A WONDER CITY

Evening Star, Issue 21711, 4 May 1934, Page 11

A WONDER CITY

JEWISH DREAM REALISED . The majority of people, know little, if anything, of Tel-a-viv. Yet it is a centre of absorbing interest and conflicting passions in the Near East, and before long it is likely to loom large in the eyes of the world (writes the Marquise do Verdiercs). Tel-a-viv, the City of the Jews, is on the coast of Palestine, but a few minutes by bus from Jaffra, and about forty miles from Jerusalem. I have heard it described as “ a miniature Paris”; ‘the most wonderful city on earth”; ” an upstart town, too big for its boots”; “the most dangerous spot in present-day politics”; “the expression of a great ideal”; “a stunt exploited for financial purposes.” I found it the most amazing placo I have ever seen —and I have seen many But it is not like a miniature Paris. It is not like anything under the sun but Tel-a-viv. A city of youth,- triumphant, eager youth, fulfilling the life-long dream of ago. Twelve years ago there were sandhills and lonely seashore. Now there are wide streets, handsome shops, fine houses, schools, and hotels, a hopital, a splendid synagogue, and a beautiful up-to-date theatre, where artists of international repute give plays in Hebrew. It is the Children of Zion who have created all this in a dozen years. What other race could have accomplished as much? It is a strange experience to walk their busy streets, wheio East and West meet and mingle Motor cars, buses’ garries—these arc horse-drawn carriages, mostly with Arab drivers—go side by side with a tram of camels, their bells chiming, a couple of pack mules, or a man, looking like an illustration from the Bible, riding upon an ass—" the other animal ” as it is polite to call it out there! In the hot golden sunshine, on a summer afternoon pass women of the East, veiled and inscrutable; Arabs, dignified in their picturesque draperies; Arabs not so dignified in European clothes; British officials; Palestinian police; Eastern children vivid as humming birds. Bedouins hasten along with their free, proud stride, the women a-g!itter with coins and jewellery; beggars are seen in lovely rags; tourists of all nations, a motley of colour, a medley of types. MENACE OP RACE HATRED. The languages spoken are Hebrew and Arabic. Signs over Shops and offices are, as a rule, printed in both, but yon bear many longues when you go shopping in Tel-a-viv. You see many incidents, too, trifles which set you wondering, and if you arc at all observant you grow aware of hidden conflict and the menace of deep hatred. There are two sources of hate and conflict in and around this spot. The first is between the Jews themselves, and is 11(6 outcome ol religious differences. The trouble between the Zionists, Trumplcdors, Re-

visionist Zionists, and revolutionary parties is extremely intricate. Roughly speaking, the Zionists adhere rigidly to their ancient teaching, whereas the Revisionists desire certain modifications which they hold to be right. The feeling between the various sections is very bitter. A few months back, on a starlit summer night, Arlosorow, leader of the Zionist party, was murdered while walking out tho sea shore with his wife, but a stone’s throw from lighted cafes and promenade. This crime was apparently committed for a religious motive. The second source of conflict and unrest is from the Arabs. They dislike the Jews and their prosperous, rapidly-growing city. When the Arabs owned tho land it was uncultivated and yielded no profit. The Jews came and paid high prices for ground. They started irrigation and ■ planted oranges. Now there are miles of orange gardens round Jaffa watered by pumps, each driven by its noisy little engine. The hideous sound, which never seems to cease, is a nightmare of the dry season. ARABS’ ADVANTAGES. The Arabs sold willingly and have reaped advantages from the Jewish settlers; but they are not pleased that such profit is being made from what was once theirs. They resent the exploitation of their country, and the utilisation of their labour to enrich others. They fear to be driven from their own land by powerful invasion; they sense the might of brains and money. Thus their dark eyes watch Tel-a-viv and the people who dwell there with dislike and distrust, and they mutter among themselves. When the East hates and whispers trouble is born. Recently I talked with a Jew of strong personality —a .Palestinian 1 should call him, for he is nationalised. He owns a fashionable cafe. “ I was here/' he said, pointing to a vista of handsome buildings, “ when all this was sand. I was hero when they started to build our city,” he added. “ I saw it wrecked and built again. “ I shall see it wrecked in the future, perhaps once, perhaps twice, perhaps a third time, who knows? May bo one stone will not bo found upon another. Yet we shall build anew. So long as any of our race endure so long, lives Tel-a-viv. “ From blood and ashes it shall rise again—-to fulfil tho dream—to prove our worth. This is our Holy Band. We have come home; and wo have come to stay.