as soon as you can secure the suitable cuttings. For large blooms August will answer, as they are both grown under different methods. (2) A temperature of 50deg bottom heat is quite enough for chrysanthemums. (3) The growth coining up out of the ground will not interfere with the present season’s blooming. Those are the proper shoots to use for cuttings. After flowering cut the tops back to 18in or so from the ground. The season has been unsatisfactory for chrysanthemus grown outside. “F.G.”—The loaf forwarded is that of the old half hardy coleus family, generally grown as window or room plants. It will probably Ipse lots of its leaves during winter, but will come away and make new growth in spring or early summer. That is the time to strike the cuttings. Do not repot it before spring nor give too 'much water during the winter months.