SEASONABLE NOTES

Evening Star, Issue 21518, 16 September 1933, Page 18

SEASONABLE NOTES

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Vegetation is now in full activity. Weeds are making rapid progress, and and every advantage should be taken of fine days to clear the ground of them. The weather we have been experiencing of late has lent itself very favourably for this work. Ply the hoe and rake freely among growing crops. This will not only destroy weeds, but stimulate the growth of plant life as well. Early sown vegetables will be pushing through the ground now, and as soon as they are sufficiently strong to handle proceed with the thinning out. This work should not be delayed a day longer than is necessary. Ground that has been deeply trenched and well manured will be in good condition for making sowings of asparagus. Where this has been well done there will be nonnecessity to make special beds for asparagus. Sow thinly in drills 12in to 15in apart, and about lin deep, and when the crowns are well through the ground thin the plants out to 12in apart, and keep the ground well stirred to keep down weeds. Celery may be sown in the open now, giving a rich and well sheltered bed. Sow peas for succession as soon as the previous sowing is well through the ground, and French and runner beans, the French beans in drills about 18in apart, but runners are best sown thinly in double drills 4ft apart, to allow long* poles or stakes to be driven in on either side and tied at the top. This makes them firm and steady fpr the beans to climb, which they will soon do, and give great crops. Plant rhubarb on rich, well-prepared ground in rows about 3ft each way. Plant artichokes, both Jerusalem and globe. Plant cabbage and cauliflowers. Sow beetroot, and make another sowing of several sorts of broccoli. This will, give a good range of cutting. Sow carrots, turnips, onions, lettuce, radish, and parsips where these are not already in. LAWKS FROM SEED No garden is complete without a lawn, let it be ever so small. There are few departments which give more pleasure than a well-kept. lawn. In my young days a great deal of time and labour were given in laying lawns with cut turf. If really good turf can be secured and expense not to be considered all well and good. No doubt, with experienced hands to do the work, this method makes a quick and beautiful lawn, but this I do not propose to touch upon. Only that of sowing a lawn from seed. It is not necessary to dig the ground deeply. Six to nine inches will answer well, provided the drainage is good and the soil rich and free, for it must bo understood that lawn grasses are plants, and it requires rich and good ground to keep a lawn in good heart. Assuming, then, that the ground has been dug and manured in the autumn, as previously advised, it will be in fine condition now for laying down. It will crumble and break down with the necessary raking, rolling, and treading. Firstly, rake off all sticks, stones, and other rubbish, then run a good weighty roller over it to break down all lumps, and then proceed with the levelling and grading. It need not necessarily be a dead level, unless it is for a bowling green, tennis court, or croquet lawn. In such cases it is best to employ an expert. When all raking and levelling are completed proceed with the treading by placing the feet together and work backwards and forwards over the whole surface. Your boots will find any soft spot which a roller would pass over no matter how heavy, as two bait! parts would prevent the roller from reaching the soft spot between, hence

the necessity for treading. After this rake and refake and roll until you have the surface as firm and smooth as a billiard table. If manure has not been previously dug in and it is desirable to apply artificial manure, this should be applied before surface preparation, so that it be well worked in during the process of preparation. For ordinary loamy soil the following makes a good dressing: 2cwt superphosphate, lewt guano, and 3cwt bone meal mixed for one acre of lawn. For small plots use in proportions. Farmyard manure previously dug in is the best for poor sandy or gravelly ground, as it retains humus or moisture. We will suppose the surface preparations is completed and all is ready for the seed. The amount required is 80 to 1001 b per acre, or about 101 b per chain of ground. For the beginner it is a good practice to divide the seed into two parts, and sow one part all over the surface the one way, then sow the other half the other way all over. By this you are likely to have the seed sown and come up more evenly. When all is sown give the surface a good raking, not too deep, or some of the fine grasses may not be able to push through the surface, yet sufficiently deep to cover the seed. Then to put the finishing touch upon it give the surface a good rolling, and care must be taken not to work, prepare the surface, or roll when the ground is damp or sticky. Should a prolonged drought appear after sowing down, give a good watering, but avoid sprinkles. When the grass is well through the ground give it another good rolling. This will bed the soil about the roots and leave a nice finish for the machine. THE FLOWER GARDEN Plants sown from seed last month should be ready for pricking into boxes. Others of the hardy class—annuals, biennials, and perennials—should be sown in the open border, giving them rich and well-prepared soil. In sowing small flower seeds care should be taken not to cover the seed too deep. _ For some a mere sprinkling is sufficient. The finer the seed the less covering of soil. Half-hardy annuals should be sown a little later. Those beds that were dug up early and have had time to sweeten should answer well. Both for sowing seed and the planting out from boxes avoid boisterous or windy drying days. Better defer such work and take advantage of fine days after rains. Plants raised under glass should bo hardened off before planting them out by placing the boxes of plants outside in a well-sheltered situation. Dahlias taken up and stored during the winter months should be ready for dividing and replanting. Just as the young or now growth is visible is the proper time to split them up., They may. be divided into as many plants as there are shoots. Each piece of root should have at least one shoot attached. Dahlias require a rich and well-man-ured piece of ground. A Sin or 4in covering above the crown of the plant will be about'right for depth to plant. Continue to take up, separate or divide chrysanthemums, and attend carefully to those propagated under glass. , Plant out hardy bedding plants, such as cinerarias, antirrhinums, verbenas, stocks of the Brompton and East Lothian class, and Ten Weeks variety a little later. Plant sweet peas that have been raised under glass, and make another sowing for late flowering. Keep a watchful eye upon tender plants in case of late spring frosts. Mow and roll lawns and ply the hoe. Rake freely on flower beds and borders to keep down weeds. ANSWERS “ T.A. ’ —The twig of a plant left at my place is that of a plumbago (P. capinses), a very showy climbing greenhouse plant rarely suitable for growing outside here in Dunedin. Further north it does quite well. If you plant it outside give it a rich, warm, sunny situation and room to climb. H.C.